Return-Path: X-Scanned-By: RAE MPP/Clamd http://raeinternet.com/mpp X-Scanned-By: This message was scanned by MPP Lite Edition (www.messagepartners.com)! X-Real-To: stagecraftlist [at] theatrical.net Received: by prxy.net (CommuniGate Pro PIPE 4.2.10) with PIPE id 23984400; Mon, 01 Aug 2005 03:01:50 -0700 X-ListServer: CommuniGate Pro LIST 4.2.10 List-Unsubscribe: List-ID: Message-ID: From: "Stagecraft" Sender: "Stagecraft" To: "Stagecraft" Precedence: list Subject: Stagecraft Digest #475 Date: Mon, 01 Aug 2005 03:01:20 -0700 MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="ISO-8859-1" Content-Disposition: inline X-Spam-Level: X-Spam-Checker-Version: SpamAssassin 3.0.4 (2005-06-05) on prxy.net X-Spam-Status: No, score=-5.7 required=5.0 tests=ALL_TRUSTED,AWL,BAYES_00 autolearn=ham version=3.0.4 X-TFF-CGPSA-Version: 1.4f2 X-prxy-Spam-Filter: Scanned For info, archives & UNSUBSCRIBE, see --------------------------------------------------- Stagecraft Digest, Issue #475 1. Re: Show record photography advice by StevevETTrn [at] aol.com 2. House lighting in a small black box by Chris Rovers 3. Re: House lighting in a small black box by "Jon Ares" 4. Re: Makita Batteries by "Paul Guncheon" 5. Level stage floor by Mark O'Brien 6. Digital Camera by "Steve" 7. Re: RGB lighting by "Jonathan Rast" 8. Re: Makita Batteries by "Jim at TheatreWireless.com" 9. Re: Digital Camera by "Jon Ares" 10. Re: Digital Camera by gregg hillmar 11. Re: House lighting in a small black box by Daniel Kelly 12. Re: Digital Camera by Steve Larson 13. Re: RGB lighting by "Chris Warner" 14. Re: RGB lighting by Jerry Durand 15. Re: RGB lighting by "Chris Warner" 16. Re: RGB lighting by Jerry Durand 17. Re: Show record photography advice by "C. Dopher" 18. Re: strange light control devices by Villem Teder 19. Re: RGB lighting idea by Villem Teder 20. Re: House lighting in a small black box by "Steve B." 21. Re: House lighting in a small black box by "Alf Sauve" 22. Large scale model semi by "Sam Fisher" 23. Re: Digital Camera by Kyle Schoenfeld 24. Re: House lighting in a small black box by Chris Rovers 25. Follow spot repeat... by "Steve Jones" 26. Re: House lighting in a small black box by Dale Farmer 27. visualization by "Christopher K. Nimm" *** Please update the subject line of your reply to use the subject *** line of the message you are replying to! Please only reply to *** one message subject in each reply. ---------------------------------------------------------------------- From: StevevETTrn [at] aol.com Message-ID: <158.55b597d8.301e1e9a [at] aol.com> Date: Sun, 31 Jul 2005 08:31:22 EDT Subject: Re: Show record photography advice tom g writes: >using Eastman color negative film (lately ECN 5279) for my film. >RGB in Hollywood has closed down. I still have 4 rolls of the film left. Sorry to hear that RGB finally closed down. I used to use them, extensively, in the 70's and 80's. Loved the precise nature of the film stock. Did not have the built-in "beauty" fudge factor of Kodachrome/Kodacolor. I expect that was due to it's primary market being cinematographers. Even though I haven't taken out my 35mm cameras for nearly 15 years, I think there is still a handful of RGB rolls in the back of the refrigerator. With digital media bent on world domination, I'm finally looking for a high quality, not overly time consuming, and cost effective method for transferring my 6000+ RGB negative images to digital storage. (Yes, I do want fast, cheap AND good, pick all three.) Anyone have a line on a spool feed negative scanner and a capture program that can accommodate the Eastman Color Negative curves? Steve Vanciel Orlando, FL ------------------------------ Message-ID: Date: Sun, 31 Jul 2005 12:16:15 -0400 From: Chris Rovers Reply-To: Chris Rovers Subject: House lighting in a small black box Hi, all Some of you may remember, I'm rebuilding a fire damaged black box theatre on a shoestring budget. We were originally planning on re-using the old house lighting (which were just old factory pendant lights, because the space used to be a factory), but it looks like they were more damaged then we originally thought. It may be easiest just to look at new houselights rather then refurb things that weren't ideal in the first place. So... if the big factor was budget, what would