Return-Path: X-Scanned-By: RAE MPP/Clamd http://raeinternet.com/mpp X-Scanned-By: This message was scanned by MPP Lite Edition (www.messagepartners.com)! X-Real-To: stagecraftlist [at] theatrical.net Received: by prxy.net (CommuniGate Pro PIPE 4.2.10) with PIPE id 27266878; Fri, 03 Feb 2006 03:01:37 -0800 X-ListServer: CommuniGate Pro LIST 4.2.10 List-Unsubscribe: List-ID: Message-ID: From: "Stagecraft" Sender: "Stagecraft" To: "Stagecraft" Precedence: list Subject: Stagecraft Digest #677 Date: Fri, 03 Feb 2006 03:00:56 -0800 MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="ISO-8859-1" Content-Disposition: inline X-Spam-Status: No, score=-5.7 required=5.0 tests=ALL_TRUSTED,AWL,BAYES_00 autolearn=ham version=3.0.4 X-Spam-Level: X-Spam-Checker-Version: SpamAssassin 3.0.4 (2005-06-05) on prxy.net X-TFF-CGPSA-Version: 1.4f2 X-prxy-Spam-Filter: Scanned For info, archives & UNSUBSCRIBE, see --------------------------------------------------- Stagecraft Digest, Issue #677 1. Re: air cylinder by Dale Farmer 2. Re: side lighting by "Bill Nelson" 3. Re: air cylinder by "Bill Nelson" 4. Re: side lighting by Bill Sapsis 5. Re: tech riders by "Bill Nelson" 6. Re: tech riders by Dale Farmer 7. Re: side lighting by "Bill Nelson" 8. Re: Outdoor period fixtures by Steve Larson 9. Re: side lighting by "G. D. George" 10. Re: side lighting by "ladesigners [at] juno.com" 11. Re: side lighting by "Jeffrey E. Salzberg" 12. Re: side lighting by "Davis, Thomas J" 13. End Caps vs. Couplings - was side lighting by "Stephen E. Rees" 14. Re: air cylinder by "Jon Ares" 15. Re: side lighting by "Jeffrey E. Salzberg" 16. Re: Job titles by "Jon Ares" 17. Re: redirect of attention by "Jon Ares" 18. Re: Job titles by "Jeffrey E. Salzberg" 19. Re: End Caps vs. Couplings - was side lighting by Bill Sapsis 20. Re: End Caps vs. Couplings - was side lighting by "Stephen E. Rees" 21. Expanded Metal Flooring by Heather Hillhouse-Deans 22. Re: tech riders by "Bill Conner" 23. star trek doors by b Ricie 24. Re: side lighting by SS 25. Re: Mic stand recommendations... by "Storms, Randy" 26. Re: Outdoor period fixtures by "Ryan Knapp" 27. Re: side lighting by Paul Marsland 28. Re: air cylinder by "chip.a.wood" 29. Re: tech riders by Bruce Purdy 30. Re: side lighting by Paul Marsland 31. Re: ETA Connectors-help by Paul Marsland 32. Fake bolt heads by Joe Golden 33. Re: Fake bolt heads by "Jeffrey Kanyuck" 34. Re: Fake bolt heads by "Ryan Knapp" 35. Re: 20DVL moving lifts by Paul Marsland 36. Re: Fake bolt heads by Kevin Lee Allen 37. Re: Fake bolt heads by "Storms, Randy" 38. Re: tech riders by Brian Munroe 39. Re: tech riders by Bruce Purdy 40. Re: Fake bolt heads by "Frank E. Merrill" 41. Re: air cylinder by Jim Hyslop 42. Fwd: NASA - Hearing Voices From Space by Jerry Durand 43. Re: Fake bolt heads by "Ryan Knapp" 44. Re: Fake bolt heads by "Joe Golden" 45. Re: Fake bolt heads by Jerry Durand 46. Re: air cylinder by "Paul Schreiner" 47. Re: Fake bolt heads by "richard j. archer" 48. Re: Fake bolt heads by Jim Hyslop 49. Re: odd / mistaken equipment titles (or what will they think by Noemi Ybarra 50. Re: odd / mistaken equipment titles (or what will they think by Noemi Ybarra 51. Re: odd / mistaken equipment titles (or what will they think by "Paul Schreiner" 52. Re: tech rider by FrankWood95 [at] aol.com 53. Re: tech riders by FrankWood95 [at] aol.com 54. ouch by jdgrams [at] saintmarys.edu 55. Re: tech riders by FrankWood95 [at] aol.com 56. Re: Expanded metal flooring by "Michael Finney" 57. Re: tech riders by Dale Farmer 58. Re: Fake bolt heads by Dale Farmer 59. Re: Mic stand recommendations... by CB 60. Re: air cylinder by doran [at] bard.edu 61. Re: Mic stand recommendations... by CB 62. Re: odd / mistaken equipment titles (or what will they think of next?) by CB 63. Re: Job titles by CB 64. Re: tech riders by CB 65. Re: tech riders by CB 66. Re: tech riders by CB 67. Re: Fake bolt heads by Jim Hyslop 68. side lighting by CB 69. Re: tech riders by Bruce Purdy 70. Re: side lighting by Bruce Purdy 71. Re: Fake bolt heads by "Paul Schreiner" 72. Re: side lighting by "Paul Schreiner" 73. Station Fire by "Bill Conner" 74. Gaffer's Tape Re: side lighting by Andy Ciddor 75. Re: side lighting by FrankWood95 [at] aol.com 76. Re: tech riders by FrankWood95 [at] aol.com 77. Re: tech riders by Stephen Litterst 78. Re: Fake bolt heads by Jerry Durand 79. Re: Mic stand recommendations... by "Fritz, Barry L" 80. Re: tech riders by megironda [at] att.net (Gerry G.) 81. TD job offer by Bill Sapsis *** Please update the subject line of your reply to use the subject *** line of the message you are replying to! Please only reply to *** one message subject in each reply. ---------------------------------------------------------------------- Message-ID: <43E1EB74.5060406 [at] cybercom.net> Date: Thu, 02 Feb 2006 06:22:28 -0500 From: Dale Farmer Organization: I'm working on that.... Subject: Re: air cylinder References: In-Reply-To: Greg Bierly wrote: > For info, archives & UNSUBSCRIBE, see > --------------------------------------------------- > > I am looking for an economical air cylinder with a 30" stroke to run and > "elevator" door. It will be driving two 36" hollow core luan door > panels. Is there such a thing under $100 ea.? > > Greg Bierly > Technical Director > Hempfield HS > > > > MPJA.com which mostly does electronics surplus, also has some pneumatic stuff. Check their website. No-bullshit descriptions, low prices, occasionally very useful gack. --Dale ------------------------------ Message-ID: <1213.208.51.52.122.1138879452.squirrel [at] webmail.peak.org> In-Reply-To: References:

Date: Thu, 2 Feb 2006 03:24:12 -0800 (PST) Subject: Re: side lighting From: "Bill Nelson" > For info, archives & UNSUBSCRIBE, see > --------------------------------------------------- > >> I recall the booms we rent in don't have a threaded top. Then tell them to supply booms with threaded ends and pipe caps. > In that case if it is a standard boom. Run your rope down through > the entire boom to below the boom base and run it through a large > enough washer then tie an knot below the washer. Or you could tie an > icicle hitch or similar knot to the top of the boom pipe to safety to > the grid. I don't like rope hitches - they can always slip. I would much rather strongly tape the rope with gaffer's tape. But the large washer/nut in the base sounds like a better solution. Fortunately, I don't have to hire pipes - we have them in our stock. Bill ------------------------------ Message-ID: <1219.208.51.52.122.1138879672.squirrel [at] webmail.peak.org> In-Reply-To: References:

Date: Thu, 2 Feb 2006 03:27:52 -0800 (PST) Subject: Re: air cylinder From: "Bill Nelson" >> I am looking for an economical air cylinder with a 30" stroke to run and >> "elevator" door. It will be driving two 36" hollow core luan door >> panels. Is there such a thing under $100 ea.? Hm. You might be able to use a jack screw for a full sized satellite dish. They have plenty of power - so you could work up a linkage with a mechanical disadvantage to get more speed. Bill ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 02 Feb 2006 06:30:49 -0500 Subject: Re: side lighting From: Bill Sapsis Message-ID: In-Reply-To: And the load rating of gaffers tape would be???? <> I've always been fond of the end cap with a ring welded on it on the top of the pipe. Bill S. www.sapsis-rigging.com 800.727.7471 800.292.3851 fax 267.278.4561 mobile Join the Long Reach Long Riders on their 3rd annual cross country charity motorcycle ride. On 2/2/06 6:24 AM, "Bill Nelson" wrote: > I don't like rope hitches - they can always slip. I would much rather > strongly tape the rope with gaffer's tape. > > But the large washer/nut in the base sounds like a better solution. > > Fortunately, I don't have to hire pipes - we have them in our stock. ------------------------------ Message-ID: <1226.208.51.52.122.1138880054.squirrel [at] webmail.peak.org> In-Reply-To: References:

Date: Thu, 2 Feb 2006 03:34:14 -0800 (PST) Subject: Re: tech riders From: "Bill Nelson" > I have one of those neon testers, and use it with a "Stage pin to > Edison" adapter. I already had both in stock, so I could never see the > time and effort to make up a special tester just for pins. Well, my house only uses stage pins. The tester I made fits in my pocket nicely, where a standard edison tester and adapter wouldn't. It only took about 30 minutes to make the tester - well worth the time and effort. Bill ------------------------------ Message-ID: <43E1EF03.6040504 [at] cybercom.net> Date: Thu, 02 Feb 2006 06:37:39 -0500 From: Dale Farmer Organization: I'm working on that.... Subject: Re: tech riders References: In-Reply-To: Matthew Breton wrote: > For info, archives & UNSUBSCRIBE, see > --------------------------------------------------- > >> I believe that the OP, and certainly I, was talking about a device >> that >> has three neon lights. You plug it into an outlet and the lights will >> tell >> you if it is wired correctly or whether per chance the hot and neutral >> are >> switched, or one of them is switched with the ground. (Which is *always* >> different with neutral). > > GAM makes a very expensive version of these, although it also serves the > purpose of testing continuity in lamps (a good thing to have handy). > > Sperry sells the kind you're talking about for less than $5 in most > hardware stores. I got mine as a "Three-Wire Tester"; they also make > one that checks GFCI circuits for faults. > The handy little testers with three neon bulbs detect most mis wirings in an outlet, but they will not detect a ground and neutral swap. That being said, I have a couple of them, and use them frequently when in a new facility. they will detect hot neutral swap, which is rather more common than I wish it was. And disconnected ground wire, which is also more common than it ought to be. --Dale ------------------------------ Message-ID: <1230.208.51.52.122.1138880383.squirrel [at] webmail.peak.org> In-Reply-To: References:

Date: Thu, 2 Feb 2006 03:39:43 -0800 (PST) Subject: Re: side lighting From: "Bill Nelson" > And the load rating of gaffers tape would be???? > <> Yeah, I know. It is just more secure than a rope hitch on the top of a pipe without any pipe cap. > I've always been fond of the end cap with a ring welded on it on the top > of the pipe. That would be my preference as well. But I just make do with the drilled end cap with a bolt, washer and nut. Even better than either of our preferences would be a ring welded to the top of a pipe. After all, what is the load rating of an end cap? Fortunately, the purpose is to keep the pipe stand from tipping so far that it falls over. The load rating does not have to be very high. Bill ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 02 Feb 2006 08:51:10 -0500 Subject: Re: Outdoor period fixtures From: Steve Larson Message-ID: In-Reply-To: 1900s or 1800s? Any good lighting dealer would have catalogs if they don't have them in stock. Check online. There are dealers everywhere with every conceivable product. Use vintage in your google. Steve > From: Brian James > Reply-To: "Stagecraft" > Date: Thu, 02 Feb 2006 00:22:42 -0500 > To: "Stagecraft" > Subject: Outdoor period fixtures > > For info, archives & UNSUBSCRIBE, see > --------------------------------------------------- > > Does anybody know of a good supplier or renter of reasonable priced > period lighting fixtures. I think my client wants outdoor lamps that > replicate the mid 1900s in New Orleans. > > -- > Brian James > ------------------------------ From: "G. D. George" Subject: RE: side lighting Date: Thu, 2 Feb 2006 09:26:41 -0500 In-reply-to: Message-ID: Re: load rating of gaff tape... Depends upon how much you use. J G. D. George Assistant Professor and Technical Director Capital University Theatre Department of Communications 1 College and Main Columbus, OH 43209 (614) 236-6498 ggeorge [at] capital.edu -----Original Message----- From: Stagecraft [mailto:stagecraft [at] theatrical.net] On Behalf Of Bill Sapsis Sent: Thursday, February 02, 2006 6:31 AM To: Stagecraft Subject: Re: side lighting For info, archives & UNSUBSCRIBE, see --------------------------------------------------- And the load rating of gaffers tape would be???? <> I've always been fond of the end cap with a ring welded on it on the top of the pipe. Bill S. www.sapsis-rigging.com 800.727.7471 800.292.3851 fax 267.278.4561 mobile Join the Long Reach Long Riders on their 3rd annual cross country charity motorcycle ride. On 2/2/06 6:24 AM, "Bill Nelson" wrote: > I don't like rope hitches - they can always slip. I would much rather > strongly tape the rope with gaffer's tape. > > But the large washer/nut in the base sounds like a better solution. > > Fortunately, I don't have to hire pipes - we have them in our stock. ------------------------------ From: "ladesigners [at] juno.com" Date: Thu, 2 Feb 2006 14:27:38 GMT Subject: Re: side lighting Message-Id: <20060202.062831.10965.56405 [at] webmail36.lax.untd.com> Rumor has it that 3M asked some Hollywood gaffers what performance chara= cteristics must be present in a new tape for them to specify it for use = on a movie set. The consensus was that it must be strong enough to suppo= rt a 2K Fresnel (a 'Deuce') when taped to a wall so there would be no Ce= ntury stand in the shot. That is an ambiguous load rating, of course, (i= f true) but a load rating nonetheless. /s/ Richard And the load rating of gaffers tape would be???? <> Bill S. ------------------------------ Reply-To: From: "Jeffrey E. Salzberg" Subject: RE: side lighting Date: Thu, 2 Feb 2006 09:32:15 -0500 Message-ID: <007801c62805$76de3760$6501a8c0 [at] Dell> In-Reply-To: > Rumor has it that 3M asked some Hollywood gaffers what > performance characteristics must be present in a new tape for > them to specify it for use on a movie set. I was told that it was Jim Lowell, but that's anecdotal and apocryphal. ------------------------------ Subject: RE: side lighting Date: Thu, 2 Feb 2006 09:41:23 -0500 Message-ID: <3CF87682970858499CA56707FB1F092BD60347 [at] wscc-s-003000.westshore.edu> From: "Davis, Thomas J" A quote that I remember from so long ago, I don't recall who said it to me (teacher? One of the guys on the crew?) "If 'All the world's a stage And all the men and women merely players,' then on the first day, God created gaffers tape. Because there is no way he could have finished the set and lighting in six days without it" Tom Davis Re: load rating of gaff tape... Depends upon how much you use. J For info, archives & UNSUBSCRIBE, see --------------------------------------------------- And the load rating of gaffers tape would be???? <> I've always been fond of the end cap with a ring welded on it on the top of the pipe. =20 Bill S. ------------------------------ Message-ID: <43E21AF9.3060304 [at] fredonia.edu> Date: Thu, 02 Feb 2006 09:45:13 -0500 From: "Stephen E. Rees" Reply-To: Rees [at] fredonia.edu Subject: End Caps vs. Couplings - was side lighting References: Hi Bill, I thought that end caps were castings and galvanized. Seems a threaded coupling with a bent steel rod welded to both sides (like the City Theatrical device)would be better because of more surface contact. Did I miss something. Steve Rees Bill Sapsis wrote: > I've always been fond of the end cap with a ring welded on it on the top of > the pipe. > > ------------------------------ Message-ID: <003501c62807$8ef104c0$0600000a [at] BRUTUS> From: "Jon Ares" References:

Subject: Re: air cylinder Date: Thu, 2 Feb 2006 06:47:15 -0800 > However, I think that the smartest way to rig this effect would be to > rigthe doors to operate in the same fashion as a curtain track. You > pull one rope and the doors open, pull another rope and they close. > This would seem to be a simple, inexpensive, and relatively failsafe > way to accomplish this task. That's precisely what I did for "How To Succeed" a few years ago. Worked great. I even took a $15 battery-operated doorbell, took out one of the metal plate chimes (so it only went "ding" rather than "ding-dong" - I removed the 'dong,' so to speak) - and the actors 'called' the elevator ("ding") and the operator knew to open the doors. Sometimes simple is good. - Jon Ares www.hevanet.com/acreative ------------------------------ Reply-To: From: "Jeffrey E. Salzberg" Subject: RE: side lighting Date: Thu, 2 Feb 2006 09:51:53 -0500 Message-ID: <007901c62808$349c3660$6501a8c0 [at] Dell> In-Reply-To: > "If 'All the world's a stage > And all the men and women merely players,' > then on the first day, God created gaffers tape. > Because there is no way he could have finished the set and > lighting in six days without it" Actually, some of us remember the days before gaffers' tape was in common use, and we designed and executed the sets and lighting for many shows in those days. ------------------------------ Message-ID: <003f01c62808$67534e40$0600000a [at] BRUTUS> From: "Jon Ares" References:

Subject: Re: Job titles Date: Thu, 2 Feb 2006 06:53:18 -0800 > Chris this is the main reason that its really hard to get me to FOH sound > these days. Everybody has a stereo and knows how it "suppose" to sound > these > days. What a coincidence this thread is running... just last night as my crew and I are setting up an onstage monitor, and determining placement, this 'kid' (16-17, and who I don't know - not on my crew)) starts throwing in his two cents. Among other things, he tips the monitor over so its face is perpendicular to the stage floor... I tip it back up and he makes some comment about how that won't work, because the sound will go 'up,' and I said yes, up to where their faces are - not to where their shoes are. He goes on to say, "I know what I'm doing - I do sound at my church." After about 15 minutes of his "expert" opinion, I wanted to wring his neck. (As others have said.... not to knock some churches, particularly those with lots of gear and people who really do know what they're doing.) - Jon Ares www.hevanet.com/acreative ------------------------------ Message-ID: <005b01c62808$c9e31630$0600000a [at] BRUTUS> From: "Jon Ares" References:

Subject: Re: redirect of attention Date: Thu, 2 Feb 2006 06:56:03 -0800 > Whatever happened to separation of church and state? > > That disappeared about 6 years ago. Perhaps the new conservative Supreme Court will go ahead and remove that pesky law. - Jon Ares www.hevanet.com/acreative ------------------------------ Reply-To: From: "Jeffrey E. Salzberg" Subject: RE: Job titles Date: Thu, 2 Feb 2006 09:58:57 -0500 Message-ID: <007a01c62809$315a3550$6501a8c0 [at] Dell> In-Reply-To: > comment about how that won't work, because the sound will go > 'up,' and I > said yes, up to where their faces are - not to where their > shoes are. Next time, explain that the sound will continue upward until it reaches the point where gravity and momentum cancel out, at which time it will curve downward, forming a perfect parabola. ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 02 Feb 2006 10:03:22 -0500 Subject: Re: End Caps vs. Couplings - was side lighting From: Bill Sapsis Message-ID: In-Reply-To: Now you know me better than to use a cast end cap. The ones I've used have always been steel. I dunno, maybe we made them here. We've been known to make metal stuff here. (It's why I have all those welding machines and stuff back in the shop) No, you didn't miss anything. For the really anal about this the absolutely, positively and completely correct way to do this is to use a piece of sleeve pipe. The sleeve pipe would be long enough to allow for it to go at least 6 inches into the boom pipe and extend 6 inches above the boom pipe. You would bolt the sleeve pipe to the boom and weld a ring or loop of steel bar to the other end of the sleeve pipe. This method would give you an "engineered" connection that you could justify in a court of law. It would also cost a zillion dollars; which is why no one ever uses this method. But you could..... :-) Bill S. www.sapsis-rigging.com 800.727.7471 800.292.3851 fax 267.278.4561 mobile Join the Long Reach Long Riders on their 3rd annual cross country charity motorcycle ride. On 2/2/06 9:45 AM, "Stephen E. Rees" wrote: > For info, archives & UNSUBSCRIBE, see > --------------------------------------------------- > > Hi Bill, > I thought that end caps were castings and galvanized. Seems a threaded > coupling with a bent steel rod welded to both sides (like the City > Theatrical device)would be better because of more surface contact. Did > I miss something. > Steve Rees > > Bill Sapsis wrote: > >> I've always been fond of the end cap with a ring welded on it on the top of >> the pipe. >> >> > ------------------------------ Message-ID: <43E22128.3070209 [at] fredonia.edu> Date: Thu, 02 Feb 2006 10:11:36 -0500 From: "Stephen E. Rees" Reply-To: Rees [at] fredonia.edu Subject: Re: End Caps vs. Couplings - was side lighting References: Thank you, sir. Steve Bill Sapsis wrote: > Now you know me better than to use a cast end cap. > > No, you didn't miss anything. > > For the really anal about this the absolutely, positively and completely > correct way to do this is to use a piece of sleeve pipe. ------------------------------ Message-ID: <43E2209F.3050605 [at] lehigh.edu> Date: Thu, 02 Feb 2006 10:09:19 -0500 From: Heather Hillhouse-Deans Subject: Expanded Metal Flooring Hi All- I think I've solved the problem with your help, but here's more info for the curious. The reason we're using it is because we have elevated the deck and want to do lighting effects under and through portions of the floor. The attachment was to 2x4 framing (attached to solid platforming), lag screwed tightly every 3-4" for a riveted look. There is one internal brace, and we can add more if needed although it will change the look so we're trying to avoid it if not necessary. The movement was definitely due to stretch in the material, not the attachment. The original material I purchased was WAY to light- it was 1/2" diamonds, and only 16 gauge- the steel guy and I had a misunderstanding, plus in the original design there was 3/4" plexi over it and it was strictly visual... I didn't think about it enough when that plexi got cut. I spent yesterday morning purchasing and transporting the new version- #9 (again, flattened) as previously suggested. We have completed a couple of sections with it now, and are MUCH happier with it. While it still has some give, it is well within our tolerances, and visually what the designer wanted. In fact, he likes the slight give it has now! And yes, we have given costume issue much consideration- the smallest heel on the stage is a chunky character heel, and the edges are cut long and buried under Masonite on the platforms. For the record, it is working beautifully, but I dislike expanded metal as a material- even wearing gloves as much as possible, most of my shop has lots of nicks and cuts from the stuff! Thanks so much! Heather Hillhouse-Deans Zoellner Arts Center/ Lehigh University ------------------------------ Message-ID: <001a01c6280b$2cd81db0$6501a8c0 [at] BCA1> Reply-To: "Bill Conner" From: "Bill Conner" Subject: Re: tech riders Date: Thu, 2 Feb 2006 09:13:07 -0600 You mean I should stop using my index and middle finger to see the buss or lug is hot? It seems some not only want to fool proof tying in but damn fool proof it as well. I'm not convinced making it more difficult and tedious doesn't in the long run result in more problems rather than fewer. You learn early that if you touch the hot before the ground or neutral it hurts and you never do that again, and don't be holding onto a sprinkler pipe with the other hand either. Bill C. ------------------------------ Message-ID: <20060202151457.71986.qmail [at] web50606.mail.yahoo.com> Date: Thu, 2 Feb 2006 07:14:57 -0800 (PST) From: b Ricie Subject: star trek doors In-Reply-To: The last bus I was on had the star trek doors between the sleeping compartment and lounges. We used to joke about them being operated by a disgruntled stagehand as they would malfunction often, by either missing their cue and not opening or their favorite was to close on you before ya made it through. Brian Rice 508-685-0716 b_ricie [at] yahoo.com "Blessed are the cracked: For it is they who let in the light." __________________________________________________ Do You Yahoo!? Tired of spam? Yahoo! Mail has the best spam protection around http://mail.yahoo.com ------------------------------ Message-ID: <8231e7ea0602020722t3b1ac7cel24b640b3719d86dd [at] mail.gmail.com> Date: Thu, 2 Feb 2006 10:22:12 -0500 From: SS Subject: Re: side lighting In-Reply-To: References:

Not that it totally matters, especially since it doesn't look like anyone corrected my goof, but being slightly anal retentive I must point out my own flaws and admit I posted an erroneous message yesterday. Oops :) I was just checking my email and read what I had posted yesterday and realized, hey, that ain't right!! My original text was: "One house I worked in back in the day included "wing" booms in the house plot. Since they were always in place we would just loosen the lags, and swing the pipe/instruments out of the way when need be. Rarely did we have to remove a boom. Always found that to be a nice touch and extremely helpful." We did not loosen the lags. That would just make everything unstable and unsafe!!! The flanges we used were Kee Clamp fittings, extra heavy. http://www.keesystems.com/products.htm And now it should all makes sense! Laters -SS TTS-EKU "Oh, and next Friday... is Hawaiian shirt day... so, you know, if you want to you can go ahead and wear a Hawaiian shirt and jeans. " --Bill Lumbergh ------------------------------ Subject: RE: Mic stand recommendations... Date: Thu, 2 Feb 2006 07:35:16 -0800 Message-ID: <555928311F8B2943B65FC7197942C3B70538C140 [at] es1.bsdnet.wednet.edu> From: "Storms, Randy" I'll join the chorus endorsing Ultimate - I purchased 12 Ultimate MC-77B = "Freedom" stands with the stackable base and the one-hand clutch in = 1997, and I have never regretted it - I love these stands! The booms = that came with them are 31" Konig & Meyers, and they are fine, too = (although I have had to order replacement cable clips once.) Cheers, -- r. Randy Storms rstorms [at] bham.wednet.edu For info, archives & UNSUBSCRIBE, see --------------------------------------------------- > I have seen and liked the MC-97 stacking stand. I'll second the recommendation for these. The only complaint I have with the boom arm attachment is that the little clip that helps tidy up the mic cable tends to get lost very easily. Other than that, the fact that you can store four mic stands in the floor space one would normally take up makes them very handy. ------------------------------ Subject: RE: Outdoor period fixtures Date: Thu, 2 Feb 2006 10:45:40 -0500 Message-ID: <071168C3EF37C34580207EB53478A0F71BED6A [at] stage.OTC.local> From: "Ryan Knapp" Cc: brianedwardjames [at] gmail.com I don't know where you are located in the country, but you can try architectural salvage yards. Here is a link to one that we rent/purchase/steal from often: http://www.secondchanceinc.org/ Here is a few others in the DC/Balt. area: The Brass Knob - 202.332.3370 The Back Doors Warehouse - 202.265.0587 House Works - 410.685.8047=20 Ryan N. Knapp Olney Theatre Center for the Arts rknapp [at] olneytheatre.org 301.924.4485 *122 -----Original Message----- From: Stagecraft [mailto:stagecraft [at] theatrical.net] On Behalf Of Brian James Sent: Thursday, February 02, 2006 12:23 AM To: Stagecraft Subject: Outdoor period fixtures For info, archives & UNSUBSCRIBE, see --------------------------------------------------- Does anybody know of a good supplier or renter of reasonable priced period lighting fixtures. I think my client wants outdoor lamps that replicate the mid 1900s in New Orleans. -- Brian James ------------------------------ Message-ID: <20060202155702.88419.qmail [at] web52205.mail.yahoo.com> Date: Thu, 2 Feb 2006 07:57:02 -0800 (PST) From: Paul Marsland Subject: RE: side lighting In-Reply-To: > > Eons ago (around 10 years, oi!) this same=20 > > discussion happened on the list and someone > advocated for making the=20 > > rope picks a few inches short and letting the rope > stretch to lower=20 > > the boom to the floor. Never tried it myself. > From the tour of "Chicago"; - after electrics and flying scenery are in the air, eight "beauty booms" come off the truck (called such because they are more electrified scenic elements rather than functional for illumination). They travel with sidearms, tie-off rings and flanges already installed - spot line picks lowered and tied to boom tie-off rings, booms are flown out to above head high to stay out of the way. They hang there for a couple of hours (rope stretching) while deck, bandstand and dance floor are installed - booms are lowered to about 4" and pick points are tied off snugly - Stagehand A pulls boom down while Stagehand B bolts boom flange to show deck - fixtures with T's are slid onto sidearms __________________________________________________ Do You Yahoo!? Tired of spam? Yahoo! Mail has the best spam protection around http://mail.yahoo.com ------------------------------ Reply-To: From: "chip.a.wood" Subject: RE: air cylinder Date: Thu, 2 Feb 2006 08:57:05 -0700 Message-ID: In-Reply-To: You did WHAT?!!! Chip > -----Original Message----- > From: Stagecraft [mailto:stagecraft [at] theatrical.net]On Behalf Of Jon Ares I removed the 'dong,' so to speak) ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 02 Feb 2006 10:58:51 -0500 Subject: Re: tech riders From: Bruce Purdy Message-ID: In-Reply-To: >> I believe that the OP, and certainly I, was talking about a device >> that >> has three neon lights. You plug it into an outlet and the lights will >> tell >> you if it is wired correctly or whether per chance the hot and neutral >> are >> switched, or one of them is switched with the ground. (Which is *always* >> different with neutral). > The handy little testers with three neon bulbs detect most > mis wirings in an outlet, but they will not detect a ground and > neutral swap. This is true. I misspoke on that part, and apologise for that. (Hangs head in shame) Bruce -- Bruce Purdy Technical Director Smith Opera House ------------------------------ Message-ID: <20060202160330.72565.qmail [at] web52210.mail.yahoo.com> Date: Thu, 2 Feb 2006 08:03:30 -0800 (PST) From: Paul Marsland Subject: Re: side lighting In-Reply-To: > Some good ideas and concepts to mull over > though. I think the ideal > solution would be to use a 6' tall boom for the > shinbusters etc. (Less > tippy), and hang the higher instruments from > taildowns. Unfortunately we > don't have the budget, and it's a lot of work for > the occasional (Once a > year maybe) one-off dance show that we need them > for. > One venue I've worked in had four ladders per side loaded with 8 (10, 12?) S4's each as part of their house hang. A pair of ropes to the pin rail to adjust the trim, another pair of tag lines to the pin rail to minimize swinging. As you suggest, their dance booms never needed to be very tall. Paul __________________________________________________ Do You Yahoo!? Tired of spam? Yahoo! Mail has the best spam protection around http://mail.yahoo.com ------------------------------ Message-ID: <20060202161755.10167.qmail [at] web52208.mail.yahoo.com> Date: Thu, 2 Feb 2006 08:17:55 -0800 (PST) From: Paul Marsland Subject: Re: ETA Connectors-help In-Reply-To: Years ago I found non-threaded 6-pin DINs at Radio Shack when I was too impatient to order in the threaded version. Paul --------------- Anyone have a source for these or know of an alternative besides rewireing all of the connectors to something newer. It is a 6pin din connector with screw threads on the sides. Thanks in advance, Jonathan Wills __________________________________________________ Do You Yahoo!? Tired of spam? Yahoo! Mail has the best spam protection around http://mail.yahoo.com ------------------------------ From: =?ISO-8859-1?Q?Joe=20Golden?= Subject: Fake bolt heads Date: 02 Feb 2006 08:24:45 -0800 Message-ID: I am looking for a source for fake bolt heads, either 3/8 or 1/2. I tried= google with no results. Joe Golden Sent from my Treo ------------------------------ Message-Id: Date: Thu, 02 Feb 2006 11:29:43 -0500 From: "Jeffrey Kanyuck" Subject: Re: Fake bolt heads Make clay molds of the style you want and then use plaster or something stronger to make many copies. Jeff Kanyuck I am looking for a source for fake bolt heads, either 3/8 or 1/2. I tried google with no results. Joe Golden Sent from my Treo ------------------------------ Subject: RE: Fake bolt heads Date: Thu, 2 Feb 2006 11:33:34 -0500 Message-ID: <071168C3EF37C34580207EB53478A0F71BED76 [at] stage.OTC.local> From: "Ryan Knapp" What type of bolt head? Hex, 12 point, carriage...=20 Ryan N. Knapp Olney Theatre Center for the Arts rknapp [at] olneytheatre.org 301.924.4485 *122 -----Original Message----- From: Stagecraft [mailto:stagecraft [at] theatrical.net] On Behalf Of Joe Golden Sent: Thursday, February 02, 2006 11:25 AM To: Stagecraft Subject: Fake bolt heads For info, archives & UNSUBSCRIBE, see --------------------------------------------------- I am looking for a source for fake bolt heads, either 3/8 or 1/2. I tried google with no results. Joe Golden Sent from my Treo ------------------------------ Message-ID: <20060202163054.83598.qmail [at] web52210.mail.yahoo.com> Date: Thu, 2 Feb 2006 08:30:54 -0800 (PST) From: Paul Marsland Subject: Re: 20DVL moving lifts In-Reply-To: > From: David Kissel ..... > The reason for this question, is that we are in the > process of getting a new stage floor (after 50 > years) and the architect, > is telling us that the lift is too heavy, and we > should not be using it. We would like to show him > that this lift is common in its use. One of our relatively new theatres was designed from the outset to accomodate a forklift (so they say) -- it has a very nice, soft sprung floor for the dancers and allegedly a secondary compression layer of a higher density. Someone equated it to the design of a bridge support. Given the budget dancing that occured before I inherited the space, I haven't been brave enough to put the floor to the test. > From: "Jon Lagerquist" ..... > A few quick numbers comparing that lift and a common > small scissor > lift that I would consider a normal heavy load. > > 20DVL - 2032 pounds - 185.4 #/sqft over the entire > footprint - 127#/sq in per 2"x2" wheel print > MX19 - 3100 pounds - 236 #/sqft over the entire > footprint - 193.75#/sq in per 2"x2" wheel print This brings to mind the tour of "Phantom" or of "Les Mis" and their service bridges. Each section flies on four, 2-ton motors, and rolls off the truck and onto the stage floor on six or maybe eight wheels. Maybe this is why our floorpocket covers are giving up? ;) Paul __________________________________________________ Do You Yahoo!? Tired of spam? Yahoo! Mail has the best spam protection around http://mail.yahoo.com ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 02 Feb 2006 11:36:19 -0500 From: Kevin Lee Allen Subject: Re: Fake bolt heads In-reply-to: Message-id: <33F1D607-D041-4094-B7DC-0F90F01DDC33 [at] klad.com> References: Scenery West? On Feb 2, 2006, at 11:24 AM, Joe Golden wrote: > For info, archives & UNSUBSCRIBE, see stagecraft.theprices.net/> > --------------------------------------------------- > > I am looking for a source for fake bolt heads, either 3/8 or 1/2. =20 > I tried google with no results. > > Joe Golden > Sent from my Treo ----- Kevin Lee Allen Architect of Dreams http://www.klad.com 973.744.6352.voice 201.280.3841.mobile klad [at] klad.com =F0 ------------------------------ Subject: RE: Fake bolt heads Date: Thu, 2 Feb 2006 08:36:22 -0800 Message-ID: <555928311F8B2943B65FC7197942C3B70538C141 [at] es1.bsdnet.wednet.edu> From: "Storms, Randy" Could you just hot-glue nuts of the appropriate size to the intended = surface, then fill the threaded opening with joint compound or something = similar? Good Luck, -- r. Randy Storms rstorms [at] bham.wednet.edu --------------------------------------------------- I am looking for a source for fake bolt heads, either 3/8 or 1/2. I = tried google with no results. Joe Golden Sent from my Treo ------------------------------ Message-ID: Date: Thu, 2 Feb 2006 11:45:41 -0500 From: Brian Munroe Subject: Re: tech riders In-Reply-To: References:

On 2/1/06, Stephen Litterst wrote: > Many portable dimmer racks have indicator LEDs built in that indicate > the presence of appropriate power. The rack I have -- which is a bit > old, admittedly -- won't even power up unless all three legs and > neutral are correctly connected. I wish it would check for ground as > well. On my show, we once lost a leg on the 400A automation service at power up- bad fuse. The automation drives and computer showed all kinds of weird communication problems and errors, but the 3 LEDs on all the drive racks stayed on. It took us a few minutes to realize we only had 2 of the 3 phases and the LEDs were incorrect. We never figured out why the LEDs stayed on, and the automation shop has ackowledged that it is a known problem. Strange.... Brian Munroe bpmunroe [at] optonline.net ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 02 Feb 2006 11:55:10 -0500 Subject: Re: tech riders From: Bruce Purdy Message-ID: In-Reply-To: > On my show, we once lost a leg on the 400A automation service at power > up- bad fuse. The automation drives and computer showed all kinds of > weird communication problems and errors, but the 3 LEDs on all the > drive racks stayed on. It took us a few minutes to realize we only > had 2 of the 3 phases and the LEDs were incorrect. > > We never figured out why the LEDs stayed on, and the automation shop > has ackowledged that it is a known problem. Strange.... If you had a three phase motor or other device connected, might power have back-fed through it, to light the LED on the "Dead" leg? Just a thought .... Bruce -- Bruce Purdy Technical Director Smith Opera House ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 2 Feb 2006 12:15:13 -0500 From: "Frank E. Merrill" Reply-To: "Frank E. Merrill" Message-ID: <1707653638.20060202121513 [at] tcon.net> Subject: Re: Fake bolt heads In-Reply-To: References: Howdy ! Thursday, February 2, 2006, Joe Golden wrote: > I am looking for a source for fake bolt heads, either 3/8 or 1/2. My immediate thought is to make a mold out of RTV silicone by smooshing the goop over a dozen or so bolts secured through a scrap of 1x or 2x material. Spray PAM or similar oily stuff on the wood as a release agent. The next day, after the silicone has cured, peel the mold off the wood and press some JB weld into the bolt-head sockets with a putty knife and let those cure, then pop your bolt heads out of the silicone, rather like popping ice cubes from a freezer tray. Buy RTV silicone and JB Weld at your favorite hardware store. RTV silicone is commonly used to caulk around bathtum and shower stalls and goes by many names. JB Weld looks like metal when it is cured. Best