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X-Real-To: stagecraftlist [at] theatrical.net Received: by prxy.net (CommuniGate Pro PIPE 4.2.10) with PIPE id 25975591; Mon, 12 Dec 2005 03:02:01 -0800 X-ListServer: CommuniGate Pro LIST 4.2.10 List-Unsubscribe: List-ID: Message-ID: From: "Stagecraft" Sender: "Stagecraft" To: "Stagecraft" Precedence: list Subject: Stagecraft Digest #616 Date: Mon, 12 Dec 2005 03:01:28 -0800 MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="ISO-8859-1" Content-Disposition: inline X-Spam-Status: No, score=-5.5 required=5.0 tests=ALL_TRUSTED,AWL,BAYES_00, SARE_MILLIONSOF,TW_HX autolearn=ham version=3.0.4 X-Spam-Checker-Version: SpamAssassin 3.0.4 (2005-06-05) on prxy.net X-Spam-Level: X-TFF-CGPSA-Version: 1.4f2 X-prxy-Spam-Filter: Scanned For info, archives & UNSUBSCRIBE, see --------------------------------------------------- Stagecraft Digest, Issue #616 1. Re: ethernet cable by Charlie Richmond 2. Re: Flying a kite by "Paul Guncheon" 3. Re: Ethernet 101 by Charlie Richmond 4. Re: Ethernet 101 by Simon Newton 5. Re: Flying a Kite by Michael L. Cristaldi 6. overhauling arbors by b Ricie 7. Re: ethernet cable by "Bill Conner" 8. Corroded sockets... by "Steve Jones" 9. Re: ethernet cable by "Bill Conner" 10. Re: Corroded sockets... by Dale Farmer 11. Re: Flying a Kite by "Stephen E. Rees" 12. Re: Corroded sockets... by "Stephen E. Rees" 13. Re: Flying a Kite by "ladesigners [at] juno.com" 14. Re: Corroded sockets... by MissWisc [at] aol.com 15. Re: ethernet cable by Jim Hyslop 16. Re: Corroded sockets... by "Jon Ares" 17. Re: Ethernet 101 by Jim Hyslop 18. Re: Ethernet 101 by FrankWood95 [at] aol.com 19. Re: ethernet cable by Mitch Hefter 20. Re: ethernet cable by Mitch Hefter 21. Re: overhauling arbors by FrankWood95 [at] aol.com 22. Re: Corroded sockets... by FrankWood95 [at] aol.com 23. Re: overhauling arbors by Dale Farmer 24. Re: Corroded sockets... by "Donald A Rowe" 25. Re: ethernet cable by FrankWood95 [at] aol.com 26. Re: Corroded sockets... by "John Gibilisco" 27. Re: ethernet cable by Charlie Richmond 28. Re: ethernet cable by Charlie Richmond 29. Re: overhauling arbors by Jim Hyslop 30. Re[2]: overhauling arbors by "Frank E. Merrill" 31. Re: Corroded sockets... by Patrick McCreary 32. Figuring mechanical advantage by Michael Heinicke 33. Re: Ethernet 101 by Mick Alderson 34. Re: ethernet cable by Greg Bierly 35. Re: ethernet cable by Charlie Richmond 36. Re: Figuring mechanical advantage by "Jim at TheatreWireless.com" 37. Re: Figuring mechanical advantage by Patrick McCreary 38. Re: Ethernet 101 by Simon Newton 39. Re: Ethernet 101 by Jim Hyslop 40. Re: Ethernet 101 by Jim Hyslop 41. Re: Corroded sockets... by James Feinberg 42. Re: ethernet cable by "Bill Nelson" 43. Re: Ethernet 101 by "Bill Nelson" 44. Re: Figuring mechanical advantage by "Bill Nelson" 45. Re: Figuring mechanical advantage by "Bill Nelson" 46. Re: Corroded sockets... by "Bill Nelson" 47. Re: Ethernet 101 by "Jeffrey E. Salzberg" 48. Strong Spotlights by "pam" *** Please update the subject line of your reply to use the subject *** line of the message you are replying to! Please only reply to *** one message subject in each reply. ---------------------------------------------------------------------- Date: Sun, 11 Dec 2005 11:29:13 +0000 (GMT) From: Charlie Richmond Subject: Re: ethernet cable In-Reply-To: Message-ID: References: On Sat, 10 Dec 2005, Greg Bierly wrote: > I know to be fair it really wasn't an ethernet system failure but the crew > was really wishing for a hard line DMX input anywhere in the system to just > get the show up and running. Sheesh. This is a really bogus example of why ethernet MIGHT not be better! There are all sorts of ways that shutting power off to any type of critical system component can stop the show - including DMX splitters, which are equivalent to ethernet switches but far more expensive.... And if your crew wants some backup 'direct' DMX lines there's surely a way to do it... Just like you can have a backup ethernet network... Charlie ------------------------------ Date: Sun, 11 Dec 2005 01:29:49 -1000 From: "Paul Guncheon" Subject: Re: Flying a kite Message-id: <000501c5fe46$332ab590$1e8aea48 [at] yourxhtr8hvc4p> References: <> Great knot site: http://www.netknots.com/ Laters, Paul "I've just written the first two words of my "Ode to a Bic" announced Tom, openly. ------------------------------ Date: Sun, 11 Dec 2005 11:45:32 +0000 (GMT) From: Charlie Richmond Subject: Re: Ethernet 101 In-Reply-To: Message-ID: References: On Sat, 10 Dec 2005, Dale Farmer wrote: A very excellent summary of ethernet with only a few nits to pick: > to deal with. It uses only two of the pairs in the four pair cable. Gigabit ethernet uses all four pairs. > say during that big finale. Adding in a active device I suspect this should be finished thusly: Adding in an active device such as a switch at any point within the 100m limit will easily extend the distance essentially as far as you need to go unless fibre is available. And to tie this in to a previous thread, adding active ethernet devices does not add any perceptible latency to a system, since most switches pass the data within microseconds. > Pulling the cable hard, bending it tightly around corners, untwisting > the pairs in the connector will cause loss of signal, and increase > noise in the cable. Leading to data loss. a bad thing. Patch cables > are cheap, toss them when they get damaged. This is generally true only for gigabit ethernet but good advice nevertheless. > Wireless works for laptops. Not aware of any theatrical > devices that use it. Interesting discussion has resulted from this statement. Since so many theatrical functions are now done with software running on laptops, to say that a notebook computer running 'theatrical' (or sound or show control or lighting) software is not a theatrical device is silly in my opinion ;-) Many sound designers use their computers with a wireless link in order to tech shows from different locations in the house. > other information from the DHCP server. For show control, > you may prefer not to use DHCP. Most show control apps do not require hard coded IP addresses. > This is lightly skimming over lots of stuff, so don't count > this as anything near definitive. But it is extremely well done! Thanks, Dale ;-) Charlie ------------------------------ Subject: Re: Ethernet 101 From: Simon Newton In-Reply-To: References: Date: Sun, 11 Dec 2005 21:49:53 +0800 Message-Id: <1134308993.4889.17.camel [at] localhost.localdomain> On Sat, 2005-12-10 at 17:35 -0500, Dale Farmer wrote: > For info, archives & UNSUBSCRIBE, see > --------------------------------------------------- > > > > Mick Alderson wrote: > Now that the physical stuff is out of the way, there are the > network addressing and ports, and the protocols. Just to clarify here the difference between Ethernet and IP. I've noticed everyone seems to talk about DMX over Ethernet when really it's DMX over IP. Just because it can use Ethernet doesn't mean it *has* to. The Ethernet family of standards work at the physical and data-link layers. They define the phyiscal characteristics of the network media (as Mick described so well above) as well as the format of the frames that travel on the wire. Ethernet also defines the physical addressing of the devices (these are the MAC addresses) IP operates at the network layer. It provides the logical addressing and provides end to end connectivity and path selection. It is independant of the lower two layers meaning that you can use IP over more than just Ethernet. What follows is Mick's discussion of IP addressing. Cheers, Simon N > > What runs over the wire is packets of data. The packets > have to be addressed. The address is in the form of > 123.123.123.123 (may be written in binary, octal, or hex > as well. ) each number can be in the range of 0-255. 