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Subject: Stagecraft Digest #549
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For info, archives & UNSUBSCRIBE, see <http://stagecraft.theprices.net/>
---------------------------------------------------

Stagecraft Digest, Issue #549

 1. Re: Dimmer Problems
    by "Alf Sauve" <alf.sauve [at] mindspring.com>
 2. Re: Dimmer Problems
    by "Jeffrey E. Salzberg" <stagecraft [at] jeffsalzberg.com>
 3. Re: s4 36 deg lens tubes.
    by "C. Dopher" <brooklyn [at] dopher.com>
 4. Re: One for the pot?
    by "Charles J Korecki" <ckorecki [at] hotmail.com>
 5. Re: Legality of money on stage?
    by Dale Farmer <dale [at] cybercom.net>
 6. Re: One for the pot?
    by "Secore, Scott" <Scott.Secore [at] EKU.EDU>
 7. Re: Dimmer Problems
    by Jerry Durand <jdurand [at] interstellar.com>
 8. Re: Portable staging
    by Dale Farmer <dale [at] cybercom.net>
 9. Re: One for the pot?
    by "Charles J Korecki" <ckorecki [at] hotmail.com>
10. Re: Emergency Prodecures
    by Dale Farmer <dale [at] cybercom.net>
11. Re: s4 36 deg lens tubes.
    by "Jeffrey Kanyuck" <JKanyuck [at] Harford.edu>
12. Re: s4 36 deg lens tubes.
    by Jerry Durand <jdurand [at] interstellar.com>
13. one for the pot
    by b Ricie <b_ricie [at] yahoo.com>
14. ah, the falling leaves...
    by "Frank Kern" <bugsynights [at] hotmail.com>
15. Cleaning lens tubes
    by Paul Marsland <paulbmarsland [at] yahoo.com>
16. Re: Cleaning lens tubes
    by Stephen Litterst <slitterst [at] ithaca.edu>
17. Re: ah, the falling leaves...
    by Greg Bierly <gbierly [at] dejazzd.com>
18. Re: one for the pot
    by "Steve Jones" <steve.jones [at] glasgowplazatheatre.org>
19. Re: ah, the falling leaves...
    by Stephen Litterst <slitterst [at] ithaca.edu>
20. Re: One for the pot?
    by doran [at] bard.edu
21. Re: ah, the falling leaves...
    by "LES LIND" <lindl [at] nesd.k12.pa.us>
22. Re: Dimmer Problems
    by "Alf Sauve" <alf.sauve [at] mindspring.com>
23. Re: s4 36 deg lens tubes.
    by Ron Cargile <rcargile [at] uci.edu>
24. Re: ah, the falling leaves...
    by "richard j. archer" <rja10 [at] cornell.edu>
25. Re: Dimmer Problems
    by FrankWood95 [at] aol.com
26. Re: Legality of money on stage?
    by FrankWood95 [at] aol.com
27. Re: Dimmer Problems
    by Jerry Durand <jdurand [at] interstellar.com>
28. Re: Dimmer Problems
    by FrankWood95 [at] aol.com
29. Re: Dimmer Problems
    by FrankWood95 [at] aol.com
30. Re: Dimmer Problems
    by Jerry Durand <jdurand [at] interstellar.com>
31. ETC Offline editor help, please
    by Ken Romaine <ken.stagecraft [at] gmail.com>
32. Re: ETC Offline editor help, please
    by Shawn King <skingld [at] gmail.com>
33. Re: ETC Offline editor help, please
    by "Abby Downing" <aldowning [at] onlocationls.com>
34. Re: Dimmer Problems
    by FrankWood95 [at] aol.com
35. Re: Dimmer Problems
    by "Jerry Durand" <jdurand [at] interstellar.com>
36. Re: Dimmer Problems
    by "Alf Sauve" <alf.sauve [at] mindspring.com>
37. Re: ETC Offline editor help, please
    by Herrick Goldman <Herrick [at] HGLightingDesign.com>
38. Re: ah, the falling leaves...
    by "Matthew Breton" <theatricalmatt [at] hotmail.com>
39. Re: Dimmer Problems
    by Jerry Durand <jdurand [at] interstellar.com>
40. Re: ah, the falling leaves...
    by seanrmc [at] earthlink.net

*** Please update the subject line of your reply to use the subject
*** line of the message you are replying to! Please only reply to
*** one message subject in each reply.

----------------------------------------------------------------------

Message-ID: <028101c5cfeb$bb3082f0$6501a8c0 [at] ALFOFFICE>
Reply-To: "Alf Sauve" <alf.sauve [at] mindspring.com>
From: "Alf Sauve" <alf.sauve [at] mindspring.com>
Subject: Re: Dimmer Problems
Date: Thu, 13 Oct 2005 07:46:18 -0400

I have a "guppy" along these lines.  See what you think.

I'd like to take a dimmer module and strip out the toroid, the scr and the
control circuit.  Basically wire the circuit breakers to the output lugs.
In between, I'd install a test point and maybe an Amp meter.  Maybe a pilot
 light.  When I have a question about a circuit, I'd pull the regular dimmer
 module and install the test module.   This eliminates all those questions
 about rack configuration, pre-set stations, etc.

 I've got a spare module and some bad power cubes.  Now where can I find a
 pair of 0.5ohm, 250 Watt resistors?

 Alf
 GUP = Great Unfinished Project
 Guppy =  a little GUP




------------------------------

Reply-To: <stagecraft [at] jeffsalzberg.com>
From: "Jeffrey E. Salzberg" <stagecraft [at] jeffsalzberg.com>
Cc: alf.sauve [at] mindspring.com ('Alf Sauve')
Subject: RE: Dimmer Problems
Date: Thu, 13 Oct 2005 07:51:18 -0400
Message-ID: <001b01c5cfec$6cd7f150$6701a8c0 [at] Dell>
In-reply-to: <list-25061208 [at] prxy.net>



> Now where 
> can I find a  pair of 0.5ohm, 250 Watt resistors?

You simply put two 1-ohm, 125W resisters in parallel.



------------------------------

Date:	Thu, 13 Oct 2005 08:08:42 -0400
Subject: Re: s4 36 deg lens tubes.
From:	"C. Dopher" <brooklyn [at] dopher.com>
Message-ID: <BF73C68A.1E843%brooklyn [at] dopher.com>
In-Reply-To: <434DDB04.5010501 [at] StudioOneSB.com>

On 10/12/05 11:56 PM, "Richard Bakos" <Rick [at] StudioOneSB.com> wrote:

> I have two dozen source 4 36 deg lens tubes that need to have the lenses
> cleaned.
> Ok I am Lazy and do not want to disassemble all of them to clean them.
> Has any one cleaned them ala dish washing machine type cleaning.
> I would think there is a cleaning liquid that I could dip clean the
> entire assembly in  then blow them out.
> Has anyone tried this in the past that could weigh in on this matter?
> 
> Rick
> 

I'd advise avoiding dishwasher soap.  The coatings on S4 lenses are cranky.
Take one tube and run it through a cycle in your dishwasher sans soap; see
how that does.  Should be all that's needed.

