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X-Real-To: stagecraftlist [at] theatrical.net Received: by prxy.net (CommuniGate Pro PIPE 4.2.10) with PIPE id 31462890; Sat, 24 Jun 2006 03:00:59 -0700 X-Spam-Status: No, score=-3.5 required=5.0 tests=ADVANCE_FEE_1,AWL,BAYES_00, NO_RECEIVED,NO_RELAYS autolearn=ham version=3.1.3 X-Spam-Checker-Version: SpamAssassin 3.1.3 (2006-06-01) on localhost X-Spam-Level: X-ListServer: CommuniGate Pro LIST 4.2.10 List-Unsubscribe: List-ID: Message-ID: From: "Stagecraft" Sender: "Stagecraft" To: "Stagecraft" Precedence: list Subject: Stagecraft Digest #854 Date: Sat, 24 Jun 2006 03:00:30 -0700 MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="ISO-8859-1" Content-Disposition: inline X-TFF-CGPSA-Version: 1.4 X-prxy-Spam-Filter: Scanned For info, archives & UNSUBSCRIBE, see --------------------------------------------------- Stagecraft Digest, Issue #854 1. Re: Trim chain termination by "Delbert Hall" 2. Re: Trim chain termination by "Delbert Hall" 3. Re: Trim chain termination by "Peter Scheu" 4. Re: Trim chain termination by "Jeff Mabray" 5. Re: Trim chain termination by Bill Sapsis 6. Re: painting wood grain... by SS 7. Re: Theatre Engineering and Architecture Conference by "Bill Conner" 8. Re: Long Reach Long Riders by SS 9. Re: painting wood grain... by "G. D. George" 10. Re: painting wood grain... by "Paul Guncheon" 11. Re: Water flow rate calculation by Jerry Durand 12. Re: painting wood grain... by "Jon Ares" 13. Re: painting wood grain... by CB 14. job opening by "Susan Wolverton" 15. Re: Trim chain termination by "Salvatori, Jason" 16. painting wood grain... by "Shelley Seifert" 17. Re: Trim chain termination by "Delbert Hall" 18. Re: painting wood grain... by Pat Kight 19. Re: Trim chain termination by "RD" 20. Re: Trim chain termination by "dale" 21. Shock loads (was Re: Trim chain termination) by "Michael Powers" 22. Re: Shock loads (was Re: Trim chain termination) by "RD" 23. Re: painting wood grain... by Kevin Lee Allen *** Please update the subject line of your reply to use the subject *** line of the message you are replying to! Please only reply to *** one message subject in each reply. ---------------------------------------------------------------------- Message-ID: Date: Fri, 23 Jun 2006 07:14:49 -0400 From: "Delbert Hall" Subject: Re: Trim chain termination In-Reply-To: References: It is very interesting (I am not sure of the reason - maybe some will tell me) but WLLs are are calculated differently for different pieces of hardware. Bill noted that the loft blocks are the weakest links based on their WLLs. But a lock block's WLL is base on a design factor of 8 while a chain's WLL is based on a design factor of 4 (a shackle's WLL is based on a design factor of 6 and GAC's WWL is based on a design factor of 5). See the problem of using WLL's? You are not comparing apples to apples. If you use an items breacking strength as the your guage of what is the weakest link in the system, then the trim chain is probably the weakest link (no pun intended). Technically, the WLL of a side-loaded 1/4" schackle is greater that the WLL of a typical loft block (500 lbs in most cases). So is side-loading shackles OK if the shackle is not the weakest link in the system? In my opinion NO. That is not how they are intended to be used. It is wrong. Attaching the end of the chain back to the chain itself captures a link, and that is just a bad thing because chain is not intented to be used this way. I have never seen a rating based on using chain this way (it is probably not rated when used this way), but my *guess* is that it reduces the effeciency by at least 25%, maybe more. We often say on this list that you never use hardware in a way not intended my the manufacturer. Well, here is an example. The *real* question that Mike asked was: Does the recently accepted standard for attaching trim chains to lift lines say that it is acceptable is to attach the shackle back to the chain rather than to the thimble eye? I do not know. If we assume that this is a standard that was developed by ESTA, Karl should be able to tell us a definate YES or NO. -Delbert -- Delbert L. Hall ZFX Flying Director Phone: 714-585-7070 ------------------------------ Message-ID: Date: Fri, 23 Jun 2006 07:34:46 -0400 From: "Delbert Hall" Subject: Re: Trim chain termination In-Reply-To: References: I do know why some hardware would use different design factors for rating their WLLs than other types of hardware, but why would a pear ring's DF be 6 and an Oblong ring's DF be 5? Nether have any moving parts. -Delbert -- Delbert L. Hall ZFX Flying Director Phone: 714-585-7070 ------------------------------ Reply-To: From: "Peter Scheu" Subject: RE: Trim chain termination Date: Fri, 23 Jun 2006 07:54:55 -0400 Organization: Scheu Consulting Services, Inc. Message-ID: In-reply-to: >But a lock block's WLL is base on a design factor of 8 I assume you meant "loft" block. 