Return-Path: X-Scanned-By: RAE MPP/Clamd http://raeinternet.com/mpp X-Scanned-By: This message was scanned by MPP Lite Edition (www.messagepartners.com)! X-Real-To: stagecraftlist [at] theatrical.net Received: by prxy.net (CommuniGate Pro PIPE 4.2.10) with PIPE id 25773856; Wed, 30 Nov 2005 03:02:24 -0800 X-ListServer: CommuniGate Pro LIST 4.2.10 List-Unsubscribe: List-ID: Message-ID: From: "Stagecraft" Sender: "Stagecraft" To: "Stagecraft" Precedence: list Subject: Stagecraft Digest #603 Date: Wed, 30 Nov 2005 03:01:16 -0800 MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="ISO-8859-1" Content-Disposition: inline X-Spam-Checker-Version: SpamAssassin 3.0.4 (2005-06-05) on prxy.net X-Spam-Status: No, score=-5.7 required=5.0 tests=ALL_TRUSTED,AWL,BAYES_00 autolearn=unavailable version=3.0.4 X-Spam-Level: X-TFF-CGPSA-Version: 1.4f2 X-prxy-Spam-Filter: Scanned For info, archives & UNSUBSCRIBE, see --------------------------------------------------- Stagecraft Digest, Issue #603 1. Re: How does a truss break? by "Bill Nelson" 2. Re: Actor snaps over ringing mobile by Bruce Purdy 3. Re: Actor snaps over ringing mobile by "Jeffrey E. Salzberg" 4. Re: Portable Staging by Cosmo Catalano 5. Re: Portable Staging by Steve Larson 6. Re: Planning for audience demographics was: Actor snaps over phone ring by Cosmo Catalano 7. Re: Where to get a paint sink in Chicago by "Bill Conner" 8. Stripping wallpaper by b Ricie 9. Re: OT Stripping wallpaper by Ford H Sellers 10. Re: OT Stripping wallpaper by "Paul Schreiner" 11. Paint sink by "David R. Krajec" 12. Re: How does a truss break? by "Cyr, Dale" 13. Re: Where to get a paint sink in Chicago by "Stephen E. Rees" 14. Re: Where to get a paint sink in Chicago by "Paul Guncheon" 15. Re: How does a truss break? by "Paul Schreiner" 16. Re: Planning for audience demographics was: Actor snaps overphone ring by FrankWood95 [at] aol.com 17. Re: Planning for audience demographics was: Actor snaps overphone ring by Steve Larson 18. Re: How does a truss break? by "Cyr, Dale" 19. Undeliverable mail: re: Graduate programs by Marty_Petlock [at] sarasotagov.com 20. Re: Actor snaps over ringing mobile by CB 21. OT: Super strong wood glue by FrankWood95 [at] aol.com 22. Re: How does a truss break? by Dale Farmer 23. Re: Super strong wood glue by "Josh Ratty" 24. Re: OT: Super strong wood glue by Dale Farmer 25. Re: OT: Super strong wood glue by Steve Larson 26. Re: Super strong wood glue by "Jeremiah Minh Greenblatt" 27. Re: OT: Super strong wood glue by FrankWood95 [at] aol.com 28. Re: How does a truss break? by "Cyr, Dale" 29. Re: OT: Super strong wood glue by Jerry Durand 30. Re: How does a truss break? by Bill Sapsis 31. Re: OT: Super strong wood glue by "Jon Lagerquist" 32. Actor snaps over ringing mobile by Paul Marsland 33. Re: OT: Super strong wood glue by MissWisc [at] aol.com 34. Re: OT: Super strong wood glue by "Davis, Thomas J" 35. Re: Undeliverable mail: re: Graduate programs by "Jon Ares" 36. Re: Undeliverable mail: re: Graduate programs by "James, Brian" 37. 50 Kilowatt House by Greg Bierly 38. Re: Undeliverable mail: re: Graduate programs by Bruce Purdy *** Please update the subject line of your reply to use the subject *** line of the message you are replying to! Please only reply to *** one message subject in each reply. ---------------------------------------------------------------------- Message-ID: <1062.208.51.52.81.1133262973.squirrel [at] webmail.peak.org> In-Reply-To: References: Date: Tue, 29 Nov 2005 03:16:13 -0800 (PST) Subject: Re: How does a truss break? From: "Bill Nelson" > while the truss was being raised, the top chords failed > at the center point (the chords separated from the connector plates), > showing a gap of about 1/8 inch. Not nearly enough information. Was the hoist stopped when the failure occurred? If so, was that the point where the gap existed? When the span was lowered to the ground, did the gaps remain? Did the chords themselves break or did they just separate from the plates? Was the lift applied to the bottom chords or just to the top two chords? Was the separation from top plates or side plates? Examination of the breaks would provide clues, but that might require use of a microscope. The services of a structural engineer who specializes in structural failure might be able to provide a definitive answer. Bill ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 29 Nov 2005 07:04:15 -0500 Subject: Re: Actor snaps over ringing mobile From: Bruce Purdy Message-ID: In-Reply-To: > Tonight, oddly enough on The Tonight Show, Someone's phone rang during the > monologue. Leno grabbed the phone from the guy and said " Hello, he > can't talk > to you because he is _watching the Tonight Show!_" I saw that too. I couldn't help but wonder though, whether it was real - or just might have been a planned "Stunt". Bruce -- Bruce Purdy Technical Director Smith Opera House ------------------------------ Reply-To: From: "Jeffrey E. Salzberg" Subject: RE: Actor snaps over ringing mobile Date: Tue, 29 Nov 2005 07:37:58 -0500 Message-ID: <000101c5f4e1$bd993300$6601a8c0 [at] Dell> In-Reply-To: > Not likely to happen in our theatre - 262 seats, a large > chunk occupied by "the blue rinse set". Occasionally we get > "walker gridlock" but that's about it ;=) Try working in Sarasota, where "hearing aid feedback" is a very real recurring problem. ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 29 Nov 2005 08:28:05 -0500 From: Cosmo Catalano Subject: RE: Portable Staging Cc: sschepker [at] charter.net Message-id: Steve-- If you really are only going to use it 6 to 8 inches off the floor, think about going with regular platform construction and frame out of the appropriately wide material. No legs, just carve feet out of the framing at the corners and mid span. If handled with reasonable care, they should last for years, and will be considerably less expensive than commercial products. Locking them together can be a problem requiring some hardware and accurate construction, however If they plan on using legs, then things get to be more complicated. I'd opt for platforms that use a standard pipe size for legs, easy to find and relatively cheap. At present, we have Steeldeck platforms. They are heavyish, but very quiet w/ thick ply tops with a dense neoprene foam on the bottom to reduce booming. We can get up to about 3ft high w/o bracing using 1.5" pipe legs. Because they use a simple truss for the framing members, it's relatively easy to add railings, stairs, facing etc. Cosmo ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 29 Nov 2005 09:00:43 -0500 Subject: Re: Portable Staging From: Steve Larson Message-ID: In-Reply-To: If you are going with regular platform construction, lock them together with casket locks. Properly installed they will last for years. Steve > From: Cosmo Catalano > Reply-To: "Stagecraft" > Date: Tue, 29 Nov 2005 08:28:05 -0500 > To: "Stagecraft" > Cc: sschepker [at] charter.net > Subject: Re: Portable Staging > > For info, archives & UNSUBSCRIBE, see > --------------------------------------------------- > > Steve-- > If you really are only going to use it 6 to 8 inches off the floor, > think about going with regular platform construction and frame out of > the appropriately wide material. No legs, just carve feet out of the > framing at the corners and mid span. If handled with reasonable care, > they should last for years, and will be considerably less expensive > than commercial products. Locking them together can be a problem > requiring some hardware and accurate construction, however > > If they plan on using legs, then things get to be more complicated. > I'd opt for platforms that use a standard pipe size for legs, easy to > find and relatively cheap. At present, we have Steeldeck platforms. > They are heavyish, but very quiet w/ thick ply tops with a dense > neoprene foam on the bottom to reduce booming. We can get up to about > 3ft high w/o bracing using 1.5" pipe legs. Because they use a simple > truss for the framing members, it's relatively easy to add railings, > stairs, facing etc. > > Cosmo > ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 29 Nov 2005 09:18:12 -0500 From: Cosmo Catalano Subject: Re: Planning for audience demographics was: Actor snaps over phone ring Message-id: <4ade8e20476742bddc6fad07e127b487 [at] williams.edu> As operator of a recently built theatre, we are finding that compliance w/ ADA does not mean your facility is "senior friendly". Our auditorium has a fairly complex arrangement of stairs, ramps and removable seating. Wheelchair users find it inviting and are pleased with the seat selection available to them. However, people not in wheelchairs, but who do not have full mobility have a difficult time negotiating the terrain. This is an increasing segment of the audience here, particularly in the summer. Some things to consider: --Make transitions (step edges, beginning and ends of ramps) visually clear with contrasting colors and/or materials. --Provide handrails at all steps and ramps, including entrances at seating aisles --Provide good illumination at these transition points, even if it is less than desirable from a theatre experience. --Provide a high quality audio feed for assisted listening headsets w/automatic gain controls to boost/cut loud and soft signal levels. --Signage should be clear with large high contrast letters To put yourself in the mood, try walking around your theatre with dirty sunglasses and roller skates on. This may seem to be excessive, but remember, soon it will be you that can't step down into the aisle w/o a hand rail.... Cosmo ------------------------------ Message-ID: <003201c5f4f4$22fed210$6601a8c0 [at] BCA1> Reply-To: "Bill Conner" From: "Bill Conner" Subject: Re: Where to get a paint sink in Chicago Date: Tue, 29 Nov 2005 08:49:43 -0600 Richard gives great advice. I usually recommend a clay trap be installed but that does imply it will get cleaned from time to time. Bill ------------------------------ Message-ID: <20051129145336.57105.qmail [at] web50605.mail.yahoo.com> Date: Tue, 29 Nov 2005 06:53:35 -0800 (PST) From: b Ricie Subject: Stripping wallpaper In-Reply-To: I have been helping a friend "white wash" a house in the hope that white walls will be a better selling aid than 1970's wallpaper. My friend bought some spray on goo from Zinsinnger(or something like that)to get the paper off the walls. The goo was kinda thick, non toxic, and did a nice job of braking down the glue. We ran out. I found some vinegar, mixed it with some warm water and it works better than the expensive goo. Faster, heck of a lot cheaper, also non toxic, and I can use it to clean the windows as well. I now have another way to give my money to the local grocer, instead of the big box chain. The more I use vinegar, the more I find a use for vinegar. good stuff. Brian Rice 508-685-0716 b_ricie [at] yahoo.com "Blessed are the cracked: For it is they who let in the light." __________________________________ Yahoo! Mail - PC Magazine Editors' Choice 2005 http://mail.yahoo.com ------------------------------ Message-Id: <6.2.3.4.2.20051129104300.04c622c0 [at] postoffice8.mail.cornell.edu> Date: Tue, 29 Nov 2005 10:49:55 -0500 From: Ford H Sellers Subject: Re: OT Stripping wallpaper In-Reply-To: References:

Distilled White Vinegar has more uses than Duct Tape!!! A few of the common uses: As a cleaner of electrical terminals-It get's the corrosion off and leaves everything Shiny Glass cleaner (mentioned before) Toilet bowl Cleaner (removes scale pretty darn well) Recently recommended by my pharmacist to sooth my dog's ear-mite problem until I can get her to the Vet Coffee Machine cleaner (Just ask Mr Coffee, or any Lutheran!!!) The list goes on, and on. Plus you can cook with it!!!! At 09:53 AM 11/29/2005, you wrote: >For info, archives & UNSUBSCRIBE, see >--------------------------------------------------- > >I have been helping a friend "white wash" a house in >the hope that white walls will be a better selling aid >than 1970's wallpaper. My friend bought some spray on >goo from Zinsinnger(or something like that)to get the >paper off the walls. The goo was kinda thick, non >toxic, and did a nice job of braking down the glue. We >ran out. I found some