you use to light a 35' x 35' black box space, 18 feet tall, grid about 16'. The building will be black inside, if that makes a different (I just primed the wall - sort of amusing having a 'white box space', but that'll change) Our requirements are basically just being dimmable and capable of lighting the space. We'd like to run them using a channel from our dimmer pack (1 of 24), controlled by the lighting board (Ideally, we'd have a remote switch near a door, but budget prevents that from happening right away). Ideally, they would be mountable at grid height or just above, so we don't have to dodge them with our scaffolding when we're hanging lights. Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated. If anyone has any donations or hints at grants or other money sources, too, even more so (Waterloo, Ontario, Canada) - we can do Canadian tax receipts, heck, we'll name the theatre after you if you donate enough - we're not proud :) Thanks very much Chris ------------------------------ Message-ID: <001201c595f9$53a9cf00$0600000a [at] BRUTUS> From: "Jon Ares" Cc: crovers [at] gmail.com (Chris Rovers) References: Subject: Re: House lighting in a small black box Date: Sun, 31 Jul 2005 10:57:33 -0700 > So... if the big factor was budget, what would you use to light a 35' > x 35' black box space, 18 feet tall, grid about 16'. Here's what I did... when I was outfitting our (old, no longer in existence) black box space, I just picked up about 6 fixtures like this one http://www.lightinguniverse.com/products/view.aspx?family=4764 - simple pendants - but we paid maybe $20 USD each for them. I think they were dark green on the top, but no one could tell the difference, because it's dark up there. :) The important thing for us was that we wanted to be able to move/rearrange the house lighting as the seating/staging arrangement was flexible. We hung the fixtures from the grid as needed (and safetied) - and the lamps were (I think) 100w clear A-style bulbs. We liked the warmth of the lamps for houselights. You can also use globe-style lamps, if you think people will be looking at the fixtures. You might luck out and find some industrial supply type place with these really cheap... but they might have mogul-sized sockets (which you can stick an adapter in it to medium). This is assuming you want to go with a little of the 'industrial' look you used to have. - Jon Ares www.hevanet.com/acreative ------------------------------ Date: Sun, 31 Jul 2005 08:36:53 -1000 From: "Paul Guncheon" Subject: Re: Makita Batteries Message-id: <000e01c595fe$d33c8dc0$c6354104 [at] yourxhtr8hvc4p> References: << That sounds like you got a bad batch of batteries in. Call makita tech support and relate your problems to them. They should figure out the bad lot of batteries and replace them with good ones. Did you buy this whole batch at once, or all from the same supplier over a short period of time? The only other possibility is that one of your tools has something broken about it that is killing the batteries.>> The batteries were purchased over a period of time (over a year) from a variety of vendors. They are used in a variety of tools. The 1235 F batteries are no good and simply not worth the $150.00 +/- MSRP. They are not worth $10.00 in my opinion. I have talked to the Makita rep in person and he promised me (and someone else) to replace my batteries. I will now contact him again (which I truly expected I would have to do) to "remind" him of his promise. Laters, Paul "I'm wearing my wedding ring", said Tom with abandon. ------------------------------ In-Reply-To: References:

Message-Id: Cc: marko [at] email.arizona.edu (Mark O'Brien) From: Mark O'Brien Subject: Level stage floor Date: Sun, 31 Jul 2005 11:43:52 -0700 Greetings, Recently we contracted a company to replace the fir flooring of our stage with maple. (The shell towers were shredding the pine) Although most of the floor is as flat and level as possible, they seem to have a problem with the joint at the pit. They decided to use the original trim, on the upstage edge of the lift, and the flooring they put down on the lift was 1/8 to 1/4 of an inch proud of that trim. We parked the pit so that that stage floor level with the piece of trim on the upstage side of the pit lift. Their solution was to use