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For info, archives & UNSUBSCRIBE, see <http://stagecraft.theprices.net/>
---------------------------------------------------

Stagecraft Digest, Issue #451

 1. economic soapbox?
    by "RICHARD FINKELSTEIN" <rfinkels [at] msn.com>
 2. Re: Merchant accounts?
    by Dale Farmer <dale [at] cybercom.net>
 3. Re: Merchant accounts?
    by Greg Bierly <gbierly [at] dejazzd.com>
 4. Re: McFeelys Screws
    by "Brian Busch" <bpbusch [at] techie.com>
 5. Re: Merchant accounts?
    by Mark O'Brien <marko [at] email.arizona.edu>
 6. Re: McFeelys Screws
    by "Chris Kennedy" <dckennedy [at] ucsd.edu>
 7. Re: still more dichroic filters
    by "John Gibilisco" <johngib [at] cox.net>
 8. Re: Merchant accounts?
    by Jerry Durand <jdurand [at] interstellar.com>
 9. Re: Merchant accounts?
    by "Bill Nelson" <billn [at] peak.org>
10. Re: Merchant accounts?
    by Jerry Durand <jdurand [at] interstellar.com>
11. Re: Merchant accounts?
    by "Bill Nelson" <billn [at] peak.org>
12. Loan calculator Spreadsheet - OT
    by Delbert Hall <delbert.hall [at] gmail.com>
13. Re: Merchant accounts?
    by Charlie Richmond <charlier [at] RichmondSoundDesign.com>
14. Re: looking for a special paint roller cleaner
    by Scott Parker <scparker [at] gmail.com>
15. Re: still more dichroic filters
    by "Bill Nelson" <billn [at] peak.org>
16. Re: McFeelys Screws
    by "Brian Busch" <bpbusch [at] techie.com>
17. Re: Merchant accounts?
    by "Bill Nelson" <billn [at] peak.org>
18. Re: McFeelys Screws
    by FrankWood95 [at] aol.com
19. Re: Merchant accounts?
    by Charlie Richmond <charlier [at] RichmondSoundDesign.com>
20. Re: Merchant accounts?
    by Jerry Durand <jdurand [at] interstellar.com>
21. Re: Merchant accounts?
    by Scott Parker <scparker [at] gmail.com>
22. Re: McFeelys Screws
    by "Bill Nelson" <billn [at] peak.org>
23. Re: Merchant accounts?
    by "Bill Nelson" <billn [at] peak.org>
24. melting light bulbs
    by "Cyr, Dale" <Dale.Cyr [at] getronics.com>
25. Re: melting light bulbs
    by "Donald Robert Fox" <dsgnrlight [at] hotmail.com>
26. Fwd: Fire chief urges legal fireworks
    by Jerry Durand <jdurand [at] interstellar.com>
27. Re: melting light bulbs
    by "Cyr, Dale" <Dale.Cyr [at] getronics.com>
28. Re: melting light bulbs
    by "Bill Nelson" <billn [at] peak.org>
29. Re: Fwd: Fire chief urges legal fireworks
    by IAEG [at] aol.com
30. Re: Fwd: Fire chief urges legal fireworks
    by Jerry Durand <jdurand [at] interstellar.com>
31. Re: Fwd: Fire chief urges legal fireworks
    by Jerry Durand <jdurand [at] interstellar.com>
32. Re: melting light bulbs
    by "Cyr, Dale" <Dale.Cyr [at] getronics.com>
33. Re: melting light bulbs
    by "Bill Nelson" <billn [at] peak.org>
34. Re: Merchant accounts?
    by Greg Bierly <gbierly [at] dejazzd.com>
35. Re: Where does the responsibility lie?
    by CB <psyd [at] cox.net>
36. Re: OT-Fireworks
    by CB <psyd [at] cox.net>
37. Re: Fire chief urges legal fireworks
    by "Dr. Randall W.A. Davidson" <doomster [at] worldnet.att.net>
38. Re: OT-Fireworks
    by "Tony Deeming" <deeming.tony [at] btinternet.com>
39. Re: McFeelys Screws
    by FrankWood95 [at] aol.com
40. Re: melting light bulbs
    by "Donald Robert Fox" <dsgnrlight [at] hotmail.com>
41. Re: melting light bulbs
    by FrankWood95 [at] aol.com
42. Re: melting light bulbs
    by FrankWood95 [at] aol.com
43. Re: economic soapbox? and endless debates
    by "Alf Sauve" <alf.sauve [at] mindspring.com>
44. Re: melting light bulbs
    by "Chad Croteau" <cpcroteau [at] kelcom.igs.net>
45. Re: Where does the responsibility lie?
    by "Donald Robert Fox" <dsgnrlight [at] hotmail.com>
46. Re: looking for a special paint roller cleaner
    by "Alf Sauve" <alf.sauve [at] mindspring.com>
47. Re: Fire chief urges legal fireworks
    by MissWisc [at] aol.com
48. Re: Fire chief urges legal fireworks
    by Stephen Litterst <slitterst [at] ithaca.edu>
49. Re: Fire chief urges legal fireworks
    by Jerry Durand <jdurand [at] interstellar.com>
50. Re: melting light bulbs
    by "Alf Sauve" <alf.sauve [at] mindspring.com>
51. Re: McFeelys Screws
    by Stuart Wheaton <sdwheaton [at] fuse.net>
52. Ordering Lumber 
    by "Mike Rock" <rockm [at] new.rr.com>
53. Re: OT-Fireworks
    by "Bill Nelson" <billn [at] peak.org>
54. Re: Merchant accounts?
    by "Bill Nelson" <billn [at] peak.org>
55. URGENT: Build space fell through...anyone got ideas?
    by Michael Powers <mptecdir [at] gmail.com>
56. Re: Where does the responsibility lie?
    by Stuart Wheaton <sdwheaton [at] fuse.net>
57. Re: Merchant accounts?
    by "James, Brian" <bej [at] vt.edu>
58. Re: Ordering Lumber
    by "Donald Robert Fox" <dsgnrlight [at] hotmail.com>
59. Re: Fire chief urges legal fireworks
    by "Tony Deeming" <deeming.tony [at] btinternet.com>
60. Re: Fire chief urges legal fireworks
    by "Tony Deeming" <deeming.tony [at] btinternet.com>

*** Please update the subject line of your reply to use the subject
*** line of the message you are replying to! Please only reply to
*** one message subject in each reply.

----------------------------------------------------------------------

Message-ID: <BAY106-F197A72F9A7DD37768E2275C7D80 [at] phx.gbl>
From: "RICHARD FINKELSTEIN" <rfinkels [at] msn.com>
Subject: economic soapbox?
Date: Thu, 07 Jul 2005 08:54:55 -0400

Alas I just asked a simple question, with no intent in starting one of those 
endless parse every word debates that never end!  But since one of these 
endless threads have once again been started, I might as well answer to the 
challenge. This one I really can't resist. <G>


Quoting Alf . . . .

 >To get on my economic soap box again,

 >At my place there are only so many person-hours available
 >each week.  All tasks must be accomplished on schedule.  No added labor 
(or
 >overtime) may be purchased.  Anything that eats up time will cause us to
 >miss schedule.

So...  (imagine the following retort given in the voice of John Stewart)

"Anything that eats up time"  ... "ANYTHING" ???? 
.....like.......perhaps......pointless chats on the internet when there are 
deadlines to meet?



------------------------------

Message-ID: <42CD2941.93D27993 [at] cybercom.net>
Date: Thu, 07 Jul 2005 09:08:17 -0400
From: Dale Farmer <dale [at] cybercom.net>
Organization: The  fuzz in the back of the fridge. 
Subject: Re: Merchant accounts?
References: <list-23535146 [at] prxy.net> <list-23536726 [at] prxy.net>
	    <list-23537426 [at] prxy.net> <list-23539999 [at] prxy.net>
	    <list-23543682 [at] prxy.net> <list-23548010 [at] prxy.net>



Bill Nelson wrote:

> For info, archives & UNSUBSCRIBE, see <http://stagecraft.theprices.net/>
> ---------------------------------------------------
>
> > At the University, we use a purchasing card system to buy most
> > everything up to $1000.00  We have been warned by the p-card people
> > that using Pay-pal, or any other 3rd party systems will result in a
> > immediate thumping by the bookkeeper, purchasing agent, and the
> > attorney general.   Just a thought for anyone wanting to deal with a
> > University or a large corporation.
>
> Are you sure that just isn't the purchasing card people attempting to
> protect their turf? Nor should it be the purchasing agent's business how
> you fund your purchases.
>
> Before anyone went to Paypal, I WOULD check with the accountant (not the
> bookkeeper) and possibly your state attorney general. But Paypal is legal
> in all 50 states, as well as a number of foreign countries.
>
> But Paypal is NOT a credit or deferred payment system. You need to have a
> credit card, bank account or cash deposit with Paypal to make purchases.
> There is no Paypal charge to the customer - the merchant pays all fees.
> The disadvantages are that not all credit cards are accepted and not all
> merchants accept Paypal.
>
> Bill

    Also, while I haven't investigated it myself, I've heard that the paypal
fees on the person trying to actually turn it into cash, rather than spend it

on other paypal-usng vendors.  All sorts of extra fees and so on to nibble
away at one's hard-earned.

    --Dale



------------------------------

In-Reply-To: <list-23548010 [at] prxy.net>
References: <list-23535146 [at] prxy.net> <list-23536726 [at] prxy.net> <list-23537426 [at] prxy.net> <list-23539999 [at] prxy.net> <list-23543682 [at] prxy.net> <list-23548010 [at] prxy.net>
Message-Id: <2c2c2ad800ee7f2e5b52d3c5efd5848e [at] dejazzd.com>
From: Greg Bierly <gbierly [at] dejazzd.com>
Subject: Re: Merchant accounts?
Date: Thu, 7 Jul 2005 09:37:49 -0400

> Are you sure that just isn't the purchasing card people attempting to
> protect their turf? Nor should it be the purchasing agent's business 
> how
> you fund your purchases.

As you figured out for the institutional setting it is very easy for 
fraud.  I have been tempted to try my purchase card on PayPal but with 
other districts in the area getting nailed for blatant credit card 
abuse (and getting HUGE press) I think I'll refrain.  I have enough 
gray area purchases that I don't need to rock the boat anymore.


Greg Bierly
Technical Director
Hempfield HS


------------------------------

From: "Brian Busch" <bpbusch [at] techie.com>
Date: Thu, 07 Jul 2005 08:04:52 -0600
Subject: Re: McFeelys Screws
Message-Id: <20050707140452.3B4A52000E [at] ws1-1a.us4.outblaze.com>

I know we've talked before about square drive screws, but I just had to sha=
re. The #8 unplated, square (Robertson) drive screws from McFeely's are the=
 only general purpose screws allowed in the theatre. Of course there are so=
me other drive variations for special applications? The left over Philips s=
crews are hidden away in storage until they find a new home in someone else=
's theatre/shop/basement or rust into a solid mass (I'm secretly hoping for=
 the latter). They key to making the switch to square drive "so amazing tha=
t you could not believe you waited this long" is using only the drive tips =
from McFeely's as well. Their 2-part construction (a hardened tip swaged in=
to a mild steel body) lasts a really long time and the tips are color-coded=
 so you know what size tip you need. The drive bits that can be picked up a=
t any big box hardware store are cast and they do not quite fit the square =
opening well enough.=C2=A0=20

Back to the question: the unplated screws are the most inexpensive an tend =
to be fairly dark in color. We end up filling screw holes and painting over=
 them anyway so the screws might as well be orange. The black oxide version=
 are truly black and are an excellent choice for last minute work in dark s=
cenery. Shipping from the company is amazingly cheap too.