0 and > 255 are reserved, all other numbers are available for use on > a network, and you cannot have any duplications. The other > common error is the subnet address. A common one is > 255.255.255.0 which leaves you 253 available addresses > in that subnet. The subnet address becomes important if > you have a larger network with routers. I am ignoring IPv6. > Assuming that you have a network that is not connected > to a larger network or the internet, you can use any of those > addresses you desire. For a show control network, it should > be stand alone. You don't want some hacker to break in and > take control of your show. > One method commonly in use to allocate addresses is > called DHCP. You program the DHCP server with the > addresses and other information you need, and then the > devices you hook up can then get an available address and > other information from the DHCP server. For show control, > you may prefer not to use DHCP. > Your IT department has lots of knowledge about using > ethernet and deploying it correctly. The key things are that > you want a show control network that is not connected to > the internet, except when you need that access for > maintenance purposes. You also want high security on > that show control network if you are using wireless access. > You probably also want a regular internet access network > in the theater. This is useful during rehearsals, lectures, and > for downloading software updates for your gear. > > This is lightly skimming over lots of stuff, so don't count > this as anything near definitive. > > --Dale > > ------------------------------ In-Reply-To: References: Message-Id: <0d3cf2461f327d914b9feb4d98772bef [at] staldi.org> From: Michael L. Cristaldi Subject: Re: Flying a Kite Date: Sun, 11 Dec 2005 10:04:50 -0500 Go fly a kite? NO FISHING LINE!!! No matter what you do with the lighting, it's been my experience that you will always see a synthetic line; directionality of the light does not help. The line catches the light and refracts it back out, and if it's a colored line it will simply refract the light with a color. Using gun blue is one way of getting away with nylon line, as it allows very little light to pass through, but it is still additive color, which will change to subtractive when you bounce light through it. The best is to use natural fiber line, silk being the strongest for its size. You should be able to find this from a magician supply place. Silk thread will be pretty easy to hide, but to go one step further, bridle the lines supporting the kite. Your audience will be looking for the line above the kite, not beside. Gravity works, even for misdirection! When lighting the effect try playing with your color mix before moving the lights to a new position. Color is often more important than incident angle for an illusion like this. Good luck, staldi ------------------------------ Message-ID: <20051211160111.21883.qmail [at] web50612.mail.yahoo.com> Date: Sun, 11 Dec 2005 08:01:11 -0800 (PST) From: b Ricie Subject: overhauling arbors In-Reply-To: >>How much out of balance is the arbor? What is the situation? Does it have to move fast or just get in? Is it a single or double purchase counterweight system? -Delbert<< Again, it is mostly curiosity,but to give it a face lets call it a Nutcracker tree. In the last venue I played the tree was rigged to a double purchase lineset. The house has a full fly loft and all the linesets have a full range of travel. The majority of linesets are run from the deck and sink into a well. The upstage linesets jump over the loading door and are run from the loading rail. When the tree is fully rigged and weighted it is in balance at its full height. The in trim is kept by block and fall, and the extra weight on the arbor works perfect for the effect. My curiosity comes in getting the thing rigged and de-rigged. Call the tree 300lbs. That is 600lbs on the double purchase system, and the only way to sling that weight is from the loading rail(due to the jump). I am wondering the best way/ways to manage that kind of weight when the arbor is in the extreme up position as well as the best way/ways to get that arbor up there. I have been doing this for years, and experimented with different methods(probably worth some points toward the rigging certification)I was just wondering if there is another method I may have over looked. I understand some overhauling is unavoidable, but how much weight might be considered too much? Brian Rice 508-685-0716 b_ricie [at] yahoo.com "Blessed are the cracked: For it is they who let in the light." __________________________________________________ Do You Yahoo!? Tired of spam? Yahoo! Mail has the best spam protection around http://mail.yahoo.com ------------------------------ Message-ID: <003601c5fe6d$7a75fb90$6901a8c0 [at] BCA1> Reply-To: "Bill Conner" From: "Bill Conner" Cc: billn [at] peak.org (Bill Nelson) References: <1130.208.51.52.90.1134267883.squirrel [at] webmail.peak.org> Subject: Re: ethernet cable Date: Sun, 11 Dec 2005 10:11:00 -0600 Bill N Posted: " That is standard for Ethernet. All devices listen to all packets - then pass to their software anything addressed to them (or to all devices). For Ethernet DMX, the end Ethernet devices are usually nodes - which extract the proper universe (or universes) of DMX signals to pass on to the DMX devices attached to that node. At the new high school, each node has two output ports. Each port can be addressed to a different universe - or both to the same universe. There is one node on each front of house bridge and one node on each electric." What you describe is the basic star plan of one node on the end of each home-run and is what I've been laying out for buildings for 5 years or so. For economical use of Ethernet with moving lights I believe a daisy chain or topology free arrangement be desirable. My understanding is there is a slight delay each time the data passes through a hub or switch and that if each moving light in effect had a switch in it, the cumulative delay might be an issue. So, are you affirming that there is no delay what-so-ever when data passes through any switch device? Thanks. Bill C. ----- Original Message ----- From: "Bill Nelson" To: "Bill Conner" Cc: "Stagecraft" Sent: Saturday, December 10, 2005 8:24 PM Subject: Re: ethernet cable >> I probably used the wrong terminology. I simply meant some device that >> allows a piece of gear with Ethernet in and out to suck data off an >> Ethernet >> and not delay the data to the gear downstream. A cat 5 twofer that >> works. > > > Bill > > > > > ------------------------------ From: "Steve Jones" Subject: Corroded sockets... Date: Sun, 11 Dec 2005 10:11:20 -0600 Organization: Plaza Theatre In-Reply-To: Message-ID: Here's a question (3 parter): The theatre I manage has a 1940's marquee out front with hundreds of small globe lights. As we continue to do final refinishing touches and general maintenance on the theatre, I am attempting to replace many burnt out bulbs. Of course, over 50% have corroded to some point and won't screw out. We gently twist and wiggle and coax them any way we can until they "break free" and then we screw them out. But many simply just end up having broken globes and we end up having to dig them out of the sockets. My question is three parts: 1) Is there anything I can use that will make removing these bulbs easier? Ideally, some type of spray that could be directed into the socket around the edge of the base (with the power to the marquee cut off, of course) that would help loosen them, without leaving nasty residue that will be harder to clean out of the socket ? 2) Is there anything we can use to clean the sockets out with once the bulb is removed? 3) Is there anything we can apply to the socket or bulb base that will help prevent corrosion? Of course, the marquee is out doors and exposed to all weather conditions. We also need the solution to not cause electrical problems. Any suggestions? Thanks! Steve ************************************* Steve Jones, Director Plaza Theatre 115 E. Main Street Glasgow, KY 42141 Voice: (270) 361-2101 Fax: (270) 834-8147 http://www.glasgowplazatheatre.org SOLD OUT! Patty Loveless - Friday, October 21, 7PM STILL AVAILABLE! Kathy Mattea - Saturday, December 10, 7PM ------------------------------ Message-ID: <003a01c5fe6f$c7d46e60$6901a8c0 [at] BCA1> Reply-To: "Bill Conner" From: "Bill Conner" Subject: Re: ethernet cable Date: Sun, 11 Dec 2005 10:27:28 -0600 Greg posted: "First week at a new facility the House Crew couldn't turn any stage lights on for a childrens show. Finally they resorted to turning on a bunch of test switches on the brand new ETC Sensor racks. After a service call later in the day it was determined a contractor turned off power to the network switch above the audience ceiling and powered down the entire NET 2 hub." It took a week to figure out something was not turned on? Was this not covered in the training? If a new building, why didn't you call the manufacturer's 800 number and ask for help right away - I'm sure the factory project manager could get you to this problem quickly. I'm becoming less sympathetic to problems resulting from things being unplugged or turned off - surely more than 90% of tech service problems. If that DMX line had to go through a splitter or any other device and it was turned off, the lights wouldn't turn on either. (I rather have all active devices in an stage managers rack either in the control room or on stage but understand that isn't always possible. Still, they should be in readily accessible locations.) Bill