Cris Dopher, LD


------------------------------

Message-ID: <BAY107-F22CED43D18092FA4A2132EDE7A0 [at] phx.gbl>
In-Reply-To: <list-25053114 [at] prxy.net>
From: "Charles J Korecki" <ckorecki [at] hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: One for the pot?
Date: Thu, 13 Oct 2005 09:25:13 -0400


>Think about memory foam with an aluminum armature.  The foam can be flat
>patterned and edge glued together.  Did something like this for an opera
>called "The Love of Three Oranges" and the oranges "grew" from small
>size to the final three with a princess inside each of them.
>
I am not familiar with this product.  Can you point me to a source?  Or 
better yet, some pictures of it in action?  Sounds really cool!

Thanks!!

Charles J Korecki



------------------------------

Message-ID: <434E6405.67F6E7B0 [at] cybercom.net>
Date: Thu, 13 Oct 2005 09:41:25 -0400
From: Dale Farmer <dale [at] cybercom.net>
Organization: The  fuzz in the back of the fridge. 
Subject: Re: Legality of money on stage?
References: <list-24972090 [at] prxy.net> <list-24972314 [at] prxy.net> <list-24972395 [at] prxy.net>



Bill Nelson wrote:

> For info, archives & UNSUBSCRIBE, see <http://stagecraft.theprices.net/>
> ---------------------------------------------------
>
> > Also some newer photocopies will recognize the money and not
> > copy it and will call the police.
>
> I suspect this is a myth, for a number of reasons. The primary one is, how
> can the police be called, when there is no phone line or net connection?
>
> Bill

    Some of the high end color copiers and image management systems
will recognize currency, and will embed into the image their serial number
using a steaganography process.  This has been used to trace a number
of high school age counterfeiters back to the color copier back at school.
  If you really want something resembling current US currency, you can
go to companies like The American Banknote Company and purchase
sample notes in quantity.

    You can use real currency on stage all you want, just is a bit of a
problem keeping it from disappearing from the prop table.  One nice
solution I've seen is to use photoshop to make up a mock currency,
with pictures of the notables of your theater, and your performance
dates and locations on it.  Print up lots of them, and use them as
part of your publicity materiel as well as for stage props.

    --Dale



------------------------------

Subject: Re: One for the pot?
Date: Thu, 13 Oct 2005 09:41:24 -0400
Message-ID: <346414591B50EE4299DB6686321B8CC701D29344 [at] FACSTAFF.facultystaff.eku.edu>
From: "Secore, Scott" <Scott.Secore [at] EKU.EDU>

>>>>Charles J. Korecki wrote:  "I am not familiar with this product.
Can you point me to a source?  Or better yet, some pictures of it in
action?  Sounds really cool!" =20
In regard to "Think about memory foam with an aluminum armature."  <<<<


Unless the original "poster" was talking about something else completely
different...

Memory foam (seems to me at least) is most commonly used in
mattress/pillow/bedding making. It's the stuff that contours to whatever
shape you make it, and it stays that way. Really soft and comfortable I
might add. It was originally developed by NASA back
in the 70's. Check out this link for a rundown:
http://www.healthyfoundations.com/memoryfoam.html


-Scott
TTS
EKU

------------------------------

In-Reply-To: <list-25061208 [at] prxy.net>
References: <list-25061208 [at] prxy.net>
Message-Id: <CFB57D0E-3BCA-4A98-8EA6-40F7CDEE7600 [at] interstellar.com>
From: Jerry Durand <jdurand [at] interstellar.com>
Subject: Re: Dimmer Problems
Date: Thu, 13 Oct 2005 06:51:43 -0700


On Oct 13, 2005, at 4:46 AM, Alf Sauve wrote:

> I've got a spare module and some bad power cubes.  Now where can I  
> find a
> pair of 0.5ohm, 250 Watt resistors?
>

cheaper for the 1 ohm in parallel

www.mouser.com , part # 284-HS150-0.5 , 1 ohm, 150W, 15.79 each


------------------------------

Message-ID: <434E6CB6.F552FF84 [at] cybercom.net>
Date: Thu, 13 Oct 2005 10:18:30 -0400
From: Dale Farmer <dale [at] cybercom.net>
Organization: The  fuzz in the back of the fridge. 
Subject: Re: Portable staging
References: <list-25049778 [at] prxy.net>



Paul Marsland wrote:

> For info, archives & UNSUBSCRIBE, see <http://stagecraft.theprices.net/>
> ---------------------------------------------------
>
> >
> > A customer has inquired concerning
> > upper-middle-quality platforms to
> > construct a 16' x 20' "stage" in a shopping mall.
> > Kindly endorse
> > your favorites for me, please.
> >
> > Best regards,
> >   Frank E. Merrill
> >   MERRILL STAGE EQUIPMENT
>
> A staple in these parts is Biljax 4x4's.  Nice and
> modular, variable leg heights.  Maybe a bit more labor
> intensive than your client may be looking for.
>
> Paul

    I like the biljax system as well.  Sturdy, reliable, and not
too heavy.  You can usually find at least one other person in
the labor crew who has built them before and knows the tricks
to make it easier.  Since you are doing it on a shopping mall
floor, the biggest hassle, leveling them, isn't a problem.
    For a shopping mall thing, you can just ignore the issue of
the underlying platform maker, and just contract for a platform
of the specified size, shape, and weight capacity to be
constructed by a local staging rental company.

    --Dale



------------------------------

Message-ID: <BAY107-F31F72FC0408C60B59D10EEDE7A0 [at] phx.gbl>
In-Reply-To: <list-25062226 [at] prxy.net>
From: "Charles J Korecki" <ckorecki [at] hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: One for the pot?
Date: Thu, 13 Oct 2005 10:25:51 -0400

OH.  I see.  I've heard of this stuff.  When I read the original post about 
memory foam I had visions of something like Batman's cape from the Batman 
Begins movie.