(inadvertent advertisement off)

Brian Busch
Technical Director
Coterie Theatre

------------------------------

In-Reply-To: <list-23552926 [at] prxy.net>
References: <list-23535146 [at] prxy.net> <list-23536726 [at] prxy.net> <list-23537426 [at] prxy.net> <list-23539999 [at] prxy.net> <list-23543682 [at] prxy.net> <list-23548010 [at] prxy.net> <list-23552926 [at] prxy.net>
Message-Id: <19e044ee60d9820985e52aa92f64adbf [at] email.arizona.edu>
Cc: marko [at] email.arizona.edu (Mark O'Brien)
From: Mark O'Brien <marko [at] email.arizona.edu>
Subject: Re: Merchant accounts?
Date: Thu, 7 Jul 2005 07:28:05 -0700

As for grey area purchases, I cannot use the p-card to buy office 
supplies or furniture, as there are contracted vendors who deal with 
that kind of stuff.  I do have to 'splain sometimes when I buy chairs, 
couches etc.  The 800.00 IKEA bill raised a few eyebrows.  (generic 
furniture for a scenes program)


Mark O'Brien
Opera Technical Director
University of Arizona, School of Music
Tucson, AZ
520/621-7025
520/591-1803 Mobile


On Jul 7, 2005, at 6:37 AM, Greg Bierly wrote:

> For info, archives & UNSUBSCRIBE, see 
> <http://stagecraft.theprices.net/>
> ---------------------------------------------------
>
>> Are you sure that just isn't the purchasing card people attempting to
>> protect their turf? Nor should it be the purchasing agent's business 
>> how
>> you fund your purchases.
>
> As you figured out for the institutional setting it is very easy for 
> fraud.  I have been tempted to try my purchase card on PayPal but with 
> other districts in the area getting nailed for blatant credit card 
> abuse (and getting HUGE press) I think I'll refrain.  I have enough 
> gray area purchases that I don't need to rock the boat anymore.
>
>
> Greg Bierly
> Technical Director
> Hempfield HS
>


------------------------------

Message-Id: <200507071458.j67EwNTg007070 [at] smtp.ucsd.edu>
From: "Chris Kennedy" <dckennedy [at] ucsd.edu>
Subject: RE: McFeelys Screws
Date: Thu, 7 Jul 2005 08:00:40 -0700
In-Reply-To: <list-23553395 [at] prxy.net>

Dearest Brian,
	When attaching wood to steel we have found that self-drilling screws
require a "special drive variation" of a Phillips head.  We have tried =
the
trim head square drive tek screws and found them to be awful.  How does =
one
in your position reconcile the differences between the two?  *grin*

Chris Kennedy
Associate Technical Director
La Jolla Playhouse

-----Original Message-----
From: Stagecraft [mailto:stagecraft [at] theatrical.net] On Behalf Of Brian =
Busch
Sent: Thursday, July 07, 2005 7:05 AM
To: Stagecraft
Subject: Re: McFeelys Screws

For info, archives & UNSUBSCRIBE, see <http://stagecraft.theprices.net/>
---------------------------------------------------

I know we've talked before about square drive screws, but I just had to
share. The #8 unplated, square (Robertson) drive screws from McFeely's =
are
the only general purpose screws allowed in the theatre. Of course there =
are
some other drive variations for special applications? The left over =
Philips
screws are hidden away in storage until they find a new home in someone
else's theatre/shop/basement or rust into a solid mass (I'm secretly =
hoping
for the latter). They key to making the switch to square drive "so =
amazing
that you could not believe you waited this long" is using only the drive
tips from McFeely's as well. Their 2-part construction (a hardened tip
swaged into a mild steel body) lasts a really long time and the tips are
color-coded so you know what size tip you need. The drive bits that can =
be
picked up at any big box hardware store are cast and they do not quite =
fit
the square opening well enough.=C2=A0=20

Back to the question: the unplated screws are the most inexpensive an =
tend
to be fairly dark in color. We end up filling screw holes and painting =
over
them anyway so the screws might as well be orange. The black oxide =
version
are truly black and are an excellent choice for last minute work in dark
scenery. Shipping from the company is amazingly cheap too.

(inadvertent advertisement off)

Brian Busch
Technical Director
Coterie Theatre


------------------------------

Message-ID: <003101c58305$be5f02e0$0200a8c0 [at] om.cox.net>
From: "John Gibilisco" <johngib [at] cox.net>
References: <list-23529338 [at] prxy.net> <list-23533241 [at] prxy.net>    <list-23544451 [at] prxy.net> <list-23549449 [at] prxy.net>
Subject: Re: still more dichroic filters
Date: Thu, 7 Jul 2005 10:08:33 -0500


Bill Nelson wrote:
>
> Amber?

Amber is their term. It does produce a nice yellow.

Why would you need "Extreme Blue"? The extreme magenta should give
> you the deeper blues and reds

Bill I have never studied color theory the way it should be studied by a
lighting professional. I just spin the wheels and make pretty colors! ;^)
These units have only been in the building for a week so my experimentation
time has been limited. I hope to have more time for experimentation in a few
weeks.

 What I did discover while playing was the reds were really nice when mixing
Magenta and Amber to different degrees. Throwing the "extreme magenta" wheel
in to the mix produced the best looking (saturated) reds I have ever seen
while using a conventional fixture. (S4 750 watt) The problem I had was
finding a CYM combination that made a deep blue that was equally as
impressive. I could not find that combination. This lead me to believe that
if there was a secondary wheel like an "extreme blue" for making deep blues
it would be a good thing. I think VL's has an extra blue wheel for this
reason? Can anyone confirm that?

These changers also have the option of being built with a neutral density
filter in place of the extreme magenta wheel for dimming the S4 HID
fixtures. Adding this filter with all colors at full will produce a
blackout.

> What is the price of the beasts?

They are pricey beasts at $2400.00 list. (Power Supplies are on board no
extra box needed) I guess I would need to put a pencil to what I've spent on
the Color Ram Equipment (Scrollers and Power Supplies) along with 31 color
gel strings over the years to know if they are worth their cost. From what
I've seen so far they look like they are.  The lenses assemblies, motors,
glass and housing are all top quality. I was told the DMX components were
designed by Fleenor. Time will also be the true judge.

John Gibilisco
Omaha Playhouse



------------------------------

Message-Id: <6.2.1.2.0.20050707081611.029ebae0 [at] 192.168.0.13>
Date: Thu, 07 Jul 2005 08:28:05 -0700
From: Jerry Durand <jdurand [at] interstellar.com>
Subject: Re: Merchant accounts?
In-Reply-To: <list-23544631 [at] prxy.net>
References: <list-23535146 [at] prxy.net>
 <list-23536726 [at] prxy.net>
 <list-23537426 [at] prxy.net>
 <list-23539999 [at] prxy.net>
 <list-23543682 [at] prxy.net>
 <list-23544189 [at] prxy.net>
 <list-23544631 [at] prxy.net>

At 09:33 PM 7/6/2005, you wrote:
>That is true on your end, however, when I bought something from you, I had 
>to use my personal Visa,   If it were for something more expensive, I may 
>well have just shopped elsewhere, rather than gong through the 
>reimbursement process on my end.

I didn't mean to say it isn't a problem for people with those special 
American Express accounts.

I just don't follow the Amex logic that if you have that special account 
and buy from a PayPal vendor they can't tell if your company authorized it, 
but if you buy from a vendor who pays the monthly fees they know your 
company authorized it.  If you have a regular Corporate Card or a personal 
card, then PayPal is just fine.

In about 20 years of accepting Amex (first as a regular merchant, then as a 
PayPal merchant), Amex has NEVER contacted us to see if we had a purchase 
order, or for any other information about a sale prior to authorizing the 
charge.

Also, Amex claims they no longer block PayPal.  I should get that in 
writing from them.



----------
Jerry Durand
Durand Interstellar, Inc.
219 Oak Wood Way
Los Gatos, California 95032-2523 USA
tel:  +1 408 356-3886, USA toll free:  1 866 356-3886
web:  www.interstellar.com




------------------------------

Message-ID: <3083.64.28.50.179.1120751891.squirrel [at] webmail.peak.org>
In-Reply-To: <list-23552266 [at] prxy.net>
References: <list-23535146 [at] prxy.net> <list-23536726 [at] prxy.net>    
    <list-23537426 [at] prxy.net> <list-23539999 [at] prxy.net>    
    <list-23543682 [at] prxy.net> <list-23548010 [at] prxy.net>
    <list-23552266 [at] prxy.net>
Date: Thu, 7 Jul 2005 08:58:11 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: Re: Merchant accounts?
From: "Bill Nelson" <billn [at] peak.org>

>     Also, while I haven't investigated it myself, I've heard that the
> paypal
> fees on the person trying to actually turn it into cash, rather than spend
> it on other paypal-usng vendors.  All sorts of extra fees and so on to
> nibble away at one's hard-earned.

Not true.

Paypal charges $0.39 plus $2.9% any time a business/enhanced account
receives funds. There is a 1% surcharge for foreign sourced payments. This
is comparable to the cost of a small business credit card account.

When you want to remove the funds from the account, you can do so by
direct transfer to a checking account for free. It takes 3-4 business days
for the transfer to complete. You can have a check mailed for $1.50 -
which takes 1-2 weeks to get to you. It costs $1.00 to get cash out of an
ATM.

There is never any charge for sending money to others, even private
accounts that cannot accept credit/debit card sourced payments and receive
the funds without charge.

Bill

Bill


------------------------------

Message-Id: <6.2.1.2.0.20050707085941.029eb538 [at] 192.168.0.13>
Date: Thu, 07 Jul 2005 09:02:33 -0700
From: Jerry Durand <jdurand [at] interstellar.com>
Subject: Re: Merchant accounts?

I just sent a question in to Amex about this.  A while back on the phone 
they said they no longer block third-party transactions, but I didn't get 
that in writing.  I've now asked for an official policy statement in writing.

Oh, and you can't ask a direct question about a merchant account on their 
web page unless you have a current merchant account number.  You can't even 
say "I'm interested, tell me more".

----------
Jerry Durand
Durand Interstellar, Inc.
219 Oak Wood Way
Los Gatos, California 95032-2523 USA
tel:  +1 408 356-3886, USA toll free:  1 866 356-3886
web:  www.interstellar.com




------------------------------

Message-ID: <3085.64.28.50.179.1120752271.squirrel [at] webmail.peak.org>
In-Reply-To: <list-23552926 [at] prxy.net>
References: <list-23535146 [at] prxy.net> <list-23536726 [at] prxy.net>
    <list-23537426 [at] prxy.net> <list-23539999 [at] prxy.net>
    <list-23543682 [at] prxy.net> <list-23548010 [at] prxy.net>
    <list-23552926 [at] prxy.net>
Date: Thu, 7 Jul 2005 09:04:31 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: Re: Merchant accounts?
From: "Bill Nelson" <billn [at] peak.org>

> As you figured out for the institutional setting it is very easy for
> fraud.  I have been tempted to try my purchase card on PayPal but with
> other districts in the area getting nailed for blatant credit card
> abuse (and getting HUGE press) I think I'll refrain.  I have enough
> gray area purchases that I don't need to rock the boat anymore.