an 8" sander to make the new floor on the pit flush with the US trim on the pit. That leaves a 0- 3/16 slope about 8" DS of the joint between the stage and the lift. I find this unacceptable, the Facilities management people tend to agree, and even the General contractor is nodding his head. The floor guy says it is ok, (something about within ADA standards) I say it looks like butt, and we should not sign off on it. Opinions please. E-mail me off list for a photo. Thanks, Mark-O Mark O'Brien Opera Technical Director University of Arizona, School of Music Tucson, AZ 520/621-7025 520/591-1803 Mobile ------------------------------ Message-ID: <000701c59606$eff4b890$5d7e7244 [at] D78YGH41> From: "Steve" Subject: Digital Camera Date: Sun, 31 Jul 2005 14:34:56 -0500 Greetings, With all this talk about photography, I want to buy a new digital camera. I have about $1000.00. Do I need to spend more? I want it for my portfolio and archiving. What do I want to buy? Thanks, Steve Schepker Southeastern Louisiana University ------------------------------ Message-ID: In-Reply-To: From: "Jonathan Rast" Subject: Re: RGB lighting Date: Sun, 31 Jul 2005 15:39:01 -0400 Chris- The usual suspects for tiny electronic parts should work - Arrow, Digikey, etc. Jonathan Rast >Anybody know of a source from DLP or other LCD chips? TI's website doesn't >have a single blip on it about sources. ------------------------------ From: "Jim at TheatreWireless.com" Subject: RE: Makita Batteries Date: Sun, 31 Jul 2005 15:39:29 -0400 In-Reply-To: Message-Id: <20050731193935.OSWT21470.tomts22-srv.bellnexxia.net [at] p3m866> Is there any chance you are charging NiMH batteries on NiCad chargers? Jim ------------------------------ Message-ID: <000701c59608$7f2604f0$0600000a [at] BRUTUS> From: "Jon Ares" References: Subject: Re: Digital Camera Date: Sun, 31 Jul 2005 12:46:08 -0700 > With all this talk about photography, I want to buy a new digital camera. > I have about $1000.00. > Do I need to spend more? > I want it for my portfolio and archiving. > What do I want to buy? Hi Steve - check out the Canon Digital Rebel - I have one, and others on here have mentioned it as well. The kit price (with a lens) is less than $1000, and the lens is ok, but doesn't have a very wide aperture. You might want to consider getting the body only ($800?) and a better lens, but you might not stay under $1000. - Jon Ares www.hevanet.com/acreative ------------------------------ In-Reply-To: References: Message-Id: From: gregg hillmar Subject: Re: Digital Camera Date: Sun, 31 Jul 2005 16:04:54 -0400 Hey Steve, I bought the Nikon D70 rather than the Canon Rebel others have mentioned. Main reason was access to other Nikon lenses- while both are available with a standard lens, you are better off just buying the body and getting a better lens. I had Nikon lenses, so that made sense to me. The other issue was the the body of the Nikon FELT better to me- it is a little heavier and seemed not quite as flimsy as the Canon. I borrowed one of each and used them for a weekend, and I liked the pictures from the Nikon better, and access to the controls seemed more logical to me. I also talked to my local independent camera store for their suggestions- they have been developing my slides for years, so they know what I shoot and had very good advice. I bought my camera from them when I got it- maybe $100 difference from cheapest web price before shipping, but I get good support, suggestions, and repair right around the corner- it seemed worth it... Price was around $800 for the body only, or just over $1000 for body & stock lens. HTH g. _____________________ gregg hillmar scenic & lighting design portfolio & life as we know it: http://www.hillmardesign.com "Work like you don't need the money. Love like you've never been hurt. Dance like no one's watching." Satchel Paige On Jul 31, 2005, at 3:34 PM, Steve wrote: > For info, archives & UNSUBSCRIBE, see stagecraft.theprices.net/> > --------------------------------------------------- > > Greetings, > With all this talk about photography, I want to buy a new digital > camera. > I have about $1000.00. > Do I need to spend more? > I want it for my portfolio and archiving. > What do I want to buy? > Thanks, > Steve Schepker > Southeastern Louisiana University > ------------------------------ Message-ID: Date: Sun, 31 Jul 2005 16:17:13 -0400 From: Daniel Kelly Reply-To: Daniel Kelly Cc: crovers [at] gmail.com (Chris Rovers) Subject: Re: House lighting in a small black box In-Reply-To: References: I would think that fire and/or electrical regulations might conflict with houselights being connected to a transient system. Maybe if you had worklights that were controllable by wall switches at each exit, this wouldn't be a problem, but I'm not chapter-and-verse with the regs. I would use eight quartz floodlights as seen here: http://www.prolighting.com/creeqx500l.html I'd wash the seating areas from as directly above the areas as you can mount them. They would be hardwired and mounted into junction boxes, the wiring would run in EMT, and they would be controlled from 2-way dimmer switches - a gang in the booth, and a gang at the door. I'm not sure of how you use your space, but if you need more flexibility than that, I'd use the same type of fixtures, only mounted into a standard single-gang "handybox" as seen here: http://tinyurl.com/afvrf On the opposite end of the box, I would mount a C clamp, wire a pigtail out the back, and cover it up with a blank. Then you use them with your existing dimmer rack... *but* I'd strongly recommend having an alternate means of throwing down a bunch of light in an emergency, i.e. banks of flourescent worklights with wall switches in multiple locations. Hell, if the theatre's name is up for grabs, I wouldn't mind taking a roadtrip up there to do the installation. That'd be something neat to brag about. ;-) -- Daniel J. Kelly Philadelphia, PA, USA > Our requirements are basically just being dimmable and capable=20 > of lighting the space. We'd like to run them using a channel=20 > from our dimmer pack (1 of 24), controlled by the lighting board=20 > (Ideally, we'd have a remote switch near a door, but budget=20 > prevents that from happening right away). ------------------------------ Date: Sun, 31 Jul 2005 16:16:24 -0400 Subject: Re: Digital Camera From: Steve Larson Message-ID: In-Reply-To: I agree with your thoughts. I too had been using Nikon for several years and had all the lenses. Definitely do some research online, especially if you are going to buy on line. Make sure that all the factory accessories are included in the deal and are not extras. PriceGrabber and some of the other comparison sites are very helpful. You can also check on shipping at these sites and compare. It's amazing how much some of these folks want for shipping while others will often include the shipping. Once you have narrowed down the suppliers, call them and tell them weat you are doing. They might drop their price even more or throw in the shipping, just to get the deal. Steve > From: gregg hillmar > I bought the Nikon D70 rather than the Canon Rebel others have > mentioned. Main reason was access to other Nikon lenses- while both > are available with a standard lens, you are better off just buying > the body and getting a better lens. I had Nikon lenses, so that made > sense to me. ------------------------------ Message-ID: <008001c5960e$37325080$6401a8c0 [at] chris> From: "Chris Warner" References: Subject: Re: RGB lighting Date: Sun, 31 Jul 2005 13:27:04 -0700 Found distributor, but without some MAJOR funding, I can't make it happen, the DLP chips, including the DMD and drivers are 2700-6000 dollars a set! Might have to put that one aside for a while. Chris ----- Original Message ----- From: "Jonathan Rast" To: "Stagecraft" Sent: Sunday, July 31, 2005 12:39 PM Subject: Re: RGB lighting > For info, archives & UNSUBSCRIBE, see > --------------------------------------------------- > > Chris- > The usual suspects for tiny electronic parts should work - Arrow, Digikey, > etc. > > Jonathan Rast > > > >Anybody know of a source from DLP or other LCD chips? TI's website doesn't > >have a single blip on it about sources. > > > > > -- > No virus found in this incoming message. > Checked by AVG Anti-Virus. > Version: 7.0.338 / Virus Database: 267.9.7/60 - Release Date: 7/28/2005 > > -- No virus found in this outgoing message. Checked by AVG Anti-Virus. Version: 7.0.338 / Virus Database: 267.9.7/60 - Release Date: 7/28/2005 ------------------------------ Message-Id: <6.2.3.4.0.20050731132512.029f4428 [at] 192.168.0.13> Date: Sun, 31 Jul 2005 13:26:49 -0700 From: Jerry Durand Subject: Re: RGB lighting In-Reply-To: References:

At 01:27 PM 7/31/2005, you wrote: >Found distributor, but without some MAJOR funding, I can't make it happen, >the DLP chips, including the DMD and drivers are 2700-6000 dollars a set! >Might have to put that one aside for a while. > >Chris > I should be hearing back from my TI contact early in the week. Remember, we can use "seconds" for this and I might be able to swing something for proto use. Still have to control it, too. -- Jerry Durand Durand Interstellar, Inc. 219 Oak Wood Way Los Gatos, California 95032-2523 USA tel: +1 408 356-3886, USA toll free: 1 866 356-3886 web: www.interstellar.com ------------------------------ Message-ID: <00b501c59613$521a5690$6401a8c0 [at] chris> From: "Chris Warner" References:

Subject: Re: RGB lighting Date: Sun, 31 Jul 2005 14:03:37 -0700 PIC Micro's are cheap, but ATMEL's aren't too bad either, could use ETRAX which run a linux variant. Lots of options on that front. Chris ----- Original Message ----- From: "Jerry Durand" To: "Stagecraft" Sent: Sunday, July 31, 2005 1:26 PM Subject: Re: RGB lighting > For info, archives & UNSUBSCRIBE, see > --------------------------------------------------- > > At 01:27 PM 7/31/2005, you wrote: > >Found distributor, but without some MAJOR funding, I can't make it happen, > >the DLP chips, including the DMD and drivers are 2700-6000 dollars a set! > >Might have to put that one aside for a while. > > > >Chris > > > > > I should be hearing back from my TI contact early in the > week. Remember, we can use "seconds" for this and I might be able to > swing something for proto use. Still have to control it, too. > > > -- > Jerry Durand > Durand Interstellar, Inc. > 219 Oak Wood Way > Los Gatos, California 95032-2523 USA > tel: +1 408 356-3886, USA toll free: 1 866 356-3886 > web: www.interstellar.com > > > > > -- > No virus found in this incoming message. > Checked by AVG Anti-Virus. > Version: 7.0.338 / Virus Database: 267.9.7/60 - Release Date: 7/28/2005 > > -- No virus found in this outgoing message. Checked by AVG Anti-Virus. Version: 7.0.338 / Virus Database: 267.9.7/60 - Release Date: 7/28/2005 ------------------------------ Message-Id: <6.2.3.4.0.20050731140004.054c1ad8 [at] 192.168.0.13> Date: Sun, 31 Jul 2005 14:09:24 -0700 From: Jerry Durand Subject: Re: RGB lighting In-Reply-To: References:

At 02:03 PM 7/31/2005, you wrote: >PIC Micro's are cheap, but ATMEL's aren't too bad either, could use ETRAX >which run a linux variant. Lots of options on that front. I was thinking more of the support circuitry around the chip. I don't know what the interface is, but I would bet it's non-trivial (like SMPTE-259M). -- Jerry Durand Durand Interstellar, Inc. 219 Oak Wood Way Los Gatos, California 95032-2523 USA tel: +1 408 356-3886, USA toll free: 1 866 356-3886 web: www.interstellar.com ------------------------------ Date: Sun, 31 Jul 2005 17:50:20 -0400 Subject: Re: Show record photography advice From: "C. Dopher" Message-ID: In-Reply-To: On 7/30/05 9:02 AM, "Steve Larson" wrote: > I'm far enough into my career that the portfolio > doesn't matter any more. I've run out of room > to store things anyway. I shoot theatre photos > for our archives. I shoot outside the theatre > to sell and display. Now THAT's a good reason to photoshop! When selling yourself, honesty is a virtue...but when just trying to sell seats, seduce! I'm all with you on that. > Neither one of us is so good at lighting that > we can light the scene perfectly where a camera > using digital or film can take the perfect picture. True. But I trust that the pictures I show someone will be the best shots I could get and that the viewer will understand to at least some extent that what the camera records is not as subtle as what the eye can see. Cris Dopher ------------------------------ Message-Id: <3.0.6.32.20050731190747.0080e360 [at] mail.interlog.com> Date: Sun, 31 Jul 2005 19:07:47 -0400 From: Villem Teder Subject: Re: strange light control devices At 03:00 AM 7/31/05 -0700, you wrote: >Date: Sat, 30 Jul 2005 10:55:44 -0700 >From: Jerry Durand >Subject: strange light control devices > >Another thought just occurred to me while reading about PBG crystals >(think of a tiny