Charles

>
> >>>>Charles J. Korecki wrote:  "I am not familiar with this product.
>Can you point me to a source?  Or better yet, some pictures of it in
>action?  Sounds really cool!"
>In regard to "Think about memory foam with an aluminum armature."  <<<<
>

>Memory foam (seems to me at least) is most commonly used in
>mattress/pillow/bedding making. It's the stuff that contours to whatever
>shape you make it, and it stays that way. Really soft and comfortable I
>might add. It was originally developed by NASA back
>in the 70's. Check out this link for a rundown:
>http://www.healthyfoundations.com/memoryfoam.html
>
>
>-Scott
>TTS
>EKU



------------------------------

Message-ID: <434E6F1F.2752B230 [at] cybercom.net>
Date: Thu, 13 Oct 2005 10:28:47 -0400
From: Dale Farmer <dale [at] cybercom.net>
Organization: The  fuzz in the back of the fridge. 
Subject: Re: Emergency Prodecures
References: <list-25048520 [at] prxy.net>



theatre safety programs wrote:

> For info, archives & UNSUBSCRIBE, see <http://stagecraft.theprices.net/>
> ---------------------------------------------------
>
> For those of you who are interested, I wrote an article on this topic
> which appeared in the June/July 2001 Stage Directions.  If you would
> like a copy, please e-mail me off list with your fax number -- I will
> be happy to fax it to you
>
> My general request is to know if anyone has any documents (or a source)
> that covers procedures for medical situations, fires and other
> emergencies in the Theatre?  I have general ideas of what should
> happen/what I want to happen, I just thought it would be nice to check
> those against what the standards are/everyone else is doing.
>
> Jerry Gorrell
> Technical Director, Phoenix Stages, City of Phoenix
> Principal, Theatre Safety Programs

    One thing I have seen at some government and university sites is a
little
tabbed booklet that is glued to the wall next to every phone.  The top has
the various emergency phone numbers and the official name of the location
that the phone is for the emergency response folks.   The other tabs have
procedures for everything.  quickie first aid, bomb threats, fires, etc.
Very
handy and great for a site that has lots of non-staff people working there
occasionally.

    --Dale



------------------------------

Message-Id: <s34e3760.026 [at] ADM4.Harford.edu>
Date: Thu, 13 Oct 2005 09:50:05 -0400
From: "Jeffrey Kanyuck" <JKanyuck [at] Harford.edu>
Subject: Re: s4 36 deg lens tubes.



>>>> brooklyn [at] dopher.com 10/13/2005 8:08 AM >>>
>For info, archives & UNSUBSCRIBE, see
<http://stagecraft.theprices.net/>
>---------------------------------------------------
>
>On 10/12/05 11:56 PM, "Richard Bakos" <Rick [at] StudioOneSB.com> wrote:
>
>> I have two dozen source 4 36 deg lens tubes that need to have the
lenses
>> cleaned.
>> Ok I am Lazy and do not want to disassemble all of them to clean
them.
>> Has any one cleaned them ala dish washing machine type cleaning.
>> I would think there is a cleaning liquid that I could dip clean the
>> entire assembly in  then blow them out.
>> Has anyone tried this in the past that could weigh in on this
matter?
>> 
>> Rick
>> 
>
>I'd advise avoiding dishwasher soap.  The coatings on S4 lenses are
cranky.
>Take one tube and run it through a cycle in your dishwasher sans soap;
see
>how that does.  Should be all that's needed.
>
>Cris Dopher, LD
>

I'd avoid the dishwasher too unless you have a way to use only
distilled water.
The manufacturer says to clean the lenses with denatured alcohol. 
We clean ours every summer. Take them all apart, wipe them down and
put them back together. You may find over a period of time of not
cleaning them
properly a film will build up on the lens just like the film on your
interior windshield
of your vehicle.
The film will probably stay if you just do the dishwasher style
cleaning.
I figure this film is from the vapors in the air cooking from the
heat of the light and settling on the lens. Or the paint heating up and
letting
vapors loose like vinyl dashboards. 

Jeff Kanyuck


------------------------------

Message-Id: <6.2.3.4.0.20051013074620.03fc5d18 [at] 192.168.0.13>
Date: Thu, 13 Oct 2005 07:50:31 -0700
From: Jerry Durand <jdurand [at] interstellar.com>
Subject: Re: s4 36 deg lens tubes.
In-Reply-To: <list-25062794 [at] prxy.net>
References: <list-25062794 [at] prxy.net>

At 06:50 AM 10/13/2005, you wrote:
>The film will probably stay if you just do the dishwasher style
>cleaning.
>I figure this film is from the vapors in the air cooking from the
>heat of the light and settling on the lens. Or the paint heating up and
>letting
>vapors loose like vinyl dashboards.

I used to rebuild industrial cutting lasers and the front lens on 
them would get a burned-on film from the smoke.  These were about 
1200W, so the power level is about the same as a regular luminary, 
but the beam was focused down to about 0.001" diameter.

Anyway, if the alcohol didn't clean them, they were considered scrap 
until I tried 1 micron diamond dust.  A little of this in alcohol and 
rubbed lightly with a finger would clean them off.  Don't scrub hard 
in one area, you'll change the lens shape.

I bought the diamond dust from Edmund Scientific pre-mixed with alcohol.


-- 
Jerry Durand
Durand Interstellar, Inc.
219 Oak Wood Way
Los Gatos, California 95032-2523 USA
tel:  +1 408 356-3886, USA toll free:  1 866 356-3886
web:  www.interstellar.com



------------------------------

Message-ID: <20051013150138.98164.qmail [at] web50606.mail.yahoo.com>
Date: Thu, 13 Oct 2005 08:01:38 -0700 (PDT)
From: b Ricie <b_ricie [at] yahoo.com>
Subject: one for the pot
In-Reply-To: <list-25060412 [at] prxy.net>


>>Memory foam??
>>Details, please.

>>TD

Memory foam is made up of....uhhh, sorry I forget...




Brian Rice 
508-685-0716
b_ricie [at] yahoo.com
"Blessed are the cracked: For it is they who let in the 
light."


		
__________________________________ 
Yahoo! Music Unlimited 
Access over 1 million songs. Try it free.
http://music.yahoo.com/unlimited/

------------------------------

Message-ID: <BAY101-F1884F3820798F5372D0B70BA7A0 [at] phx.gbl>
From: "Frank Kern" <bugsynights [at] hotmail.com>
Subject: ah, the falling leaves...
Date: Thu, 13 Oct 2005 15:17:06 +0000

<html><div style='background-color:'><DIV class=RTE>Hey guys.&nbsp; Am doing a production of "Three Sisters" and the </DIV>
<DIV class=RTE>director is&nbsp;requesting an effect requiring a&nbsp;couple of&nbsp;leaves to </DIV>
<DIV class=RTE>fall&nbsp;from the flys/catwalks&nbsp;at several different&nbsp;times during the </DIV>
<DIV class=RTE>final act of the play, mimicking the&nbsp;autumn season.&nbsp; Was&nbsp;thinking </DIV>
<DIV class=RTE>about solenoids but...too loud, me thinks.&nbsp;&nbsp;I have used solenoids </DIV>
<DIV class=RTE>to drop heavy pieces of fabric, props, etc...but nothing this light </DIV>
<DIV class=RTE>and delicate.&nbsp; Manually operated?&nbsp;Remote? Techies&nbsp;on the cats?&nbsp; </DIV>
<DIV class=RTE>Any suggestions? Thanks for your time.</DIV>
<DIV class=RTE>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV class=RTE>Frank Kern III</DIV>
<DIV class=RTE>North Carolina School of the Arts&nbsp;</DIV></div></html>


------------------------------

Message-ID: <20051013152714.20488.qmail [at] web52214.mail.yahoo.com>
Date: Thu, 13 Oct 2005 08:27:13 -0700 (PDT)
From: Paul Marsland <paulbmarsland [at] yahoo.com>
Subject: Cleaning lens tubes
In-Reply-To: <list-25060412 [at] prxy.net>

> From: Richard Bakos <Rick [at] StudioOneSB.com>
> Organization: Studio One Inc.
> Subject: s4 36 deg lens tubes.
> 
> I have two dozen source 4 36 deg lens tubes that
> need to have the lenses 
> cleaned.