Any purchasing system can be abused, regardless of how payments are funded.

One advantage of Paypal over credit cards is that there are on-line
detailed records of the account that received the funds and details of
what was purchased. It is also possible to print of statements of
activity.

A disadvantage is that it is easier for the buyer to complain that an item
was not received or significantly not as purchased and thus get their
money back. If the institution was the buyer, this disadvantage would not
apply.

Bill


------------------------------

Message-ID: <b7318c4805070709097d6bbe4c [at] mail.gmail.com>
Date: Thu, 7 Jul 2005 12:09:07 -0400
From: Delbert Hall <delbert.hall [at] gmail.com>
Reply-To: Delbert Hall <delbert.hall [at] gmail.com>
Subject: Loan calculator Spreadsheet - OT

Since I know that there are experts on this list for just about
everything, I thought I would ask for a little help on a
non-stagecraft project on which I have been working.  I have written a
MS Excel spreadsheet for calculation and tracking loans.  This
spreadsheet creates a customized amortization table from the
particulars of your loan, but it has soon "added features" that make
it unique.  My plan is to submit the finished spreadsheet to
Download.com as a "free" download for anyone interested in it.  Note:
the spreadsheet will be "locked" so people can't tweek my formulas,
but people will be able to purchase an "unlocked" version for a small
fee.  Before I submit it, I am wanting a couple of people to try it
out and send me their comments (things you really like, and things I
might do to improve it).  Please email me privately if you are
interested in getting a copy and sending me your comments.  Note: this
is the first version, so don't expect too much. I thought there may be
a couple Excel nuts on the list who might be willing to test it out
for me.  Thanks.

-Delbert
--=20
Delbert Hall
Phone: 423-773-4255

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 7 Jul 2005 17:12:37 +0100 (BST)
From: Charlie Richmond <charlier [at] RichmondSoundDesign.com>
Subject: Re: Merchant accounts?
In-Reply-To: <list-23555286 [at] prxy.net>
Message-ID: <Pine.LNX.4.60.0507071711070.27316 [at] viscount.richmondsounddesign.com>
References: <list-23535146 [at] prxy.net> <list-23536726 [at] prxy.net>       
 <list-23537426 [at] prxy.net> <list-23539999 [at] prxy.net>        <list-23543682 [at] prxy.net>
 <list-23548010 [at] prxy.net>    <list-23552266 [at] prxy.net> <list-23555286 [at] prxy.net>

On Thu, 7 Jul 2005, Bill Nelson wrote:

> Paypal charges $0.39 plus $2.9% any time a business/enhanced account
> receives funds. There is a 1% surcharge for foreign sourced payments. This
> is comparable to the cost of a small business credit card account.
>
> When you want to remove the funds from the account, you can do so by
> direct transfer to a checking account for free. It takes 3-4 business days
> for the transfer to complete. You can have a check mailed for $1.50 -
> which takes 1-2 weeks to get to you. It costs $1.00 to get cash out of an
> ATM.
>
> There is never any charge for sending money to others, even private
> accounts that cannot accept credit/debit card sourced payments and receive
> the funds without charge.

And the PayPal costs in the EU are very similar and far more convenient and 
cost-effective than other methods for smallish companies, despite the current 
teething problems...

Charlie

------------------------------

Message-ID: <90d9c998050707091554e4639 [at] mail.gmail.com>
Date: Thu, 7 Jul 2005 12:15:54 -0400
From: Scott Parker <scparker [at] gmail.com>
Reply-To: Scott Parker <scparker [at] gmail.com>
Subject: Re: looking for a special paint roller cleaner
In-Reply-To: <list-23540675 [at] prxy.net>
References: <list-23540675 [at] prxy.net>

I've had this type of discussion with my students many times. While I
agree with you, it's to a point.
The roller wizard that I said I liked cleans many types of rollers
including ones with patterns that can be very costly. But, besides
that, here's how I look at it.
This contraption cleans a roller in about two minutes. The roller
cover can stay on the roller frame during and after cleaning. (though
one must be sure no paint remains inside the cover.)
If the average price for a cover is $1.50+/-, at 30 rollers an hour,
you're going to save $45 by cleaning instead of replacing. Depending
on the rate you pay, your mileage will vary.
In my school setting with "free" labor, I can buy other needed
tools/supplies for that $45/hour.
Paying for supplies is another discussion that we have in the shop.
Why do we spend time removing nails after strike? Recycling ten 2'x4's
pays for a new tape measure, etc... Note that 2'x4's with too many
nails are trashed. 2'x4's with nails at the ends; the ends are cut off
instead of pulling the nails.

Later, Scott

On 7/6/05, Alf Sauve <alf.sauve [at] mindspring.com> wrote:
> For info, archives & UNSUBSCRIBE, see <http://stagecraft.theprices.net/>
> ---------------------------------------------------
>=20
>=20
>  To get on my economic soap box again, I'm not sure how cleaning rollers
>  with or without the "roller thing-a-ma-bob" either saves time or is neat=
er
>  than just throwing them away.
> --=20

Take care, Scott

Scott C. Parker
Professor/Technical Director
Dept. of Performing Arts
Dyson College of Arts and Sciences  [at]  Pace University
Office/shipping: 41 Park Row, 1205F
Mailing: 1 Pace Plaza=20
New York, NY 10038
212-346-1423  Fax: 914-989-8425

------------------------------

Message-ID: <3118.64.28.50.179.1120754947.squirrel [at] webmail.peak.org>
In-Reply-To: <list-23554452 [at] prxy.net>
References: <list-23529338 [at] prxy.net> <list-23533241 [at] prxy.net>   
    <list-23544451 [at] prxy.net> <list-23549449 [at] prxy.net>
    <list-23554452 [at] prxy.net>
Date: Thu, 7 Jul 2005 09:49:07 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: Re: still more dichroic filters
From: "Bill Nelson" <billn [at] peak.org>

>  What I did discover while playing was the reds were really nice when
> mixing
> Magenta and Amber to different degrees. Throwing the "extreme magenta"
> wheel
> in to the mix produced the best looking (saturated) reds I have ever seen
> while using a conventional fixture. (S4 750 watt) The problem I had was
> finding a CYM combination that made a deep blue that was equally as
> impressive. I could not find that combination. This lead me to believe
> that if there was a secondary wheel like an "extreme blue" for making deep
> blues it would be a good thing. I think VL's has an extra blue wheel for
> this reason? Can anyone confirm that?

Blue doesn't fit into the system. It is an additive color, not
subtractive. I suppose a person could use such a 4th wheel just to get
pure blues.

Based on my limited experiences with CMY lighting, you are unlikely to
ever get pure red, blue or green - but you can get pretty darn close on
two out of the three.

> These changers also have the option of being built with a neutral density
> filter in place of the extreme magenta wheel for dimming the S4 HID
> fixtures. Adding this filter with all colors at full will produce a
> blackout.

I took a look at the chromaticity diagrams at the site and this reduces
the depth of red and blue that you can get somewhat, as would be expected.
I do like the ND idea, even with conventional incandescent fixtures. It
allows dimming the fixture without having a color shift towards the red.

Bill


------------------------------

From: "Brian Busch" <bpbusch [at] techie.com>
Date: Thu, 07 Jul 2005 11:03:12 -0600
Subject: Re: McFeelys Screws
Message-Id: <20050707170312.7765F2000E [at] ws1-1a.us4.outblaze.com>

I should have replaced the question mark with a period. That is what I get =
for not proofing a second time. Of course there are going to be times where=
 one simply cannot use square drive screws. Attaching sheet goods to steel =
tubing is an excellent example of using philips TEK screws, as is using phi=
lips TAPCONs for attaching things to concrete. Again, these are special app=
lications and there are multiple ways to do what I just mentioned, some of =
which do not even include screws. With the proper application of glue one h=
ardly needs screws. Your mileage may very and it depends wholly on the type=
 of work that you do and the kind of time at hand. I am not attempting to t=
ell anyone that they can live in a philips-free environment as there is a t=
ime and a place for them, I just limit the places much more than you do. *g=
rin*

Brian Busch
Technical Director
Coterie Theatre

(P.S. Dearest Chris, didn't your mother teach you to trim your post. ;-)

>When attaching wood to steel we have found that self-drilling screws
>require a "special drive variation" of a Phillips head.....
>How does one in your position reconcile the differences between the two?=
=A0 *grin*
>
>Chris Kennedy

>>course there are some other drive variations for special applications?

------------------------------

Message-ID: <3130.64.28.50.179.1120756443.squirrel [at] webmail.peak.org>
In-Reply-To: <list-23554797 [at] prxy.net>
References: <list-23535146 [at] prxy.net> <list-23536726 [at] prxy.net>
    <list-23537426 [at] prxy.net> <list-23539999 [at] prxy.net>
    <list-23543682 [at] prxy.net> <list-23544189 [at] prxy.net>
    <list-23544631 [at] prxy.net> <list-23554797 [at] prxy.net>
Date: Thu, 7 Jul 2005 10:14:03 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: Re: Merchant accounts?
From: "Bill Nelson" <billn [at] peak.org>

> Also, Amex claims they no longer block PayPal.  I should get that in
> writing from them.

Paypal is NOT a credit card company, it is a credit card accepting
merchant. They have no merchandise, they just facilitate the transfer of
money from one account to another - and charge a fee for this convenience.

As such, Paypal is bound by any restrictions imposed on its merchant
credit card account by its bank. If they now accept Amex, then it is due
to Paypal's bank starting to accept Amex - or they got a separate Amex
account.

Bill




------------------------------

From: FrankWood95 [at] aol.com
Message-ID: <1fc.51979d9.2ffebd33 [at] aol.com>
Date: Thu, 7 Jul 2005 13:15:31 EDT
Subject: Re: McFeelys Screws

In a message dated 07/07/05 04:20:48 GMT Daylight Time, gbierly [at] dejazzd.com 
writes:

>  I have 
>  another year or two of transition where we have to keep a phillips and 
>  square bit on each drill.  I have also found the super wide head screws 
>  very handy at times.

The trouble with Phillips-like screws is that there are actually two 
standards. There is the original Phillips, which has a 60 degree point angle, and the 
later Pozidriv, with a 90 degree point. Using the wrong driver can cause 
problems. As you all must be aware, once a cross-headed screw has had the head 
mauled, you have had it. The only way out is with a suitable drill. At least the 
cross-head gives you a centre mark for drilling. Thhe old fashioned slotted 
heads were more amanable to less drastic measures, such as a hammer and a cold 
chisel.


Frank Wood

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 7 Jul 2005 18:22:01 +0100 (BST)
From: Charlie Richmond <charlier [at] RichmondSoundDesign.com>
Subject: Re: Merchant accounts?
In-Reply-To: <list-23557151 [at] prxy.net>
Message-ID: <Pine.LNX.4.60.0507071820200.27316 [at] viscount.richmondsounddesign.com>
References: <list-23535146 [at] prxy.net> <list-23536726 [at] prxy.net>   
 <list-23537426 [at] prxy.net> <list-23539999 [at] prxy.net>    <list-23543682 [at] prxy.net>
 <list-23544189 [at] prxy.net>    <list-23544631 [at] prxy.net> <list-23554797 [at] prxy.net>
 <list-23557151 [at] prxy.net>

On Thu, 7 Jul 2005, Bill Nelson wrote:

> As such, Paypal is bound by any restrictions imposed on its merchant
> credit card account by its bank. If they now accept Amex, then it is due
> to Paypal's bank starting to accept Amex - or they got a separate Amex
> account.

