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X-Real-To: stagecraftlist [at] theatrical.net Received: by prxy.net (CommuniGate Pro PIPE 4.2.10) with PIPE id 25002803; Sun, 09 Oct 2005 03:01:51 -0700 X-ListServer: CommuniGate Pro LIST 4.2.10 List-Unsubscribe: List-ID: Message-ID: From: "Stagecraft" Sender: "Stagecraft" To: "Stagecraft" Precedence: list Subject: Stagecraft Digest #544 Date: Sun, 09 Oct 2005 03:01:09 -0700 MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="ISO-8859-1" Content-Disposition: inline X-Spam-Checker-Version: SpamAssassin 3.0.4 (2005-06-05) on prxy.net X-Spam-Level: X-Spam-Status: No, score=-5.7 required=5.0 tests=ALL_TRUSTED,AWL,BAYES_00 autolearn=unavailable version=3.0.4 X-TFF-CGPSA-Version: 1.4f2 X-prxy-Spam-Filter: Scanned For info, archives & UNSUBSCRIBE, see --------------------------------------------------- Stagecraft Digest, Issue #544 1. puzzles as criterion by Judy 2. Re: puzzles as criterion by Charlie Richmond 3. Re: Pocket hole report by "Jon Ares" 4. Subject: RE: fire curtain laws by "Bill Conner" 5. Re: good students... by "Paul Guncheon" 6. Good by b Ricie 7. Good Students by b Ricie 8. Re: Pocket hole report by Paul Schreiner 9. Re: Pocket hole report by FrankWood95 [at] aol.com 10. Re: Hard edge on Legs by IAEG [at] aol.com 11. Re: Hard edge on Legs by Brian Munroe 12. Re: Pocket hole report by Brian Munroe 13. Re: Pocket hole report by Michael Drury 14. Best Stage Management Book by "Jonathan S. Deull" 15. Airless Paint Sprayers by Patrick Immel 16. Fly system models by Patrick Immel 17. Re: Fly system models by "RD" 18. Parallels (folding platforms) available FREE to school, church, etc. by William McLachlan 19. Re: Fly system models by Delbert Hall 20. Re: Airless Paint Sprayers by John McKernon *** Please update the subject line of your reply to use the subject *** line of the message you are replying to! Please only reply to *** one message subject in each reply. ---------------------------------------------------------------------- Message-ID: <4347AD64.70907 [at] post.tau.ac.il> Date: Sat, 08 Oct 2005 13:28:36 +0200 From: Judy Subject: puzzles as criterion > > >In my limited experience, I have found the the folks >who excel at puzzles tend to make good stagehands. > I'm terrible at puzzles, and I've never won a game in my whole life, and I was considered a terrific technician! It's because the puzzles always seemed to be a waste of time and a trap to show me up, whereas the problems on stage seemed important and really needed solving. So maybe there are some students out there like me? (ps - I did work a lot without getting credit or pay....) ------------------------------ Date: Sat, 8 Oct 2005 11:37:05 +0100 (BST) From: Charlie Richmond Subject: Re: puzzles as criterion In-Reply-To: Message-ID: References: On Sat, 8 Oct 2005, Judy wrote: >> In my limited experience, I have found the the folks >> who excel at puzzles tend to make good stagehands. > I'm terrible at puzzles, and I've never won a game in my whole life, and I > was considered a terrific technician! It's because the puzzles always seemed > to be a waste of time and a trap to show me up, whereas the problems on stage > seemed important and really needed solving. So maybe there are some students > out there like me? Most likely.... I think your example certainly proves that you don't have to good at puzzles to be a good stagehand but of course does not disprove the premise that folks who excel at puzzles make good stagehands. I suspect we won't be able to disprove it here but might be able to on a puzzlewizard list ;-) Charlie ------------------------------ Message-ID: <003701c5cc0b$882c7a50$0600000a [at] BRUTUS> From: "Jon Ares" Cc: daveffreep [at] gmail.com (David Carrico) References: Subject: Re: Pocket hole report Date: Sat, 8 Oct 2005 