Some ideas;
* compressed air with a flexible straw-like device on
the end, to get the inside of the front lens and back
lens.  You should be able to insert it through the gap
around the back lens
* piece of swiffer on a coat hanger inserted through
the gap by the back lens.
* a two or three stage wash (similar to what I see
bartenders do), first stage soapy, second and third
stage rinse.  You may want some method of forced air
drying to prevent rust in the bits of hardware

I have never tried any of these as I am too lazy as
well.  Looking forward to hearing what works for you.

Paul


		
__________________________________ 
Yahoo! Music Unlimited 
Access over 1 million songs. Try it free.
http://music.yahoo.com/unlimited/

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 13 Oct 2005 11:32:15 -0400
From: Stephen Litterst <slitterst [at] ithaca.edu>
Subject: Re: Cleaning lens tubes
In-reply-to: <list-25063390 [at] prxy.net>
Message-id: <434E7DFF.9050006 [at] ithaca.edu>
Organization: IC-Dept. of Theatre Arts
References: <list-25063390 [at] prxy.net>

Paul Marsland wrote:
> ---------------------------------------------------
> * a two or three stage wash (similar to what I see
> bartenders do), first stage soapy, second and third
> stage rinse.  You may want some method of forced air
> drying to prevent rust in the bits of hardware

I have been told repeatedly by ETC, *never* to use soap on a Source4 
lens.  It will degrade/damage/make bad the non-reflective coating on 
the lens.

As much as the OP doesn't want to disassemble the lenses, if the dirt 
is caked on it's the only way.  I'd suggest taking the time to pull 
the tubes apart and cleaning thoroughly.  From then on, use compressed 
air every time they go into storage.  And try to keep storage dust-free.

Steve Litterst


-- 
Stephen C. Litterst
Technical Supervisor
Ithaca College
Dept. of Theatre Arts
607/274-3947
slitterst [at] ithaca.edu

------------------------------

In-Reply-To: <list-25063270 [at] prxy.net>
References: <list-25063270 [at] prxy.net>
Message-Id: <08a3adcf31f9eb0390ec6b7a529b5285 [at] dejazzd.com>
From: Greg Bierly <gbierly [at] dejazzd.com>
Subject: Re: ah, the falling leaves...
Date: Thu, 13 Oct 2005 11:30:25 -0400

> Manually operated?=A0Remote? Techies=A0on the cats?=A0
> Any suggestions?

Modified Snow Bag (larger holes/slits) would be my recommendation.


Greg Bierly
Technical Director
Hempfield HS


------------------------------

From: "Steve Jones" <steve.jones [at] glasgowplazatheatre.org>
Subject: RE: one for the pot
Date: Thu, 13 Oct 2005 10:38:02 -0500
Organization: Plaza Theatre
In-reply-to: <list-25063081 [at] prxy.net>
Message-ID: <auto-000025063552 [at] prxy.net>

Memory foam:

The residue left stuck to the sides of the mug after the last beer of the
night.

Or another term for the next morning when you can't remember anything from
the previous night.  A bad case of memory foam.

*grin*

Steve 


*************************************
Steve Jones, Director
Plaza Theatre
115 E. Main Street
Glasgow, KY  42141
Voice: (270) 361-2101
Fax: (270) 651-2511
http://www.glasgowplazatheatre.org
-----Original Message-----
From: Stagecraft [mailto:stagecraft [at] theatrical.net] On Behalf Of b Ricie
Sent: Thursday, October 13, 2005 10:02 AM
To: Stagecraft
Subject: one for the pot

For info, archives & UNSUBSCRIBE, see <http://stagecraft.theprices.net/>
---------------------------------------------------


>>Memory foam??
>>Details, please.

>>TD

Memory foam is made up of....uhhh, sorry I forget...




Brian Rice
508-685-0716
b_ricie [at] yahoo.com
"Blessed are the cracked: For it is they who let in the light."


		
__________________________________
Yahoo! Music Unlimited
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------------------------------

Date: Thu, 13 Oct 2005 11:42:17 -0400
From: Stephen Litterst <slitterst [at] ithaca.edu>
Subject: Re: ah, the falling leaves...
In-reply-to: <list-25063270 [at] prxy.net>
Message-id: <434E8059.6030207 [at] ithaca.edu>
Organization: IC-Dept. of Theatre Arts
References: <list-25063270 [at] prxy.net>

Frank Kern wrote:
> For info, archives & UNSUBSCRIBE, see <http://stagecraft.theprices.net/>
> ---------------------------------------------------
> 
> Hey guys.  Am doing a production of "Three Sisters" and the
> director is requesting an effect requiring a couple of leaves to
> fall from the flys/catwalks at several different times during the
> final act of the play, mimicking the autumn season.  Was thinking
> about solenoids but...too loud, me thinks.  I have used solenoids
> to drop heavy pieces of fabric, props, etc...but nothing this light
> and delicate.  Manually operated? Remote? Techies on the cats? 
> Any suggestions? Thanks for your time.

* Use whatever drop-box you would for the solenoid actuator.  Replace 
the solenoid with a loose pin hinge and run some trick-line/tie-line 
from the hinge pin to the operator.  Use some small pulleys or other 
hardware to support the line and to keep the hinge pin from falling 
with the leaves.  The downside is that you'll need a separate box for 
each cue.

* Make a snow bag, but with large enough slots for your leaves.

Hope that helps.  Tell Serge I said Hi.

Steve L.

-- 
Stephen C. Litterst
Technical Supervisor
Ithaca College
Dept. of Theatre Arts
607/274-3947
slitterst [at] ithaca.edu

------------------------------

Message-ID: <1129218166.434e807691cf7 [at] webmail.bard.edu>
Date: Thu, 13 Oct 2005 11:42:46 -0400
From: doran [at] bard.edu
Subject: Re: One for the pot?
References: <list-25062226 [at] prxy.net>
In-Reply-To: <list-25062226 [at] prxy.net>

Charles and All,

Be careful.  I just got off the phone with a local mattress manufacturer.  He 
tells me that the price of foam shot up, and all manufacturers are on an 
allocation of a percentage of their normal use.  Seems that of the four 
producers of a certain chemical in all polyurethanes, one facility was 
completely knocked out by the last hurricane.