They used to accept Amex and it's my understanding that Amex was the one who 
cancelled the relationship, but of course that comes from PayPal so who knows? 
I can't imagine any reason why PayPal would want to stop something that 
obviously was working well ;-)

Charlie

+ Charlie Richmond - Richmond Sound Design - Skype: charlierichmond +
+ http://www.RichmondSoundDesign.com "Performance for the Long Run" +

------------------------------

Message-Id: <6.2.1.2.0.20050707101928.029e32d8 [at] 192.168.0.13>
Date: Thu, 07 Jul 2005 10:25:48 -0700
From: Jerry Durand <jdurand [at] interstellar.com>
Subject: Re: Merchant accounts?
In-Reply-To: <list-23557151 [at] prxy.net>
References: <list-23535146 [at] prxy.net>
 <list-23536726 [at] prxy.net>
 <list-23537426 [at] prxy.net>
 <list-23539999 [at] prxy.net>
 <list-23543682 [at] prxy.net>
 <list-23544189 [at] prxy.net>
 <list-23544631 [at] prxy.net>
 <list-23554797 [at] prxy.net>
 <list-23557151 [at] prxy.net>

At 10:14 AM 7/7/2005, you wrote:
>Paypal is NOT a credit card company, it is a credit card accepting
>merchant. They have no merchandise, they just facilitate the transfer of
>money from one account to another - and charge a fee for this convenience.

Correct.  I didn't mean to imply they were a card issuing company or a 
merchant.

>As such, Paypal is bound by any restrictions imposed on its merchant
>credit card account by its bank. If they now accept Amex, then it is due
>to Paypal's bank starting to accept Amex - or they got a separate Amex
>account.

It's not ALL Amex accounts that have problems, only the "large corporate" 
accounts.  Small corporate accounts and personal accounts have always 
worked just fine.  That's part of what has never been explained by Amex, 
why most of their accounts can use PayPal (et al), but the large corporate 
can't.  The only explanation they would give me is they can't verify that 
the corporation authorized the charge (how this differs from any other 
charge is a mystery).

I'll post whatever reply I receive from them.  I did once get my Amex 
account manager fired for making up rules as she went along.





----------
Jerry Durand
Durand Interstellar, Inc.
219 Oak Wood Way
Los Gatos, California 95032-2523 USA
tel:  +1 408 356-3886, USA toll free:  1 866 356-3886
web:  www.interstellar.com




------------------------------

Message-ID: <90d9c99805070710424ee7e84 [at] mail.gmail.com>
Date: Thu, 7 Jul 2005 13:42:05 -0400
From: Scott Parker <scparker [at] gmail.com>
Reply-To: Scott Parker <scparker [at] gmail.com>
Subject: Re: Merchant accounts?
In-Reply-To: <list-23557320 [at] prxy.net>
References: <list-23535146 [at] prxy.net> <list-23536726 [at] prxy.net>
	 <list-23537426 [at] prxy.net> <list-23539999 [at] prxy.net>
	 <list-23543682 [at] prxy.net> <list-23544189 [at] prxy.net>
	 <list-23544631 [at] prxy.net> <list-23554797 [at] prxy.net>
	 <list-23557151 [at] prxy.net> <list-23557320 [at] prxy.net>

Speaking of Paypal.
I'm having a little trouble getting a full refund for a non-delivered
item I paid for using Paypal. So far, they've given $40 credit for the
$90 I spent. I'm waiting for a reply to my query as to the rest.

Take care, Scott

=09Scott C. Parker
=09Professor/Technical Director
=09Dept. of Performing Arts
=09Dyson College of Arts and Sciences  [at]  Pace University
=09Office/shipping: 41 Park Row, 1205F
=09Mailing: 1 Pace Plaza=20
=09New York, NY 10038
=09212-346-1423  Fax: 914-989-8425

------------------------------

Message-ID: <3159.64.28.50.179.1120758407.squirrel [at] webmail.peak.org>
In-Reply-To: <list-23557189 [at] prxy.net>
References: <list-23557189 [at] prxy.net>
Date: Thu, 7 Jul 2005 10:46:47 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: Re: McFeelys Screws
From: "Bill Nelson" <billn [at] peak.org>

> The trouble with Phillips-like screws is that there are actually two
> standards. There is the original Phillips, which has a 60 degree point
> angle, and the
> later Pozidriv, with a 90 degree point. Using the wrong driver can cause
> problems.

I sometime suspect that they cut all the screws with about a 75 degree
angle, so that they match neither Posidrive or Phillips standard. I have a
complete set of expensive bits for both and often find that some screws
match none of them.

Bill


------------------------------

Message-ID: <3172.64.28.50.179.1120759150.squirrel [at] webmail.peak.org>
In-Reply-To: <list-23557600 [at] prxy.net>
References: <list-23535146 [at] prxy.net> <list-23536726 [at] prxy.net> 
    <list-23537426 [at] prxy.net> <list-23539999 [at] prxy.net> 
    <list-23543682 [at] prxy.net> <list-23544189 [at] prxy.net> 
    <list-23544631 [at] prxy.net> <list-23554797 [at] prxy.net> 
    <list-23557151 [at] prxy.net> <list-23557320 [at] prxy.net>
    <list-23557600 [at] prxy.net>
Date: Thu, 7 Jul 2005 10:59:10 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: Re: Merchant accounts?
From: "Bill Nelson" <billn [at] peak.org>
Cc: scparker [at] gmail.com (Scott Parker)

> Speaking of Paypal.
> I'm having a little trouble getting a full refund for a non-delivered
> item I paid for using Paypal. So far, they've given $40 credit for the
> $90 I spent. I'm waiting for a reply to my query as to the rest.

This is one of the problems with Paypal. If the seller has withdrawn most
of their funds from the account, then Paypal cannot get the full amount
back unless that person decides to make a Paypal purchase. They then
piggyback the shortage onto the person's payment.

If you funded the payment with a credit card - the best way to use Paypal,
then you can usually get the rest through your credit card company. Call
Paypal and see if they can tell you whether they are likely to be able to
get the rest for you. If not, and you used a credit card, contact your
credit card company to do a chargeback. Paypal's phone is 888-221-1161.
You usually have 60-90 days from your credit card billing to dispute a
charge.

Bill




------------------------------

Subject: melting light bulbs
Date: Thu, 7 Jul 2005 14:02:41 -0400
Message-ID: <E8C02C6B1ABC6B4DBF28862341A33F860FEBA5 [at] excusma100>
From: "Cyr, Dale" <Dale.Cyr [at] getronics.com>

this might not be strictly On Topic,
but I bet someone knows what's going on...

a friend is having a problem with light bulbs melting
in his ceiling fixtures.
sometimes the glass separates from the base,
sometimes actually deforming the glass envelope,
apparently from heat.

as the resident electrician in the neighborhood,
he came asking for help.

I havent heard of this one before...

house, and wiring, is old, probably knob and tube.
fixtures are new(ish): ceiling fan and 4 lamps,
probably at least three of these on one circuit,
probably more stuff on that same circuit.

when I turn on the ceiling fan,
voltage drops from ~121 to ~111.
this seems significant, but I'm not sure why.

I havent measures amps on the circuit yet,
I intend to do that tonight.

if watts =3D volts * amps,
and volts go low, probably due to resistance (?),
then amps go high(er),
but does higher amps mean higher heat?
(in the lamp itself)


dale cyr
Training Supervisor
IATSE Local 93
Spokane Wa

------------------------------

Message-ID: <BAY103-F363DF02CB2D66F9265AF3FDDD80 [at] phx.gbl>
In-Reply-To: <list-23557885 [at] prxy.net>
From: "Donald Robert Fox" <dsgnrlight [at] hotmail.com>
Subject: RE: melting light bulbs
Date: Thu, 07 Jul 2005 18:32:56 +0000

The heat is getting trapped around the lamp somehow and affecting the 
integrity if the lamp.  The lamp wattage may be to high if this fixture is 
of true vintage quality.  The older fixtures were not designed for the lamps 
that are now being manufactured and placed into use.

D.R. Fox
IES- IALD
Unicersity of The Incarnate word



------------------------------

Message-Id: <6.2.1.2.0.20050707120457.03c0e1d0 [at] 192.168.0.13>
Date: Thu, 07 Jul 2005 12:06:05 -0700
From: Jerry Durand <jdurand [at] interstellar.com>
Subject: Fwd: Fire chief urges legal fireworks

This is from a pyro mailing list...


>http://www.gazette.com/display.php?id=1308805&secid=1
>
>July 07, 2005
>Fire chief urges legal fireworks
>
>By DENNIS HUSPENI and PERRY SWANSON THE GAZETTE
>
>It's an Independence Day tradition as common as backyard barbecues: dire
>warnings on the dangers of fireworks.
>
>Mangled fingers. Eyesight and hearing lost. Homes burned to the ground.
>
>Yet fireworks caused only a few minor injuries and almost no property
>damage this year in the Pikes Peak region, a Gazette survey of public
>safety agencies found.
>...much etc...
>
>Fountain Chief Darin Anstine thinks the dangers of pyrotechnics are
>overstated, and that fireworks are not the pervasive threat that
>annual education campaigns make them out to be.
>
>"I think they should be legalized," he said. "The statistics are not
>there. They are absolutely not there."
>...
>-------------------------------------------------------
>best
>dwp


----------
Jerry Durand
Durand Interstellar, Inc.
219 Oak Wood Way
Los Gatos, California 95032-2523 USA
tel:  +1 408 356-3886, USA toll free:  1 866 356-3886
web:  www.interstellar.com




------------------------------

Subject: RE: melting light bulbs
Date: Thu, 7 Jul 2005 15:07:34 -0400
Message-ID: <E8C02C6B1ABC6B4DBF28862341A33F860FEBA6 [at] excusma100>
From: "Cyr, Dale" <Dale.Cyr [at] getronics.com>

the fixtures are probably 3-4 years old,
ceiling fan with light kit.
the lamps are more or less in free air.
pretty standard type for this part of the country.
lamps are different brands, but quality names.
60w lamps, fixtures are rated for them.
(gotta re-check that last statement tonight)

dale cyr
Training Supervisor
IATSE Local 93
Spokane Wa


-----Original Message-----
The heat is getting trapped around the lamp somehow and affecting the=20
integrity if the lamp.  The lamp wattage may be to high if this fixture
is=20
of true vintage quality.  The older fixtures were not designed for the
lamps=20
that are now being manufactured and placed into use.

D.R. Fox
IES- IALD
Unicersity of The Incarnate word



------------------------------

Message-ID: <3205.64.28.50.179.1120763786.squirrel [at] webmail.peak.org>
In-Reply-To: <list-23557885 [at] prxy.net>
References: <list-23557885 [at] prxy.net>
Date: Thu, 7 Jul 2005 12:16:26 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: Re: melting light bulbs
From: "Bill Nelson" <billn [at] peak.org>


> a friend is having a problem with light bulbs melting
> in his ceiling fixtures.
> sometimes the glass separates from the base,
> sometimes actually deforming the glass envelope,
> apparently from heat.