06:23:55 -0700 > previously. How 'standard' are your flats? Are we talking 1x3 > framing? Or something thicker, like 5/4? Hard-covered or soft or > both? My question to add to the list: what wood are you using for your standard flats with pocket holes? - Jon Ares www.hevanet.com/acreative ------------------------------ Message-ID: <001f01c5cc0e$f5929540$6601a8c0 [at] BCA1> Reply-To: "Bill Conner" From: "Bill Conner" Subject: Subject: RE: fire curtain laws Date: Sat, 8 Oct 2005 08:48:26 -0500 Doom posted: "The reasoning is that the only professional fire fighters should use hoses, because they know how. Hoses are very powerful and dangerous." So if the local crew is, say 30% fire service, do you allow hoses? Bill ------------------------------ Date: Sat, 08 Oct 2005 03:49:47 -1000 From: "Paul Guncheon" Subject: Re: good students... Message-id: <003b01c5cc0f$263991d0$1e8aea48 [at] yourxhtr8hvc4p> References: <> Well... there are some that come close though. Consider what I call the Mom and Dad questions: "Where do you think you're going at this looking like that?" "Where do you think you're going dressed like that?" "Who do you think you are?" "What do you think you're doing?" "Who do you think you're talking to?" "Do I look like a (insert profession here... doctor, engineer, plumber, etc.)?" "Were you born in a barn?" "If your friends jumped off a cliff, would you too?"\ "Is that too much to ask?" Any one else have some of these questions. I would like to compile a list. Laters, Paul "We've just had our first baby" said Tom apparently. ------------------------------ Message-ID: <20051008151329.91333.qmail [at] web50609.mail.yahoo.com> Date: Sat, 8 Oct 2005 08:13:29 -0700 (PDT) From: b Ricie Subject: Good In-Reply-To: __________________________________ Yahoo! Music Unlimited Access over 1 million songs. Try it free. http://music.yahoo.com/unlimited/ ------------------------------ Message-ID: <20051008152036.42184.qmail [at] web50608.mail.yahoo.com> Date: Sat, 8 Oct 2005 08:20:36 -0700 (PDT) From: b Ricie Subject: Good Students In-Reply-To: How about "A students education is only as good as the instructors teaching." Yes, I agree the student needs to take responsibility for their education...But...What about the responsibility of the instructor to make sure they "GET IT". Things that make perfect sense to the seasoned vet. might be very abstract to someone being introduced to it for the first time. If they keep asking the same question over and over, then someone has not done their job. Brian Rice 508-685-0716 b_ricie [at] yahoo.com "Blessed are the cracked: For it is they who let in the light." __________________________________ Yahoo! Mail - PC Magazine Editors' Choice 2005 http://mail.yahoo.com ------------------------------ Message-ID: Date: Sat, 8 Oct 2005 11:21:06 -0400 From: Paul Schreiner Subject: Re: Pocket hole report In-Reply-To: References: > My question to add to the list: what wood are you using for your standard > flats with pocket holes? Basic lumber...just #2 pine. I think it's mildly important to note that I'm also using McFeely's pocket hole screws rather than the standard-issue bugle head screws I use for everything else. ------------------------------ From: FrankWood95 [at] aol.com Message-ID: <1e5.4649290d.30795a6d [at] aol.com> Date: Sat, 8 Oct 2005 13:22:53 EDT Subject: Re: Pocket hole report In a message dated 08/10/05 01:23:01 GMT Daylight Time, bpmunroe [at] gmail.com writes: > Pocket hole joints are pretty much fancy toe-screws. They are made > with a jig that aligns that peices to be joined and drills an angled > pilot hole and countersink. Thanks for the help. This raises another question: what are toe-screws? Frank Wood ------------------------------ From: IAEG [at] aol.com Message-ID: <216.aee5d3a.307980ab [at] aol.com> Date: Sat, 8 Oct 