filter that can be turned on and off) at >http://www.external.ameslab.gov/final/News/2005rel/tallcrystals.htm > >Anyway, how about this: > >Take an optically flat, reflective, conductive surface (first surface >metal mirror); > >Coat it with a THIN layer of a clear, non-conductive, compressible compound; > >Coat that with an even thinner layer of a conductor (like used on LCDs). > >Now, bounce light off this, you have a dichroic filter. > >Apply a DC voltage between the two conductors and the top layer will >be attracted to the mirror, compressing the stuff in the middle...the >color of the filter just changed. > >The center compressible stuff could be standoffs, too. Think tiny >springs. Bucky tubes? > >-- >Jerry Durand >Durand Interstellar, Inc. >219 Oak Wood Way >Los Gatos, California 95032-2523 USA >tel: +1 408 356-3886, USA toll free: 1 866 356-3886 >web: www.interstellar.com > Well, if the amount of compression could be varied in a (somewhat) linear fashion, would the result be a variable colour filter? And over what range of colours, and fine adifference between colours? Sounds interesting. Regards, Villem Teder Toronto ------------------------------ Message-Id: <3.0.6.32.20050731192847.0080d8e0 [at] mail.interlog.com> Date: Sun, 31 Jul 2005 19:28:47 -0400 From: Villem Teder Subject: Re: RGB lighting idea At 03:00 AM 7/31/05 -0700, you wrote: > >Yes, VL was working on digital gobos. May still be, FAIK. Having a drop-in >digital gobo for Source 4, controllable from software running on any given >platform, and triggered by a MIDI or DMX signal... Now that's be the >squirrel's nuts right there! > >Cris Dopher > They might still be. The biggest enemy of LCD panels is heat. Eliminate the heat from the gate, and all sorts of effects could be created much easier. While a drop-in digital gobo could work if the heat were dealt with, the bigger problem would be the contrast ratio. You would not get total blocking of the light for black. Instead it would be a shade of gray as is seen in LCD video projectors. And, since a digital gobo is essentially the heart of a video projector, by the time you are done, it might just look like High End's DL-1, which goes along with their Catalyst Media Server, to create the content. I vaguely remember seeing a notice for an LCD panel that was designed to drop into the gate of a Kodak slide projector. It claimed B&W, at 640 X 480. Not sure if it ever became a real product. The other device that could be used are LCD panels meant for use on over head projectors. These would have to built to withstand a lot of heat. In fact that is probably what Pani offers as their "E-Slide" attachement. Has anyone seen one in use? Regards, Villem Teder Toronto ------------------------------ Date: Sun, 31 Jul 2005 20:49:47 -0400 From: "Steve B." Subject: Re: House lighting in a small black box Cc: limeking [at] gmail.com (Daniel Kelly) Message-id: <002501c59632$eac1fc80$6401a8c0 [at] SBFF> References:

----- Original Message ----- From: "Daniel Kelly" > I would think that fire and/or electrical regulations might conflict > with houselights being connected to a transient system. Maybe if you > had worklights that were controllable by wall switches at each exit, > this wouldn't be a problem, but I'm not chapter-and-verse with the > regs. Can't say for the assorted local variations, but my understanding of the US Nat'l code (electrical) allows transient/temp house lighting as long as a separate emergency system exists - battery operated, generator, etc... SB ------------------------------ Message-ID: <017801c59635$341a7770$0400a8c0 [at] ALFOFFICE> Reply-To: "Alf Sauve" From: "Alf Sauve" Subject: Re: House lighting in a small black box Date: Sun, 31 Jul 2005 21:05:49 -0400 A couple of comments, All (and I mean ALL) the lights in our main auditorium are on the dimming system (192channels), there are no separate emergency lights. However, six channels from the rack pass through a relay (contactor) box that is activated when power is lost. These circuits are then powered by the emergency system along with select architectural lighting throughout the building. Jurisdictions may vary and other places may not find this acceptable. I vote for separate, very bright work lights, more for.....well......work than anything else. On