Are these recessed fixtures? If so, then he is probably using lamps with
too high a wattage requirement.  But I can't imagine them getting hot
enough to deform the envelope.

> when I turn on the ceiling fan,
> voltage drops from ~121 to ~111.
> this seems significant, but I'm not sure why.

All the following assumes there is no light dimmer in the circuit that
could be causing the problem.

Where are you measuring the voltage, at the lamps? If the drop is at the
distribution panel, then there is a more serious problem - but other
symptoms should also be present.

If at the lamp, this is a sure sign that the wiring from the distribution
panel to the lamps is too small. The wire resistance is too high - so the
voltage drop is greater than acceptable by the NEC. If all the sets of
lamps are on the same circuit, then wiring between the lamp sets could
also be too small. This would show up as different voltage drops at
different lamp sets.

> I havent measures amps on the circuit yet,
> I intend to do that tonight.
>
> if watts = volts * amps,
> and volts go low, probably due to resistance (?),
> then amps go high(er),
> but does higher amps mean higher heat?
> (in the lamp itself)

It doesn't work that way. The current depends on the voltage and the
resistance. So if the voltage is too low, the current will also be too
low. Consequently, the intensity of the lamp will be lower as well as the
wattage supplied to the lamp will be too low. This is what happen when you
put a rheostat (varactor) in series with a lamp.

Where is the rest of the power being lost? In the wiring between the
distribution panel and the fixtures. That is not a good thing.

Let's assume that a fixture is rated for (and contains) four 60 watt
lamps. That means that the fixture is trying to consume 240 watts of
power, which means it would normally draw 2 amps of current. For 2 amps of
current to flow, the hot resistance must be 60 ohms. (resistance equals
voltage divided by current)

We will make another assumption here, that the hot resistance of the lamps
is going to remain constant - even with the different voltage across it.

With 110 volts and fixture resistance of 60 ohms, about 202 watts are
consumed (the lights are significantly dimmer than they should be). The
current is actually only 1.84 amps.

Since there is a 10 volt drop in the source wiring, and the current is
1.84 amps, that means the power loss in the wiring is 18.4 watts - a
significant amount of heat. If the lights are left on for a long time and
the wiring is under an insulation blanket, this could pose a fire hazard.

Lets assume that the fixture we did the calculation on was the closest to
the distribution panel and that there are 3 more fixtures. Also assume
that the wiring between the fixture is adequate to not produce a further
voltage drop.

When all four are on, there is roughly 4 times the current flowing. You
would think that this means that there is 4 times the heat loss in the
wires, but that is incorrect. Assuming the wiring resistance remains
constant, the formula is current*current*resistance (commonly called "I
squared R loss"). It is the reason that long distance transmission lines
are high voltage - to keep the current as low as possible. With 4 times
the current, there is 16 times as much power lost in heating the wiring -
almost 300 watts. Without good air circulation, this can fairly quickly
become a significant hazard.

So, why doesn't the wattage used by the fixtures go up in this "squared"
fashion? Because the current through the fixture does not change when you
turn on another one. So the currents and wattages are added.

I hope this is of some interest to someone, and that I have not made it
too confusing. It has been a very long time since I taught basic
electrical theory.

Bill




------------------------------

Date: Thu, 07 Jul 2005 15:22:43 -0400
From: IAEG [at] aol.com
Subject: Re: Fwd: Fire chief urges legal fireworks
Message-ID: <63F40191.5536CDDE.00002B9E [at] aol.com>

so what ARE the statistics ?   are there statistics ? 

the Tampa Bay area was RAMPANT with fireworks, with tent stands set up on practically every street corner,  ( still there ) 

the hitch ?  you have to sign a statement that you are buying them for " agricultural " purposes, , i e , scaring the crows away from your crops, 

yes sir, , that's right, , you buy that huge $ 150 ironing board size box of misc chinese bottle rockets, shooting stars, spinners, roman candles, , mini mortars, , and you are using that to spare your summer tomato crop, ,   yeah, , , , right, , , 

it's just become un enforcable, , 


very best, 

Keith Arsenault
International Arts & Entertainment Group





------------------------------

Message-Id: <6.2.1.2.0.20050707122903.03cc57f8 [at] 192.168.0.13>
Date: Thu, 07 Jul 2005 12:31:19 -0700
From: Jerry Durand <jdurand [at] interstellar.com>
Subject: Re: Fwd: Fire chief urges legal fireworks
In-Reply-To: <list-23558991 [at] prxy.net>
References: <list-23558991 [at] prxy.net>

At 12:22 PM 7/7/2005, you wrote:

>so what ARE the statistics ?   are there statistics ?

Fireworks:
http://www.cpsc.gov/LIBRARY/2004fwreport.PDF

3.3 injuries per 100,000 people as of 2004 (these are all injuries, minor 
burn, dropped box on foot, car accident on way to show, etc.)

Toys:
http://www.cpsc.gov/library/foia/foia05/os/toymemo03.pdf

206,500 injuries for the year 2003


The whole list:
http://www.cpsc.gov/LIBRARY/data.html


----------
Jerry Durand
Durand Interstellar, Inc.
219 Oak Wood Way
Los Gatos, California 95032-2523 USA
tel:  +1 408 356-3886, USA toll free:  1 866 356-3886
web:  www.interstellar.com




------------------------------

Message-Id: <6.2.1.2.0.20050707123410.03cb43e8 [at] 192.168.0.13>
Date: Thu, 07 Jul 2005 12:34:52 -0700
From: Jerry Durand <jdurand [at] interstellar.com>
Subject: Re: Fwd: Fire chief urges legal fireworks
In-Reply-To: <list-23559122 [at] prxy.net>
References: <list-23558991 [at] prxy.net>
 <list-23559122 [at] prxy.net>

At 12:31 PM 7/7/2005, you wrote:

>3.3 injuries per 100,000 FIREWORKS lit

Sorry for the typo.


----------
Jerry Durand
Durand Interstellar, Inc.
219 Oak Wood Way
Los Gatos, California 95032-2523 USA
tel:  +1 408 356-3886, USA toll free:  1 866 356-3886
web:  www.interstellar.com




------------------------------

Subject: RE: melting light bulbs
Date: Thu, 7 Jul 2005 15:37:46 -0400
Message-ID: <E8C02C6B1ABC6B4DBF28862341A33F860FEBA9 [at] excusma100>
From: "Cyr, Dale" <Dale.Cyr [at] getronics.com>

violating both the 'new stuff is at the top of the post'
AND the 'new stuff is at the bottom of the post'
my comments are in-line :)

dale cyr
Training Supervisor
IATSE Local 93
Spokane Wa



> a friend is having a problem with light bulbs melting
> in his ceiling fixtures.
> sometimes the glass separates from the base,
> sometimes actually deforming the glass envelope,
> apparently from heat.

Are these recessed fixtures?=20
[dalecyr] no. surface mount.
each lamp is essentially in free air.

> when I turn on the ceiling fan,
> voltage drops from ~121 to ~111.
> this seems significant, but I'm not sure why.

All the following assumes there is no light dimmer in the circuit that
could be causing the problem.

[dalecyr]  uuummm... oh,yea.
the switch got replaced with a dimmer sometime in the past,
but its always run at full.
(or so he says)

Where are you measuring the voltage, at the lamps?=20
[dalecyr] yes.  take all four lamps out, measure in an empty socket,
turn on fan, measure again.

If at the lamp, this is a sure sign that the wiring from the
distribution
panel to the lamps is too small.=20
[dalecyr] I agree, and that is my main concern (ie: heat loss in the=20
branch circuit wiring).

<snip>
(good explanation of watts/amps/volts/resistance relationships.)
<snip>

[dalecyr]
ok.
but why are the lamps melting?

------------------------------

Message-ID: <3235.64.28.50.179.1120765694.squirrel [at] webmail.peak.org>
In-Reply-To: <list-23559235 [at] prxy.net>
References: <list-23559235 [at] prxy.net>
Date: Thu, 7 Jul 2005 12:48:14 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: Re: melting light bulbs
From: "Bill Nelson" <billn [at] peak.org>

> All the following assumes there is no light dimmer in the circuit that
> could be causing the problem.
>
> [dalecyr]  uuummm... oh,yea.
> the switch got replaced with a dimmer sometime in the past,
> but its always run at full.
> (or so he says)

First thing to do is bypass the dimmer. They are not 100% efficient and
cause rf interference. If he does not dim the lights, put a regular switch
back in it's place.

There is a good chance the voltage will be back where it belongs after the
dimmer is bypassed.

> Where are you measuring the voltage, at the lamps?
> [dalecyr] yes.  take all four lamps out, measure in an empty socket,
> turn on fan, measure again.

Does the fan, by itself, cause that much voltage drop? Is the fan on the
dimmer as well? It shouldn't be.

> but why are the lamps melting?

No idea. In half a century of working with incandescent lights, I have
never encountered one where the envelope was melted or distorted. I have
run across the rare lamp where the cement seal failed.

There is now way that a lamp should get hot enough to melt - without the
house burning down around it.

Bill



------------------------------

In-Reply-To: <list-23555422 [at] prxy.net>
References: <list-23535146 [at] prxy.net> <list-23536726 [at] prxy.net> <list-23537426 [at] prxy.net> <list-23539999 [at] prxy.net> <list-23543682 [at] prxy.net> <list-23548010 [at] prxy.net> <list-23552926 [at] prxy.net> <list-23555422 [at] prxy.net>
Message-Id: <5330d2772b19290a2d912d910c3382ee [at] dejazzd.com>
From: Greg Bierly <gbierly [at] dejazzd.com>
Subject: Re: Merchant accounts?
Date: Thu, 7 Jul 2005 15:57:47 -0400

> One advantage of Paypal over credit cards is that there are on-line
> detailed records of the account that received the funds and details of
> what was purchased. It is also possible to print of statements of
> activity.

If I set up the online account using my district purchase card, the 
district only sees a charge from PayPal only I would see the online 
accounting.  If I am honest I print out a hardcopy and submit it to the 
business office.  If I am dishonest I charge personal items to the 
account mixed in with actual purchases.  The dishonest will always have 
a way to skim money.  A good business office will limit their 
liabilities wherever they can.  Thus I won't be using the purchase card 
for PayPal.

Greg Bierly
Technical Director
Hempfield HS


------------------------------

Message-Id: <3.0.6.32.20050707133726.011b2698 [at] pop.west.cox.net>
Date: Thu, 07 Jul 2005 13:37:26
From: CB <psyd [at] cox.net>
Subject: Re: Where does the responsibility lie?

>I
>do not think the designer is one at whom to point the finger.
>Practicality, constructability and safety issues are certainly something
>the PM and SM should help the designer understand and correct.