C. ------------------------------ Message-ID: <439C5F76.4F10C9C3 [at] cybercom.net> Date: Sun, 11 Dec 2005 12:18:46 -0500 From: Dale Farmer Organization: The fuzz in the back of the fridge. Subject: Re: Corroded sockets... References: Steve Jones wrote: > For info, archives & UNSUBSCRIBE, see > --------------------------------------------------- > > Here's a question (3 parter): > > The theatre I manage has a 1940's marquee out front with hundreds of small > globe lights. As we continue to do final refinishing touches and general > maintenance on the theatre, I am attempting to replace many burnt out bulbs. > Of course, over 50% have corroded to some point and won't screw out. We > gently twist and wiggle and coax them any way we can until they "break free" > and then we screw them out. But many simply just end up having broken > globes and we end up having to dig them out of the sockets. My question is > three parts: > > 1) Is there anything I can use that will make removing these bulbs easier? > Ideally, some type of spray that could be directed into the socket around > the edge of the base (with the power to the marquee cut off, of course) that > would help loosen them, without leaving nasty residue that will be harder to > clean out of the socket ? > > 2) Is there anything we can use to clean the sockets out with once the bulb > is removed? > > 3) Is there anything we can apply to the socket or bulb base that will help > prevent corrosion? > > Of course, the marquee is out doors and exposed to all weather conditions. > We also need the solution to not cause electrical problems. > > Any suggestions? I have seen sockets that used stainless steel, but since this sort of arrangement is against NEC, I doubt if they are still available. Check out carnival lighting resources, this would be a common problem with them. They also make the sockets easily replaceable. What is the budget for the overhaul? One idea I've been playing with for this sort of thing is to use optical fiber bundles from an interior light source. The technology is around, and you can do all sorts of interesting effects with color changers. clusters of LED lamps onto regular screw bases is another option. These are available in the highway signage market. --Dale ------------------------------ Message-ID: <439C6251.10703 [at] fredonia.edu> Date: Sun, 11 Dec 2005 12:30:57 -0500 From: "Stephen E. Rees" Reply-To: Rees [at] fredonia.edu Subject: Re: Flying a Kite References: There is fishing line called "Firewire" that does not reflect like monofilament but i can't remember who makes it. Got it at Mall-Wart the last time I needed it. Steve Rees Michael L. Cristaldi wrote: > For info, archives & UNSUBSCRIBE, see > --------------------------------------------------- > > Go fly a kite? > NO FISHING LINE!!! > ------------------------------ Message-ID: <439C6312.9050302 [at] fredonia.edu> Date: Sun, 11 Dec 2005 12:34:10 -0500 From: "Stephen E. Rees" Reply-To: Rees [at] fredonia.edu Subject: Re: Corroded sockets... References: Steve, A trick my mother taught me was to use a half potato to turn the broken lamp and base in the socket. I'll leave the electrical stuff to others. Steve Steve Jones wrote: > For info, archives & UNSUBSCRIBE, see > --------------------------------------------------- > > Here's a question (3 parter): > > The theatre I manage has a 1940's marquee out front with hundreds of small > globe lights. [snip] ------------------------------ From: "ladesigners [at] juno.com" Date: Sun, 11 Dec 2005 17:45:43 GMT Subject: Re: Flying a Kite Message-Id: <20051211.094607.9696.36477 [at] webmail31.lax.untd.com> I have it on good authority from Benjamin Franklin that tinsel is anothe= r poor choice of materials to be used as kite string, particularly durin= g a thunderstorm... /s/ Richard _________________________ > = > Go fly a kite? > NO FISHING LINE!!! > ------------------------------ From: MissWisc [at] aol.com Message-ID: <2bb.2139b4a.30cdc723 [at] aol.com> Date: Sun, 11 Dec 2005 13:17:07 EST Subject: Re: Corroded sockets... steve.jones [at] glasgowplazatheatre.org writes: << Is there anything I can use that will make removing these bulbs easier?>> A few ideas: My dad used a thing he called "silicone tuner tonic" to clean corroded/dirty electrical parts. It's in a spray can with a straw that attaches to the top so you can get into smaller places. Usually a one second squirt of that and let it sit for a bit would loosen most electrical things. I don't know the specific brand name, but I bet someone else on the list might. It's designed to loosen mechanical radio "pots". I'd suggest that ol' stand by "WD-40" as a preventive. Cover the surface and don't wipe. These guys make things that are used by a lot of electric guitar techs. This looks like they have things that might work though I've not used them personally: _http://store.caig.com/s.nl/alias.caigstore/.f_ (http://store.caig.com/s.nl/alias.caigstore/.f) HTH Kristi ------------------------------ Message-ID: <439C6EF2.1090001 [at] dreampossible.ca> Date: Sun, 11 Dec 2005 13:24:50 -0500 From: Jim Hyslop Organization: Dreampossible Inc. Subject: Re: ethernet cable References: <1130.208.51.52.90.1134267883.squirrel [at] webmail.peak.org> In-Reply-To: Bill Conner wrote: > So, are you affirming that there is no delay what-so-ever when data > passes through any switch device? OK, first a disclaimer: I'm not a DMX expert, but I do have quite a bit of experience in the computer Ethernet-TCP/IP world. The delay is likely most pronounced on routers, not quite as pronounced on switces, and barely noticeable on hubs (for more info on the difference between routers, switches and hubs, have a look on Wikipedia: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Router, http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Network_switch and http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Hub_%28computer%29 ). Even on routers, the delay is probably measured in microseconds, or possibly a very few milliseconds. Especially if it's a dedicated network with no other traffic on it. OK, so what does all this really mean when you get down to practical applications? Let me put it this way: the last company I worked for produced television broadcast equipment. When controlling video processing devices, precision is absolutely critical: a delay that would be unnoticeable to the human eye could cause equipment to lose synchronization. While the human eye might not notice the delay itself, it would certainly notice the results of loss-of-sync. Our equipment used ethernet and TCP/IP to successfully control these devices, sometimes on very busy subnets. So with DMX/Ethernet interfaces, I think it's extremely unlikely anyone would notice any delays. -- Jim Hyslop ------------------------------ Message-ID: <001d01c5fe80$8a86b480$0600000a [at] BRUTUS> From: "Jon Ares" Cc: Rees [at] fredonia.edu References: Subject: Re: Corroded sockets... Date: Sun, 11 Dec 2005 10:27:28 -0800 > A trick my mother taught me was to use a half potato to turn the broken > lamp and base in the socket. How?? - Jon Ares www.hevanet.com/acreative ------------------------------ Message-ID: <439C7823.5080002 [at] dreampossible.ca> Date: Sun, 11 Dec 2005 14:04:03 -0500 From: Jim Hyslop Organization: Dreampossible Inc. Subject: Re: Ethernet 101 References: In-Reply-To: Simon Newton wrote: > For info, archives & UNSUBSCRIBE, see > --------------------------------------------------- > > On Sat, 2005-12-10 at 17:35 -0500, Dale Farmer wrote: > >>For info, archives & UNSUBSCRIBE, see >>--------------------------------------------------- >> >> >> >>Mick Alderson wrote: > > > > >> Now that the physical stuff is out of the way, there are the >>network addressing and ports, and the protocols. > > > Just to clarify here the difference between Ethernet and IP. I've > noticed everyone seems to talk about DMX over Ethernet when really it's > DMX over IP. Just because it can use Ethernet doesn't mean it *has* to. > > The Ethernet family of standards work at the physical and data-link > layers. They define the phyiscal characteristics of the network media > (as Mick described so well above) as well as the format of the frames > that travel on the wire. Ethernet also defines the physical addressing > of the devices (these are the MAC addresses) > > IP operates at the network layer. It provides the logical addressing and > provides end to end connectivity and path selection. It is independant > of the lower two layers meaning that you can use IP over more than just > Ethernet. Just to round this out a little (hopefully without bringing in too much technobabble) network communications are divided into 7 distinct layers, known as the OSI Model. The lowest layer, the physical