regards, Frank E. Merrill MERRILL STAGE EQUIPMENT Indianapolis Established 1946 www.merrillstage.com Running THE BAT! Natural e-mail system v.3.60 mailto:Lamplighter [at] tcon.net ------------------------------ Message-ID: <43E246E1.3030009 [at] dreampossible.ca> Date: Thu, 02 Feb 2006 12:52:33 -0500 From: Jim Hyslop Organization: Dreampossible Inc. Subject: Re: air cylinder References: In-Reply-To: chip.a.wood wrote: > You did WHAT?!!! > > Chip > > >>-----Original Message----- >>From: Stagecraft [mailto:stagecraft [at] theatrical.net]On Behalf Of Jon Ares > > > I removed the 'dong,' so to speak) Isn't that illegal, immoral and fattening in 37 jurisdictions? -- Jim Hyslop ------------------------------ Message-Id: <7.0.0.16.0.20060202095622.01fbbe38 [at] interstellar.com> Date: Thu, 02 Feb 2006 09:59:50 -0800 From: Jerry Durand Subject: Fwd: NASA - Hearing Voices From Space "SuitSat-1" will probably be released from the Space Station tomorrow and will be broadcasting on 149.990 MHz. This is a joint American/Russian project for students, any people with a shortwave receiver and handy students is welcome to listen in and even get a certificate. Story here: http://tinyurl.com/98toy -- Jerry Durand, Durand Interstellar, Inc. www.interstellar.com 219 Oak Wood Way, Los Gatos, California 95032-2523 USA tel: +1 408 356-3886, USA toll free: 1 866 356-3886 ------------------------------ Subject: RE: Fake bolt heads Date: Thu, 2 Feb 2006 13:04:44 -0500 Message-ID: <071168C3EF37C34580207EB53478A0F71BED80 [at] stage.OTC.local> From: "Ryan Knapp" You guys must have a lot of time on your hands... Buy Nylon bolts (McMaster-Carr pg 2999) and cut the threads off. It is $10 for a package of 100 bolts on average.=20 Ryan N. Knapp Olney Theatre Center for the Arts rknapp [at] olneytheatre.org 301.924.4485 *122 -----Original Message----- From: Stagecraft [mailto:stagecraft [at] theatrical.net] On Behalf Of Frank E. Merrill Sent: Thursday, February 02, 2006 12:15 PM To: Stagecraft Subject: Re: Fake bolt heads For info, archives & UNSUBSCRIBE, see --------------------------------------------------- Howdy ! Thursday, February 2, 2006, Joe Golden wrote: > I am looking for a source for fake bolt heads, either 3/8 or 1/2. My immediate thought is to make a mold out of RTV silicone by smooshing the goop over a dozen or so bolts secured through a scrap of 1x or 2x material. Spray PAM or similar oily stuff on the wood as a release agent. The next day, after the silicone has cured, peel the mold off the wood and press some JB weld into the bolt-head sockets with a putty knife and let those cure, then pop your bolt heads out of the silicone, rather like popping ice cubes from a freezer tray. Buy RTV silicone and JB Weld at your favorite hardware store. RTV silicone is commonly used to caulk around bathtum and shower stalls and goes by many names. JB Weld looks like metal when it is cured. Best regards, Frank E. Merrill MERRILL STAGE EQUIPMENT Indianapolis Established 1946 www.merrillstage.com=20 Running THE BAT! Natural e-mail system v.3.60 mailto:Lamplighter [at] tcon.net =20 ------------------------------ From: "Joe Golden" Subject: RE: Fake bolt heads Date: Thu, 2 Feb 2006 10:05:11 -0800 Message-ID: In-reply-to: Now that's the kind of answer I needed. Thanks for all the solutions. Joe -----Original Message----- From: Stagecraft [mailto:stagecraft [at] theatrical.net] On Behalf Of Ryan Knapp Sent: Thursday, February 02, 2006 10:05 AM To: Stagecraft Subject: Re: Fake bolt heads For info, archives & UNSUBSCRIBE, see --------------------------------------------------- You guys must have a lot of time on your hands... Buy Nylon bolts (McMaster-Carr pg 2999) and cut the threads off. It is $10 for a package of 100 bolts on average. Ryan N. Knapp Olney Theatre Center for the Arts rknapp [at] olneytheatre.org 301.924.4485 *122 -----Original Message----- From: Stagecraft [mailto:stagecraft [at] theatrical.net] On Behalf Of Frank E. Merrill Sent: Thursday, February 02, 2006 12:15 PM To: Stagecraft Subject: Re: Fake bolt heads For info, archives & UNSUBSCRIBE, see --------------------------------------------------- Howdy ! Thursday, February 2, 2006, Joe Golden wrote: > I am looking for a source for fake bolt heads, either 3/8 or 1/2. My immediate thought is to make a mold out of RTV silicone by smooshing the goop over a dozen or so bolts secured through a scrap of 1x or 2x material. Spray PAM or similar oily stuff on the wood as a release agent. The next day, after the silicone has cured, peel the mold off the wood and press some JB weld into the bolt-head sockets with a putty knife and let those cure, then pop your bolt heads out of the silicone, rather like popping ice cubes from a freezer tray. Buy RTV silicone and JB Weld at your favorite hardware store. RTV silicone is commonly used to caulk around bathtum and shower stalls and goes by many names. JB Weld looks like metal when it is cured. Best regards, Frank E. Merrill MERRILL STAGE EQUIPMENT Indianapolis Established 1946 www.merrillstage.com Running THE BAT! Natural e-mail system v.3.60 mailto:Lamplighter [at] tcon.net -- No virus found in this incoming message. Checked by AVG Free Edition. Version: 7.1.375 / Virus Database: 267.15.0/248 - Release Date: 2/1/2006 -- No virus found in this outgoing message. Checked by AVG Free Edition. Version: 7.1.375 / Virus Database: 267.15.0/248 - Release Date: 2/1/2006 ------------------------------ Message-Id: <7.0.0.16.0.20060202101107.01fc4e08 [at] interstellar.com> Date: Thu, 02 Feb 2006 10:13:27 -0800 From: Jerry Durand Subject: Re: Fake bolt heads In-Reply-To: References: At 10:04 AM 2/2/2006, you wrote: >You guys must have a lot of time on your hands... Buy Nylon bolts >(McMaster-Carr pg 2999) and cut the threads off. It is $10 for a >package of 100 bolts on average. We had a guy build a wooden bucket from scratch, it would have held water but for the scene it was just hanging over a fake well. Now if only he'd been a little less realistic on things we might not have been painting the set for act 2 during act 1 on opening night. -- Jerry Durand, Durand Interstellar, Inc. www.interstellar.com 219 Oak Wood Way, Los Gatos, California 95032-2523 USA tel: +1 408 356-3886, USA toll free: 1 866 356-3886 ------------------------------ Subject: RE: air cylinder Date: Thu, 2 Feb 2006 13:14:54 -0500 Message-ID: <6E497ADB607656479C24E6D7BF6B505A042A9B05 [at] exchange.rmwc.edu> From: "Paul Schreiner" > > I removed the 'dong,' so to speak) >=20 > Isn't that illegal, immoral and fattening in 37 jurisdictions? Au contraire...recent studies from California involving rats subjected to continued presence of "dongs" suggest that the dongs may be associated with a rare type of aural cancer at concentrations slightly less than elebenty-seben dpm (dongs per million). And it's a little-known fact that Barry Bonds always had a spare dong or two next to his bottles of the "clear" and the "cream" in the Giants' locker room... ------------------------------ Message-Id: In-Reply-To: References: Date: Thu, 2 Feb 2006 13:21:41 -0500 From: "richard j. archer" Subject: Re: Fake bolt heads > >You guys must have a lot of time on your hands... Buy Nylon bolts >(McMaster-Carr pg 2999) and cut the threads off. It is $10 for a package of >100 bolts on average. > >Ryan N. Knapp You can buy hex plastic rod and slice it up too, sizes you indicated are available and cost effective. If you were using really large "bolts", say to join "steel"(wood) I beams, you could shape your own wooden hex rod on the table saw. Dick A TD, Cornell U ------------------------------ Message-ID: <43E25107.7090104 [at] dreampossible.ca> Date: Thu, 02 Feb 2006 13:35:51 -0500 From: Jim Hyslop Organization: Dreampossible Inc. Subject: Re: Fake bolt heads References:

In-Reply-To: richard j. archer wrote: > You can buy hex plastic rod and slice it up too, sizes you indicated are > available and cost effective. If you were using really large "bolts", > say to join "steel"(wood) I beams, you could shape your own wooden hex > rod on the table saw. That reminds me of the scene from the "Hitchhiker's Guide to the Galaxy" series from the 80s, in the Vogon ship. In the background, there were HUGE hex nuts - about 2 or 3 feet from face to face. I commented to my friend "I'd hate to see the size of the wrench they used on that." But he didn't get it. -- Jim Hyslop ------------------------------ Message-ID: <43E2530F.2EB80473 [at] jonesphillips.com> Date: Thu, 02 Feb 2006 13:44:31 -0500 From: Noemi Ybarra Subject: Re: odd / mistaken equipment titles (or what will they think References: When I worked at the Kalamazoo Civic Theatre, we had a wood welder... Noemi Ybarra b Ricie wrote: > For info, archives & UNSUBSCRIBE, see > --------------------------------------------------- > > TOOL I AM ON THE LOOK OUT FOR: > Sky Crane > wood streacher > floor leveler > wing streacher > a truck loader that knows how to load a truck > > __________________________________________________ > Do You Yahoo!? > Tired of spam? Yahoo! Mail has the best spam protection around > http://mail.yahoo.com -- Jones & Phillips Associates, Inc. http://www.jonesphillips.com 301 North 5th Street Lafayette, Indiana 47901 765-423-1123 (Voice) 765-742-4013 (Fax) ------------------------------ Message-ID: <43E253AC.62FEFB1D [at] jonesphillips.com> Date: Thu, 02 Feb 2006 13:47:08 -0500 From: Noemi Ybarra Subject: Re: odd / mistaken equipment titles (or what will they think References: "Zirngibl, Ryan John" wrote: > Don't forget aerosol Light-Be-Gone and now for a limited time buy one can of Light-Be-Gone at regular price and we'll throw in a can of aerosol > Sound-Be-Gone for free! (This product will not deplete o-zone) > Lumasuck. Spray it on something you don't want to see, and it sucks up the light