I am not an entertainment lawyer, nor do I play one on TV.  While I think
the term 'responsibility' here may be being used in several contexts (i.e.,
who is legally responsible, who should know better, and maybe who should
get the verbal abuse/fired over this).  If we coudl find out which context
it was being asked in, I'm surethat we could all agree more easily.
All that being said, in the context of the 'who should have known better'
of the word, I DO think that the designer has some responsibility.  I could
be wrong, and this is just how I FEEL about it, but if you're going to
design something for actors to stand on and in and around, you should have
some awareness of the rules and regs that govern what actors will stand on,
in, and around.  If Unka Bill were to design something to fly and actor (I
know, I know, he probably would pass, play with me here a second) he'd not
run something out and say "Just run this spanset under each arm and then
run it through this here shackle.  He has an obligation to design something
that will support an actor comfortably, and safely.  While his design will
adequately support and actor, it fails in the other two categories.  Yes,
everyone on the design team would probalby catch it, but Unk still has a
responsibility to consider design specifications of comfort and safety.  He
would, because of his experience, be expected to already KNOW that these
things are expected, and so it would be in his respnosibilities.
Kinda the same way that anyone designing a building should know that a
wheelchair access should have a 1 - 12 rise over run.
I could be wrong, and I'm sure that soemone will point out where, but as I
said, thes is how I FEEL about the issue.
				Chris "Chris" Babbie
				Location Sound
				MON AZ

Delete key training and post trimming done by appointment.  Rates
negotiable, will trade for typing lessons/ADD treatment...

------------------------------

Message-Id: <3.0.6.32.20050707134843.011b2698 [at] pop.west.cox.net>
Date: Thu, 07 Jul 2005 13:48:43
From: CB <psyd [at] cox.net>
Subject: RE: OT-Fireworks

>Listening to synchronized fireworks when you are not at the official =
>viewing
>spot can be a big let down. 

Remember, I've been the sound provider for such shows.  If FOH isn't a
prime listening location, someone has done some really bad calcs, and I'm
not sure I want to be nest to explosives that they've designed...

>If you want to see and hear it done right plan a visit to Disney.
>
I'm not sure that it's be worth it.  Crowds being what they are nowadays,
I'm not sure that I could stand the abuse.  As this is the second time the
Rat has been suggested, I'll take it as writ that they can do a great job
of this, and I've jsut bee unfortunate in the past.
				Chris "Chris" Babbie
				Location Sound
				MON AZ

Delete key training and post trimming done by appointment.  Rates
negotiable, will trade for typing lessons/ADD treatment...

------------------------------

From: "Dr. Randall W.A. Davidson" <doomster [at] worldnet.att.net>
Subject: RE: Fire chief urges legal fireworks
Date: Thu, 7 Jul 2005 14:48:30 -0600
In-Reply-To: <list-23558775 [at] prxy.net>
Message-ID: <auto-000023560229 [at] prxy.net>

Sort of fascinating from his point of view. I have moved to Littleton,
Colorado, and as the former chairperson for the NFPA Pyro committee for many
years and a committee member, I noted that in our little local that
enforcement was what I would call nil, with debris falling into my backyard
for four days before the 4th and on the fourth as well. All over the
neighborhood, and the regulations were specifically displayed in the papers
as to legalities. Dr. Doom

-- 
Dr. Randall W.A. Davidson, Risk International & Associates, Inc. -
www.riskit.com   Latest workshops for Educational and Entertainment Industry
Performing Arts Personnel (Riggers, and Public Assembly and Educational
Technicians) www.riskit.com/workshops    International Secondary Education
Theater Safety Association (ISETSA) - www.isetsa.org
-----Original Message-----
From: Stagecraft [mailto:stagecraft [at] theatrical.net] On Behalf Of Jerry
Durand
Sent: Thursday, July 07, 2005 1:06 PM
To: Stagecraft
Subject: Fwd: Fire chief urges legal fireworks

For info, archives & UNSUBSCRIBE, see <http://stagecraft.theprices.net/>
---------------------------------------------------

This is from a pyro mailing list...


>http://www.gazette.com/display.php?id=1308805&secid=1
>
>July 07, 2005
>Fire chief urges legal fireworks
>
>By DENNIS HUSPENI and PERRY SWANSON THE GAZETTE
>
>It's an Independence Day tradition as common as backyard barbecues: dire
>warnings on the dangers of fireworks.
>
>Mangled fingers. Eyesight and hearing lost. Homes burned to the ground.
>
>Yet fireworks caused only a few minor injuries and almost no property
>damage this year in the Pikes Peak region, a Gazette survey of public
>safety agencies found.
>...much etc...
>
>Fountain Chief Darin Anstine thinks the dangers of pyrotechnics are
>overstated, and that fireworks are not the pervasive threat that
>annual education campaigns make them out to be.
>
>"I think they should be legalized," he said. "The statistics are not
>there. They are absolutely not there."
>...
>-------------------------------------------------------
>best
>dwp


----------
Jerry Durand
Durand Interstellar, Inc.
219 Oak Wood Way
Los Gatos, California 95032-2523 USA
tel:  +1 408 356-3886, USA toll free:  1 866 356-3886
web:  www.interstellar.com




------------------------------

From: "Tony Deeming" <deeming.tony [at] btinternet.com>
Subject: RE: OT-Fireworks
Date: Thu, 7 Jul 2005 22:22:03 +0100
Message-ID: <ODEMKLAMIBKNHPJLNKDPOECLCMAA.deeming.tony [at] btinternet.com>
In-Reply-To: <list-23559969 [at] prxy.net>


>Listening to synchronized fireworks when you are not at the official =
>viewing
>spot can be a big let down.

Remember, I've been the sound provider for such shows.  If FOH isn't a
prime listening location, someone has done some really bad calcs, and I'm
not sure I want to be nest to explosives that they've designed...

>If you want to see and hear it done right plan a visit to Disney.
>
I'm not sure that it's be worth it.  Crowds being what they are nowadays,
I'm not sure that I could stand the abuse.  As this is the second time the
Rat has been suggested, I'll take it as writ that they can do a great job
of this, and I've jsut bee unfortunate in the past.
				Chris "Chris" Babbie
				Location Sound
				MON AZ


Disney do a lot of things well, despite the negatives that are often voiced
in this and other groups. Personally I've always enjoyed my trips to the
Mouse's House, whether Orlando, Annaheim or Paris.

I think one way that they get by the sound to lights issues is by properly
positioning (often cleverly concealed) PA speakers so that you're never very
far away from the sound source which is synched to the
fireworks/lights/lasers/whatever.

On my very first Disney excursion in 88, I was immediately struck by the
audio quality and organisation - walking round Epcot there seemed to be an
almost imperceptible change when travelling twixt the countries, as the mood
changed to reflect the nationality of the area you go through. Similarly
when the parades go through Magic Kingdom for example they used essentially
the same song/tune but with variations to suit the float that's going by.
I've often thought that the programming of that sort of co-ordination must
have been tricky, but it worked and was better for it.

Ynot



------------------------------

From: FrankWood95 [at] aol.com
Message-ID: <146.47fb7832.2fff03de [at] aol.com>
Date: Thu, 7 Jul 2005 18:17:02 EDT
Subject: Re: McFeelys Screws

In a message dated 07/07/05 18:47:24 GMT Daylight Time, billn [at] peak.org writes:

> I sometime suspect that they cut all the screws with about a 75 degree
>  angle, so that they match neither Posidrive or Phillips standard. I have a
>  complete set of expensive bits for both and often find that some screws
>  match none of them.

Don't we all! A tip, though. If you grind the sharp point off a real 
Phillips, you will find it more friendly.



Frank Wood

------------------------------

Message-ID: <BAY103-F118CCB840B30D8A4CFFD40DDD80 [at] phx.gbl>
In-Reply-To: <list-23558795 [at] prxy.net>
From: "Donald Robert Fox" <dsgnrlight [at] hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: melting light bulbs
Date: Thu, 07 Jul 2005 22:28:52 +0000

The Old lamps kits were rated for 40 watt lamps per base.  You might check 
the rating with the manufacturer.



------------------------------

From: FrankWood95 [at] aol.com
Message-ID: <e8.16cb2783.2fff08bf [at] aol.com>
Date: Thu, 7 Jul 2005 18:37:51 EDT
Subject: Re: melting light bulbs

In a message dated 07/07/05 19:03:23 GMT Daylight Time, 
Dale.Cyr [at] getronics.com writes:

> a friend is having a problem with light bulbs melting
>  in his ceiling fixtures.
>  sometimes the glass separates from the base,
>  sometimes actually deforming the glass envelope,
>  apparently from heat.

Both of these are due to local overheating. Some bulbs are very touchy about 
this. Burning lamps cap up which are not designed for this application can 
destroy the cement which attaches tle bulb to its base: burning them in a 
horizontal position can cause melting of the envelope. This can also happen in 
fixtures which ought to be well designed. I remmber several Bell & Howell film 
projectors when the only way to get the lamp out was to destroy it, because it had 
grown a great blister on one side.
>  
>  house, and wiring, is old, probably knob and tube.
>  fixtures are new(ish): ceiling fan and 4 lamps,
>  probably at least three of these on one circuit,
>  probably more stuff on that same circuit.
>  
>  when I turn on the ceiling fan,
>  voltage drops from ~121 to ~111.
>  this seems significant, but I'm not sure why.

This sounds dodgy, to me. I don't think it has any connection with your lamp 
problem, but it sounds as though all the wiring needs a thorough check.
>  
>  if watts = volts * amps,
>  and volts go low, probably due to resistance (?),
>  then amps go high(er),
>  but does higher amps mean higher heat?
>  (in the lamp itself)

No. The wattage of a load is not defined, other than by the applied voltage 
and the resistance of the load. These, and these alone, determine the current 
drawn. Watts are also equal to voltage squared divided by load resistance. A 
little elementary algebra. and Ohm's Law, will enable you to move among all 
these properties.


Frank Wood

------------------------------

From: FrankWood95 [at] aol.com
Message-ID: <45.2bab4dca.2fff0ae5 [at] aol.com>
Date: Thu, 7 Jul 2005 18:47:01 EDT
Subject: Re: melting light bulbs

In a message dated 07/07/05 20:48:47 GMT Daylight Time, billn [at] peak.org writes:

> No idea. In half a century of working with incandescent lights, I have
>  never encountered one where the envelope was melted or distorted. I have
>  run across the rare lamp where the cement seal failed.

You have been lucky. I have met many, all due to LDs not knowing the 
limitations of the bulb.

Frank Wood

------------------------------

Message-ID: <05be01c58354$e4060b20$0400a8c0 [at] ALFOFFICE>
Reply-To: "Alf Sauve" <alf.sauve [at] mindspring.com>
From: "Alf Sauve" <alf.sauve [at] mindspring.com>
References: <list-23552103 [at] prxy.net>
Subject: Re: economic soapbox? and endless debates
Date: Thu, 7 Jul 2005 20:29:34 -0400

It all depends on the definition of "eats up time".

Point being that the cost of time (including opportunity costs) needs to be 
balanced against cost of material savings when recycling.

Alf

btb, I never participate in newsgroups at work, even though stagecraft could 
be considered relevant.   I consider the time I spent reading and learning 
here to be something I'm willing to pay for out of my own free time.

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "RICHARD FINKELSTEIN" <rfinkels [at] msn.com>
To: "Stagecraft" <stagecraft [at] theatrical.net>
Sent: Thursday, July 07, 2005 8:54 AM
Subject: economic soapbox?