layer, is concerned with the electrical transmission of the data: what connectors does it use, what type of wire does it use (including impedance, # and type of wires, twisted-pair vs. shielded, etc. etc.), what voltage levels, how is each bit encoded, and so on. Or, if it's wireless, what frequency is used, how is it encoded, and so on. Other than hooking up cables, we don't need to worry about this layer unless we're electronics engineers designing a new system. Layer 2 is the Data Link layer, which is the level Ethernet operates at. It answers the question "How do we bundle up these bits to ensure that they go to the right machine?" This is the layer that has the physical address of the device. Every Ethernet-enabled device in the world has a unique physical address, called a MAC. Again, we don't need to worry about this layer - it's for software programmers who are writing protocol stacks. Layer 3 is the network layer. This is the IP ("Internet Protocol") layer. This is the lowest layer that most people ever need to deal with, configuring the IP address as Mick touched on. This layer allows us to group network devices into the subnets. This layer takes the IP address contained in the IP packet, and matches it up with the MAC address. Layers 4 and up contain other layers of information, and finally, at layer 7, we have the DMX protocol itself. Wikipedia has a good overview of the 7-layer model: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/OSI_model (have a look at the James Bond analogy, linked in at the end of the Wikipedia article: it provides a very clear, succint summary of what happens). -- Jim Hyslop ------------------------------ From: FrankWood95 [at] aol.com Message-ID: <20b.f80c47a.30cdd423 [at] aol.com> Date: Sun, 11 Dec 2005 14:12:35 EST Subject: Re: Ethernet 101 In a message dated 11/12/05 01:55:40 GMT Standard Time, billn [at] peak.org writes: > One local highschool just built a new theatre and they are using an > Expression console over EDMX (Ethernet DMX). One accessory available is a > wireless remote - really nice for focussing lights or doing light checks. Are you sure that it isn't IR? We had one with our old Impuls control. It works fine, but, being line-of-sight, is much impeded by the forest of structural steel among which our lighting bridges live. And it is strictly wireless! Frank Wood ------------------------------ Message-Id: <6.1.0.6.2.20051211123638.0322ef08 [at] mail.DesignRelief.com> Date: Sun, 11 Dec 2005 13:26:43 -0600 From: Mitch Hefter Subject: Re: ethernet cable In-Reply-To: References: Mick Alderson wrote: >OK guys. Anybody got a suggestion on how somebody with nothing but >interest (and a desire not to be a ludite) can get started on learning >this stuff? Sort of an "ABC's of Ethernet for Theatre?" Is there a >booklet along the lines of "Recommended Practice for DMX-512" that would >help one get started on understanding ethernet and it's application to >theatre systems? At least enough to follow the converation? Bill Conner wrote: >Dale F posted: "Well, the only zero latency Ethernet device that exists is a >very short piece of cable." > >I probably used the wrong terminology. I simply meant some device that >allows a piece of gear with Ethernet in and out to suck data off an Ethernet >and not delay the data to the gear downstream. A cat 5 twofer that works. No such thing as twofer for Ethernet. To split, you need an Ethernet Hub or Switch. Latency should not be a huge issue, as DMX512 is 250kbps and the Ethernet implementations our industry are using are at 10 Mbps or higher. If you have latency issues, you may be sharing your network with other implementations (e.g., an office network) that are hogging the network or experiencing problems. Andy Ciddor wrote: >Have a look at "Rock Solid Ethernet" a recent book by Wayne Howell of >Artistic Licence. Good choice. Other resources - USITT: http://www.usitt.org/commissions/usitt04Networks-Protocols.pdf This is a 1. MB PDF file of a presentation on "Networking and Control Protocols for the Entertainment Industry" at the 2004 USITT Annual Conference. The latter half covers Ethernet and TCP/IP networking. Ethernet is only one part of the way we network. ESTA: http://www.esta.org/tsp/documents/published_docs.php The last 2 items on that page are the "Recommended Practice for Ethernet Cabling Systems in Entertainment Lighting Applications" and the "Supplement to the Recommended Practice for Ethernet Cabling Systems in Entertainment Lighting Applications." You need both, as the supplement goes into twisted pair cabling which is not heavily discussed in the base version. Dale Farmer wrote: >The things you gotta worry about is the 100 meter limit for each >link. Standard says 90 meters in the walls, and the other ten meters >are for patch cables at each end. You can go longer distances, >but this will lead to sporadic failures under heavy network usage, >say during that big finale. You can sometimes get by with a few feet more at 10Mbps, but not at 100 Mbps. Don't even chance it. Your certified network installer should never even allow such an installation, nor are you likely to get much support, if any, if you exceed the distances. The installation standard for structured cabling is ANSI/TIA/EIA-568 and ISO/IEC 11801. Some implementations of Ethernet at 100 Mbps use all 4- pairs of a Cat 5 or Cat 6 cable. 1000 Mbps does use all 4- pairs. A majority of DMX512 over Ethernet devices run at 10 Mbps now, but this will likely change. 100 Mbps hardware and implementation are more expensive and difficult on the manufacturing side, but these factors are improving. Dale Farmer also wrote: > Fiber is immune to EMI/RFI, and the usual max limit for >non-laser links is about 11 kilometers of cable, so if you have a >long way to go, it is the way to go. Fiber costs more money. > Wireless works for laptops. Not aware of any theatrical >devices that use it. Depending on the fiber and the particular protocol and speed, fiber runs can be as short as 220 meters. There are lots of variables to consider. Entertainment Technology, Strand Lighting, and ETC all use Wireless Ethernet (IEEE 802.11) for RFUs. Others may as well. There have been numerous presentations on Networking for our industry at USITT and LDI over the past few years, with another one set for USITT 2006 in Louisville. . . . ------------------------------------------------------------------ Mitch Hefter heftermk [at] DesignRelief.com Office: Entertainment Technology / a Division of the Genlyte Group mhefter [at] genlyte.com ------------------------------ Message-Id: <6.1.0.6.2.20051211132026.032140a8 [at] mail.DesignRelief.com> Date: Sun, 11 Dec 2005 13:27:04 -0600 From: Mitch Hefter Subject: Re: ethernet cable In-Reply-To: References: Greg Bierly wrote: >First week at a new facility the House Crew couldn't turn any stage >lights on for a childrens show. Finally they resorted to turning on a >bunch of test switches on the brand new ETC Sensor racks. After a >service call later in the day it was determined a contractor turned off >power to the network switch above the audience ceiling and powered down >the entire NET 2 hub. I see the benefits of CAT-5 but to play devil's >advocate, It adds more things that could go wrong. They could just have easily shut power down to a DMX512 splitter. Just seems a matter of training and getting used to the new system. It's much more the same than different. . . . ------------------------------------------------------------------ Mitch Hefter heftermk [at] DesignRelief.com Office: Entertainment Technology / a Division of the Genlyte Group mhefter [at] genlyte.com ------------------------------ From: FrankWood95 [at] aol.com Message-ID: <12b.6b7aa2c2.30cdddab [at] aol.com> Date: Sun, 11 Dec 2005 14:53:15 EST Subject: Re: overhauling arbors In a message dated 11/12/05 16:02:51 GMT Standard Time, b_ricie [at] yahoo.com writes: > What is the situation? > > Does it have to move fast or just get in? > > Is it a single or double purchase counterweight > system? Or, perhaps, something else. Consider trying to counterweight the operating lines on an olio drop. The load on these is light when it's out, increasing dramatically as it flies in. The only solution that occurrs to me is to use heavy chains collecting in a bucket, but this would be very noisy. Frank Wood ------------------------------ From: FrankWood95 [at] aol.com Message-ID: Date: Sun, 11 Dec 2005 15:10:16 EST Subject: Re: Corroded sockets... In a message dated 11/12/05 16:13:28 GMT Standard Time, steve.jones [at] glasgowplazatheatre.org writes: > But many simply just end up having broken > globes and we end up having to dig them out of the sockets. My question is > three parts: > > 1) Is there anything I