Good Luck,
Andy Champ-Doran



Charles J. Korecki wrote:  "I am not familiar with this product.
> Can you point me to a source?  Or better yet, some pictures of it in
> action?  Sounds really cool!"  
> In regard to "Think about memory foam with an aluminum armature."  

------------------------------

Message-Id: <s34e5bc9.048 [at] AC3.nesd.k12.pa.us>
Date: Thu, 13 Oct 2005 13:06:07 -0400
From: "LES LIND" <lindl [at] nesd.k12.pa.us>
Subject: Re: ah, the falling leaves...

This was a one-off, but we had to have feathers fall after a shotgun
shot. I put a gaffers tape hinge on a 16 oz. disposable plastic cup and
ran a mono-filament line from the bottom of the cup to the op position.
Pull the line, dump the feathers.

Les Lind, TD
NHS Dramatics
Northeastern High School
Manchester, PA



>>> slitterst [at] ithaca.edu 10/13/05 11:42:17 AM >>>
For info, archives & UNSUBSCRIBE, see
<http://stagecraft.theprices.net/>
---------------------------------------------------

Frank Kern wrote:
> For info, archives & UNSUBSCRIBE, see
<http://stagecraft.theprices.net/>
> ---------------------------------------------------
> 
> Hey guys.  Am doing a production of "Three Sisters" and the
> director is requesting an effect requiring a couple of leaves to
> fall from the flys/catwalks at several different times during the
> final act of the play, mimicking the autumn season.  Was thinking
> about solenoids but...too loud, me thinks.  I have used solenoids
> to drop heavy pieces of fabric, props, etc...but nothing this light
> and delicate.  Manually operated? Remote? Techies on the cats? 
> Any suggestions? Thanks for your time.

* Use whatever drop-box you would for the solenoid actuator.  Replace 
the solenoid with a loose pin hinge and run some trick-line/tie-line 
from the hinge pin to the operator.  Use some small pulleys or other 
hardware to support the line and to keep the hinge pin from falling 
with the leaves.  The downside is that you'll need a separate box for 
each cue.

* Make a snow bag, but with large enough slots for your leaves.

Hope that helps.  Tell Serge I said Hi.

Steve L.

-- 
Stephen C. Litterst
Technical Supervisor
Ithaca College
Dept. of Theatre Arts
607/274-3947
slitterst [at] ithaca.edu

------------------------------

Message-ID: <035601c5d019$dd7ca360$6501a8c0 [at] ALFOFFICE>
Reply-To: "Alf Sauve" <alf.sauve [at] mindspring.com>
From: "Alf Sauve" <alf.sauve [at] mindspring.com>
References: <list-25061208 [at] prxy.net> <list-25062333 [at] prxy.net>
Subject: Re: Dimmer Problems
Date: Thu, 13 Oct 2005 12:59:00 -0400

Actually, the question was rhetorical.  (More practical would be 0.1ohm 50W. 
Dropping 0-2V from 0-20Amps. And they're only $4.70ea.  HS50 page 463 in 
Mouser's Oct 2005 Cat 623.)

So is there any demand.  Anybody think it's a practical tool?

Alf

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Jerry Durand" <jdurand [at] interstellar.com>
To: "Stagecraft" <stagecraft [at] theatrical.net>
Sent: Thursday, October 13, 2005 9:51 AM
Subject: Re: Dimmer Problems


> For info, archives & UNSUBSCRIBE, see <http://stagecraft.theprices.net/>
> ---------------------------------------------------
>
>
> On Oct 13, 2005, at 4:46 AM, Alf Sauve wrote:
>
>> I've got a spare module and some bad power cubes.  Now where can I  find 
>> a
>> pair of 0.5ohm, 250 Watt resistors?
>>
>
> cheaper for the 1 ohm in parallel
>
> www.mouser.com , part # 284-HS150-0.5 , 1 ohm, 150W, 15.79 each
> 


------------------------------

Message-Id: <6.2.3.4.2.20051013103456.01d7cce0 [at] pop.uci.edu>
Date: Thu, 13 Oct 2005 10:45:39 -0700
From: Ron Cargile <rcargile [at] uci.edu>
Subject: RE: s4 36 deg lens tubes.

Richard Bakos said:
>I have two dozen source 4 36 deg lens tubes that need to have the lenses
>cleaned.
>Ok I am Lazy and do not want to disassemble all of them to clean them.
>Has any one cleaned them ala dish washing machine type cleaning.
>I would think there is a cleaning liquid that I could dip clean the
>entire assembly in  then blow them out.
>Has anyone tried this in the past that could weigh in on this matter?
>
>Rick

I have over 200 of those that get regular cleaning.  I have to tear 
them apart to do it, although I'm *thiiiiis* close to having a set of 
tools avoid that.
(Fortunately for me, labor is really cheap)  I have used the 
dishwasher on Altman parts with success, but not ETC.  I've had 
entire Source 4's completely inundated with no ill effects, 
however.  Just had to make sure they were dry.  The thing that would 
worry me is somehow "drying out" the  lens mounting pads that hold 
the glass in place and having them crumble.

Now that I think of it, I have a unit that lives outdoors that I 
regularly beat up on.  It might be time for a little experiment.

....Ron

----
Ron Cargile
ME, Univ of CA, Irvine


------------------------------

Message-Id: <p05210600bf744e222b49 [at] [132.236.252.58]>
In-Reply-To: <list-25063270 [at] prxy.net>
References: <list-25063270 [at] prxy.net>
Date: Thu, 13 Oct 2005 12:50:22 -0500
From: "richard j. archer" <rja10 [at] cornell.edu>
Subject: Re: ah, the falling leaves...

>  Manually operated?
>Frank Kern III
>North Carolina School of the Arts


Clothespin (the kind with the spring) on an overhead batten and trick 
line run offstage.

Dick A
TD Cornell U


------------------------------

From: FrankWood95 [at] aol.com
Message-ID: <ff.1e1e9e8c.307ffe48 [at] aol.com>
Date: Thu, 13 Oct 2005 14:15:36 EDT
Subject: Re: Dimmer Problems

In a message dated 13/10/05 12:47:43 GMT Daylight Time, 
alf.sauve [at] mindspring.com writes:

> When I have a question about a circuit, I'd pull the regular dimmer
>   module and install the test module.   This eliminates all those questions
>   about rack configuration, pre-set stations, etc.
>  
>   I've got a spare module and some bad power cubes.  Now where can I find a
>   pair of 0.5ohm, 250 Watt resistors?

What are these for? We're talking about a small electric fire, here. If, as I 
imagine, they are part of the current measurement system, there are better 
ways to do it, such as a current transformer. I certainly should not advise 
dissipating this much power, and heat, inside a module. 