another note, there is black primer, which in many applications of black doesn't even need to be painted over. One coat does it all. It's also harder to tell, when painting with dark colours where you missed little spots. (That could be a negative if you're a perfectionist.) Alf Storyteller > ----- Original Message ----- > From: "Daniel Kelly" > To: "Stagecraft" > Cc: "Chris Rovers" > Sent: Sunday, July 31, 2005 4:17 PM > Subject: Re: House lighting in a small black box > > > For info, archives & UNSUBSCRIBE, see > --------------------------------------------------- > > I would think that fire and/or electrical regulations might conflict > with houselights being connected to a transient system. Maybe if you > had worklights that were controllable by wall switches at each exit, > this wouldn't be a problem, but I'm not chapter-and-verse with the > regs. > > I would use eight quartz floodlights as seen here: > http://www.prolighting.com/creeqx500l.html > I'd wash the seating areas from as directly above the areas as you can > mount them. They would be hardwired and mounted into junction boxes, > the wiring would run in EMT, and they would be controlled from 2-way > dimmer switches - a gang in the booth, and a gang at the door. > > I'm not sure of how you use your space, but if you need more > flexibility than that, I'd use the same type of fixtures, only mounted > into a standard single-gang "handybox" as seen here: > http://tinyurl.com/afvrf > On the opposite end of the box, I would mount a C clamp, wire a > pigtail out the back, and cover it up with a blank. Then you use them > with your existing dimmer rack... *but* I'd strongly recommend having > an alternate means of throwing down a bunch of light in an emergency, > i.e. banks of flourescent worklights with wall switches in multiple > locations. Hell, if the theatre's name is up for grabs, I wouldn't > mind taking a roadtrip up there to do the installation. That'd be > something neat to brag about. ;-) > > -- > Daniel J. Kelly > Philadelphia, PA, USA > >> Our requirements are basically just being dimmable and capable >> of lighting the space. We'd like to run them using a channel >> from our dimmer pack (1 of 24), controlled by the lighting board >> (Ideally, we'd have a remote switch near a door, but budget >> prevents that from happening right away). > ------------------------------ From: "Sam Fisher" Cc: alf.sauve [at] mindspring.com ('Alf Sauve') Subject: Large scale model semi Date: Sun, 31 Jul 2005 22:11:35 -0400 In-Reply-To: Message-ID: I'm looking for a semi tractor in the neighborhood of 10 feet long. It doesn't need to do anything special, just look good and sit on a show floor first week of November. Any ideas on a source? Sam Fisher VP - Fisher Theatrical, LLC. ------------------------------ Message-ID: <6ff650f050731193011596cb8 [at] mail.gmail.com> Date: Sun, 31 Jul 2005 22:30:32 -0400 From: Kyle Schoenfeld Reply-To: Kyle Schoenfeld Subject: Re: Digital Camera In-Reply-To: References:

Just a quick site thats good for reference- www.dpreview.com They have reviews and specs on almost all of the digital cameras out there, and a pretty good search engine to match the specs you want to the cameras that have them. --Kyle Schoenfeld ------------------------------ Message-ID: Date: Sun, 31 Jul 2005 23:46:38 -0400 From: Chris Rovers Reply-To: Chris Rovers Cc: alf.sauve [at] mindspring.com (Alf Sauve) Subject: Re: House lighting in a small black box In-Reply-To: References: > All (and I mean ALL) the lights in our main auditorium are on the dimming > system (192channels), there are no separate emergency lights. However, s= ix > channels from the rack pass through a relay (contactor) box that is > activated when power is lost. These circuits are then powered by the > emergency system along with select architectural lighting throughout the > building. Jurisdictions may vary and other places may not find this > acceptable. I've got a copy of the building code for Ontario and I'll double check, as well as talk to the inspector, see what he expects - but my understanding is that our battery powered backups will be sufficient.