vinegar, mixed it with some warm >water and it works better than the expensive goo. >Faster, heck of a lot cheaper, also non toxic, and I >can use it to clean the windows as well. I now have >another way to give my money to the local grocer, >instead of the big box chain. The more I use vinegar, >the more I find a use for vinegar. good stuff. > > >Brian Rice >508-685-0716 >b_ricie [at] yahoo.com >"Blessed are the cracked: For it is they who let in the >light." > > > > >__________________________________ >Yahoo! Mail - PC Magazine Editors' Choice 2005 >http://mail.yahoo.com ************************ Ford H Sellers Master Electrician Cornell University Schwartz Center for the Performing Arts 430 College Avenue Ithaca NY, 14850 (607) 254-2736 office (607) 254-2733 fax ------------------------------ Subject: RE: OT Stripping wallpaper Date: Tue, 29 Nov 2005 10:59:02 -0500 Message-ID: <6E497ADB607656479C24E6D7BF6B505A042A9A5E [at] exchange.rmwc.edu> From: "Paul Schreiner" > Distilled White Vinegar has more uses than Duct Tape!!! >=20 > A few of the common uses: >=20 > The list goes on, and on. Plus you can cook with it!!!! Pour some baking soda down your bathroom/kitchen sink drains, and follow up with vinegar...does a pretty respectable job of cleaning out the drain, as long as it's not already completely clogged and stopped-up. ------------------------------ Reply-To: From: "David R. Krajec" Subject: Paint sink Date: Tue, 29 Nov 2005 10:23:29 -0600 Message-ID: In-Reply-To: In addition to a paint sink, you might also want to invest in a sediment trap. Many art departments have these. It will trap the heavier particles that are residual in as you wash out buckets and brushes and rollers. Back when I was teaching at TCU (1987) the paint sink stopped up. I called maintenance and they couldn't clear the clog. They ended up jack hammering the concrete floor to dig up the drain to discover that the six inch drain pipe was 100% clogged with latex paint from the last 50 years! David K. ------------------------------ Subject: RE: How does a truss break? Date: Tue, 29 Nov 2005 11:52:45 -0500 Message-ID: From: "Cyr, Dale" answers are in-line...=20 > -----Original Message----- > From: Stagecraft [mailto:stagecraft [at] theatrical.net] On Behalf=20 > Of Bill Nelson > > while the truss was being raised, the top chords failed > > at the center point (the chords separated from the=20 > connector plates), > > showing a gap of about 1/8 inch. >=20 > Not nearly enough information. Was the hoist stopped when the failure > occurred?=20 no. all 3 motors were in operation. this was a cable bridge, and it was meant to go another 20 feet (or so) further out. > If so, was that the point where the gap existed?=20 the gap existed between sections 2 and 3 of a 4 section truss. the center point was actually spansetted on section 3, next to the connector plate. it was section 2 that failed. > When the span was lowered to the ground, did the gaps remain?=20 no. (i suspected that the center motor was traveling slightly faster than the end motors.) > Did the chords themselves break or did they just separate from the plates?=20 there was a gusset welded across the chord and connector plate. the weld at the gusset / connector plate failed, manifesting itself as a open crack. this happened on both top chords, first the off stage side. it made a loud bang on the way out. it was lowered back in, briefly inspected, and raised back out. while going out the second time, it made another loud bang at about the same height. it was lowered back in and discovered that the onstage side had also failed. at that point, a spanset was added from the motor hook to the failed truss. the chords themselves did not break. > Was the lift applied to the bottom chords or just to the top two chords?=20 the lift was applied to the bottom chords in a normal manner. (choke the bottom chord, wrap the top chord, into a shackle at the motor hook) > Was the separation from top plates or side plates? i don't remember. (i think side plates. i don't remember if there were top plates.) >=20 > Examination of the breaks would provide clues, but that might=20 > require use of a microscope. The services of a structural engineer who > specializes in > structural failure might be able to provide a definitive answer. the cracks were readily apparent from 20 feet away. even so, i had the opportunity to inspect them from 2 feet away at one point. there was no apparent buckling, or damage, to the bottom chord / gusset /=20 connector plate. >=20 > Bill >=20 ------------------------------ Message-ID: <438C8D6D.4090700 [at] fredonia.edu> Date: Tue, 29 Nov 2005 12:18:37 -0500 From: "Stephen E. Rees" Reply-To: Rees [at] fredonia.edu Subject: Re: Where to get a paint sink in Chicago References: The best paint area sink I ever had was a stainless steel number that was surplus from a commercial kitchen with two deep wells, 2" drains, a corrugated sloped drain to one side and a serious sprayer (like a garden hose). Try those kind of surplus outlets first. Steve Rees William Auld wrote: > For info, archives & UNSUBSCRIBE, see > --------------------------------------------------- > > So I'm in the Chicago area and am looking for a good paint sink for our > shop. We finally haved moved our scene shop to a good facility and I am > looking to upgrade. Does anyone know where I can pick up a good paint > sink - not the utility sink you can buy at Home Depot but a real, honest > to god, belongs in a scene shop, one or two tub, paint sink? What is the > national company to get one from? (Can anyone look under theirs and see > who made it? Thanks!) > > Bill Auld > Technical Director > Lookingglass Theatre Company > > ------------------------------------------------------------------------ > Make FREE PC-to-PC calls with MSN Messenger. Get it now! > ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 29 Nov 2005 07:17:25 -1000 From: "Paul Guncheon" Subject: Re: Where to get a paint sink in Chicago Message-id: <002901c5f508$c5405bc0$1e8aea48 [at] yourxhtr8hvc4p> References: >Does anyone know where I can pick up a good paint > sink - not the utility