Frank Wood

------------------------------

From: FrankWood95 [at] aol.com
Message-ID: <20e.b933796.30800001 [at] aol.com>
Date: Thu, 13 Oct 2005 14:22:57 EDT
Subject: Re: Legality of money on stage?

In a message dated 13/10/05 14:41:18 GMT Daylight Time, dale [at] cybercom.net 
writes:

>     You can use real currency on stage all you want, just is a bit of a
>  problem keeping it from disappearing from the prop table.  One nice
>  solution I've seen is to use photoshop to make up a mock currency,
>  with pictures of the notables of your theater, and your performance
>  dates and locations on it.  Print up lots of them, and use them as
>  part of your publicity materiel as well as for stage props.

A neat scam, in the days of the old English money, was to print the old white 
five pound notes with the words 'Bank of Engraving' rather than 'Bank of 
England'. This kept the actual forger and printer out of it. And who reads the 
words on money? I don't have a dollar bill to hand to be able to make a 
suggestion.


Frank Wood

------------------------------

Message-Id: <6.2.3.4.0.20051013112046.03fb34e0 [at] 192.168.0.13>
Date: Thu, 13 Oct 2005 11:24:40 -0700
From: Jerry Durand <jdurand [at] interstellar.com>
Subject: Re: Dimmer Problems
In-Reply-To: <list-25065112 [at] prxy.net>
References: <list-25065112 [at] prxy.net>

At 11:15 AM 10/13/2005, you wrote:
>What are these for? We're talking about a small electric fire, here. If, as I
>imagine, they are part of the current measurement system, there are better
>ways to do it, such as a current transformer. I certainly should not advise
>dissipating this much power, and heat, inside a module.

I was thinking of mentioning the size of the heat sink, but 
didn't.  Normally, for direct current measurement you'd use more like 
a 0.001 ohm resistor (called a shunt).  MUCH lower wattage (I use 
shunts to measure 10-20 Amps on PC boards all the time, as IC 
voltages have gone done, the current for them has gone WAY up).


-- 
Jerry Durand
Durand Interstellar, Inc.
219 Oak Wood Way
Los Gatos, California 95032-2523 USA
tel:  +1 408 356-3886, USA toll free:  1 866 356-3886
web:  www.interstellar.com



------------------------------

From: FrankWood95 [at] aol.com
Message-ID: <191.49b6b3a0.308001e1 [at] aol.com>
Date: Thu, 13 Oct 2005 14:30:57 EDT
Subject: Re: Dimmer Problems

In a message dated 13/10/05 18:18:21 GMT Daylight Time, 
alf.sauve [at] mindspring.com writes:

> Actually, the question was rhetorical.  (More practical would be 0.1ohm 
50W. 
>  Dropping 0-2V from 0-20Amps. And they're only $4.70ea.  HS50 page 463 in 
>  Mouser's Oct 2005 Cat 623.)
>  
>  So is there any demand.  Anybody think it's a practical tool?

I say again, heat dissipation. Can the rack ventilation system handle this? 


Frank Wood

------------------------------

From: FrankWood95 [at] aol.com
Message-ID: <20c.b93c023.30800329 [at] aol.com>
Date: Thu, 13 Oct 2005 14:36:25 EDT
Subject: Re: Dimmer Problems

In a message dated 13/10/05 19:27:34 GMT Daylight Time, 
jdurand [at] interstellar.com writes:

> I was thinking of mentioning the size of the heat sink, but 
>  didn't.  Normally, for direct current measurement you'd use more like 
>  a 0.001 ohm resistor (called a shunt).  MUCH lower wattage (I use 
>  shunts to measure 10-20 Amps on PC boards all the time, as IC 
>  voltages have gone done, the current for them has gone WAY up).

It works for AC, too. The trouble in in getting the accurately calibrated low 
value resistors. I remember old-fashioned meter shunts, which were quite 
heavy copper bars.


Frank Wood

------------------------------

Message-Id: <6.2.3.4.0.20051013121853.03dd08f0 [at] 192.168.0.13>
Date: Thu, 13 Oct 2005 12:20:01 -0700
From: Jerry Durand <jdurand [at] interstellar.com>
Subject: Re: Dimmer Problems
In-Reply-To: <list-25065377 [at] prxy.net>
References: <list-25065377 [at] prxy.net>

At 11:36 AM 10/13/2005, you wrote:
>It works for AC, too. The trouble in in getting the accurately calibrated low
>value resistors. I remember old-fashioned meter shunts, which were quite
>heavy copper bars.

You'll find they're easy to get now and pretty common.  All these 
1.8V, 10A power supplies mean lots of shunts available.  I normally 
get them from Mouser.


-- 
Jerry Durand
Durand Interstellar, Inc.
219 Oak Wood Way
Los Gatos, California 95032-2523 USA
tel:  +1 408 356-3886, USA toll free:  1 866 356-3886
web:  www.interstellar.com



------------------------------

Message-ID: <ce2084ad0510131315q11f817aew483da09c9dc176d0 [at] mail.gmail.com>
Date: Thu, 13 Oct 2005 16:15:34 -0400
From: Ken Romaine <ken.stagecraft [at] gmail.com>
Subject: ETC Offline editor help, please

I'm sending this P.S.A. for Herrick Goldman, eminent lighting designer.

He's out with a short tour of "A Chorus Line", and needs someone who
has ETC's offline editor for the Express/ion line of consoles and some
free time.

Herrick wants to e-mail his show file to this fine human, and receive
back, via e-mail, a .pdf file of his q-sheet and tracking sheet as
generated by the offline editor.

From the short phone call I received, it seems he would like to
accomplish this in short order.  (He leaves the tour for a gig in
Singapore soon.)

Please contact him at herrick [at] hglightingdesign.com if you think you
can help out this fellow Stagecrafter in his hour of need.  If you
wish, you can call his cell at 917-797-3624.

Thank you for your support.
--
Ken Romaine
Northeast US Sales Manager - Barco Events
The opinions expressed here are mine - all mine - no matter how
much I want to impose them on the rest of the world.

------------------------------

Message-ID: <84c790f30510131322l7357fd13v5a466806232f2989 [at] mail.gmail.com>
Date: Thu, 13 Oct 2005 16:22:50 -0400
From: Shawn King <skingld [at] gmail.com>
Subject: Re: ETC Offline editor help, please
In-Reply-To: <list-25066308 [at] prxy.net>
References: <list-25066308 [at] prxy.net>

Herrick,

I have some spare time tomorrow, and I would be happy to generate a
PDF if you still need someone to do this.