8:1? That's a big assumption, as that's not really the case. = Manufacturers rate their loftblocks based on many factors, not just a "design factor = of 8". They figure in bearing type, life, anticipated speeds, yield of = steel, tread pressures of the sheave materials (nylatron, nylon, cast iron, = steel, what have you), yada, yada, yada...=20 You should note that Clancy uses the term "Recommended Working Load" = when rating their blocks, not "Working Load Limit" (WLL). There's a reason = for that. They have not just taken the point at which the block failed in destructive testing and then applied a "design factor" like with chain = or cable (a block rated with an RWL of 500 lb did not "fail" at 4,000 lb). = They made specific engineering decisions about each component in the block = and then made a "recommendation" that they were comfortable with. For = example, they only figure a 5:1 yield factor in the steel they use for sideplates = and base angles. And yes, the draft ESTA standards for counterweight rigging equipment = have trim chains arranged in a dual load path configuration. So this will be = the "industry standard". Peter Scheu =20 ETCP Certified Rigger - Theatre Scheu Consulting Services, Inc. Syracuse, NY www.scheuconsulting.com ------------------------------ Date: Fri, 23 Jun 2006 06:56:19 -0500 From: "Jeff Mabray" Subject: RE: Trim chain termination In-reply-to: Message-id: This is my argument against consultants who specify grade 80 trim chain. The Grid itself is likely to fail before the trim chain does. -----Original Message----- From: Stagecraft [mailto:stagecraft [at] theatrical.net]On Behalf Of Bill Sapsis Sent: Thursday, June 22, 2006 11:29 PM To: Stagecraft Subject: Re: Trim chain termination For info, archives & UNSUBSCRIBE, see --------------------------------------------------- Ah, no. I don't believe the rep is wrong. He/she simply has a different opinion. Let's take a look at 1/4" proof coil chain. It has an identified Working Load Limit (WLL) of 1,200 pounds. (+/- a little bit depending on the manufacturer). Does that make it the weak link (sorry) in the system? No. The WLL of 1/4" galvanized aircraft cable is 1,000 pounds. Assuming you are using wire rope clips to terminate the wire rope, then the WLL is reduced to 800 pounds. If you are using swage fittings then the WLL of the cable is 950 pounds. So, does that make the cable the weak link? No again. Check out what the rigging equipment manufacturer rates their loft blocks for and you will discover that the loft block is usually the weak link. Bottom line....it doesn't matter how you terminate the trim chain, it will still have a load rating far and above the other components in the system. I do not care how you connect the trim chain as long as the method used maintains its' load rating. I do know that if you put the shackle back into the thimbled eye then trimming the batten becomes a bit more difficult. Bill S. ETCP Certified Rigger - Theatre www.sapsis-rigging.com 800.727.7471 267.278.4561 mobile Join the Long Reach Long Riders on their 3rd annual cross country charity motorcycle ride. On 6/22/06 5:50 PM, "Delbert Hall" wrote: > For info, archives & UNSUBSCRIBE, see > --------------------------------------------------- > > Mike, > > You are correct, the sales/installation rep is WRONG. When you > connect the chain back to the thimble, no link in the chain takes more > than half the load on that point. If you attach back to the chain, as > he suggested, links of the chain end up taking the full load > (remember: 1/4" proof coil chain is NOT rated for overhad lifting). > Plus, by connectly the end of the chain back to itself, you have a > "trapped link" at the connection (a bad thing). I would avoid this > company. And good for you for knowing the correct way to do this. > > -Delbert ------------------------------ Date: Fri, 23 Jun 2006 08:58:24 -0400 Subject: Re: Trim chain termination From: Bill Sapsis Message-ID: In-Reply-To: On 6/23/06 7:14 AM, "Delbert Hall" wrote: > For info, archives & UNSUBSCRIBE, see > --------------------------------------------------- > > It is very interesting (I am not sure of the reason - maybe some will > tell me) but WLLs are are