sink you can buy at Home Depot but a real, honest > to god, belongs in a scene shop, one or two tub, paint sink? What is the > national company to get one from? (Can anyone look under theirs and see > who made it? Thanks!) You're in Chicago, the land of used restaurant fixtures. Measure the space you have for the sink and go to some of the used fixture places. As I remember, some were vastly more expensive than others. I recommend at least a two banger. Take an empty 5 gallon bucket and a roller pan. Some requirements and suggestions about paint clean up area in general: Have hot water. Controllable compressed air outlet. The sink should easily fit a 5 gallon bucket (preferably at least 2 of them) and roller pans. You should be able to rotate the roller pan 360 degrees without tipping it. Have hot water. I like the drain to be in one corner rather than the center. I stand a 6" tube of 1/4" hardware cloth in the drain to catch solids. I prefer a sink with a flat bottom and "square" rather than rounded corners Tall faucet that swivels to which you can attach a hose. A single handle model allows you to manipulate the temperature with one hand. One faucet for each sink, minimum. Have hot water. A hose bib somewhere else as well. One near the floor if there is a chance you'll need to run a hose for any length of time, otherwise at 3-4 feet off the floor. Good lighting is a must. GFI outlets and enough of them. Ventilation. The sink should be deep and at a level that allows you to stand straight when cleaning, but not so high as to make lifting a full 6 gallon bucket into it a Herculean chore like lifting it up to your neck to get it over the edge of the sink. Built in drain boards on both sides are great if you have room. Don't sacrifice a sink for one though. Have a design for a roller washer place that can be permanently installed (not attached to your only faucet) I've not used this one but one like it that I think I got from a vendor on this list... worked fabulous. http://shopping.microuse.com/products/detail/c/B0006VVFD4 Just remember to remove the roller sleeves from the frames once in a while. Oh, and have hot water. So do painters on the list like to dry their brushes bristles up or down? Personally I like to dry them bristles up so any residual paint runs into the ferrule leaving the bristle tips soft. Laters, Paul "I tripped over the lamp wire," Tom said cordially. ------------------------------ Subject: RE: How does a truss break? Date: Tue, 29 Nov 2005 12:29:29 -0500 Message-ID: <6E497ADB607656479C24E6D7BF6B505A042A9A5F [at] exchange.rmwc.edu> From: "Paul Schreiner" > there was a gusset welded across the chord and connector=20 > plate. the weld at the gusset / connector plate failed,=20 > manifesting itself as a open crack. this happened on both top=20 > chords, first the off stage side. it made a loud bang on the=20 > way out. it was lowered back in, briefly inspected, and=20 > raised back out. while going out the second time, it made=20 > another loud bang at about the same height. =20 About the same height? Loud bangs? There weren't any hidden obstacles to get clipped by an end of the truss, were there? Problems with one of the end hoists (say, the one on the end of the failed section) that caused the chain to seize up? My intuition tells me that "mere" uneven hoisting wouldn't manifest in a break of this type. You have two top chords, which didn't fail simultaneously, but in two separate iterations of the sequence. I'd have expected the second failure to happen sooner in the process (because it was bearing the entirety of the stresses this time, as opposed to sharing them with the other top chord the first time through) if it were the hoists themselves to blame. What kind of joint existed between the gusset and the plates involved? Was the gusset just butted up against the connector plate, or lapped under (thereby picking up the plate even after the weld failed)? ------------------------------ From: FrankWood95 [at] aol.com Message-ID: <201.ef5ce48.30bdedca [at] aol.com> Date: Tue, 29 Nov 2005 12:45:46 EST Subject: Re: Planning for audience demographics was: Actor snaps overphone ring In a message dated 29/11/05 00:17:22 GMT Standard Time, tiptd [at] theatreinthepark.com writes: > I don't understand. > > Steve What I was thinking of was parking spaces reserved for the disabled. Hence the point about bars and clubs and the public parking spaces. I was not clear. Frank Wood ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 29 Nov 2005 13:12:15 -0500 Subject: Re: Planning for audience demographics was: Actor snaps overphone ring From: Steve Larson Message-ID: In-Reply-To: Actually I understood that. I was vaguely stating that being close to a bar is good for a particular reason. Sorry. Steve > From: FrankWood95 [at] aol.com > Reply-To: "Stagecraft" > Date: Tue, 29 Nov 2005 12:45:46 EST > To: "Stagecraft" > Subject: Re: Planning for audience demographics was: Actor snaps overphone > ring > > For info, archives & UNSUBSCRIBE, see > --------------------------------------------------- > > In a message dated 29/11/05 00:17:22 GMT Standard Time, > tiptd [at] theatreinthepark.com writes: > >> I don't understand. >> >> Steve > > What I was thinking of was parking spaces reserved for the disabled. Hence > the point about bars and clubs and the public parking spaces. I was not clear. > > Frank Wood ------------------------------ Subject: RE: How does a truss break? Date: Tue, 29 Nov 2005 13:37:21 -0500 Message-ID: From: "Cyr, Dale" Answers are in-line...=20 > -----Original Message----- > From: Stagecraft [mailto:stagecraft [at] theatrical.net] On Behalf=20 > Of Paul Schreiner >=20 > > there was a gusset welded across the chord and connector=20 > > plate. the weld at the gusset / connector plate failed,=20 > > manifesting itself as a open crack. this happened on both top=20 > > chords, first the off stage side. it made a loud bang on the=20 > > way out. it was lowered back in, briefly inspected, and=20 > > raised back out. while going out the second time, it made=20 > > another loud bang at about the same height. =20 >=20 > About the same height?