> For info, archives & UNSUBSCRIBE, see <http://stagecraft.theprices.net/>
> ---------------------------------------------------
>
> Alas I just asked a simple question, with no intent in starting one of 
> those endless parse every word debates that never end!  But since one of 
> these endless threads have once again been started, I might as well answer 
> to the challenge. This one I really can't resist. <G>
>
>
> Quoting Alf . . . .
>
> >To get on my economic soap box again,
>
> >At my place there are only so many person-hours available
> >each week.  All tasks must be accomplished on schedule.  No added labor
> (or
> >overtime) may be purchased.  Anything that eats up time will cause us to
> >miss schedule.
>
> So...  (imagine the following retort given in the voice of John Stewart)
>
> "Anything that eats up time"  ... "ANYTHING" ???? 
> .....like.......perhaps......pointless chats on the internet when there 
> are deadlines to meet?
>
> 


------------------------------

Message-ID: <002b01c58355$f29f9290$6601a8c0 [at] cz1lbfinkbrlun>
From: "Chad Croteau" <cpcroteau [at] kelcom.igs.net>
References: <list-23561825 [at] prxy.net>
Subject: Re: melting light bulbs
Date: Thu, 7 Jul 2005 20:42:39 -0400

> You have been lucky. I have met many, all due to LDs not knowing the
> limitations of the bulb.
>
> Frank Wood


I've gotta second Mr Wood on this one.  Working in educational theatre, you
occasionally get a lamp that has been inserted in a fixture in such a way
that, when hot, the filament will sag, touch (or at least get too close to)
the glass envelope, and cause a blister to form.  After a while, the blister
becomes the point of failure for the lamp.  It blows through one night, and
that's the last time that we get any luminous joy from that lamp.

In lower wattage lamps, like the ones used in home desklamps and ceiling
fixtures, I've never encountered a blistered glass envelope.  I have,
however, had several lamps twist apart when I went to replace them, leaving
the screw base in the socket, and me holding a glass bulb.  I'm no expert,
but that might have something to do with buying the bargain brand lamps...
I'm fiscally conservative, what can I say?

I'm curious to find out what's causing the blistered lamps in the home
fixtures mentioned by the original poster.  I never imagined it would be
possible to blister a 60W lamp...

Please keep us updated, this is interesting!

Chad







------------------------------

Message-ID: <BAY103-F2567E61EA98438E6008DCFDDDB0 [at] phx.gbl>
In-Reply-To: <list-23559832 [at] prxy.net>
From: "Donald Robert Fox" <dsgnrlight [at] hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: Where does the responsibility lie?
Date: Fri, 08 Jul 2005 01:01:47 +0000

The responsibility or the liability lies with the designer and the technical 
director; essentially the individual who is manufacturing the tool, 
implement, set piece being used.  Unless it is otherwise specified in 
contractual agreement with the producing organization or the user.  For more 
up to date information you should take a look at Risk Management 
International that specializes in the entertainment industry safety issues.

D.R. Fox
IES-IALD
University of the Incarnate Word



------------------------------

Message-ID: <05c501c58359$1572f2f0$0400a8c0 [at] ALFOFFICE>
Reply-To: "Alf Sauve" <alf.sauve [at] mindspring.com>
From: "Alf Sauve" <alf.sauve [at] mindspring.com>
References: <list-23540675 [at] prxy.net> <list-23555699 [at] prxy.net>
Subject: Re: looking for a special paint roller cleaner
Date: Thu, 7 Jul 2005 20:56:48 -0400

Yes, it works for special rollers you want to save.  And if your cost of 
labor is sufficiently low, and you have enough to complete your mission on 
time, go for it.   I'm sure in big scene shops where you have many hands all 
painting at once this will save money.

I just don't have 30 rollers to clean at one time.   Typically only 1 at a 
time so my efficiency would be more like 4r/h, by the time I take the roller 
to the shop, get the cleaner-doohickey, take it to the slop sink, hook it 
up, clean roller, hang roller to dry, clean out doohickey, return doohickey 
to shop, and return to work site.  The cheapest labor I have on site, is 
paid $10/hr.  Fully burdened with benefits and overhead, it costs us closer 
to $20/hour altogether.   15 minutes to save one $1.50 roller would cost $5.

Just beware is all I'm pointing out.

Alf



----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Scott Parker" <scparker [at] gmail.com>
To: "Stagecraft" <stagecraft [at] theatrical.net>
Sent: Thursday, July 07, 2005 12:15 PM
Subject: Re: looking for a special paint roller cleaner


For info, archives & UNSUBSCRIBE, see <http://stagecraft.theprices.net/>
---------------------------------------------------

I've had this type of discussion with my students many times. While I
agree with you, it's to a point.
The roller wizard that I said I liked cleans many types of rollers
including ones with patterns that can be very costly. But, besides
that, here's how I look at it.
This contraption cleans a roller in about two minutes. The roller
cover can stay on the roller frame during and after cleaning. (though
one must be sure no paint remains inside the cover.)
If the average price for a cover is $1.50+/-, at 30 rollers an hour,
you're going to save $45 by cleaning instead of replacing. Depending
on the rate you pay, your mileage will vary.
In my school setting with "free" labor, I can buy other needed
tools/supplies for that $45/hour.
Paying for supplies is another discussion that we have in the shop.
Why do we spend time removing nails after strike? Recycling ten 2'x4's
pays for a new tape measure, etc... Note that 2'x4's with too many
nails are trashed. 2'x4's with nails at the ends; the ends are cut off
instead of pulling the nails.

Later, Scott

On 7/6/05, Alf Sauve <alf.sauve [at] mindspring.com> wrote:
> For info, archives & UNSUBSCRIBE, see <http://stagecraft.theprices.net/>
> ---------------------------------------------------
>
>
>  To get on my economic soap box again, I'm not sure how cleaning rollers
>  with or without the "roller thing-a-ma-bob" either saves time or is 
> neater
>  than just throwing them away.
> -- 

Take care, Scott

Scott C. Parker
Professor/Technical Director
Dept. of Performing Arts
Dyson College of Arts and Sciences  [at]  Pace University
Office/shipping: 41 Park Row, 1205F
Mailing: 1 Pace Plaza
New York, NY 10038
212-346-1423  Fax: 914-989-8425 


------------------------------

From: MissWisc [at] aol.com
Message-ID: <1a2.371c419e.2fff2d5c [at] aol.com>
Date: Thu, 7 Jul 2005 21:14:04 EDT
Subject: Re: Fire chief urges legal fireworks

Someone in my neighborhood shot off some things. Tuesday morning  my 10 year 
old son walkd in with a handfull of bottle-rocket-type-only-bigger  trash that 
had fallen in our backyard. He was cleaning it up so they  could play. Use of 
pyro includes cleanup as well - and NOT by children.  I'll find out who it is 
and call the police in the future. 

Wonder  how many people have traces of fireworks on their hands from the 4th 
then go  flying on the 5th. The TSA folks must be having a field day this week.
 
Kristi

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 07 Jul 2005 21:28:52 -0400 (EDT)
From: Stephen Litterst <slitterst [at] ithaca.edu>
Subject: Re: Fire chief urges legal fireworks
In-reply-to: <list-23563631 [at] prxy.net>
Message-id: <4195.172.174.189.32.1120786132.squirrel [at] 172.174.189.32>
References: <list-23563631 [at] prxy.net>


> ---------------------------------------------------
> Wonder  how many people have traces of fireworks on their hands from the
> 4th
> then go  flying on the 5th. The TSA folks must be having a field day this
> week.

At my last job I had a pyro gig (just a small flashpot) the night before I
left for vacation.  Standard practice was to leave the ATF license with
all the equipment, so I was a bit nervous when the airport screeners did a
residue test on my laptop bag.  Fortunately I passed the test and didn't
have to explain myself.  I started carrying a copy of the license after
that.

Steve Litterst


------------------------------

In-Reply-To: <list-23563631 [at] prxy.net>
References: <list-23563631 [at] prxy.net>
Message-Id: <1D4EA6C5-F147-438B-8959-56A1E83453C1 [at] interstellar.com>
From: Jerry Durand <jdurand [at] interstellar.com>
Subject: Re: Fire chief urges legal fireworks
Date: Thu, 7 Jul 2005 18:29:03 -0700


On Jul 7, 2005, at 6:14 PM, MissWisc [at] aol.com wrote:

> Wonder  how many people have traces of fireworks on their hands  
> from the 4th
> then go  flying on the 5th. The TSA folks must be having a field  
> day this week.

Most of what's in fireworks is NOT what the TSA checks for.  There  
was a pyro instructor who wound up with a bunch of black powder  
dumped on him just before he had to get on a plane.  He was literally  
still shaking it out of pockets and pants cuffs when he went through  
the TSA station...they never detected any of it.

I've had my shoes go through the extra test right after doing a few  
shows in a row, never set anything off.

The TSA is mainly looking for the tracer chemical that's  
intentionally put in plastic explosives so you can detect them.  In  
the USA, everyone except the government has to add this chemical.   
That means only stuff stolen from the military or home made is hard  
to detect, if you buy it on the open marked you'll be caught.



------------------------------

Message-ID: <05fa01c5835d$4764e940$0400a8c0 [at] ALFOFFICE>
Reply-To: "Alf Sauve" <alf.sauve [at] mindspring.com>
From: "Alf Sauve" <alf.sauve [at] mindspring.com>
References: <list-23557885 [at] prxy.net>
Subject: Re: melting light bulbs
Date: Thu, 7 Jul 2005 21:28:17 -0400

Typically, its either too large a wattage or insufficient ventilation.   One 
facility I service had open fixtures designed for drop  ceilings.  But these 
were installed in a sheetrock ceiling and  had 18" of blown insulation on 
top of the fixtures.    Didn't melt the lamp, but it did melt all the 
insulation as far back as 6" from the socket!    It was discovered when the 
night cleaning crew went to change a lamp and were treated to a pyro shower 
from the fixture.

I've also found a 150W MH lamp in a 90W fixture.  Or I should say I found 
was left of the lamp.  It melted most everything inside the fixture before 
it finally melted the glass and blew itself out.    Had to rebuild the 
entire guts since a matching replacement fixture wasn't available.

Your understanding of P=IV is a little off.   The rating (Watts) of a lamp 
is the power it would consume under normal operating conditions.   As you 
reduce voltage (say from 120 to 110) the current would decrease (I=V/R). 
The reduced current would then cause a reduced consumption of power (less 
Watts) as well as a reduction in heat.   This is for a simple incandescent 
lamp, which isn't perfectly linear (resistance also changes with lamp 
temperature) but close enough for this purpose.  And AC current has some 
other peculiarities as well, but still close enough.

So roughly speaking a 120W lamp has a resistance of 120ohms and draws about 
1Amp at 120Volts.  Drop the voltage to 110V then current drops to about 
0.92A and power drops to 101W.    P=V*V/R.




----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Cyr, Dale" <Dale.Cyr [at] getronics.com>
To: "Stagecraft" <stagecraft [at] theatrical.net>
Sent: Thursday, July 07, 2005 2:02 PM
Subject: melting light bulbs


For info, archives & UNSUBSCRIBE, see <http://stagecraft.theprices.net/>
---------------------------------------------------

this might not be strictly On Topic,
but I bet someone knows what's going on...

a friend is having a problem with light bulbs melting
in his ceiling fixtures.
sometimes the glass separates from the base,
sometimes actually deforming the glass envelope,
apparently from heat.

as the resident electrician in the neighborhood,
he came asking for help.

I havent heard of this one before...

house, and wiring, is old, probably knob and tube.
fixtures are new(ish): ceiling fan and 4 lamps,
probably at least three of these on one circuit,
probably more stuff on that same circuit.

when I turn on the ceiling fan,
voltage drops from ~121 to ~111.
this seems significant, but I'm not sure why.