calculated differently for different pieces > of hardware. Bill noted that the loft blocks are the weakest links > based on their WLLs. But a lock block's WLL is base on a design factor > of 8 while a chain's WLL is based on a design factor of 4 (a shackle's > WLL is based on a design factor of 6 and GAC's WWL is based on a > design factor of 5). See the problem of using WLL's? You are not > comparing apples to apples. If you use an items breacking strength as > the your guage of what is the weakest link in the system, then the > trim chain is probably the weakest link (no pun intended). The WWL of the chain I mentioned is based on a design factor of 7, not 4. The WWL limit of the shackles I sell are based on a design factor of 7, not 6. The WLL of the galvanized aircraft cable I sell, as well as everyone else that I know of that sells GAC in this country is based on a design factor of 7, not 5. You are right, I am not comparing apples to apples. I am comparing shackles to shackles, wire rope to wire rope and chain to chain. > > Technically, the WLL of a side-loaded 1/4" schackle is greater that > the WLL of a typical loft block (500 lbs in most cases). So is > side-loading shackles OK if the shackle is not the weakest link in the > system? In my opinion NO. That is not how they are intended to be > used. It is wrong. Yes, side loading a shackle is wrong. > > Attaching the end of the chain back to the chain itself captures a > link, and that is just a bad thing because chain is not intented to be > used this way. I have never seen a rating based on using chain this > way (it is probably not rated when used this way), but my *guess* is > that it reduces the effeciency by at least 25%, maybe more. We often > say on this list that you never use hardware in a way not intended my > the manufacturer. Well, here is an example. That's odd. I have discussed it with the manufacturer and they couldn't care less. Have you ever seen a chain shackle or chain hook used by a crane or as a tie down on a flatbed truck? These elements use internal links of the chain all the time. > > The *real* question that Mike asked was: Does the recently accepted > standard for attaching trim chains to lift lines say that it is > acceptable is to attach the shackle back to the chain rather than to > the thimble eye? I do not know. If we assume that this is a standard > that was developed by ESTA, Karl should be able to tell us a definate > YES or NO. Actually, I can give you the *real* answer as any 'standards' for stage rigging come from the Rigging Working Group, of which I am the chair. There is not yet an ANSI Standard that covers trim chains. There is a DRAFT document (E1.4 Manual Rigging Systems) that is going through the development process and, if accepted, will eventually become an ANSI Standard. This document covers manual counterweight rigging systems, including trim chains. However, the DRAFT document should not be considered a standard until it actually becomes an ANSI Standard as elements of the document, or possibly the entire document, could change up until the time it is approved. Discussion of the document as a Standard is premature. Thanks Bill S. ETCP Certified Rigger - Theatre www.sapsis-rigging.com 800.727.7471 267.278.4561 mobile Join the Long Reach Long Riders on their 3rd annual cross country charity motorcycle ride. ------------------------------ Message-ID: <8231e7ea0606230705k750b0d43hfb65638aee2d837c [at] mail.gmail.com> Date: Fri, 23 Jun 2006 10:05:19 -0400 From: SS Subject: Re: painting wood grain... In-Reply-To: References: > The best wood grain floor I ever did was using a faux wood grain tool from > the Lowe's or Home Depot. You paint the floor in one color of brown, let > that dry, then paint on a darker brown and drag the tool through the wet > paint. A little rocking motion creates the variations in grain. Look for it > in the faux paint tools section. This was for a floor in a small theatre > where the audience was very close. It looked so realistic, I had people > coming up after the show and reaching down to feel the floor to check if it > was real wood. I have done variations of the same method. Only we used a broom. It worked well. Up close you could tell, but in a proscenium house, the audience was none the wiser. Based off Laura's comments/reviews however, I wish that tool had existed, or at the very least, we had known it existed!! -SS TTS-EKU "if my calculations are correct SLINKY + ESCALATOR = EVERLASTING FUN" ------------------------------ Message-ID: <001901c696ce$2a39d3a0$6c01a8c0 [at] BCA1> Reply-To: "Bill Conner" From: "Bill Conner" Subject: Re: Theatre Engineering and Architecture Conference Date: Fri, 23 Jun 2006 09:06:03 -0500 Stan posted: "Bill might have mentioned that these points were made during the keynote address by a member of the Stagecraft list, to be specific, ME!" In fact, the comment about being able to hang things anyplace was first heard from Stan but all of the other points, including Stan's, are from my notes of a session entitled "Backstage Planning". In the informal context of Stagecraft, I didn't think the formalities of attribution were really necessary but this panel that was most important to my post was moderated by Ken Bennett-Hunter and included Petrus Bertschinger, Scott Ambler, Blossom Beale, and Barbara Eifler. Bill C., ASTC, ETCP CR-T ------------------------------ Message-ID: <8231e7ea0606230708t56a2b43dic72c4ae562f6061f [at] mail.gmail.com> Date: Fri, 23 Jun 2006 10:08:02 -0400 From: SS Subject: Re: Long Reach Long Riders In-Reply-To: References: > Bill, > I would be interested in something similar also. I > would bet that most of the people at work haven't > heard of LRLR, but hopefully a few will want to > donate. Well, since everyone else is chiming in, I'd also be interested. Can pass it around to others, hang it on the office bulletin board, etc etc. Is a good idea. Any possible little bit counts right? Never know what might come of it. Thanks. -SS TTS-EKU "if my calculations are correct SLINKY + ESCALATOR = EVERLASTING FUN" ------------------------------ From: "G. D. George" Subject: RE: painting wood grain... Date: Fri, 23 Jun 2006 10:18:28 -0400 Message-ID: <000f01c696cf$e5d07b40$4dbb85cd [at] cms100384> In-reply-to: The wood grain tools are nice but, IMHO not necessary. Using a cheap chip brush (preferably bristle) about as wide as the "board", simply dry brush an appropriate highlight and a shadow onto your base coated surface. The dryer the brush the better, but you'll find that really nice variations occur. Cheers, Jerry G. D. George gdgeorge [at] wowway.com -----Original Message----- From: Stagecraft [mailto:stagecraft [at] theatrical.net] On Behalf Of Shelley Seifert Sent: Thursday, June 22, 2006 11:45 PM To: Stagecraft Subject: painting wood grain... For info, archives & UNSUBSCRIBE, see --------------------------------------------------- Question: Any quick and easy way to paint wood grain on a floor? Any ideas would be most helpful. Thanks for your time. Shellene Seifert _________________________________________________________________ Express yourself instantly with MSN Messenger! Download today - it's FREE! http://messenger.msn.click-url.com/go/onm00200471ave/direct/01/ ------------------------------ Message-ID: <003001c696d2$dd074ea0$0202a8c0 [at] HUNKACRAP> From: "Paul Guncheon" References: Subject: Re: painting wood grain... Date: Fri, 23 Jun 2006 04:39:41 -1000 <> http://www.ugl.com/H2Staingrainframe.html This tool is pretty easy to use and you can probably get one at a good paint store near you.. A painter friend of mine maintains that successful faux finishing if 95% color. Getting the right colors to match the real thing is crucial. Laters, Paul "So this is where they make movies," Tom said studiously. ------------------------------ Date: Fri, 23 Jun 2006 08:11:06 -0700 From: Jerry Durand Subject: Re: Water flow rate calculation In-reply-to: Message-id: <7.0.1.0.0.20060623080840.01f795e0 [at] interstellar.com> References: At 03:01 AM 6/22/2006, Bill Nelson wrote: >For your purposes, unless the tubing diameter is very small, wall friction >difference should be negligible. Thanks. With the hand waving of wrong tubing type, etc., I see I should get 2 gpm or better at the far end, enough for what's needed. I intend to make the entire run as one new piece of tubing so there will only be one fitting on each end to deal with. -- Jerry Durand, Durand Interstellar, Inc. www.interstellar.com 219 Oak Wood Way, Los Gatos, California 95032-2523 USA tel: +1 408 356-3886, USA toll free: 1 866 356-3886 Skype: jerrydurand ------------------------------ Message-ID: <000701c696e9$b2641e50$0600000a [at] BRUTUS> From: "Jon Ares" References: Subject: Re: painting wood grain... Date: Fri, 23 Jun 2006 10:23:08 -0700 > Any quick and easy way to paint wood grain on a floor? Any ideas would > be most helpful. Thanks for your time. There's many things I do well, but when it comes to scenic painting, some have said I give good floor. :) There are many ways to do a wood grain floor - those wood grain toolz from the paint store/big box store work well (with practice) if