=20 it was hard to tell, actually. lots of chaos, shouting, noise, crowded conditions, during that load in. but both failures happened before trim height, but=20 quite a ways off the deck. i didn't have the same viewing angle for each break. the first one, I was close by, observing the fly out. when the bang happened, I saw the truss 'jump'. when they decided to fly it out again, i was observing from a nearby vom, and saw the truss jump again when the second gusset failed. the center of the truss appeared to jump upwards=20 (about a half inch) when it failed. > Loud bangs? =20 yes, the sound of the truss failing. (i've heard the sound before) > There weren't any hidden obstacles to get clipped by an end of=20 > the truss, were there?=20 no, we had a clear view of the entire truss. there were no obstacles in its path. it was a cable bridge, but no tight / stretched cables either. > Problems with one of the end hoists=20 > (say, the one on the end of the failed section) that > caused the chain to seize up? no. after the spanset was added, the truss was flown to trim, about 50 feet off the deck, with no problems. >=20 > My intuition tells me that "mere" uneven hoisting wouldn't=20 > manifest in a break of this type. You have two top chords, which didn't fail > simultaneously, but in two separate iterations of the sequence. I'd > have expected the second failure to happen sooner in the process > (because it was bearing the entirety of the stresses this time, as > opposed to sharing them with the other top chord the first=20 > time through) if it were the hoists themselves to blame. the first failure may have happened at a higher altitude than the second. it was hard to tell. no one was expecting a truss failure, and the (road guy) motor operator immediately flew the truss back in, observed the crack of the offstage gusset, and flew it back out under observation of another road guy (the head carpenter?)=20 until the other chord/gusset failed. >=20 > What kind of joint existed between the gusset and the plates involved? > Was the gusset just butted up against the connector plate, or lapped > under (thereby picking up the plate even after the weld failed)? i don't recall for sure, but I think the gusset, which was on the 'sides' of the truss, were under the top chord and butted to the connector plate. so, in other words, the gusset only filled in the corner, it didn't overlap either the chord or the connector plate. >=20 ------------------------------ Subject: Undeliverable mail: re: Graduate programs Message-ID: From: Marty_Petlock [at] sarasotagov.com Date: Tue, 29 Nov 2005 14:24:15 -0500 Failed to deliver to 'stagecraft [at] theatrical.net' LIST module(list stagecraft [at] theatrical.net) reports: Your message cannot be posted. It has the content-type: multipart/alternative, and this list accepts text only Reporting-MTA: dns; prxy.net Original-Recipient: rfc822; Final-Recipient: LIST; Action: failed Status: 5.0.0 Received: from internet.sarasotagov.com ([63.148.206.3] verified) by prxy.net (CommuniGate Pro SMTP 4.2.10) with ESMTP id 25762635 for stagecraft [at] theatrical.net; Tue, 29 Nov 2005 10:10:14 -0800 Received-SPF: none receiver=prxy.net; client-ip=63.148.206.3; envelope-from=Marty_Petlock [at] sarasotagov.com To: stagecraft [at] theatrical.net Subject: re: Graduate programs MIME-Version: 1.0 X-Mailer: Lotus Notes Release 5.0.9a January 7, 2002 Message-ID: From: Marty_Petlock [at] sarasotagov.com Date: Tue, 29 Nov 2005 12:04:55 -0500 X-MIMETrack: Serialize by Router on IMAIL/SARACITY(Release 5.0.12 |February 13, 2003) at 11/29/2005 01:18:24 PM, Serialize complete at 11/29/2005 01:18:24 PM Content-Type: multipart/alternative; boundary="=_alternative 005DD0D6852570C8_=" ------------------------------ Message-Id: <3.0.6.32.20051129122226.00cfde28 [at] pop.west.cox.net> Date: Tue, 29 Nov 2005 12:22:26 From: CB Subject: Re: Actor snaps over ringing mobile >Not really likely in a community theatre putting up 'Greater >Tuna' Well, it is, but in reverse... With apologies to those that put on "Greater Tuna" 'upstairs'. You know who you are. Chris "Chris" Babbie Location Sound MON AZ Delete key training and post trimming done by appointment. Rates negotiable, will trade for typing lessons/ADD treatment... ------------------------------ From: FrankWood95 [at] aol.com Message-ID: <1ad.43b637d0.30be441c [at] aol.com> Date: Tue, 29 Nov 2005 18:54:04 EST Subject: OT: Super strong wood glue I think it possible that this list may have on it someone with the knowledge. There I was, peacefully playing bridge tonight, when my left-hand opponent sneezed. No more than that, but the chair he was sitting on collapsed under him. The chairback and the two rear legs just broke away from the seat frame, and the legs separated from the back. No damage to him, but the chair is a total wreck. I have had such a failure repaired before. Since it is one of a set of four antique chairs, I should like to get it repaired. I know of the existence of some very strong wood glues. Can anyone help me with names and/or suppliers? The guy who did the last repair is, first, in France, and second, has retired. Frank Wood ------------------------------ Message-ID: <438CEDBF.EED36A65 [at] cybercom.net> Date: Tue, 29 Nov 2005 19:09:36 -0500 From: Dale Farmer Organization: The fuzz in the back of the fridge. Subject: Re: How does a truss break? References: "Cyr, Dale" wrote: > For info, archives & UNSUBSCRIBE, see > --------------------------------------------------- > > Answers are in-line... > > > -----Original Message----- > > From: Stagecraft [mailto:stagecraft [at] theatrical.net] On Behalf > > Of Paul Schreiner > > > > > > there was a gusset welded across the chord and connector > > > plate. the weld at the gusset / connector plate failed, > > > manifesting itself as a open crack. this happened on both top > > > chords, first the off stage side. it made a loud bang on the > > > way out. it was lowered back in, briefly inspected, and > > > raised back out. while going out the second time, it made > > > another loud bang at about the same height. > > > > About the same height? > it