can use that will make removing these bulbs easier? > Ideally, some type of spray that could be directed into the socket around > the edge of the base (with the power to the marquee cut off, of course) that > would help loosen them, without leaving nasty residue that will be harder to > clean out of the socket ? The trouble will be that the corrosion bond is stronger than the globe-to-cap cement. Penetrating oils may help, but these are usually formulated for steel to steel rust bonds. The cement bond is quite weak. > > 2) Is there anything we can use to clean the sockets out with once the bulb >Mild abrasives, or less mild ones are all I can suggest. is removed? > > 3) Is there anything we can apply to the socket or bulb base that will help > prevent corrosion? There used to be a spray compound called ''MS4", made by Midland Silicones. I have found this very good. I have used it on anything from automotive ignition systems and battery terminals to mains plugs and sockets used on oper-air shows. > > Of course, the marquee is out doors and exposed to all weather conditions. > We also need the solution to not cause electrical problems. Frank Wood ------------------------------ Message-ID: <439C8866.F4DCC8AC [at] cybercom.net> Date: Sun, 11 Dec 2005 15:13:26 -0500 From: Dale Farmer Organization: The fuzz in the back of the fridge. Subject: Re: overhauling arbors References: FrankWood95 [at] aol.com wrote: > For info, archives & UNSUBSCRIBE, see > --------------------------------------------------- > > In a message dated 11/12/05 16:02:51 GMT Standard Time, b_ricie [at] yahoo.com > writes: > > > What is the situation? > > > > Does it have to move fast or just get in? > > > > Is it a single or double purchase counterweight > > system? > > Or, perhaps, something else. Consider trying to counterweight the operating > lines on an olio drop. The load on these is light when it's out, increasing > dramatically as it flies in. The only solution that occurrs to me is to use heavy > chains collecting in a bucket, but this would be very noisy. Fill the buckets with a heavish oil. used motor oil comes to mind. You would have to take suitable fire precautions, of course. --Dale ------------------------------ Message-ID: <003901c5fe8f$ce1099a0$0201a8c0 [at] hsd1.pa.comcast.net> From: "Donald A Rowe" References: Subject: Re: Corroded sockets... Date: Sun, 11 Dec 2005 15:16:43 -0500 Some WD-40 might break the corrosion and help prevent future corrosion. I've found that battery terminal cleaner from advanced auto parts eats corrosion very quickly and leaves a coating when it's done. I've used it on plugs and it didn't affect the plastic. As to pulling out broken bulbs when they are really bad I just destroy the light bulb base and peel it out like opening a sardine can with needle nose pliers. ----- Original Message ----- From: "Steve Jones" To: "Stagecraft" Sent: Sunday, December 11, 2005 11:11 AM Subject: Corroded sockets... > For info, archives & UNSUBSCRIBE, see > --------------------------------------------------- > > Here's a question (3 parter): > > The theatre I manage has a 1940's marquee out front with hundreds of small > globe lights. As we continue to do final refinishing touches and general > maintenance on the theatre, I am attempting to replace many burnt out bulbs. > Of course, over 50% have corroded to some point and won't screw out. We > gently twist and wiggle and coax them any way we can until they "break free" > and then we screw them out. But many simply just end up having broken > globes and we end up having to dig them out of the sockets. My question is > three parts: > > 1) Is there anything I can use that will make removing these bulbs easier? > Ideally, some type of spray that could be directed into the socket around > the edge of the base (with the power to the marquee cut off, of course) that > would help loosen them, without leaving nasty residue that will be harder to > clean out of the socket ? > > 2) Is there anything we can use to clean the sockets out with once the bulb > is removed? > > 3) Is there anything we can apply to the socket or bulb base that will help > prevent corrosion? > > Of course, the marquee is out doors and exposed to all weather conditions. > We also need the solution to not cause electrical problems. > > Any suggestions? > > Thanks! > > Steve > > > ************************************* > Steve Jones, Director > Plaza Theatre > 115 E. Main Street > Glasgow, KY 42141 > Voice: (270) 361-2101 > Fax: (270) 834-8147 > http://www.glasgowplazatheatre.org > > > SOLD OUT! Patty Loveless - Friday, October 21, 7PM > > STILL AVAILABLE! Kathy Mattea - Saturday, December 10, 7PM > > ------------------------------ From: FrankWood95 [at] aol.com Message-ID: <62.62cdf27e.30cde2f9 [at] aol.com> Date: Sun, 11 Dec 2005 15:15:53 EST Subject: Re: ethernet cable In a message dated 11/12/05 16:29:16 GMT Standard Time, bill-conner [at] att.net writes: > I'm becoming less > sympathetic to problems resulting from things being unplugged or turned > off - surely more than 90% of tech service problems. If that DMX line had > to go through a splitter or any other device and it was turned off, the > lights wouldn't turn on either. (I rather have all active devices in an > stage managers rack either in the control room or on stage but understand > that isn't always possible. Still, they should be in readily accessible > locations.) Not everybody has your analytical skills, nor the time to apply them. With curtain-up rapidly approaching, a certain degree of panic is admissible. I certainly agree that all active devices need to be accessible at all times. Frank Wood ------------------------------ Message-ID: <002b01c5fe97$5cde0c60$6400a8c0 [at] om.cox.net> From: "John Gibilisco" References: Subject: Re: Corroded sockets... Date: Sun, 11 Dec 2005 15:10:49 -0600 > 3) Is there anything we can apply to the socket or bulb base that will help > prevent corrosion? Gardner Bender Electrical makes a paste compound in 1 ounce tubes called Ox-Guard. I have always purchased it Westlake ACE Hardware. I think Lowes also carries it. Costs around 3.75 a tube. I've used it for the same problem with a lamp over the kitchen sink. John Gibilisco Omaha Playhouse ------------------------------ Date: Sun, 11 Dec 2005 21:57:42 +0000 (GMT) From: Charlie Richmond Subject: Re: ethernet cable In-Reply-To: Message-ID: References: <1130.208.51.52.90.1134267883.squirrel [at] webmail.peak.org> On Sun, 11 Dec 2005, Bill Conner wrote: > What you describe is the basic star plan of one node on the end of each > home-run and is what I've been laying out for buildings for 5 years or so. > For economical use of Ethernet with moving lights I believe a daisy chain or > topology free arrangement be desirable. By "daisy chain" do you mean a hub or switch at each instrument with three cables connected to each one ('previous', 'next' and 'instrument')? If so, then a hub would probably be adequate for this application and very cheap ($10 or so in quantities). > My understanding is there is a slight delay each time the data passes through > a hub or switch and that if each moving light in effect had a switch in it, > the cumulative delay might be an issue. As stated before by myself and others, delays in switches are microseconds at most and in hubs effectively none at all so there would be literally on the delay equal to about half the speed of light involved (300,000km/second) which is pretty damn fast... ;-) Charlie ------------------------------ Date: Sun, 11 Dec 2005 22:02:07 +0000 (GMT) From: Charlie Richmond Cc: bill [at] bcaworld.com (Bill Conner) Subject: Re: ethernet cable In-Reply-To: Message-ID: References: On Sun, 11 Dec 2005, Bill Conner wrote: > It took a week to figure out something was not turned on? We have everyone in the place primed to ask a few simple questions when anyone calls with problems (and train them how to do it without offending....): 1. Is it plugged in? 2. It is switched on? 3. Are the lights blinking? 