it's a small-ish area, and people are going to see it up close. But if the scale of the floor is large, I've got some better techniques. My 2 favorite paint brushes are the push broom, and the corn/straw-type broom (natural bristle). Lay down a base wood color (a light color) and either use a semi-gloss, or use scenic paint and add something like Rosco Clear Acrylic to it. When you have the base coat dry, you want a bit of sheen and smoothness to it. Next, mix up a glaze of a darker wood tone, again, using some clear acrylic gloss in it. I then use a soft, clean paint pad to apply a stripe of the darker brown over the base color. Then I drag the straw broom with a long, even, and STRAIGHT stroke - removing some of the dark brown color off the lighter base. It looks great. (This technique can also be used on walls, when doing paneling.) The push broom technique: basically the same, but dragging a stiff-bristled push broom just allows you to do a wider swath. I did a very convincing gymnasium floor for a show this way once. Note that a lot of floors are made of tongue-and-groove wood where each stick has some color variation. For this, mix up several shades of the brown top glaze, and 'paint' stripes onto the paint pad, then drag the stripey paint pad over the base coat. Next, drag your broom of choice through that - and voila, a floor with individual sticks of wood. I have examples of that very technique in my pictures of LOOT at http://www.hevanet.com/acreative/loot/loot_base.html or http://tinyurl.com/l3qjc . I painted the floor on a layer of masonite. I did the whisk broom gag to the wainscoting on that set as well. - Jon Ares www.hevanet.com/acreative ------------------------------ Message-Id: <3.0.6.32.20060623103543.00c10008 [at] pop.west.cox.net> Date: Fri, 23 Jun 2006 10:35:43 From: CB Subject: Re: painting wood grain... > Any quick and easy way to paint wood grain on a floor? Any ideas would >be most helpful. Thanks for your time. Well, I stained a piece of MDF as a base for some seats I sto... er liberated from an old theatre that was being renovated. Later, I accidently spattered the surface, and trying to brush that out with an almost drybrush, it ended up looking like grain. When I was finished, I asked my carp buddy what kind of wood it looked like. He thought it was Mahogany. Chris "Chris" Babbie Location Sound MON AZ Delete key training and post trimming done by appointment. Rates negotiable, will trade for typing lessons/ADD treatment... ------------------------------ Message-Id: Date: Fri, 23 Jun 2006 14:01:39 -0500 From: "Susan Wolverton" Subject: job opening Full-time technical director/lighting designer for ten-month contract at = small, private, liberal arts college in Cedar Rapids, Iowa. For full job = description please contact me. Start date. August 1, 2006. ------------------------------ Subject: RE: Trim chain termination Date: Fri, 23 Jun 2006 16:42:31 -0400 Message-ID: From: "Salvatori, Jason" >It is extremely difficult to inflict a measurable shock load on a = manually >operated counterweight system. Unless, of course, you have a couple of = the >guys from the football team jumping off the locking rail to get the = lines >started. Or if you have an inexperienced fly person grid a 400# set piece at show speed... The whole thing jumps, bends the pipe, and shocks every part of = the system. Jason _________________________________________________________________________= _ This e-mail, including any attachment(s), may be confidential and is = intended solely for the attention and information of the named = addressee(s). If you are not the intended recipient or have received = this message in error, please notify me immediately by return e-mail and = permanently delete the original transmission from your computer, = including any attachment(s). Any unauthorized distribution, disclosure = or copying of this message and attachment(s) by anyone other than the = recipient is strictly prohibited. ------------------------------ Message-ID: In-Reply-To: From: "Shelley Seifert" Subject: painting wood grain... Date: Fri, 23 Jun 2006 17:47:18 -0400 Thank you! >From: "Laura McMeley" >Reply-To: "Stagecraft" >To: "Stagecraft" >Subject: Re: painting wood grain... >Date: Thu, 22 Jun 2006 23:16:38 -0500 > >For info, archives & UNSUBSCRIBE, see >--------------------------------------------------- > >The best wood grain floor I ever did was using a faux wood grain tool from >the Lowe's or Home Depot. You paint the floor in one color of brown, let >that dry, then paint on a darker brown and drag the tool