Feel free to call if you want: 347.661.0810

Let me know,
Shawn King

On 10/13/05, Ken Romaine <ken.stagecraft [at] gmail.com> wrote:
> For info, archives & UNSUBSCRIBE, see <http://stagecraft.theprices.net/>
> ---------------------------------------------------
>
> I'm sending this P.S.A. for Herrick Goldman, eminent lighting designer.
>
> He's out with a short tour of "A Chorus Line", and needs someone who
> has ETC's offline editor for the Express/ion line of consoles and some
> free time.
>
> Herrick wants to e-mail his show file to this fine human, and receive
> back, via e-mail, a .pdf file of his q-sheet and tracking sheet as
> generated by the offline editor.
>
> From the short phone call I received, it seems he would like to
> accomplish this in short order.  (He leaves the tour for a gig in
> Singapore soon.)
>
> Please contact him at herrick [at] hglightingdesign.com if you think you
> can help out this fellow Stagecrafter in his hour of need.  If you
> wish, you can call his cell at 917-797-3624.
>
> Thank you for your support.
> --
> Ken Romaine
> Northeast US Sales Manager - Barco Events
> The opinions expressed here are mine - all mine - no matter how
> much I want to impose them on the rest of the world.
>

------------------------------

Subject: RE: ETC Offline editor help, please
Date: Thu, 13 Oct 2005 17:45:38 -0400
Message-ID: <7AE59BA9B8D15D4787EB1C7A2DB6DFBA3001A6 [at] jekyll-sbs.ollsi.local>
From: "Abby Downing" <aldowning [at] onlocationls.com>
Cc: herrick [at] hglightingdesign.com

Ken, (and Herrick)

I tried to call about an hour ago to get the file but he was in
rehearsal.  I'll be happy to help if someone sends the show file to me.=20

Abby Downing
mailto:aldowning [at] onlocationls.com
www.onlocationls.com
513-309-6550 cell


-----Original Message-----
From: Ken Romaine [mailto:ken.stagecraft [at] gmail.com]=20
Sent: Thursday, October 13, 2005 4:16 PM
To: Stagecraft
Subject: ETC Offline editor help, please


For info, archives & UNSUBSCRIBE, see <http://stagecraft.theprices.net/>
---------------------------------------------------

I'm sending this P.S.A. for Herrick Goldman, eminent lighting designer.

He's out with a short tour of "A Chorus Line", and needs someone who has
ETC's offline editor for the Express/ion line of consoles and some free
time.

Herrick wants to e-mail his show file to this fine human, and receive
back, via e-mail, a .pdf file of his q-sheet and tracking sheet as
generated by the offline editor.

From the short phone call I received, it seems he would like to
accomplish this in short order.  (He leaves the tour for a gig in
Singapore soon.)

Please contact him at herrick [at] hglightingdesign.com if you think you can
help out this fellow Stagecrafter in his hour of need.  If you wish, you
can call his cell at 917-797-3624.

Thank you for your support.
--
Ken Romaine
Northeast US Sales Manager - Barco Events
The opinions expressed here are mine - all mine - no matter how much I
want to impose them on the rest of the world.

------------------------------

From: FrankWood95 [at] aol.com
Message-ID: <c0.3302b112.3080396b [at] aol.com>
Date: Thu, 13 Oct 2005 18:27:55 EDT
Subject: Re: Dimmer Problems

In a message dated 13/10/05 20:22:32 GMT Daylight Time, 
jdurand [at] interstellar.com writes:

> >It works for AC, too. The trouble in in getting the accurately calibrated 
> low
>  >value resistors. I remember old-fashioned meter shunts, which were quite
>  >heavy copper bars.
>  
>  You'll find they're easy to get now and pretty common.  All these 
>  1.8V, 10A power supplies mean lots of shunts available.  I normally 
>  get them from Mouser.

You surprise me. Most multimeters I have used since the 'sixties have had a 
10 A range, built in, They needed external shunts for heavier currents.But the 
electronic one I have will measure up to 10A, as will the much older 
electromechanical one I have. 


Frank Wood

------------------------------

Message-ID: <4256.68.164.86.41.1129244571.squirrel [at] interstellar.com>
In-Reply-To: <list-25067527 [at] prxy.net>
References: <list-25067527 [at] prxy.net>
Date: Thu, 13 Oct 2005 16:02:51 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: Re: Dimmer Problems
From: "Jerry Durand" <jdurand [at] interstellar.com>

On Thu, October 13, 2005 3:27 pm, FrankWood95 [at] aol.com wrote:
>> You surprise me. Most multimeters I have used since the 'sixties have =
had
> a
> 10 A range, built in, They needed external shunts for heavier currents.=
But
> the
> electronic one I have will measure up to 10A, as will the much older
> electromechanical one I have.

Just to be clear, these are physically small shunts that are permantly
mounted on the PC board and are used by the power supply chips to monitor
for shorts, and for "soft starting" on hot swap, and power up.



--=20
Jerry Durand
Durand Interstellar, Inc.
219 Oak Wood Way
Los Gatos, California 95032-2523 USA
tel:  +1 408 356-3886, USA toll free:  1 866 356-3886
web:  www.interstellar.com




------------------------------

Message-ID: <03ec01c5d04c$32539ec0$6501a8c0 [at] ALFOFFICE>
Reply-To: "Alf Sauve" <alf.sauve [at] mindspring.com>
From: "Alf Sauve" <alf.sauve [at] mindspring.com>
References: <list-25065312 [at] prxy.net>
Subject: Re: Dimmer Problems
Date: Thu, 13 Oct 2005 18:51:32 -0400

First, I'm not talking doing production stuff through these.  These are for 
wringing out circuits.  Doubtful that I'd ever pull 10A  much less 20A.  The 
only reason for spec'ing at 20A is that is the value of the circuit breaker 
already in the module.

I believe the Sensor and i96 racks could easily dissipate heat from one of 
these modules.  Not only is there the forced air flow but the Arcol 
resistors come with their own heatsink which would be bolted to the module 
body providing even more heat dissipation.  (Yes thermo-conducting grease 
will be applied as well!).

Shunts, as Jerry mentioned are typically bolted on the back of a meter. 
This isn't practical in this case as the meter will be external, so the 
Arcol resistors are ideal.  Then I'll use 10K resistors from either side of 
the shunt  to the test jack to provide current isolation to the outside 
world.  In this application, I'm not concerned with losing a couple of volts 
because we lose some anyway through the dimmer.  The concern is size, heat 
and cost.  So a $5, 0.1Ohm seems to be ideal.

I've taken apart a defunct power cube this pm and removed the electronics. 
(Ground them away is more like it.  They were potted to the heat sink.) 
Now I need to assemble it with just the power connections and install it 
into a module.   I was wondering though.  How much drop would I get if I 
left the toroid in place and used it as a shunt?  (I'll test that tomorrow.)

Alf



------------------------------

Date: Thu, 13 Oct 2005 19:33:59 -0400
Subject: Re: ETC Offline editor help, please
From: Herrick Goldman <Herrick [at] HGLightingDesign.com>
Message-ID: <BF746727.7FCA%Herrick [at] HGLightingDesign.com>
In-Reply-To: <list-25066308 [at] prxy.net>

Thanks Ken and also to the 4 or 5 of you who responded. Shawn King and I are
getting it sorted out. If something is buggy I'll try another of you
volunteers. 