=20 We will probably retrofit work lights when we can afford 'em - till then, it'll be dimmable houselights and battery powered emergency lights. =20 > On another note, there is black primer, which in many applications of bla= ck > doesn't even need to be painted over. One coat does it all. It's also > harder to tell, when painting with dark colours where you missed little > spots. (That could be a negative if you're a perfectionist.) The theatre was smoke, water and soot damaged - we needed a primer that would seal in the smell. The primer we were recommended was B*I*N Stainkiller (shellac based primer) and the people at the paint store recommended we didn't tint it for maximum adhesion (we powerwashed first, but even powerwashing only does so much) Thanks for the comments! Chris ------------------------------ From: "Steve Jones" Subject: Follow spot repeat... Date: Sun, 31 Jul 2005 23:20:13 -0500 Organization: Plaza Theatre In-Reply-To: Message-ID: Now that life has slowed down a bit here, let me repeat a question I asked several months ago and am just getting back around to dealing with. Our theatre is looking to purchase 2 followspots. They need to have a max usuable throw of 150 feet and operate off of 120 AC and run as quiet as possible. Any hands on input would be appreciated. Thanks! Steve ************************************* Steve Jones, Director Plaza Theatre 115 E. Main Street Glasgow, KY 42141 Voice: (270) 361-2101 Fax: (270) 651-2511 http://www.glasgowplazatheatre.org ------------------------------ Message-ID: <42EDB067.8980D3D2 [at] cybercom.net> Date: Mon, 01 Aug 2005 01:17:27 -0400 From: Dale Farmer Organization: The fuzz in the back of the fridge. Subject: Re: House lighting in a small black box References: Chris Rovers wrote: > For info, archives & UNSUBSCRIBE, see > --------------------------------------------------- > > Hi, all > > Some of you may remember, I'm rebuilding a fire damaged black box > theatre on a shoestring budget. We were originally planning on > re-using the old house lighting (which were just old factory pendant > lights, because the space used to be a factory), but it looks like > they were more damaged then we originally thought. It may be easiest > just to look at new houselights rather then refurb things that weren't > ideal in the first place. > > So... if the big factor was budget, what would you use to light a 35' > x 35' black box space, 18 feet tall, grid about 16'. The building > will be black inside, if that makes a different (I just primed the > wall - sort of amusing having a 'white box space', but that'll change) > > Our requirements are basically just being dimmable and capable of > lighting the space. We'd like to run them using a channel from our > dimmer pack (1 of 24), controlled by the lighting board (Ideally, we'd > have a remote switch near a door, but budget prevents that from > happening right away). Ideally, they would be mountable at grid > height or just above, so we don't have to dodge them with our > scaffolding when we're hanging lights. I'd go with a combination of lights. You have three conditions that require house lights in a black box. Performance state. Wants to be dimmable, and relocatable to conform to the flexible nature of a black box space. A couple of good candidates have been mentioned already. Working state. These are the lights that are going to be used in there most of the time. Energy efficiency is important. I'd go with a full spectrum metal halide fixture, permanently installed. Probably go with them on a 15 foot grid pattern. Because it is a black painted space, you will generally want a lot of lumens from these. Emergency lights. Not metal halides, due to the strike time delay. Don't have to be pretty, hooked up to fire alarm, emergency power, etc., check with local building codes. Inexpensive quartz flood lights work, and they can be installed above the grid. --Dale ------------------------------ Message-ID: <000801c5966b$4be6c850$6701a8c0 [at] tamiasuis> From: "Christopher K. Nimm" References:

Subject: visualization Date: Mon, 1 Aug 2005 02:33:19 -0500 Has anyone ever tried to use the visualization feature of Windows Media Player (or something comparable) to complement onstage music during either a dance or musical performance? If so, how'd was it done? Could it be used with live music? Is it legal? Chris Nimm ------------------------------ End of Stagecraft Digest #475 *****************************