through the wet >paint. A little rocking motion creates the variations in grain. Look for it >in the faux paint tools section. This was for a floor in a small theatre >where the audience was very close. It looked so realistic, I had people >coming up after the show and reaching down to feel the floor to check if it >was real wood. > >Laura, LD and sometimes Scenic Designer, Dallas, TX > > > -----Original Message----- > > From: Stagecraft [mailto:stagecraft [at] theatrical.net] On Behalf Of Shelley > > Seifert > > Sent: Thursday, June 22, 2006 10:45 PM > > To: Stagecraft > > Subject: painting wood grain... > > > > For info, archives & UNSUBSCRIBE, see > > --------------------------------------------------- > > > > > > > > > > Question: > > > > Any quick and easy way to paint wood grain on a floor? Any ideas >would > > be most helpful. Thanks for your time. > > > > Shellene Seifert > > > > _________________________________________________________________ > > Express yourself instantly with MSN Messenger! Download today - it's >FREE! > > http://messenger.msn.click-url.com/go/onm00200471ave/direct/01/ > _________________________________________________________________ Don’t just search. Find. Check out the new MSN Search! http://search.msn.click-url.com/go/onm00200636ave/direct/01/ ------------------------------ Message-ID: Date: Fri, 23 Jun 2006 21:15:37 -0400 From: "Delbert Hall" Subject: Re: Trim chain termination In-Reply-To: References: The design factors that I quoted in my post, except for the DF of 8 for loft blocks, were taken from the "Rated Capacity Table" by (Harry) Donovan Rigging Inc. Harry noted in this table that the chain ratings are from the American Society of Mechanical Engineers, wire rope ratings are from the Wire Rope Technical Board, and hardware ratings are from Crosby. I looked through my rigging notes and discovered that although Wire Rope Technical Board use a DF of 5 for rating the WLL of 7x19 aircraft cable, the recommended minimum DF for that cable when it is used in a mechanical counterweight system is 8. This is probably what I was thinking of when I said that the design factor for loft blocks was 8, so my statement was in error. I could not find a specific recommended DF for loft blocks, I know that Clancy uses the term "Recommended Working Load" but they also say "Safe Working Load" and "Working Load Limit" are similar terms used by other manufacturers (http://www.jrclancy.com/technical_terms05.htm#romeo). Bill S. said: > Actually, I can give you the *real* answer as any 'standards' for stage > rigging come from the Rigging Working Group, of which I am the chair. There > is not yet an ANSI Standard that covers trim chains. There is a DRAFT > document (E1.4 Manual Rigging Systems) that is going through the > development process and, if accepted, will eventually become an ANSI > Standard. This document covers manual counterweight rigging systems, > including trim chains. However, the DRAFT document should not be considered > a standard until it actually becomes an ANSI Standard as elements of the > document, or possibly the entire document, could change up until the time it > is approved. Discussion of the document as a Standard is premature. So based on Bill's response, the rep that told Mike "the recently accepted standard for attaching trim chains to lift lines is to shackle back to the chain rather than to the thimble eye" was wrong since there has been no recently accepted standard. I stick to my earlier statement, "I would avoid this company." -Delbert -- Delbert L. Hall ZFX Flying Director Phone: 714-585-7070 ------------------------------ Message-ID: <449C96BB.4050806 [at] peak.org> Date: Fri, 23 Jun 2006 18:34:51 -0700 From: Pat Kight Subject: Re: painting wood grain... References: In-Reply-To: Jon Ares wrote: > There's many things I do well, but when it comes to scenic painting, > some have said I give good floor. :) From the evidence of your photos, Jon, I'd have to agree. That's some nice work. > > There are many ways to do a wood grain floor - those wood grain toolz > from the paint store/big box store work well (with practice) if it's a > small-ish area, and people are going to see it up close. But if the > scale of the floor is large, I've got some better techniques. > > My 2 favorite paint brushes are the push broom, and the corn/straw-type > broom (natural bristle). Lay down a base wood color (a light color) and > either use a semi-gloss, or use scenic paint and add something like > Rosco Clear Acrylic to it. When you have the base coat dry, you want a > bit of