was hard to tell, actually. lots of chaos, shouting, noise, > crowded conditions, during that load in. > but both failures happened before trim height, but > quite a ways off the deck. > i didn't have the same viewing angle for each break. > the first one, I was close by, observing the fly out. > when the bang happened, I saw the truss 'jump'. > when they decided to fly it out again, i was observing > from a nearby vom, and saw the truss jump again when the > second gusset failed. > the center of the truss appeared to jump upwards > (about a half inch) when it failed. > > > Loud bangs? > yes, the sound of the truss failing. > (i've heard the sound before) > > > There weren't any hidden obstacles to get clipped by an end of > > the truss, were there? > no, we had a clear view of the entire truss. > there were no obstacles in its path. > it was a cable bridge, but no tight / stretched cables either. How heavy was the load of cable compared to the rating of the truss? Especially cable dangling off the ends that adds weight as the truss ascends. Cable is heavy. If the load was close to or exceeded SWL, and for some reason much of the weight ended up on the center point, then this would make sense. --Dale ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 29 Nov 2005 19:06:41 -0500 From: "Josh Ratty" Subject: RE: Super strong wood glue In-reply-to: Message-id: <002801c5f541$f1cf4820$0201000a [at] Rattys> It involves a bit more commitment but you may want to consider a two part epoxy. Consider something like West Systems, I would think it may be available on your side of the pond. This stuff holds wood like nothing I've ever seen. If you do go that route I would coat both sides first with just epoxy and let it set into the wood for a few minutes then use some thickened epoxy to hold the joint. Wood flour is good since you can get it match closely to wood color depending on what type you use. Check any boatbuilding suppliers for availability. Josh Ratty -----Original Message----- From: Stagecraft [mailto:stagecraft [at] theatrical.net] On Behalf Of FrankWood95 [at] aol.com Sent: Tuesday, November 29, 2005 6:54 PM To: Stagecraft Subject: OT: Super strong wood glue For info, archives & UNSUBSCRIBE, see --------------------------------------------------- I think it possible that this list may have on it someone with the knowledge. There I was, peacefully playing bridge tonight, when my left-hand opponent sneezed. No more than that, but the chair he was sitting on collapsed under him. The chairback and the two rear legs just broke away from the seat frame, and the legs separated from the back. No damage to him, but the chair is a total wreck. I have had such a failure repaired before. Since it is one of a set of four antique chairs, I should like to get it repaired. I know of the existence of some very strong wood glues. Can anyone help me with names and/or suppliers? The guy who did the last repair is, first, in France, and second, has retired. Frank Wood ------------------------------ Message-ID: <438CEF34.A00782F9 [at] cybercom.net> Date: Tue, 29 Nov 2005 19:15:48 -0500 From: Dale Farmer Organization: The fuzz in the back of the fridge. Subject: Re: OT: Super strong wood glue References: FrankWood95 [at] aol.com wrote: > For info, archives & UNSUBSCRIBE, see > --------------------------------------------------- > > I think it possible that this list may have on it someone with the knowledge. > > There I was, peacefully playing bridge tonight, when my left-hand opponent > sneezed. No more than that, but the chair he was sitting on collapsed under him. > The chairback and the two rear legs just broke away from the seat frame, and > the legs separated from the back. No damage to him, but the chair is a total > wreck. > > I have had such a failure repaired before. Since it is one of a set of four > antique chairs, I should like to get it repaired. I know of the existence of > some very strong wood glues. Can anyone help me with names and/or suppliers? The > guy who did the last repair is, first, in France, and second, has retired. > > Frank Wood I've become quite a fan of Gorilla Glue brand glue. Don't know if it is available in the UK. --Dale ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 29 Nov 2005 19:12:38 -0500 Subject: Re: OT: Super strong wood glue From: Steve Larson Message-ID: In-Reply-To: I would use Tite-Bond III. I have found that the joint will not separate. If the board(s) are forced, they will break in a new spot, not the repaired. I get it at Lowe's. Steve > From: FrankWood95 [at] aol.com > Reply-To: "Stagecraft" > Date: Tue, 29 Nov 2005 18:54:04 EST > To: "Stagecraft" > Subject: OT: Super strong wood glue > > For info, archives & UNSUBSCRIBE, see > --------------------------------------------------- > > I think it possible that this list may have on it someone with the knowledge. > > There I was, peacefully playing bridge tonight, when my left-hand opponent > sneezed. No more than that, but the chair he was sitting on collapsed under > him. > The chairback and the two rear legs just broke away from the seat frame, and > the legs separated from the back. No damage to him, but the chair is a total > wreck. > > I have had such a failure repaired before. Since it is one of a set of four > antique chairs, I should like to get it repaired. I know of the existence of > some very strong wood glues. Can anyone help me with names and/or suppliers? > The > guy who did the last repair is, first, in France, and second, has retired. > > > Frank Wood ------------------------------ From: "Jeremiah Minh Greenblatt" Subject: RE: Super strong wood glue Date: Tue, 29 Nov 2005 19:22:12 -0500 Message-ID: <000001c5f544$1f231020$0300a8c0 [at] Roadbox> In-reply-to: The danger with super-strong glues, especially with antiques, is of = course that the resulting glued joint is significantly stronger than the surrounding wood. Thus insuring (or at least encouraging) future breaks = to occur in less repairable locations. For this reason many restorers = insist on less hi-tech bonding methods. Just my thoughts, I apologize if they are obvious or cover