rather than bouncing it back to your eye. Comes in the convenient spray can or the economical 55-gallon drum. Sometimes mixed into the makeup of obnoxious actresses... Noemi Ybarra -- Jones & Phillips Associates, Inc. http://www.jonesphillips.com 301 North 5th Street Lafayette, Indiana 47901 765-423-1123 (Voice) 765-742-4013 (Fax) ------------------------------ Subject: RE: odd / mistaken equipment titles (or what will they think Date: Thu, 2 Feb 2006 13:55:00 -0500 Message-ID: <6E497ADB607656479C24E6D7BF6B505A042A9B06 [at] exchange.rmwc.edu> From: "Paul Schreiner" > Lumasuck. Spray it on something you don't want to see, and=20 > it sucks up the light rather than bouncing it back to your=20 > eye. Comes in the convenient spray can or the economical=20 > 55-gallon drum. >=20 > Sometimes mixed into the makeup of obnoxious actresses... I thought the makeup version was marketed under the name "TalentSuck"...? ------------------------------ From: FrankWood95 [at] aol.com Message-ID: <146.550bac41.3113b0ab [at] aol.com> Date: Thu, 2 Feb 2006 13:59:55 EST Subject: Re: tech rider In a message dated 02/02/06 10:14:38 GMT Standard Time, billn [at] peak.org writes: > But that still does not eliminate a major risk - improper connection at > the distribution panel itself. I believe someone mentioned where an > electrician connected the neutral or ground pigtail to a phase bus in the > panel. I should like to think that this is a minor risk. Electricians are paid not to do this sort of thing, and contractors of proven competence should always be used. Also, our insurers require that the whole intallation is inspected by a trained and certified electrician each year. Even in our small theatre, this takes the inspector and a gopher three days. It involves opening up receptacles, switches, and fittings. At the end, we get a long list of defects. Many are trivial, such as trunking lids off, and so on: as they go on there are fewer, but a policy of constant change and improvement sometimes leads to a real snag being found. I have sometimes served as the gopher, and been amazed at his thoroughness. It's an expensive operation, but brings peace of mind, and insurance cover. In 40 years, I can remember only five incidents of people meeting the mains. Two were due to faulty design in luminaires, coupled with wiring faults: one to abrasion of the insulation in a very full trunk; and one to a contractor assuming that the bus-bars were in a conventional order, which they were not, although they were properly labelled. The fifth was due to straightforward carelessness, and I did it myself. I had a non-working lantern, and checked the long cable. The plug looked a bit off, so I pulled it out and opened it up, found bad connections, and repaired it. Still no joy, so I looked at the socket end. This also looked iffy, so I opened it up, and it was. I took hold of it, and got 230V thumb to forefinger. I had left the other end connected. In no case was anybody harmed. Many profane words were spoken, but that was all. Frank Wood ------------------------------ From: FrankWood95 [at] aol.com Message-ID: <9d.7055fa04.3113b442 [at] aol.com> Date: Thu, 2 Feb 2006 14:15:14 EST Subject: Re: tech riders In a message dated 02/02/06 10:34:27 GMT Standard Time, billn [at] peak.org writes: > All they tell you is if the hot conductor is present. It does not tell you > if the neutral or ground connection is disconnected. True, but very valuable information. It implies that you can work on a conductor, without risk. Absence of the neutral will show itself by the failure of the fixture to operate, if the live is present. Testing earth connections is hard, and a multimeter won't do it safely. To fulfil its role, an earth bond needs to be able to carry enough current to operate the disconnect quickly. Under fault conditions, this may well be thousands of amps. UK practice is to test at 25A; given your lower voltages and higher currents, maybe 50A would be right. Frank Wood ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 02 Feb 2006 14:06:21 -0500 From: jdgrams [at] saintmarys.edu Subject: ouch Message-id: OUCH!! Cut it out you guys. j. --------------------------------------------------- Could you just hot-glue nuts or something similar? Good Luck, -- r. Randy Storms --------------------------------------------------- You did WHAT?!!! Chip --------------------------------------------------- On Behalf Of Jon Ares I removed the 'dong,' so to speak) ------------------------------ From: FrankWood95 [at] aol.com Message-ID: <87.373d77bd.3113b68b [at] aol.com> Date: Thu, 2 Feb 2006 14:24:59 EST Subject: Re: tech riders In a message dated 02/02/06 10:51:56 GMT Standard Time, billn [at] peak.org writes: > > The neutral is grounded at the sub-station, where the 11KV to 415V > > transformer is to be found. To our theatre, it makes no real difference, > > as the > > transformer is within 6' of the intake bus. Not all are so fortunate. The > > open-air Minack theatre, on the Cornish coast, was at the end of a long, > > single-phase > > feeder. With a 60A load on, the neutral was 90V above ground, and the > > meter in the > > control room indicated a 52A draw. It has been improved since last I > > worked there. > > In the US, we are not allowed to have runs that produce anywhere near that > percentage voltage drop. It's not a voltage drop. The line-to neutral voltage is maintained, more or less. It's just that the distribution floated0V abi=ove griund. Frank Wood ------------------------------ Subject: Re: Expanded metal flooring Date: Thu, 2 Feb 2006 11:32:27 -0800 Message-ID: From: "Michael Finney" Looking at the only structural book I have with me, I'd have to say that a 3'x5' framed opening is a little large for most gauges of expanded metal to be comfortable. Structurally allowable depends on the gauge, but there's a *lot* of allowable flex (for temporary access areas) in expanded metal flooring...it just feels really, really nasty and insecure to a lot of people (me included - I *hate* feeling the floor flex under me!). As many catwalks as I end up on, I've just learned to live with it. =20 Typically, we specify framing (angle, channel, or tube - never flat stock) in 2'x2' modules for most expanded metal applications - as much for comfort as anything else. Seams or joints are *always* supported for the full width. And, as others have said, it's important that the full perimeter of the expanded metal be securely fastened (welded, preferably) to the framing. Nut just tacked, and not just held with a clip every few feet. You'll see a lot of installations without a full perimeter "capture" of the expanded metal, but it's not considered good practice - especially if it will see much traffic. Witness the fire escape platform at the sound stage I was on last week that was being used as a regular exit...the metal grate was just tacked, and was already breaking away from the framing. YIKES! I'd second Steve's suggestion of considering some variety of bar grate - it's tougher to field cut, and it's significantly heavier, but it's a lot more "rigorous". McNichols is a great source for that, as is Grating Pacific: http://www.gratingpacific.com/ One other option to consider if weight is an issue would be fireglass grating - lots of shape options, very weather and chemical resistant, and much lighter than metal. Not quite the load ratings of steel, but that's probably OK for these applications. Ahhh, fun with materials! Michael Finney Thinkwell Design & Production mfinney [at] thinkwelldesign.com www.thinkwelldesign.com=20 ------------------------------ Message-ID: <43E2644A.4080909 [at] cybercom.net> Date: Thu, 02 Feb 2006 14:58:02 -0500 From: Dale Farmer Organization: I'm working on that.... Subject: Re: tech riders References: In-Reply-To: Bruce Purdy wrote: > For info, archives & UNSUBSCRIBE, see > --------------------------------------------------- > >>> I believe that the OP, and certainly I, was talking about a device >>> that >>> has three neon lights. You plug it into an outlet and the lights will >>> tell >>> you if it is wired correctly or whether per chance the hot and neutral >>> are >>> switched, or one of them is switched with the ground. (Which is *always* >>> different with neutral). > >> The handy little testers with three neon bulbs detect most >> mis wirings in an outlet, but they will not detect a ground and >> neutral swap. > > This is true. I misspoke on that part, and apologise for that. > (Hangs head in shame) > > Bruce Not that big a deal. The instructions tell you what miswirings that they detect, not the ones they don't detect. I'd been using them casually for a year or two before I actually sat down and thought them through. In that time they had found more bad outlets than I really wanted to think about. One of the really sad things was that I would put some tape over the defective outlets at a venue, labeling it as bad and what was wrong, and notify the venue person to have it fixed. I'd come back a couple months later, and the exact same outlet would still be broken, and warning label long gone. --Dale ------------------------------ Message-ID: <43E26C2D.2020504 [at] cybercom.net> Date: Thu, 02 Feb 2006 15:31:41 -0500 From: Dale Farmer Organization: I'm working on that.... Subject: Re: Fake bolt heads References:

In-Reply-To: Jim Hyslop wrote: > For info, archives & UNSUBSCRIBE, see > --------------------------------------------------- > > richard j. archer wrote: >> You can buy hex plastic rod and slice it up too, sizes you indicated are >> available and cost effective. If you were using really large "bolts", >> say to join "steel"(wood) I beams, you could shape your own wooden hex >> rod on the table saw. > > That reminds me of the scene from the "Hitchhiker's Guide to the Galaxy" > series from the 80s, in the Vogon ship. In the background, there were > HUGE hex nuts - about 2 or 3 feet from face to face. I commented to my > friend "I'd hate to see the size of the wrench they used on that." But > he didn't get it. > When I was in the navy, down in the steering gear room of the ship there was a wrench that was about ten feet long hanging on a set of brackets on the bulkhead. Stored conveniently nearby was a couple of chainfalls to manipulate it. It was used in case of massive steering gear failure. It was fitted to the rudder post and used as a tiller bar with the chainfalls to steer the ship in an emergency. Only time I ever saw it moved was when they were painting it, and it took a couple of hefty guys to move it. --Dale ------------------------------ Message-Id: <3.0.6.32.20060202134432.00d25190 [at] pop.west.cox.net> Date: Thu, 02 Feb 2006 13:44:32 From: CB Subject: RE: Mic stand recommendations... >A group was in a few weeks ago that had stands with squeeze clutches for >their height adjustment. 'Ultimate' manufactures them. 'Ultimate' is fond of innovating stand technology, but engineering it so that you must buy entire new stands from them to take advantage of the innovations. While I would be happy to purchase the squeeze type clutch for my stands (or their interlocking/stacking u-bases), I don't like the fact that I'd have to replace the entire stand. For that reason alone, I've avoided buying almost any of their kit. I'd be a lifelong customer if I could use their parts on my existing inventory. I'll second the recommendation for the Atlas round base. Tripod stands have their uses, but I only look for one if its impossible to put a round base where I need it. I haven't seen too many of those situations. OTOH, my favorite stand used to be a cast tripod base (same thread as a round base) with clawball feet. No manufacturer info anywhere on the base. If anyone knows where I can get me another one of those (mine got broken at a Frat-house gig), let me know! Chris "Chris" Babbie Location Sound MON AZ Delete key training and post trimming done by appointment. Rates negotiable, will trade for typing lessons/ADD treatment... ------------------------------ Message-ID: <1138913084.43e26f3ca42be [at] webmail.bard.edu> Date: Thu, 2 Feb 2006 15:44:44 -0500 From: doran [at] bard.edu Subject: Re: air cylinder References: In-Reply-To: Quoting Paul Schreiner : > And it's a little-known fact that Barry Bonds always had a spare dong or > two next to his bottles of the "clear" and the "cream" in the Giants' > locker room... > Yes, I've heard that the clear and the cream are what he used to get many of his 708 dingers, so figure that the dongs to go with that many dings have to be somewhere. Andy ------------------------------ Message-Id: <3.0.6.32.20060202135208.00d25190 [at] pop.west.cox.net> Date: Thu, 02 Feb 2006 13:52:08 From: CB Subject: RE: Mic stand recommendations... > The only complaint I have >with the boom arm attachment is that the little clip that helps tidy up >the mic cable tends to get lost very easily. ?!? That little slip is part of the shipping materials. Take it of and throw it away with the peanuts. ; > Don't make me make another video! Seriously, though, I can't remember using those. Ever. Hang your mic where you need it, connect the cable, and wrap it by grabbing the cable a boom's length (however long your boom is) away from the mic, and passing that twice around the 'hinge' of the mic and the boom. This'll put two wraps on the stand and two on the boom. Make it three if you're anal or the boom is really long. On the out, remove the two wraps and disconnect the mic and your done. 'Stoo easy! Chris "Chris" Babbie Location Sound MON AZ Delete key training and post trimming done by appointment. Rates negotiable, will trade for typing lessons/ADD treatment... ------------------------------ Message-Id: <3.0.6.32.20060202142119.00d25190 [at] pop.west.cox.net> Date: Thu, 02 Feb 2006 14:21:19 From: CB Subject: RE: odd / mistaken equipment titles (or what will they think of next?) >Consider this your reminder! :) Nice work. You know I needed it, too! Go here: Chris "Chris" Babbie Location Sound MON AZ Delete key training and post trimming done by appointment. Rates negotiable, will trade for typing lessons/ADD treatment... ------------------------------ Message-Id: <3.0.6.32.20060202142540.00d25190 [at] pop.west.cox.net> Date: Thu, 02 Feb 2006 14:25:40 From: CB Subject: RE: Job titles >Partly? Sorry, I spent the last two weeks with the Opera. Ya never know when the meat puppets are about... Chris "Chris" Babbie Location Sound MON AZ Delete key training and post trimming done by appointment. Rates negotiable, will trade for typing lessons/ADD treatment... ------------------------------ Message-Id: <3.0.6.32.20060202143138.00d25190 [at] pop.west.cox.net> Date: Thu, 02 Feb 2006 14:31:38 From: CB Subject: Re: tech riders >I note the 'legally', which suggests that it sometimes happens. *sigh*. I guess that suggesting that in the same way that the laws are stopping someone from making off with your car in the UK, the laws here are the only thing stopping someone from wiring AC incorrectly. Following your logic, it is then common in the UK for someone to make off with your car without your permission. Frank, anything that can happen will happen. Yes, there are no wiring police running around with 'frikkin' lasers' watching every connection made on CONUS, so I suppose it may happen once in a while. By no means is it common practice, nor is it condoned in any way, shape, or fashion. Does that clear things up for you a bit? Chris "Chris" Babbie Location Sound MON AZ Delete key training and post trimming done by appointment. Rates negotiable, will trade for typing lessons/ADD treatment... ------------------------------ Message-Id: <3.0.6.32.20060202144127.00d25190 [at] pop.west.cox.net> Date: Thu, 02 Feb 2006 14:41:27 From: CB Subject: Re: tech riders >There is no perfect solution to many things, you just have to choose >what makes most sense, or in some cases, choose the option that sucks >less than the other options. My complaint is with the solution that doesn't solve any problems, and has me undoing a bundle of four-ought, or even two-ought, to turn around the G&N pair because they decided that this should happen and didn't get the turnarounds. Turnarounds are far more common today, but it used to be a huge PITA. I remember a gig where the electricians at one end swapped around the G&N, and the other end they swapped the whole bundle, and there wasn't time to sort it all out. The mess of turnarounds and tee's that the squints loaned us was something I'll be ashamed of for the rest of my professional life. Thank the tech overlords that one was buried under tunnel lids and the other was in a locked electrical closet. Fortunately, the designer of the PD that we were using was forward thinking enough to provide both male and female G&N! If reversing the gender of the G&N made anyone's life easier, or safer, I'd be all for it. All it does is give you a warm feeling of safety where none atually exists, and makes a whole lot of busy work when time is of the essence. I'll take either way, as long as someone can decide which one and get everyone else to go along with it. Chris "Chris" Babbie Location Sound MON AZ Delete key training and post trimming done by appointment. Rates negotiable, will trade for typing lessons/ADD treatment... ------------------------------ Message-Id: <3.0.6.32.20060202144503.00d25190 [at] pop.west.cox.net> Date: Thu, 02 Feb 2006 14:45:03 From: CB Subject: RE: tech riders >But you can't use it for cams or bates plugs. If I ever get my Cam-Lok to DMX adaptor built, you could check your Distro feeds with a DMX tester. Chris "Chris" Babbie Location Sound MON AZ Delete key training and post trimming done by appointment. Rates negotiable, will trade for typing lessons/ADD treatment... ------------------------------ Message-ID: <43E27DF1.4010102 [at] dreampossible.ca> Date: Thu, 02 Feb 2006 16:47:29 -0500 From: Jim Hyslop Organization: Dreampossible Inc. Subject: Re: Fake bolt heads References:

In-Reply-To: Dale Farmer wrote: > When I was in the navy, down in the steering gear room of the ship > there was a wrench that was about ten feet long hanging on a set of > brackets on the bulkhead. Yeah, but I had visions of a 30-foot-long adjustable wrench. Or better still: "Hey, Blrarsax, hand me the three foot socket, will ya?" -- Jim Hyslop ------------------------------ Message-Id: <3.0.6.32.20060202144942.00d23900 [at] pop.west.cox.net> Date: Thu, 02 Feb 2006 14:49:42 From: CB Subject: side lighting >They are actually 8' pipes, a coupler, then a >four foot pipe (8' cut in half) on top. Cutting threads into SCH 40 pipe is done quite frequently. On the jobsite, too, with a tool designed to be somewhat portable. Any decent plumbing contractor should be able to cut some decent threads for your 4' tops, and it shouldn't be too expensive either. Something like a half-case of Bud Lite should do it. Chris "Chris" Babbie Location Sound MON AZ Delete key training and post trimming done by appointment. Rates negotiable, will trade for typing lessons/ADD treatment... ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 02 Feb 2006 16:52:29 -0500 Subject: Re: tech riders From: Bruce Purdy Message-ID: In-Reply-To: > If reversing the gender of the G&N made anyone's life easier, or safer, I'd > be all for it. All it does is give you a warm feeling of safety where none > atually exists, and makes a whole lot of busy work when time is of the > essence. I'll take either way, as long as someone can decide which one and > get everyone else to go along with it. There are valid arguments for both ways of doing things, but the bottom line is ya gotta be ready for any eventuality, 'cause some venues and some touring companies do it each way. I have five female tails, and two turnarounds, so whatever you bring, I'm ready. Oh, and since I do all the tie ins and disconnects myself, I'm not TOO worried about someone walking off with my turnarounds. Bruce -- Bruce Purdy Technical Director Smith Opera House ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 02 Feb 2006 16:57:55 -0500 Subject: Re: side lighting From: Bruce Purdy Message-ID: In-Reply-To: >> They are actually 8' pipes, a coupler, then a >> four foot pipe (8' cut in half) on top. > > Cutting threads into SCH 40 pipe is done quite frequently. On the jobsite, > too, with a tool designed to be somewhat portable. Any decent plumbing > contractor should be able to cut some decent threads for your 4' tops, and > it shouldn't be too expensive either. Something like a half-case of Bud > Lite should do it. Oh, that sounds so easy unless you remember I'm talking about rented booms. I don't cut threads into someone else's stuff, besides there isn't exactly much free time to do that when you load it in, set it up, do a one-off dance show then strike and ship it back. Bruce -- Bruce Purdy Technical Director Smith Opera House ------------------------------ Subject: RE: Fake bolt heads Date: Thu, 2 Feb 2006 17:06:06 -0500 Message-ID: <6E497ADB607656479C24E6D7BF6B505A042A9B09 [at] exchange.rmwc.edu> From: "Paul Schreiner" > Yeah, but I had visions of a 30-foot-long adjustable wrench. Or better > still: "Hey, Blrarsax, hand me the three foot socket, will ya?" I can just imagine, after hauling the three-foot socket into place, hearing "Dammit! I need the 2'11-1/2!" Or how much of a bear it'd be to turn that thing after the corners got rounded off... ------------------------------ Subject: RE: side lighting Date: Thu, 2 Feb 2006 17:06:55 -0500 Message-ID: <6E497ADB607656479C24E6D7BF6B505A042A9B0A [at] exchange.rmwc.edu> From: "Paul Schreiner" > Cutting threads into SCH 40 pipe is done quite frequently. =20 > On the jobsite, too, with a tool designed to be somewhat=20 > portable. Any decent plumbing contractor should be able to=20 > cut some decent threads for your 4' tops, and it shouldn't be=20 > too expensive either. Something like a half-case of Bud Lite=20 > should do it. Egads, that is cheap! FWIW, I don't use denominations smaller than a Yuengling... ------------------------------ Message-ID: <005f01c6284c$acb386f0$6501a8c0 [at] BCA1> Reply-To: "Bill Conner" From: "Bill Conner" Subject: Station Fire Date: Thu, 2 Feb 2006 17:01:59 -0600 Jennie Gorrel brought to my attention that the manage for the Great White plead guilty to 100 counts of misdemeanor manslaughter, and avoided a trial on 100 felony manslaughter charges. The owners still await trial. http://www.crowdsafe.com/new.asp?ID=1662 has a nice article on this. A strong lesson to think hard before flipping any switch or lever in this or any business. Bill C. ------------------------------ Message-Id: <4.3.2.7.2.20060203100825.03360178 [at] pop3.kilowatt.com.au> Date: Fri, 03 Feb 2006 10:14:23 +1100 From: Andy Ciddor Subject: Gaffer's Tape Re: side lighting In-Reply-To: References: At 01:32 3.02.2006, Jeffrey E. Salzberg wrote: > > Rumor has it that 3M asked some Hollywood gaffers what > > performance characteristics must be present in a new tape for > > them to specify it for use on a movie set. > >I was told that it was Jim Lowell, but that's anecdotal and apocryphal. The first gaffer's tape that I ever used, in the mid-seventies, came from Lowell (at $50/roll). It was some years before there was any other source of it down here in Oz. Andy ~:~:~:~:~:~:~:~:~:~:~:~:~:~:~:~:~:~:~:~:~:~:~:~:~:~:~:~:~:~:~:~:~:~:~:~:~:~ ~: Andy Ciddor aciddor [at] kilowatt.com.au :~ ~: The Kilowatt Company Telephone: +61 3 6229 1662 :~ ~: ABN 84 034 522 035 Facsimile: +61 3 6229 1662 :~ ~: Production | Technology | Communications Mobile: +61 (0)419 925 730 :~ ~:~:~:~:~:~:~:~:~:~:~:~:~:~:~:~:~:~:~:~:~:~:~:~:~:~:~:~:~:~:~:~:~:~:~:~:~:~ ------------------------------ From: FrankWood95 [at] aol.com Message-ID: <6d.5490aa3b.3113ed26 [at] aol.com> Date: Thu, 2 Feb 2006 18:17:58 EST Subject: Re: side lighting In a message dated 02/02/06 11:40:27 GMT Standard Time, billn [at] peak.org writes: > > And the load rating of gaffers tape would be???? > > <> > > Yeah, I know. It is just more secure than a rope hitch on the top of a > pipe without any pipe cap. I'm not sure of that. A proper hitch is secure up to half the breaking strain of the rope, and maybe more. This only works for hemp. Knots in wire rope are bad news. Frank Wood ------------------------------ From: FrankWood95 [at] aol.com Message-ID: <1ea.4c159a80.3113f1c7 [at] aol.com> Date: Thu, 2 Feb 2006 18:37:43 EST Subject: Re: tech riders In a message dated 02/02/06 15:13:46 GMT Standard Time, bill-conner [at] att.net writes: > You mean I should stop using my index and middle finger to see the buss or > lug is hot? It depends on your constitution. Some people are not worried by electric shocks, even the 230V ones we in the UK can administer. I am, luckily, one of them. Meeting 230V merely causes me to speak profane words. But it can kill some people. > > It seems some not only want to fool proof tying in but damn fool proof it as > > well. Idiot proofing gear is impossible. I shouldn't even try. The more idiots who kill themselves, the safer the world will be. Frank Wood ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 02 Feb 2006 18:40:25 -0500 (EST) From: Stephen Litterst Subject: Re: tech riders In-reply-to: Message-id: <2918.147.129.23.35.1138923625.squirrel [at] 147.129.23.35> References: > --------------------------------------------------- > Idiot proofing gear is impossible. I shouldn't even try. The more idiots > who > kill themselves, the safer the world will be. I'd like to propose this be added to the Stagecraft List Mission statement. Steve L. ------------------------------ Message-Id: <7.0.0.16.0.20060202154601.01f47b10 [at] interstellar.com> Date: Thu, 02 Feb 2006 15:48:51 -0800 From: Jerry Durand Subject: Re: Fake bolt heads In-Reply-To: References:

At 01:47 PM 2/2/2006, you wrote: >Yeah, but I had visions of a 30-foot-long adjustable wrench. Or better >still: "Hey, Blrarsax, hand me the three foot socket, will ya?" And then there's the impact wrench to turn it...and the air compressor! There ARE some huge bolts in use, I know there are some big ones holding (or were holding years ago) part of the face of Niagra Falls from falling off. I've also seen a huge nail gun for attaching microwave towers to mountains. If you have solid rock, you pull out this gun that shoots a BIG hardened nail a couple of feet into the rock. I imagine you pull the trigger with a long rope from a safe distance. -- Jerry Durand, Durand Interstellar, Inc. www.interstellar.com 219 Oak Wood Way, Los Gatos, California 95032-2523 USA tel: +1 408 356-3886, USA toll free: 1 866 356-3886 ------------------------------ Subject: RE: Mic stand recommendations... Date: Thu, 2 Feb 2006 18:59:58 -0500 Message-ID: From: "Fritz, Barry L" >....my favorite stand used to be a cast tripod base (same thread as a round > base) with clawball feet. No manufacturer info anywhere on the base. If > anyone knows where I can get me another one of those (mine got broken at a > Frat-house gig), let me know! > Chris "Chris" Babbie > Location Sound > MON AZ >=20 Chris, Checkout Sweetwater.com, I think they have what you described, or at least something close. The Atlas MS25 has a triangle base. The Samson MB1 has a base that looks like it was stolen from a music stand.=20 Hope that helps, Barry ------------------------------ From: megironda [at] att.net (Gerry G.) Subject: Re: tech riders Date: Fri, 03 Feb 2006 00:16:03 +0000 Message-Id: <020320060016.8589.43E2A0C30003CEEB0000218D21602810600E0B02019D07090A03 [at] att.net> > > Idiot proofing gear is impossible. I shouldn't even try. The more idiots who > kill themselves, the safer the world will be. > > > Frank Wood Where will we get our director's? Gerry G. ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 02 Feb 2006 20:07:47 -0500 Subject: TD job offer From: Bill Sapsis Message-ID: In-Reply-To: Hi folks. I'm posting this for a friend. This is what she has to say about it. "Beloit is a great little town and their theater department at the College has improved over the years." So please don't ask me about this cuz I don't know nuthin' about it. Just doing a good deed for the day. If you have questions check with the school. Tanks Bill S. www.sapsis-rigging.com 800.727.7471 800.292.3851 fax 267.278.4561 mobile Join the Long Reach Long Riders on their 3rd annual cross country charity motorcycle ride. < Technical Director Beloit College Department of Theatre Arts seeks Technical Director. This is a full-time 9 month position, beginning fall 2006. The TD will work in collaboration with resident designer, coordinate construction and installation of scenery of departmental productions, produce working drawings, budget costs, procure supplies, maintain equipment and systems, and supervise the safe and effective operation of the scene shop. Some opportunities to design may exist. MFA in scenic technology with secondary expertise in lighting or sound design most preferred. Salary is competitive with excellent fringe benefits. Review of applications extended to March 16, 2006. Submit application letter, resume, and three references to: Professor Chuck Drury, Dept. of Theatre Arts, Beloit College, 700 College St., Beloit, WI 53511. Beloit College is committed to the educational benefits of diversity and urges all interested individuals to apply. > ------------------------------ End of Stagecraft Digest #677 *****************************