sheen and smoothness to it. Next, mix up a glaze of a darker > wood tone, again, using some clear acrylic gloss in it. I then use a > soft, clean paint pad to apply a stripe of the darker brown over the > base color. Then I drag the straw broom with a long, even, and STRAIGHT > stroke - removing some of the dark brown color off the lighter base. It > looks great. (This technique can also be used on walls, when doing > paneling.) > > The push broom technique: basically the same, but dragging a > stiff-bristled push broom just allows you to do a wider swath. I did a > very convincing gymnasium floor for a show this way once. I much prefer this sort of technique to the commercial wood-graining tools, as well - in part because it's relatively quick, and in part because it can be done from a normal standing position. My knees, hips and lower back are getting too damned old for crawling around on the floor. )-: -- Pat Kight Albany Civic Theater kightp [at] peak.org ------------------------------ Reply-To: From: "RD" Subject: RE: Trim chain termination Date: Fri, 23 Jun 2006 21:22:02 -0600 Message-ID: <01dc01c6973d$5d32fe20$c083c447 [at] doom1> In-reply-to: Oh golly, that opens the can of worms. Inexperienced people at the 120,000 schools in the country that have bent pipes, etc. Yes. Been there ... inspected that ... frequently. Doom -----Original Message----- From: Stagecraft [mailto:stagecraft [at] theatrical.net] On Behalf Of Salvatori, Jason Sent: Friday, June 23, 2006 2:43 PM To: Stagecraft Subject: Re: Trim chain termination For info, archives & UNSUBSCRIBE, see --------------------------------------------------- >It is extremely difficult to inflict a measurable shock load on a manually >operated counterweight system. Unless, of course, you have a couple of the >guys from the football team jumping off the locking rail to get the lines >started. Or if you have an inexperienced fly person grid a 400# set piece at show speed... The whole thing jumps, bends the pipe, and shocks every part of the system. Jason __________________________________________________________________________ This e-mail, including any attachment(s), may be confidential and is intended solely for the attention and information of the named addressee(s). If you are not the intended recipient or have received this message in error, please notify me immediately by return e-mail and permanently delete the original transmission from your computer, including any attachment(s). Any unauthorized distribution, disclosure or copying of this message and attachment(s) by anyone other than the recipient is strictly prohibited. ------------------------------ Message-ID: From: "dale" Subject: RE: Trim chain termination Date: Fri, 23 Jun 2006 23:55:47 -0700 Message-ID: In-reply-to: interesting... I was taught by donovan* that only one "thing" goes in a thimble... I think, following his example, 2 shackles are needed to properly rig this, no? dale cyr IATSE Local 93 Spokane, Wa * "ARENA RIGGING" by Harry Donovan, 1995, page 11. > -----Original Message----- > From: Stagecraft [mailto:stagecraft [at] theatrical.net] On Behalf Of Delbert > Hall > When you > connect the chain back to the thimble, no link in the chain takes more > than half the load on that point. If you attach back to the chain, as > he suggested, links of the chain end up taking the full load > (remember: 1/4" proof coil chain is NOT rated for overhad lifting). > Plus, by connectly the end of the chain back to itself, you have a > "trapped link" at the connection (a bad thing). I would avoid this > company. And good for you for knowing the correct way to do this. > > -Delbert > -- > Delbert L. Hall > ZFX Flying Director > Phone: 714-585-7070 ------------------------------ Message-ID: <58f67b0f0606240041r129b42aascac02f22109b088 [at] mail.gmail.com> Date: Sat, 24 Jun 2006 02:41:29 -0500 From: "Michael Powers" Subject: Shock loads (was Re: Trim chain termination) Bill Sapsis writes: << ........It is extremely difficult to inflict a measurable shock load on a manually operated counterweight system. Unless, of course, you have a couple of the guys from the football team jumping off the locking rail to get the lines started. ......