4. Should they be blinking? ;-) Even the bookkeeper knows what the various answers to these questions will mean and where to refer them next (depending on if the equipment is ours or not!!! ;-) Charlie ------------------------------ Message-ID: <439CAC41.3060604 [at] dreampossible.ca> Date: Sun, 11 Dec 2005 17:46:25 -0500 From: Jim Hyslop Organization: Dreampossible Inc. Subject: Re: overhauling arbors References: In-Reply-To: Dale Farmer wrote: > Fill the buckets with a heavish oil. used motor oil comes to mind. > You would have to take suitable fire precautions, of course. Sounds pretty messy to me. I was thinking you could wrap the chains in a sleeve of heavy fabric, maybe something cut from some old main curtains that might be lying around. -- Jim Hyslop ------------------------------ Date: Sun, 11 Dec 2005 17:57:50 -0500 From: "Frank E. Merrill" Reply-To: "Frank E. Merrill" Message-ID: <14910003099.20051211175750 [at] tcon.net> Subject: Re[2]: overhauling arbors In-Reply-To: References: Howdy ! Sunday, December 11, 2005, Jim Hyslop wrote: > I was thinking you could wrap the chains in a sleeve of heavy > fabric, maybe something cut from some old main curtains The problem with recycling old stage curtains is that the flameproofing remains in most fabrics and, if used to enclose metals, will rust or otherwise corrode those metals. If the old curtains are flameproofed cotton, they may be taken apart and the pieces may be laundered to remove the flameproofing so you can enclose metals, but then you'd have to apply flameproofing chemicals to them to avoid the glare of the fire guys... Best regards, Frank E. Merrill MERRILL STAGE EQUIPMENT Indianapolis Established 1946 www.merrillstage.com Running THE BAT! Natural e-mail system v.3.60 mailto:Lamplighter [at] tcon.net ------------------------------ Date: Sun, 11 Dec 2005 18:20:39 -0500 From: Patrick McCreary Subject: Re: Corroded sockets... In-reply-to: Message-id: <5.2.1.1.1.20051211181118.01ed3038 [at] incoming.verizon.net> References: At 10:11 AM 12/11/2005 -0600, you wrote: >For info, archives & UNSUBSCRIBE, see >--------------------------------------------------- > >1) Is there anything I can use that will make removing these bulbs easier? Sears auto stores used to sell a battery terminal spreader, rather like pliers in reverse, that I've been using for years on empty sockets; even works for medium pre-focus. >Ideally, some type of spray that could be directed into the socket around >the edge of the base (with the power to the marquee cut off, of course) that >would help loosen them, without leaving nasty residue that will be harder to >clean out of the socket ? You could try penetrating oil, but it may not work well on brass. >2) Is there anything we can use to clean the sockets out with once the bulb >is removed? Back to sears - terminal clamp brush - tapered wire brush with a small handle. >3) Is there anything we can apply to the socket or bulb base that will help >prevent corrosion? Go to a real electrical supplier, (Graybar or some other of that ilk) and tell them what you need - there are products specifically design for the purpose - No Al Ox, or something like that, IIRC. Good luck. Patrick G. Patrick McCreary Ass't. Professor - Technical Director Department of Theater and Dance Indiana University of Pennsylvania Indiana, PA 15701 (Office) 724-357-2644 (Home) 724-349-4309 ------------------------------ Message-ID: <20051211235220.76482.qmail [at] web81502.mail.mud.yahoo.com> Date: Sun, 11 Dec 2005 15:52:20 -0800 (PST) From: Michael Heinicke Subject: Figuring mechanical advantage I think I am suffering from a temproary brain block, so I am turning to the list for suggestions: I am playing around with some block and tackle designs other than what is in the Backstage Handbook and I'm having some problems figuring out the forces and the associated mechanical advantage or disadvantage. Can anyone recommend a good explanation of mechanical advantage/disadvantage in block and tackle systems? So far my searches of the net and my references haven't been very helpful. Thanks, Mike H ------------------------------ Message-ID: <439CBBB2.4070804 [at] uwosh.edu> Date: Sun, 11 Dec 2005 17:52:18 -0600 From: Mick Alderson Subject: RE: Ethernet 101 My thanks to Dale Farmer and all who responded. I will follow up on the suggested references. Dale wrote: > The packets > have to be addressed. The address is in the form of > 123.123.123.123 ... The other > common error is the subnet address. A common one is > 255.255.255.0 ... The subnet address becomes important if > you have a larger network with routers. I am ignoring IPv6. So the first address is the address for a given router, and the subnet address is for individual devices on that router? (That almost makes sense, as though one might specify a particular DMX universe by number, then the device number on it, rather than the sequential numbering system DMX usually uses.) I've heard about IPv6, and its theoretical ability to give an address to every atom in the Universe. Is it expected that this will do away with subnet addresses? -- Mick Alderson TD, Fredric March Theatre University of Wis. Oshkosh ------------------------------ In-Reply-To: References: Message-Id: <6773c9b034484e1a7dcac869fdb6fcf5 [at] dejazzd.com> From: Greg Bierly Subject: Re: ethernet cable Date: Sun, 11 Dec 2005 19:16:46 -0500 > It took a week to figure out something was not turned on? Was this > not covered in the training? If a new building, why didn't you call > the manufacturer's 800 number and ask for help right away - I'm sure > the factory project manager could get you to this problem quickly. To clarify. I was not house crew even though I attended the ETC training but the guy in charge at the time was sound guy that had an attitude and didn't even want me there. The system worked fine the performance the night before (and the week before for turn-on) but the rigging contractors were still working third shift for two months after the building opened and pretty POed since they were working at another venue first and second shift. We are still not sure if they accidentally or intentionally turned off the power to the rack (it did have a UPS that did finally ran out of juice). They were the only ones still working above the auditorium. Again I was not present that morning and only heard about it later. I don't know the sequence of events and who was called when. They had been having all kinds of problems at turn on due to NET-1/NET-2 issues so they thought that was the issue for reasons too in depth to bore you with here. I do agree with the fact a DMX isolator or splitter could have been in place of the ethernet hub but a dmx checker could have solved that easily. Yes I know Ethernet test equipment is available but at a premium cost and huge learning curve. Remember I am playing devil's advocate and am a strong advocate for ethernet DMX distribution. I see it does have huge advantages but it brings with it a whole other level of expertise needed. Greg Bierly Technical Director Hempfield HS ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 12 Dec 2005 00:27:36 +0000 (GMT) From: Charlie Richmond Subject: Re: ethernet cable In-Reply-To: Message-ID: References: On Sun, 11 Dec 2005, Greg Bierly wrote: > advocate for ethernet DMX distribution. I see it does have huge advantages > but it brings with it a whole other level of expertise needed. Interesting point. The expertise needed for ethernet is general IT knowledge mostly and normally comes with people in departments other than production (except perhaps sound, which has used it extensively for years) but is new for stagehands and lighting people. This means that latter group needs to get their chops together in order to protect their domain perhaps -- and this might be why some are a bit techy about this ;-) But it is both an advantage that ethernet experts are currently a dime a dozen but a disadvantage that they don't normally hang out in theatres outside regular office hours... Charlie ------------------------------ From: "Jim at TheatreWireless.com" Subject: RE: Figuring mechanical advantage Date: Sun, 11 Dec 2005 20:09:44 -0500 In-Reply-To: Message-Id: <20051212010950.CWPI9608.tomts16-srv.bellnexxia.net [at] p3m866> > Can anyone recommend a > good explanation of mechanical advantage/disadvantage in > block and tackle systems? When the rope travels twice as far, the effort required to move it is half. So, if you pull a 100 pound object 10 feet with a rope (1:1) you must exert 100 pounds of force for 10 feet. Put one stage of block and tackle in the line and you must now pull the rope 20 feet, but with only 50 pounds of force. Two stages of block and tackle and you will pull the rope 40 feet, but with only 25 pounds of force. More stages = more rope = less effort for a longer time (at a given pulling speed). Notice the similarity to, for instance, using two pulleys with a belt. When the drive pulley is half the diameter of the load pulley, it will do twice as many rotations as the load pulley, but the effort required will be half. It's all linear. Jim www.theatrewireless.com ------------------------------ Date: Sun, 11 Dec 2005 20:13:33 -0500 From: Patrick McCreary Subject: Re: Figuring mechanical advantage In-reply-to: Message-id: <5.2.1.1.1.20051211200818.01ed1890 [at] incoming.verizon.net> At 03:52 PM 12/11/2005 -0800, you wrote: >For info, archives & UNSUBSCRIBE, see >--------------------------------------------------- > >I