And it's Shanghai not Singapore.

-H



-- 
Herrick Goldman
Lighting Designer, NYC
www.HGLightingDesign.com
917-797-3624
"To the scores of silent alchemists who wreak their joy in darkness and in
light bringing magic to life, we bow most humbly. "-CDS



------------------------------

Message-ID: <BAY104-F3438A6CE0315023BFCDC9DA7A0 [at] phx.gbl>
In-Reply-To: <list-25063270 [at] prxy.net>
From: "Matthew Breton" <theatricalmatt [at] hotmail.com>
Subject: RE: ah, the falling leaves...
Date: Thu, 13 Oct 2005 19:53:56 -0400

Use a vacuum with very light suction to slurp the leaves into their 
suspended position.  At the proper moment, cut power to the vacuum.

Or, perhaps, make some leaves with a metallic "spine" (not too heavy) and 
use electromagnets to keep them up.  This might even work if you need the 
leaves to fall from specific areas at different times, or in a specific 
sequence.

Brainstorming.  A little too drawn out to think these all the way through.


-- Matt

=========


>From: "Frank Kern" <bugsynights [at] hotmail.com>
>Reply-To: "Stagecraft" <stagecraft [at] theatrical.net>
>To: "Stagecraft" <stagecraft [at] theatrical.net>
>Subject: ah, the falling leaves...
>Date: Thu, 13 Oct 2005 15:17:06 +0000
>
>
>
>For info, archives & UNSUBSCRIBE, see <http://stagecraft.theprices.net/>
>---------------------------------------------------
>
>Hey guys.  Am doing a production of "Three Sisters" and the
>director is requesting an effect requiring a couple of leaves to
>fall from the flys/catwalks at several different times during the
>final act of the play, mimicking the autumn season.  Was thinking
>about solenoids but...too loud, me thinks.  I have used solenoids
>to drop heavy pieces of fabric, props, etc...but nothing this light
>and delicate.  Manually operated? Remote? Techies on the cats? 
>Any suggestions? Thanks for your time.
> 
>Frank Kern III
>North Carolina School of the Arts 
>

_________________________________________________________________
Don’t just search. Find. Check out the new MSN Search! 
http://search.msn.click-url.com/go/onm00200636ave/direct/01/


------------------------------

Message-Id: <6.2.3.4.0.20051013170110.04066c88 [at] 192.168.0.13>
Date: Thu, 13 Oct 2005 17:02:01 -0700
From: Jerry Durand <jdurand [at] interstellar.com>
Subject: Re: Dimmer Problems
In-Reply-To: <list-25067972 [at] prxy.net>
References: <list-25065312 [at] prxy.net>
 <list-25067972 [at] prxy.net>

At 03:51 PM 10/13/2005, you wrote:
>I've taken apart a defunct power cube this pm and removed the 
>electronics. (Ground them away is more like it.  They were potted to 
>the heat sink.) Now I need to assemble it with just the power 
>connections and install it into a module.   I was wondering 
>though.  How much drop would I get if I left the toroid in place and 
>used it as a shunt?  (I'll test that tomorrow.)

Copper changes resistance with temperature.  So, you could have a 
problem, depending on how accurate you want to be.


-- 
Jerry Durand
Durand Interstellar, Inc.
219 Oak Wood Way
Los Gatos, California 95032-2523 USA
tel:  +1 408 356-3886, USA toll free:  1 866 356-3886
web:  www.interstellar.com



------------------------------

Message-ID: <2720936.1129266401419.JavaMail.root [at] elwamui-ovcar.atl.sa.earthlink.net>
Date: Fri, 14 Oct 2005 01:06:41 -0400 (EDT)
From: seanrmc [at] earthlink.net
Reply-To: seanrmc [at] earthlink.net
Subject: Re: ah, the falling leaves...

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<DIV>Build a better mousetrap!&nbsp; Well, er, sort of....</DIV>
<DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV>Use a bunch of mousetraps mounted on end with the spring arm down.&nbsp; Using the "sprung" trap like a clothespin, it will hold a few leaves.&nbsp; Run a strong but light string (if you're dealing with a large run to offstage, tie line may be too heavy) and tie it to the spring arm--Nylon would be a better choice.&nbsp; Each leaf drop is then operated by a momentary tug on each string.</DIV>
<DIV>Points to keep in mind:</DIV>
<DIV>If you have a lot of leaves, separate every couple strings so you won't get tangles, and you'll be able to drop the same one at each point each night.</DIV>
<DIV>Use colored string.&nbsp; That way it's easier to tell what you're pulling.</DIV>
<DIV>As long as you don't just let go and let the spring snap back, these will be near silent, and very reliable.</DIV>
<DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV>Also.....</DIV>
<DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV>If you want more volume, but don't care as much about location (for example behind a window upstage in a box set) AND have the horizontal space&nbsp;use a roll.&nbsp; Take a long strip of muslin, about 1' wide and as long as the effect needs to be.&nbsp; What you do is roll up the muslin WITH the leaves sandwiched in between layers of the roll (think of the leaves as the jelly in a jelly roll).&nbsp; Tie a piece of tie line on the end of the roll, and pull it across stage (probably to a large rescue sheeve, etc).&nbsp; As you pull, the leaves in the roll will be released.</DIV>
<DIV>For a quick turnaround between shows, you could build a couple rolls and drop a fresh one into place for each show.</DIV>
<DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV>Feeble ASCII art:</DIV>
<DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV>Roll</DIV>
<DIV>&nbsp;&nbsp; ____________________--------------------------q&nbsp; &lt;----rescue sheeve</DIV>
<DIV>O&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; muslin&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; tie line&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; |<BR>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; %&nbsp; &lt;--- leaf&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;|</DIV>
<DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV>&nbsp; %</DIV>
<DIV>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;%&nbsp; </DIV>
<DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV>Make sense?</DIV>
<DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV>HTH</DIV>
<DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV>--Sean</DIV>
<DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV>Sean R. McCarthy</DIV>
<DIV><A href="mailto:seanrmc [at] earthlink.net">seanrmc [at] earthlink.net</A></DIV>
<DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV>-----Original Message----- <BR>From: Frank Kern&nbsp;<BUGSYNIGHTS [at] HOTMAIL.COM><BR> the director is&nbsp;requesting an effect requiring a&nbsp;couple of&nbsp;leaves to </DIV>
<DIV>
<DIV class=RTE>fall&nbsp;from the flys/catwalks&nbsp;at several different&nbsp;times during the </DIV>
<DIV class=RTE>final act of the play, mimicking the&nbsp;autumn season.&nbsp; Was&nbsp;thinking </DIV>
<DIV class=RTE>about solenoids but...too loud, me thinks.</DIV></DIV></BODY>

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End of Stagecraft Digest #549
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