>> Bill is right, it's very hard. But, there ARE ways (don't try this at home I'm a skilled professional)-(I won't tell them on this list because you'd try them anyway and then I'd have to kill you if you haven't already beaten me to the punch) some of which require design faults or installation errors in the system, most of which result from operator error. In my very first job as a flyman, '63, local 112 OKC, I was a real lightweight, 5'-7" and 129 lbs. For many cues in musicals (FAST was the speed) I stood on the locking rail and jumped up to grab the purchase line and then tried to climb the rope faster than it could come down. OH! YES! The kicker was that I wore a 30 pound scuba belt. (true story) Seriously, here are a couple of ways to create a shock load and if they ever occur, any and all linesets involved need to be inspected and repaired immediately by a qualified professional. 1. Large item of hard scenery, walls, framed portal etc, hits floor at full speed. 2. Batten, loaded or unloaded, hits grid or cable terminations hits loft blocks at speed. -- Michael Michael Powers Director of Operations Central Lighting & Equipment 1720 Fuller Rd. Suite 150 West Des Moines Iowa 50265 515-277-4190 877-977-4190 Fax 515-277-2295 515-557-0178 cell michael [at] clelights.com ------------------------------ Reply-To: From: "RD" Subject: RE: Shock loads (was Re: Trim chain termination) Date: Sat, 24 Jun 2006 01:47:39 -0600 Message-ID: <006201c69762$7954fd40$c083c447 [at] doom1> In-reply-to: ABSOLUTELY CORRECT. SHOCK LOADS OCCUR MORE OFTEN THAN MOST MIGHT BELIEVE OR THINK OR KNOW .... DOOM -----Original Message----- From: Stagecraft [mailto:stagecraft [at] theatrical.net] On Behalf Of Michael Powers Sent: Saturday, June 24, 2006 1:41 AM To: Stagecraft Subject: Shock loads (was Re: Trim chain termination) For info, archives & UNSUBSCRIBE, see --------------------------------------------------- Bill Sapsis writes: << ........It is extremely difficult to inflict a measurable shock load on a manually operated counterweight system. Unless, of course, you have a couple of the guys from the football team jumping off the locking rail to get the lines started. ......>> Bill is right, it's very hard. But, there ARE ways (don't try this at home I'm a skilled professional)-(I won't tell them on this list because you'd try them anyway and then I'd have to kill you if you haven't already beaten me to the punch) some of which require design faults or installation errors in the system, most of which result from operator error. In my very first job as a flyman, '63, local 112 OKC, I was a real lightweight, 5'-7" and 129 lbs. For many cues in musicals (FAST was the speed) I stood on the locking rail and jumped up to grab the purchase line and then tried to climb the rope faster than it could come down. OH! YES! The kicker was that I wore a 30 pound scuba belt. (true story) Seriously, here are a couple of ways to create a shock load and if they ever occur, any and all linesets involved need to be inspected and repaired immediately by a qualified professional. 1. Large item of hard scenery, walls, framed portal etc, hits floor at full speed. 2. Batten, loaded or unloaded, hits grid or cable terminations hits loft blocks at speed. -- Michael Michael Powers Director of Operations Central Lighting & Equipment 1720 Fuller Rd. Suite 150 West Des Moines Iowa 50265 515-277-4190 877-977-4190 Fax 515-277-2295 515-557-0178 cell michael [at] clelights.com ------------------------------ Date: Sat, 24 Jun 2006 05:22:33 -0400 From: Kevin Lee Allen Subject: Re: painting wood grain... In-reply-to: Message-id: <12F1F904-142E-447F-9D5B-3C267D47C74C [at] klad.com> References: I was going to suggest a similar approach using a 9" sizing brush. Works best if it is an old brush that doesn't give an even coat. I would add that the second glaze should be pretty translucent, let a sample dry someplace off stage. Better yet, create some samples and practise. On Jun 23, 2006, at 1:23 PM, Jon Ares wrote: > My 2 favorite paint brushes are the push broom, and the corn/straw- > type broom (natural bristle). Lay down a base wood color (a light > color) and either use a semi-gloss, or use scenic paint and add > something like Rosco Clear Acrylic to it. When you have the base > coat dry, you want a bit of sheen and smoothness to it. Next, mix > up a glaze of a darker wood tone, again, using some clear acrylic > gloss in it. I then use a soft, clean paint pad to apply a stripe > of the darker brown over the base color. Then I drag the straw > broom with a long, even, and STRAIGHT stroke - removing some of the > dark brown color off the lighter base. It looks great. (This > technique can also be used on walls, when doing paneling.) > ----- Kevin Lee Allen Architect of Dreams http://www.klad.com 973.744.6352.voice 201.280.3841.mobile klad [at] klad.com ------------------------------ End of Stagecraft Digest #854 *****************************