think I am suffering from a temproary brain block, >so I am turning to the list for suggestions: >I am playing around with some block and tackle designs >other than what is in the Backstage Handbook and I'm >having some problems figuring out the forces and the >associated mechanical advantage or disadvantage. Can >anyone recommend a good explanation of mechanical >advantage/disadvantage in block and tackle systems? So >far my searches of the net and my references haven't >been very helpful. > >Thanks, >Mike H Count the lines between the blocks - don't count the one you're pulling on - there's your mechanical advantage. The displacement advantage is the inverse. A seven-line rig has a mechanical advantage of 7; 5 pounds of pull means 35 pounds of lift (disregarding friction, of course); - and a 1/7 displacement advantage; - 35 feet of pull means 5 feet of lift. There are good and bad ways to reeve the lines, though - the Crosby web site has instructions, IIRC. Patrick G. Patrick McCreary Ass't. Professor - Technical Director Department of Theater and Dance Indiana University of Pennsylvania Indiana, PA 15701 (Office) 724-357-2644 (Home) 724-349-4309 ------------------------------ Subject: Re: Ethernet 101 From: Simon Newton In-Reply-To: References: Date: Mon, 12 Dec 2005 10:16:32 +0800 Message-Id: <1134353792.4903.7.camel [at] localhost.localdomain> On Sun, 2005-12-11 at 17:52 -0600, Mick Alderson wrote: > For info, archives & UNSUBSCRIBE, see > --------------------------------------------------- > > My thanks to Dale Farmer and all who responded. I will follow up on the > suggested references. > > Dale wrote: > > The packets > > have to be addressed. The address is in the form of > > 123.123.123.123 ... The other > > common error is the subnet address. A common one is > > 255.255.255.0 ... The subnet address becomes important if > > you have a larger network with routers. I am ignoring IPv6. > > So the first address is the address for a given router, and the subnet > address is for individual devices on that router? (That almost makes > sense, as though one might specify a particular DMX universe by number, > then the device number on it, rather than the sequential numbering > system DMX usually uses.) Yes, the subnet mask tells you which part of the address is the network portion and which part belongs to the host. The subnet mask is bitwise and'ed with the address to produce the network address. So an address of 123.123.123.123 with an netmask of 255.255.255.0 means the 123rd device on the 123.123.123.0 network. > > I've heard about IPv6, and its theoretical ability to give an address to > every atom in the Universe. Is it expected that this will do away with > subnet addresses? No. Subnets are intergral to the operation of IP. It's the ability to group hosts into subnets that makes the Internet work. Simon N ------------------------------ Message-ID: <439CE4D0.9030908 [at] dreampossible.ca> Date: Sun, 11 Dec 2005 21:47:44 -0500 From: Jim Hyslop Organization: Dreampossible Inc. Subject: Re: Ethernet 101 References: In-Reply-To: Mick Alderson wrote: > My thanks to Dale Farmer and all who responded. I will follow up on the > suggested references. > > Dale wrote: > >> The packets >> have to be addressed. The address is in the form of >> 123.123.123.123 ... The other >> common error is the subnet address. A common one is >> 255.255.255.0 ... The subnet address becomes important if >> you have a larger network with routers. I am ignoring IPv6. (minor correction: 255.255.255.0 is actually a "subnet mask" not a "subnet address" - the distinction will become more apparent later in this message). > So the first address is the address for a given router, and the subnet > address is for individual devices on that router? No, actually it's more complicated than that. First, a bit of explanation of the purpose of a subnet. A subnet allows you to partition your main network into smaller networks. As was mentioned earlier in this thread, every data packet that a device sends out automatically goes to each device on a network. This means that every device examines every packet that comes in, looking for any packet is destined for that device. Clearly, on a large network (such as the Internet with millions of connected devices) this will be not only inefficient but also a not-insignificant security problem. You need to limit how far data packets go. The limit is the subnet: data packets do not leave the subnet, unless their destination is in a different subnet. To determine which subnet a device is on, you need to figure out its subnet address. If two devices have the same subnet address, they are on the same subnet. A subnet address, though, is incomplete - you can't send anything to a subnet address, just like you can't drop a letter with an address "Toronto, ON, Canada" in the mailbox and expect it to be delivered. To figure out a subnet address, you take a device's IP address, and filter it through the subnet mask. Basically, in a subnet mask 255 means "match everything" and 0 means "don't match anything" (it's actually more complicated than that - see the 'technobabble' footnote at the end of this message if you really want to know). In the above example, filtering the IP address 123.123.123.123 through mask 255.255.255.0 gives a subnet address of 123.123.123.0 [Side note: earlier in this thread someone (Dale?) mentioned that 0 and 255 are reserved numbers in IP addresses. Now you see why 0 is a reserved address. 255 has a special meaning - it is a broadcast address. Any packet sent to 123.123.123.255 will be processed by all devices on the subnet.] Er, where was I? Oh, yes. When a device wants to send a data packet, it determines whether or not it is on the same subnet as the receiving device. If it is, then the sending device just sends the packet directly to the receiving device. Otherwise, the sending device looks up which gateway it needs to use, and then sends the packet to that gateway, which handles all the forwarding and routing necessary. On a Windows machine if you open a command prompt and enter the commands "ipconfig /all" and "route print" you'll see all the technical info the machine uses to perform all the above steps. Are you sorry you asked? :=) --- technobabble footnote --- The "dotted quad" notation of IP addresses and subnet masks is a representation of a 32-bit number. The IP address 123.123.123.123 is, in binary: 0111 1011 0111 1011 0111 1011 0111 1011 The subnet mask is: 1111 1111 1111 1111 1111 1111 0000 0000 The two numbers are combined using a bitwise-AND operation, resulting in: 0111 1011 0111 1011 0111 1011 0000 0000 which translates back to 123.123.123.0 Reading from the left, a subnet mask must always be a sequence of 1s followed by a sequence of 0s. This leads to a more compact notation which just takes the device's IP address, adds a slash followed by the the number of 1s; in the example we've been using, the device's IP address would be 123.123.123.123/24 --- end technobabble --- -- Jim Hyslop ------------------------------ Message-ID: <439CE5BA.3020100 [at] dreampossible.ca> Date: Sun, 11 Dec 2005 21:51:38 -0500 From: Jim Hyslop Organization: Dreampossible Inc. Subject: Re: Ethernet 101 References: In-Reply-To: Simon Newton wrote: > Yes, the subnet mask tells you which part of the address is the network > portion and which part belongs to the host. The subnet mask is bitwise > and'ed with the address to produce the network address. So an address of > 123.123.123.123 with an netmask of 255.255.255.0 means the 123rd device > on the 123.123.123.0 network. Not quite. Yes, it's on the 123.123.123.0 network, but the last '123' is simply a unique identifier. It doesn't mean there are 123 devices on that network. -- Jim Hyslop ------------------------------ In-Reply-To: References: Message-Id: <4ac0d0d99cbb3159cc01bd21023d3c1d [at] sandiego.edu> From: James Feinberg Subject: Re: Corroded sockets... Date: Sun, 11 Dec 2005 22:09:22 -0800 From the current issue of Family Handyman magazine, on removing bases once the bulb is broken and a lubricant to use for the new lamps: "When a light bulb is stuck in its socket, the culprit is usually corrosion between the socket and the bulb's metal base... "Often, you can unscrew the base by inserting a pliers and holding the jaws open as you turn. A potato might work too: Round the end of the potato with a knife, jam it into the socket and turn. But if you bulb is really stubborn, use hot glue and a 1/2" x 1/2" stick of wood. (Photo 1: Apply a heavy blob of hot glue to a stick and press it into the broken bulb's base. If the glue doesn't fill the base, inject glue into any voids. Let the glue cool for five minutes and turn the stick to screw out the base.) If you