I havent measures amps on the circuit yet,
I intend to do that tonight.

if watts = volts * amps,
and volts go low, probably due to resistance (?),
then amps go high(er),
but does higher amps mean higher heat?
(in the lamp itself)


dale cyr
Training Supervisor
IATSE Local 93
Spokane Wa 


------------------------------

Message-ID: <42CDD97F.7020300 [at] fuse.net>
Date: Thu, 07 Jul 2005 21:40:15 -0400
From: Stuart Wheaton <sdwheaton [at] fuse.net>
Subject: Re: McFeelys Screws
References: <list-23554269 [at] prxy.net>
In-Reply-To: <list-23554269 [at] prxy.net>

Chris Kennedy wrote:

> Dearest Brian,
> 	When attaching wood to steel we have found that self-drilling screws
> require a "special drive variation" of a Phillips head.

The proper name for those is T-Nail.

Stuart


------------------------------

Message-ID: <001f01c5835f$751c2e00$80fea8c0 [at] Fred>
From: "Mike Rock" <rockm [at] new.rr.com>
References: <list-23563631 [at] prxy.net>
Subject: Ordering Lumber 
Date: Thu, 7 Jul 2005 20:50:45 -0500

 First of all the budget is tight and this is the only major set this season
and other circumstances beyond my control prohibit me from ordering a few
skids and using it all year.

I have been given the task of ordering lumber for a show and I am looking
for a few pointers. We have a large selection of boards 6 feet and under so
to get my ballpark figure I looked at the plans and counted the number of
boards greater than 6 feet, and looking at the stock of plywood determined
we would be ok save a few sheets of ¾.


I think I did that ok but what grade of lumber is suggested for flat
construction? The grading is all relative so it is hard for me to picture
the difference between #2 and #3.


------------------------------

Message-ID: <22947.69.59.200.119.1120788200.squirrel [at] webmail.peak.org>
In-Reply-To: <list-23559969 [at] prxy.net>
References: <list-23559969 [at] prxy.net>
Date: Thu, 7 Jul 2005 19:03:20 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: Re: OT-Fireworks
From: "Bill Nelson" <billn [at] peak.org>

> I'm not sure that it's be worth it.  Crowds being what they are nowadays,
> I'm not sure that I could stand the abuse.  As this is the second time the
> Rat has been suggested, I'll take it as writ that they can do a great job
> of this, and I've jsut bee unfortunate in the past.

Remember that Disney has speakers all over the place, so you don't have
the problem you would with the sound only coming from one place.

In most cases, it is probably the light bursts that should be synchronized
to the music, not the sounds of the bursts.

Bill


------------------------------

Message-ID: <22950.69.59.200.119.1120788607.squirrel [at] webmail.peak.org>
In-Reply-To: <list-23559566 [at] prxy.net>
References: <list-23535146 [at] prxy.net> <list-23536726 [at] prxy.net>
    <list-23537426 [at] prxy.net> <list-23539999 [at] prxy.net>
    <list-23543682 [at] prxy.net> <list-23548010 [at] prxy.net>
    <list-23552926 [at] prxy.net> <list-23555422 [at] prxy.net>
    <list-23559566 [at] prxy.net>
Date: Thu, 7 Jul 2005 19:10:07 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: Re: Merchant accounts?
From: "Bill Nelson" <billn [at] peak.org>

> If I set up the online account using my district purchase card, the
> district only sees a charge from PayPal only I would see the online
> accounting.  If I am honest I print out a hardcopy and submit it to the
> business office.  If I am dishonest I charge personal items to the
> account mixed in with actual purchases.  The dishonest will always have
> a way to skim money.  A good business office will limit their
> liabilities wherever they can.  Thus I won't be using the purchase card
> for PayPal.

What is to keep the district from supplying you with the Paypal account,
including password? The auditor could then look at the online records any
time they desired?

That should provide as much security as using the card elsewhere, unless
all your purchases are on POs.

Bill




------------------------------

Message-ID: <58f67b0f05070719267085587c [at] mail.gmail.com>
Date: Thu, 7 Jul 2005 22:26:16 -0400
From: Michael Powers <mptecdir [at] gmail.com>
Reply-To: Michael Powers <mptecdir [at] gmail.com>
Subject: URGENT: Build space fell through...anyone got ideas?
In-Reply-To: <list-23549645 [at] prxy.net>
References: <list-23549645 [at] prxy.net>

Hey guys, I'm Posting this for an acquaintance.  If anyone has an idea
give him a buzz.

"russell_hankin" <russell_hankin [at] yahoo.com>
Date: Thu Jul 7, 2005  12:55 pm
Subject: URGENT: Build space fell through...anyone got ideas? =09russell_ha=
nkin

Hey guys,
I'm acting as a TD for a small non-profit putting up a show with an
extremely large and complicated set.
Up until a few days ago, we had a build space lined up to kit the
set for load-in to the theater (doing the entire build in the
theatre is not an option). That space fell through.
I have been reaching out to various storefront and warehouse
property owners, real estate agents, real estate management
companies, even local merchants with basement space under their
stores. All efforts have been fruitless.

The question is this...does anyone know of any other (extremely) low-
cost options for a large space in which to build for a maximum of 5
days?
The target area is the Bronx, the load in is Monday, July 18.

Any help or fresh ideas would be most appreciated.

Thanks,
Russ

--=20
Michael

Michael Powers
413-863-4376 home
413-522-3036  cell

------------------------------

Message-ID: <42CDEE89.4050609 [at] fuse.net>
Date: Thu, 07 Jul 2005 23:10:01 -0400
From: Stuart Wheaton <sdwheaton [at] fuse.net>
Subject: Re: Where does the responsibility lie?
References: <list-23535312 [at] prxy.net> <list-23545192 [at] prxy.net>
In-Reply-To: <list-23545192 [at] prxy.net>

Bill Nelson wrote:


> So this guy wasn't an emergency body to do what he could, but a full time
> replacement? That is scary.

Bill, I believe that this was an hypothetical thrown out by 
Chris, saying 'watch how you treat the people who bail you 
out when things go south, or you might suffer greatly.'

Jason put out the first question and hasn't updated the info 
since then, almost all of this discussion is hypotheticals 
and speculation, depending on how one interprets the info in 
Jason's post,  based on your prejudices/experience/grudges/etc.
you could conclude many different things.

Stuart


------------------------------

Subject: RE: Merchant accounts?
Date: Fri, 8 Jul 2005 00:08:14 -0400
Message-ID: <B856897C0D47234483A5166273B0E8C828E976 [at] fangorn.cc.vt.edu>
From: "James, Brian" <bej [at] vt.edu>

I would imagine an institutional response to your idea, would be "we =
already have enough to track, and that is why we got the p-cards..... =
can't you get it locally or from another source?"

Also, some of the issue with pay pal might be a quality control issue. =
There are some specific polices at the institution I am at about buying =
used gear. So the PO is a great checks and balances, for their needs, =
about watching what is purchased.

Also, we are looking for logic in an institutional environment...... =
rarely do the two go hand in hand!


-----Original Message-----
From: Stagecraft [mailto:stagecraft [at] theatrical.net]On Behalf Of Bill
Nelson
Sent: Thursday, July 07, 2005 10:10 PM
To: Stagecraft
Subject: Re: Merchant accounts?


For info, archives & UNSUBSCRIBE, see <http://stagecraft.theprices.net/>
---------------------------------------------------

> If I set up the online account using my district purchase card, the
> district only sees a charge from PayPal only I would see the online
> accounting.  If I am honest I print out a hardcopy and submit it to =
the
> business office.  If I am dishonest I charge personal items to the
> account mixed in with actual purchases.  The dishonest will always =
have
> a way to skim money.  A good business office will limit their
> liabilities wherever they can.  Thus I won't be using the purchase =
card
> for PayPal.

What is to keep the district from supplying you with the Paypal account,
including password? The auditor could then look at the online records =
any
time they desired?

That should provide as much security as using the card elsewhere, unless
all your purchases are on POs.

Bill




------------------------------

Message-ID: <BAY103-F12071E9BDCD76299FE7F45DDDB0 [at] phx.gbl>
In-Reply-To: <list-23564057 [at] prxy.net>
From: "Donald Robert Fox" <dsgnrlight [at] hotmail.com>
Subject: RE: Ordering Lumber
Date: Fri, 08 Jul 2005 04:16:57 +0000

There is a software program that does all the figuring for your lumber order 
now.



------------------------------

From: "Tony Deeming" <deeming.tony [at] btinternet.com>
Subject: RE: Fire chief urges legal fireworks
Date: Fri, 8 Jul 2005 09:47:26 +0100
Message-ID: <ODEMKLAMIBKNHPJLNKDPGEDBCMAA.deeming.tony [at] btinternet.com>
In-Reply-To: <list-23563857 [at] prxy.net>



-----Original Message-----
From: Stagecraft [mailto:stagecraft [at] theatrical.net]On Behalf Of Jerry
Durand


>The TSA is mainly looking for the tracer chemical that's
>intentionally put in plastic explosives so you can detect them.  In
>the USA, everyone except the government has to add this chemical.
>That means only stuff stolen from the military or home made is hard
>to detect, if you buy it on the open marked you'll be caught.

This seems rather odd, until you consider the word 'government' is in that
statement!
Why don't they put a tracer in the govt explosive? Surely this would make it
easier to id stuff that in fact HAS been stolen from the US military if they
maybe put a different tracer chemical in.....?

Or is that just me being too logical?

Ynot




------------------------------

From: "Tony Deeming" <deeming.tony [at] btinternet.com>
Subject: RE: Fire chief urges legal fireworks
Date: Fri, 8 Jul 2005 09:55:15 +0100
Message-ID: <ODEMKLAMIBKNHPJLNKDPOEDBCMAA.deeming.tony [at] btinternet.com>
In-Reply-To: <list-23563631 [at] prxy.net>



> -----Original Message-----
> From: Stagecraft [mailto:stagecraft [at] theatrical.net]On Behalf Of
> MissWisc [at] aol.com


> Someone in my neighborhood shot off some things. Tuesday morning
> my 10 year
> old son walkd in with a handfull of
> bottle-rocket-type-only-bigger  trash that
> had fallen in our backyard. He was cleaning it up so they  could
> play. Use of
> pyro includes cleanup as well - and NOT by children.  I'll find
> out who it is
> and call the police in the future.
>

Just an observation, but just how could any company shooting off maybe
thousands of fireworks even hope to be able to locate, collect then dispose
of all the spent casings? I know we're getting a more predictable f/w effect
these days in terms of timings & direction of effect etc, but seriously -
how can you predict what happens to a rocket casing after it's done the
necessary and is falling to earth?
And would residents be at all keen to let strangers wander through their
back yards to collect them? I know I wouldn't!
So what would the police be able to do? Arrest the fireworks promoters for
wanton littering of a neighbourhood??
8-))))))))

I do know that on the UK's biggest national firework night - Guy Fawkes
Night on Nov 5 (celebrating the sad fact that Fawkes FAILED to get rid of
parliament!!!!) you get literally hundreds of rockets & other stuff in the
sky, and quite often you'll get someone else's fallout in your garden.

I have no problem with that per sei - when my kids were too young to know, I
always cleared the yard the next morning (which could have included all the
carcasses I'd set off myself the previous night). These days they're old
enough to have had the safety talk and they do the job, with due caution,
for me.

Ynot



------------------------------

End of Stagecraft Digest #451
*****************************