previously trodden ground. - J.Minh ------------------------------ From: FrankWood95 [at] aol.com Message-ID: <233.28e6fc1.30be4b2c [at] aol.com> Date: Tue, 29 Nov 2005 19:24:12 EST Subject: Re: OT: Super strong wood glue In a message dated 30/11/05 00:13:05 GMT Standard Time, dale [at] cybercom.net writes: > > I've become quite a fan of Gorilla Glue brand glue. Don't know if it is > available in the UK. Thanks to those who have posted advice. Tomorrow, I shall look more closely at the problem I think it may be beyond me, and I shall have to find a professional. That's just as I sit at my computer and look at the debris. The time here is 00:23. Frank Wood ------------------------------ Subject: RE: How does a truss break? Date: Tue, 29 Nov 2005 19:34:03 -0500 Message-ID: From: "Cyr, Dale" i don't know what the load of the cable was, nor did I find out the load rating of the truss. i was "just a local" at that point, and the show guys were, uuummmmm... "reticent" to discuss specifics. but the usual comments of "we've always done it that way" were being bantered about, along side of explanations that the center point must have been low, and questions to the motor operator as to how it could have gotten that way. (he didn't have an answer) you bring up an interesting point tho... the cable was hanging off section 1. section 2 of the truss broke at the section 2 / section 3 boundry, at the center pick point. i spose its possible the motor 1, which would have been carrying the major part of the load (dragging the cable up from the floor) could have slowed down under load, causing motor 2 (the center motor) and motor 3 to rise slightly faster... whaddya think? > -----Original Message----- > From: Stagecraft [mailto:stagecraft [at] theatrical.net] On Behalf=20 > Of Dale Farmer > How heavy was the load of cable compared to the rating of > the truss? Especially cable dangling off the ends that adds weight > as the truss ascends. Cable is heavy. > If the load was close to or exceeded SWL, and for some reason > much of the weight ended up on the center point, then this would > make sense. >=20 > --Dale >=20 >=20 >=20 ------------------------------ Message-Id: <7.0.0.16.0.20051129164956.01f3e888 [at] interstellar.com> Date: Tue, 29 Nov 2005 16:51:30 -0800 From: Jerry Durand Subject: Re: OT: Super strong wood glue In-Reply-To: References:

At 04:15 PM 11/29/2005, you wrote: > I've become quite a fan of Gorilla Glue brand glue. Don't know if it is >available in the UK. It's also available from other manufacturers, like "Elmer's Ultimate Glue". My wife's built some outdoor furniture with it, holds great! -- Jerry Durand Durand Interstellar, Inc. 219 Oak Wood Way Los Gatos, California 95032-2523 USA tel: +1 408 356-3886, USA toll free: 1 866 356-3886 web: www.interstellar.com ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 29 Nov 2005 19:53:08 -0500 Subject: Re: How does a truss break? From: Bill Sapsis Message-ID: In-Reply-To: Bingo! Hoist # 1 would most definitely have been running slower. There are no 2 chain hoists with a standard AC motor that will run at exactly the same speed. That's why you have to watch the truss very closely, especially if the out rim is really high. Things can get out of whack quickly. Add to that the fact that a hoist with more weight will run slower than a neighbor that doesn't have the(roughly) same amount of weight on it. I hate making assumptions, especially about things I haven't seen, but I think you might be on to something. Bill S. www.sapsis-rigging.com 800.727.7471 800.292.3851 fax 267.278.4561 mobile Join the Long Reach Long Riders on their 3rd annual cross country charity motorcycle ride. On 11/29/05 7:34 PM, "Cyr, Dale" wrote: > i spose its possible the motor 1, which would have been > carrying the major part of the load > (dragging the cable up from the floor) > could have slowed down under load, > causing motor 2 (the center motor) and motor 3 to rise > slightly faster... > > whaddya think? ------------------------------ From: "Jon Lagerquist" Date: Tue, 29 Nov 2005 17:08:02 -0800 Subject: Re: OT: Super strong wood glue Reply-to: jon [at] lagerquist.com Message-ID: <438C8AF2.6202.D58E0B [at] localhost> In-reply-to: References: These are generically polyurethane glues. And they are a great class of adhesives. But to do true repair on a chair like Franks, I would retreat to the time honored _Hide_Glue_ which is very likely what it was built with. It is not as strong as some more modern adhesives, which is a positive thing in this case. It also has good filling capabilities and is somewhat flexible. > > I've become quite a fan of Gorilla Glue brand glue. Don't know if > > it is > >available in the UK. > > It's also available from other manufacturers, like "Elmer's Ultimate > Glue". My wife's built some outdoor furniture with it, holds great! Jon Lagerquist Technical Director [at] South Coast Repertory Costa Mesa, CA ------------------------------ Message-ID: <20051130013332.38678.qmail [at] web52205.mail.yahoo.com> Date: Tue, 29 Nov 2005 17:33:32 -0800 (PST) From: Paul Marsland Subject: Actor snaps over ringing mobile In-Reply-To: My favorite cell phone in the audience story, from the FOH sound guy on the Miss Saigon First National tour; "Hello?" -- "Yea, watching Miss Saigon" -- "nahh" -- Paul __________________________________ Yahoo! Mail - PC Magazine Editors' Choice 2005 http://mail.yahoo.com ------------------------------ From: MissWisc [at] aol.com Message-ID: <226.2d5992a.30be5dae [at] aol.com> Date: Tue, 29 Nov 2005 20:43:10 EST Subject: Re: OT: Super strong wood glue I've built lots of furnature with good old Elmer's carpenters glue (Elmer's Wood Glue). Not fancy, but it works. Clamp well and let dry for at least a day before use. Kristi ------------------------------ Subject: RE: OT: Super strong wood glue Date: Tue, 29 Nov 2005 21:29:13 -0500 Message-ID: <3CF87682970858499CA56707FB1F092B9FE415 [at] wscc-s-003000.westshore.edu> From: "Davis, Thomas J" Cc: jon [at] lagerquist.com I've repaired quite a few older pieces. I'm guessing Frank's chair has mortise and tenon joints (much of this can be applied to