don't have a scrap of wood, buy a 5.8" dowel... "Save yourself all of this hassle in the future by applying a special lubricant such as Bulb EZ to the new bulb ($4, www.bulbez.com, 530-478-0707). (Photo 2: Coat the threads of the new bulb with a special lubricant designed for light bulbs. The coating inhibits corrosion and makes future removal much easier.) Good luck! --James Feinberg University of San Diego On Dec 11, 2005, at 8:11 AM, Steve Jones wrote: > > 3) Is there anything we can apply to the socket or bulb base that will > help > prevent corrosion? ------------------------------ Message-ID: <1054.208.51.52.121.1134372562.squirrel [at] webmail.peak.org> In-Reply-To: <003601c5fe6d$7a75fb90$6901a8c0 [at] BCA1> References: <1130.208.51.52.90.1134267883.squirrel [at] webmail.peak.org> <003601c5fe6d$7a75fb90$6901a8c0 [at] BCA1> Date: Sun, 11 Dec 2005 23:29:22 -0800 (PST) Subject: Re: ethernet cable From: "Bill Nelson" > What you describe is the basic star plan of one node on the end of each > home-run and is what I've been laying out for buildings for 5 years or so. > For economical use of Ethernet with moving lights I believe a daisy chain > or topology free arrangement be desirable. My understanding is there is a > slight delay each time the data passes through a hub or switch and that if > each moving light in effect had a switch in it, the cumulative delay might > be an issue. I don't know if it is a daisy chain or a homerun configuration. The as built documents are not yet available and I was not there when the installation occurred. One major disadvantage of a daisy chained Ethernet configuration is that you need more repeaters - as line length is very limited. As you note, every time a packet has to pass through a device, it introduces a delay. Another disadvantage is that, Ethernet normally operates with collision detection. With a daisy chain, collisions are more likely to be a problem. There are ways to eliminate the data collision problem, but it slows down the control signals somewhat. Basically, the devices or prohibited from transmitting back to the controller until polled by the controller. The controller then listens for the response. After it gets the response, it can start sending control signals again. > So, are you affirming that there is no delay what-so-ever when data passes > through any switch device? No, I would never say that. There are delays due to simple line length. Ethernet switches are not required in the instruments themselves. One node providing one DMX output can drive quite a few instruments. Since the DMX input/output of an instrument are usually common connections, there is no significant device delay in passing the packet to the next device on the DMX line. Bill ------------------------------ Message-ID: <1080.208.51.52.121.1134373747.squirrel [at] webmail.peak.org> In-Reply-To: References: Date: Sun, 11 Dec 2005 23:49:07 -0800 (PST) Subject: Re: Ethernet 101 From: "Bill Nelson" >> One local highschool just built a new theatre and they are using an >> Expression console over EDMX (Ethernet DMX). One accessory available is >> a >> wireless remote - really nice for focussing lights or doing light >> checks. > > Are you sure that it isn't IR? We had one with our old Impuls control. It > works fine, but, being line-of-sight, is much impeded by the forest of > structural > steel among which our lighting bridges live. And it is strictly wireless! I don't know if both are available for the Expression - I assume it is. I was told that an RF RFU is available. It doesn't really matter, that is just the transport method. You use whatever works for your facility. Bill ------------------------------ Message-ID: <1110.208.51.52.121.1134375261.squirrel [at] webmail.peak.org> In-Reply-To: References: Date: Mon, 12 Dec 2005 00:14:21 -0800 (PST) Subject: Re: Figuring mechanical advantage From: "Bill Nelson" > I think I am suffering from a temproary brain block, > so I am turning to the list for suggestions: > I am playing around with some block and tackle designs > other than what is in the Backstage Handbook and I'm > having some problems figuring out the forces and the > associated mechanical advantage or disadvantage. Can > anyone recommend a good explanation of mechanical > advantage/disadvantage in block and tackle systems? So > far my searches of the net and my references haven't > been very helpful. Count the number of load support lines. That is the theoretical mechanical advantage. Note that the operating line can be one of the support lines. The actual mechanical advantage is never equal to the theoretical value due to friction. You can also get the theoretical value by measurement. Pull the operating line a distance X. Measure the distance Y that the load moved. The mechanical advantage is X/Y. Bill ------------------------------ Message-ID: <1121.208.51.52.121.1134375976.squirrel [at] webmail.peak.org> In-Reply-To: References: Date: Mon, 12 Dec 2005 00:26:16 -0800 (PST) Subject: Re: Figuring mechanical advantage From: "Bill Nelson" > Count the lines between the blocks - don't count the one you're pulling on > - there's your mechanical advantage. The displacement advantage is the > inverse. A seven-line rig has a mechanical advantage of 7; 5 pounds of > pull means 35 pounds of lift (disregarding friction, of course); - and a > 1/7 displacement advantage; - 35 feet of pull means 5 feet of lift. > There are good and bad ways to reeve the lines, though - the Crosby web > site has instructions, IIRC. Almost true. If the line you pull is directly from above, then it is one of the supporting lines. So a line connected by one end to the grid, then traveling down through a single block and back up to the grid - where you pull on it - has a 2:1 mechanical advantage. Keep in mind that supporting lines are not necessarily vertical. If not, then the mechanical advantage is not equal to the number of supporting lines. Bill ------------------------------ Message-ID: <1134.208.51.52.121.1134377117.squirrel [at] webmail.peak.org> In-Reply-To: References: Date: Mon, 12 Dec 2005 00:45:17 -0800 (PST) Subject: Re: Corroded sockets... From: "Bill Nelson" > "Often, you can unscrew the base by inserting a pliers and holding the > jaws open as you turn. A potato might work too: Round the end of the > potato with a knife, jam it into the socket and turn. I have sometimes removed a lamp base by just gripping the rim and rotating the rim. I never had any luck by inserting pliers and holding the jaws open. Then just tends to distort the base and make it even harder to remove. Potatoes are messy and difficult to pack around when you are working. Just purchase a hard rubber pencil eraser of the right size. Pressing it into the base and turning it has worked very well for me. And the flat eraser fits easily into a pocket or tool pouch. Bill ------------------------------ Reply-To: From: "Jeffrey E. Salzberg" Subject: RE: Ethernet 101 Date: Mon, 12 Dec 2005 03:47:39 -0500 Message-ID: <000001c5fef8$b5a919f0$6701a8c0 [at] Dell> In-Reply-To: > > Are you sure that it isn't IR? We had one with our old=20 > Impuls control.=20 > > It works fine, but, being line-of-sight, is much impeded by=20 > the forest=20 > > of structural steel among which our lighting bridges live.=20 > And it is=20 > > strictly wireless! >=20 > I don't know if both are available for the Expression - I=20 > assume it is. I was told that an RF RFU is available. It=20 > doesn't really matter, that is just the transport method. You=20 > use whatever works for your facility. From ETC's web site: "The Radio Remote Focus Unit (RRFU) provides a simple, wireless solution = for remote control. Compatible with the ETC Express, Expression and Insight consoles and LPCs, Arri Imagine 3 and Focus consoles and the Emphasis Control System, this small hand-held transmitter unit provides access to frequently used commands for dimmer and channel checks as well as macro = and record functions. The small receiver unit plugs directly into and is = powered by the RFU port on the console or nodes." ------------------------------ From: "pam" Subject: Strong Spotlights Date: Mon, 12 Dec 2005 02:59:24 -0700 Organization: Phxzone Productions Message-ID: <000201c5ff02$bbbd25c0$6401a8c0 [at] PAMBOT> Does anyone know right off hand if Strong has changed the orientation of the iris on their spotlights? Normally the iris closes to head shot towards the operator and opens to a full body away... has something changed recently? Pam Boyd Phoenix, AZ... L.336 -- No virus found in this outgoing message. Checked by AVG Free Edition. Version: 7.1.371 / Virus Database: 267.13.13/197 - Release Date: 12/9/2005 ------------------------------ End of Stagecraft Digest #616 *****************************