2005 16:06:03 EDT Subject: Re: Hard edge on Legs In a message dated 10/8/05 2:39:26 AM, jeanburch_td [at] yahoo.com writes: << Greetings For an upcoming show, I need to create hard edges on velour legs. I have done this a number of ways in the past, But I thought I would look to the wisdom of the list for some possible ideas I haven't used or thought of. Thanks in advance, Jean Burch >> well, , the 19th Century way, , is to have a wood strip in the leg as "bottom pipe" and nail the sucker to the floor and then tension the hemp system to make them nice and "crisp" ( for those of you who have never hung a 19th century style soft leg / border / cut drop / back drop opera or ballet in a 19th Century house with wooden battens and hemp and a crew used to doing it, , you would be amazed at how fast and efficient this method is and how good it can look, ,the hemp allows the fabric to be "tweaked" and stretched out evenly ) my favorite way is to not use soft goods at all, , but black velour covered flats A number of ballet companies / opera companies use long skinny sand bags ( easier on toes when they are eventually hit ) some companies ( and I seldom do this except in very special and safe circumstances ) use stage weights I usually find that a single fold back on the on stage edge of the lef makes for a better edge than letting the "raw" ( although hemmed ) edge of the fabric hang. very best, Keith Arsenault IAEG - International Arts & Entertainment Group Tampa, Florida ------------------------------ Message-ID: Date: Sat, 8 Oct 2005 17:07:36 -0400 From: Brian Munroe Reply-To: Brian Munroe Subject: Re: Hard edge on Legs In-Reply-To: References: On 10/8/05, IAEG [at] aol.com wrote: > A number of ballet companies / opera companies use long skinny sand bags= ( > easier on toes when they are eventually hit ) The fire hose that you are no longer using as actual fire hose makes great long skinny sandbags. Also makes great weights for spot lines if you sew a ring into it. Brian Munroe bpmunroe [at] gmail.com ------------------------------ Message-ID: Date: Sat, 8 Oct 2005 17:23:59 -0400 From: Brian Munroe Reply-To: Brian Munroe Subject: Re: Pocket hole report In-Reply-To: References: On 10/8/05, FrankWood95 [at] aol.com wrote: > For info, archives & UNSUBSCRIBE, see > --------------------------------------------------- > > In a message dated 08/10/05 01:23:01 GMT Daylight Time, bpmunroe [at] gmail.co= m > writes: > > > Pocket hole joints are pretty much fancy toe-screws. They are made > > with a jig that aligns that peices to be joined and drills an angled > > pilot hole and countersink. > > Thanks for the help. This raises another question: what are toe-screws? > > Frank Wood > Toe-screws are pretty much sloppy pocket hole joints. :) Seriously, toe-screws or toe-screwing (toe nailed) is a method of screwing a joint together where the screw is not run perpendicular to the joint, because you can't get to the other side of the joint. This might happen if you are added framing to an existing wall, for instance, and you can't get to the top side of the header framing. Picture a "T" joint where you could not get to the top of the "T" for some reason. Instead, you use a screw or nail entering the leg of the "T" on the side, running up at an angle, through the leg of the "T" and into the bottom of the cross of the "T" Not sure why it is called toe-nailed. Brian Munroe bpmunroe [at] gmail.com ------------------------------ Message-ID: <4348473E.9040603 [at] peoplepc.com> Date: Sat, 08 Oct 2005 17:25:02 -0500 From: Michael Drury Subject: Re: Pocket hole report References: In-Reply-To: I believe it comes from using the toe of your boot to hold the bottom joint in place while you add a wall stud. Not sure how they used their toes for the top joint (damn the lack of a prehensile tail). Michael