doweled and other joints as well). If this is the case, often the real cause is that after a couple hundred years, the joint no longer fits tightly. You can use an epoxy or polyurethane glue to fill the gap, but what I would recommend is to build up the mortise with a layer or 2 of thin veneer (bonded with urethane if you like, or hide glue), sand or plane as needed to get a good fit, and once the joint fits well, use the hide glue to effect the repair. By the way, using traditional materials in your repairs may help maintain the value of an antique piece. Tom Davis (who built and repaired furniture during his starving artist days) _______________________________________________________ Jon wrote: These are generically polyurethane glues. And they are a great class=20 of adhesives. But to do true repair on a chair like Franks, I would=20 retreat to the time honored _Hide_Glue_ which is very likely what it=20 was built with. It is not as strong as some more modern adhesives,=20 which is a positive thing in this case. It also has good filling=20 capabilities and is somewhat flexible. > > I've become quite a fan of Gorilla Glue brand glue. Don't know if > > it is > >available in the UK. >=20 > It's also available from other manufacturers, like "Elmer's Ultimate > Glue". My wife's built some outdoor furniture with it, holds great! Jon Lagerquist Technical Director [at] South Coast Repertory Costa Mesa, CA ------------------------------ Message-ID: <000501c5f56c$2563d5a0$0600000a [at] BRUTUS> From: "Jon Ares" References: Subject: Re: Undeliverable mail: re: Graduate programs Date: Tue, 29 Nov 2005 21:08:48 -0800 Am I the only one that gets Marty's undeliverable mail?? - Jon Ares www.hevanet.com/acreative ----- Original Message ----- From: To: "Stagecraft" Sent: Tuesday, November 29, 2005 11:24 AM Subject: Undeliverable mail: re: Graduate programs > For info, archives & UNSUBSCRIBE, see > --------------------------------------------------- > > Failed to deliver to 'stagecraft [at] theatrical.net' > LIST module(list stagecraft [at] theatrical.net) reports: > Your message cannot be posted. > It has the content-type: multipart/alternative, > and this list accepts text only > > Reporting-MTA: dns; prxy.net > > Original-Recipient: rfc822; > Final-Recipient: LIST; > Action: failed > Status: 5.0.0 > Received: from internet.sarasotagov.com ([63.148.206.3] verified) > by prxy.net (CommuniGate Pro SMTP 4.2.10) > with ESMTP id 25762635 for stagecraft [at] theatrical.net; Tue, 29 Nov 2005 > 10:10:14 -0800 > Received-SPF: none > receiver=prxy.net; client-ip=63.148.206.3; > envelope-from=Marty_Petlock [at] sarasotagov.com > To: stagecraft [at] theatrical.net > Subject: re: Graduate programs > MIME-Version: 1.0 > X-Mailer: Lotus Notes Release 5.0.9a January 7, 2002 > Message-ID: > > From: Marty_Petlock [at] sarasotagov.com > Date: Tue, 29 Nov 2005 12:04:55 -0500 > X-MIMETrack: Serialize by Router on IMAIL/SARACITY(Release 5.0.12 > |February 13, 2003) at > 11/29/2005 01:18:24 PM, > Serialize complete at 11/29/2005 01:18:24 PM > Content-Type: multipart/alternative; boundary="=_alternative > 005DD0D6852570C8_=" > > > > ------------------------------ Subject: RE: Undeliverable mail: re: Graduate programs Date: Wed, 30 Nov 2005 00:11:07 -0500 Message-ID: From: "James, Brian" Nope -----Original Message----- From: Stagecraft [mailto:stagecraft [at] theatrical.net]On Behalf Of Jon Ares Sent: Wednesday, November 30, 2005 12:09 AM To: Stagecraft Subject: Re: Undeliverable mail: re: Graduate programs For info, archives & UNSUBSCRIBE, see --------------------------------------------------- Am I the only one that gets Marty's undeliverable mail?? - Jon Ares www.hevanet.com/acreative ----- Original Message -----=20 From: To: "Stagecraft" Sent: Tuesday, November 29, 2005 11:24 AM Subject: Undeliverable mail: re: Graduate programs > For info, archives & UNSUBSCRIBE, see = > --------------------------------------------------- > > Failed to deliver to 'stagecraft [at] theatrical.net' > LIST module(list stagecraft [at] theatrical.net) reports: > Your message cannot be posted. > It has the content-type: multipart/alternative, > and this list accepts text only > > Reporting-MTA: dns; prxy.net > > Original-Recipient: rfc822; > Final-Recipient: LIST; > Action: failed > Status: 5.0.0 > Received: from internet.sarasotagov.com ([63.148.206.3] verified) > by prxy.net (CommuniGate Pro SMTP 4.2.10) > with ESMTP id 25762635 for stagecraft [at] theatrical.net; Tue, 29 Nov = 2005 > 10:10:14 -0800 > Received-SPF: none > receiver=3Dprxy.net; client-ip=3D63.148.206.3; > envelope-from=3DMarty_Petlock [at] sarasotagov.com > To: stagecraft [at] theatrical.net > Subject: re: Graduate programs > MIME-Version: 1.0 > X-Mailer: Lotus Notes Release 5.0.9a January 7, 2002 > Message-ID: > = > From: Marty_Petlock [at] sarasotagov.com > Date: Tue, 29 Nov 2005 12:04:55 -0500 > X-MIMETrack: Serialize by Router on IMAIL/SARACITY(Release 5.0.12 > |February 13, 2003) at > 11/29/2005 01:18:24 PM, > Serialize complete at 11/29/2005 01:18:24 PM > Content-Type: multipart/alternative; boundary=3D"=3D_alternative > 005DD0D6852570C8_=3D" > > > >=20 ------------------------------ Message-Id: <7ab57124b6fdb131d09b63c9ea65c557 [at] dejazzd.com> From: Greg Bierly Subject: 50 Kilowatt House Date: Wed, 30 Nov 2005 00:57:00 -0500 > http://www.snopes.com/photos/arts/xmaslights.asp > "Carson Williams of Mason, Ohio ... used 88 Light-O-Rama channels > to control his 16,000 christmas lights." This is bringing up the Christmas display again. Just got this off another list and has details as to the software,hardware, specs, and how-to. I am sure inquiring minds want to know. Greg Bierly Technical Director Hempfield HS ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 30 Nov 2005 01:48:19 -0500 Subject: Re: Undeliverable mail: re: Graduate programs From: Bruce Purdy Message-ID: In-Reply-To: > Am I the only one that gets Marty's undeliverable mail?? > No - so do I. (Although I wonder why.) Bruce -- Bruce Purdy Technical Director Smith Opera House ------------------------------ End of Stagecraft Digest #603 *****************************