Drury >Not sure why it is called toe-nailed. > > > ------------------------------ From: "Jonathan S. Deull" Subject: Best Stage Management Book Date: Sat, 8 Oct 2005 18:54:15 -0400 In-Reply-To: Message-ID: Way back when, my bible was Lawrence Stern's "Stage Management." I no longer have a copy and was considering getting a new one. I did not see it in the various greatest hits lists here. Do people still find it (revised edition of course) helpful? Has it been supplanted by Ionazzi and others as the most useful and authoritative guide? Jonathan Deull ------------------------------ Message-ID: Date: Sat, 8 Oct 2005 19:13:31 -0500 From: Patrick Immel Subject: Airless Paint Sprayers SGVsbG8gQWxsLAoKU2hvcnRseSBJIHdpbGwgYmUgbmVlZGluZyB0byBwYWludCBhIGxhcmdlIG51 bWJlciBvZiBsdWFuIHNoZWV0cy4gIFRoZQpwYWludCB3aWxsIG5lZWQgdG8gYmUgYXBwbGllZCB2 ZXJ5IGV2ZW5seSAobm8gcm9sbGVyIG1hcmtzISkuICBJbiBhbgplZmZvcnQgdG8gc3BlZWQgdGhl IHBhaW50aW5nLCBJIGFtIGxvb2tpbmcgaW50byByZW50aW5nIGFuIGFpcmxlc3MKc3ByYXllci4g IFRoZSBvbmUgSSBhbSBsb29raW5nIGF0IGlzIG9uZSBvZiB0aG9zZSBiaWcgaW5kdXN0cmlhbCBo b3VzZQpwYWludGVyIGtpbmRzLiAgSSB1c2VkIG9uZSBvZiB0aG9zZSBXYWduZXIgcG93ZXIgcGFp bnRlciBzcHJheWVycyB0bwpwYWludCBteSBob3VzZSBhIGNvdXBsZSBvZiB5ZWFycyBhbmQgd2Fu dGVkIHRvIHNjcmVhbSBhZnRlciBhYm91dCAzMAptaW51dGVzIG9mIHBhaW50aW5nIGFuZCAzLCAx NSBtaW51dGUgY2xlYW5pbmdzLiAoQW5kIHllcywgSSB0cmlwbGUKZmlsdGVyZWQgKHNvdW5kcyBs aWtlIGJlZXIgd2F0ZXIhKSBteSBwYWludCB0aHJvdWdoIDMgbGF5ZXJzIG9mIGNoZWVzZQpjbG90 aCEpCgpTbyBJIGd1ZXNzIEkgYW0gYXNraW5nIGlmIGFueWJvZHkgaGFzIGhhZCBhbnkgZXhwZXJp ZW5jZXMsIGdvb3Igb3IgYmFkCnVzaW5nIHRoZXNlIGd1eXMuICBJIHdvcmsgZXhjbHVzaXZlbHkg d2l0aCBzdHVkZW50IGNyZXdzIQoKVGhhbmtzLApQYXQKCi0tClBhdHJpY2sgSW1tZWwKTGlnaHRp bmcgYW5kIFNjZW5pYyBEZXNpZ25lcgpOb3J0aHdlc3QgTWlzc291cmkgU3RhdGUgVW5pdmVyc2l0 eQpwYXRyaWNraW1tZWwuY29tCg== ------------------------------ Message-ID: Date: Sat, 8 Oct 2005 19:17:16 -0500 From: Patrick Immel Subject: Fly system models SGVsbG8gYWdhaW4hCgpOZXh0IHF1ZXN0aW9uISAgSSB3YW50IHRvIG1ha2Ugc29tZSB0eXBlIG9m IHdvcmtpbmcgc2NhbGUgbW9kZWwgb2YgYQpkb3VibGUgcHVyY2hhc2UgcmlnZ2luZyBzeXN0ZW0u ICBUaGUgd2hvbGUgbW9kZWwgd291bGQgYmUgbWF5YmUgMzYiCnRhbGwuICBJIGtub3cgdGhhdCBJ IGFtIGdvaW5nIHRvIGhhdmUgdG8gZmFicmljYXRlIG11Y2ggb2YgdGhlIG1vZGVsLAoodW5sZXNz IHRoZXJlIGFyZSAzIiBhcmJvcnMgZm9yIHNhbGUgc29tZSB3aGVyZSEpLCBidXQgSSBhbSB3b25k ZXJpbmcKaWYgdGhlcmUgaXMgYSBzb3VyY2UgZm9yIHJlYWxseSBzbWFsbCBzaGVhdmVzIGFuZCBw dWxsaWVzIHRvIGNyZWF0ZQp0aGUgaW5kaXZpZHVhbCBwYXJ0cyBvZiB0aGUgc3lzdGVtPwoKVGhh bmtzIGluIGFkdmFuY2UhClBhdAoKLS0KUGF0cmljayBJbW1lbApMaWdodGluZyBhbmQgU2Nlbmlj IERlc2lnbmVyCk5vcnRod2VzdCBNaXNzb3VyaSBTdGF0ZSBVbml2ZXJzaXR5CnBhdHJpY2tpbW1l bC5jb20K ------------------------------ Reply-To: From: "RD" Subject: RE: Fly system models Date: Sat, 8 Oct 2005 18:31:56 -0600 In-Reply-To: Message-ID: I have built an entire 78 line theater rigging system that worked for a case in NYC, year ago. We found a company in Southern Calif. that fabricated those small items, and also did it for those building ships. Doom -----Original Message----- From: Stagecraft [mailto:stagecraft [at] theatrical.net] On Behalf Of Patrick Immel Sent: Saturday, October 08, 2005 6:17 PM To: Stagecraft Subject: Fly system models For info, archives & UNSUBSCRIBE, see --------------------------------------------------- Hello again! Next question! I want to make some type of working scale model of a double purchase rigging system. The whole model would be maybe 36" tall. I know that I am going to have to fabricate much of the model, (unless there are 3" arbors for sale some where!), but I am wondering if there is a source for really small sheaves and pullies to create the individual parts of the system? Thanks in advance! Pat -- Patrick Immel Lighting and Scenic Designer Northwest Missouri State University patrickimmel.com ------------------------------ Message-Id: From: William McLachlan Subject: Parallels (folding platforms) available FREE to school, church, etc. Date: Sat, 8 Oct 2005 17:57:06 -0700 Hello List, The Greek Theater in Los Angeles has a fairly large amount of good condition 4' x 8' Parallels (folding platforms, flat construction) they would like to donate to some deserving institution that can come pick them up. These platforms have been in stock at The Greek for many years and are in used but great shape. They were built and maintained by IATSE Local 33 carpenters. The frames are painted black, and various plywood lids are painted grey. We believe there are far FEWER lids than platforms, and we would guess the platform stock is upwards of 30 units in varying heights from 1' up to 4'. There might be a few 6" versions in the stack, but we have not put together an accurate inventory. Please contact me off-list at wmld [at] mac.com and I'll point you in the right direction. By the way, I've been the Master Electrician and House LD here for this season. Here's the hitch: The platforms are going to be discarded IN ONE WEEK. If you're interested, contact us soon - we're wrapping the building for the winter over the next 10 days or so. Cheers, Willy McLachlan ------------------------------ Message-ID: Date: Sat, 8 Oct 2005 22:57:40 -0400 From: Delbert Hall Cc: doomster [at] worldnet.att.net Subject: Re: Fly system models In-Reply-To: References: Pat, Matt Sweeney (www.sweeney-special-effects.com) makes 3/64" x 3/4" blocks especially for models. They have shielded precision ball bearings and are wonderful, but they maybe a little pricey for your project - $30 each; but they are about the right scale for your model. You might also look at model railroad suppliers. -Delbert -- Delbert L. Hall ZFX -Technical Coordinator for Classic Productions Phone: 714-585-7070 ------------------------------ Date: Sun, 09 Oct 2005 00:03:02 -0400 Subject: Re: Airless Paint Sprayers From: John McKernon Message-ID: In-Reply-To: > I guess I am asking if anybody has had any experiences, goor or bad using > these guys. Yes, I've used them to paint many an acre of opera scenery, and not too many years ago to paint our barn. (Two entire coats in two days - wonderful!) They are a terrifically powerful tool, in every way. Things to watch out for: * They deliver a huge amount of paint, so unless the surface you're painting is highly textured and highly absorbent, don't be afraid to do multiple light coats. On the other hand, if it's T-111 siding (like our barn), go ahead and let it force the paint right into the surface. Just remember, it's a giant can of spray paint, don't put so much paint down that it runs and drips. * Use the nozzle size recommended for whatever kind of paint you're using. It does make a difference - the wrong nozzle will produce hideous results. Also thin the paint as recommended by the sprayer manufacturer, if necessary. * The force of the paint coming out of the sprayer is enough to inject the paint directly into your body, so be very, very careful about what direction you're spraying and how close the gun gets to flesh. Injecting paint into your bloodstream is not something you want to happen, but it's easy to do if you aren't paying close constant attention. * Clean, clean, clean. Run water through the pump and hose until it runs clear, take the nozzle off and clean it separately. If you stop for a break, put the nozzle in a bucket of clean water until you get back. If you stop for the night, clean everything out before you go home. * You can get airless sprayers at places like Home Depot, but they're consumer models and won't last more than a week or two under heavy shop use. If you're renting a commercial model you should be fine. - John ------------------------------ End of Stagecraft Digest #544 *****************************