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X-Real-To: stagecraftlist [at] theatrical.net Received: by prxy.net (CommuniGate Pro PIPE 4.2.10) with PIPE id 31641441; Thu, 29 Jun 2006 23:03:42 -0700 X-Spam-Status: No, score=-3.5 required=5.0 tests=ADVANCE_FEE_1,AWL,BAYES_00, NO_RECEIVED,NO_RELAYS autolearn=ham version=3.1.3 X-Spam-Checker-Version: SpamAssassin 3.1.3 (2006-06-01) on localhost X-Spam-Level: X-ListServer: CommuniGate Pro LIST 4.2.10 List-Unsubscribe: List-ID: Message-ID: From: "Stagecraft" Sender: "Stagecraft" To: "Stagecraft" Precedence: list Subject: Stagecraft Digest #860 Date: Thu, 29 Jun 2006 23:02:35 -0700 MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="ISO-8859-1" Content-Disposition: inline X-TFF-CGPSA-Version: 1.4 X-prxy-Spam-Filter: Scanned For info, archives & UNSUBSCRIBE, see --------------------------------------------------- Stagecraft Digest, Issue #860 1. Re: GFCI outlets - You're right, I'm wrong. by "Bill Nelson" 2. Re: GFCI outlets by Allison Helms 3. Re: GFCI outlets by BC 4. Re: ETC Express tutorial by "C. Dopher" 5. Re: OT: Question for fellow Macheads by Stephen Litterst 6. Re: ETC Express tutorial by Stephen Litterst 7. Re: OT: Question for fellow Macheads by Bill Sapsis 8. Re: OT: Question for fellow Macheads by Stephen Litterst 9. Re: Top Hats by Christopher Burkholder 10. flashing lights by iaeg [at] aol.com 11. Re: OT: Question for fellow Macheads by "Bruce Lehnus" 12. Re: ETC Express tutorial by Bruce Purdy 13. Re: GFCI outlets - You're right, I'm wrong. by Jerry Durand 14. Re: ETC Express tutorial by Stephen Litterst 15. Re: ETC Express tutorial by "Matthew Breton" 16. Re: ETC Express tutorial by "Delbert Hall" 17. Re: ETC Express tutorial by "John Penisten" 18. Re: ETC Express tutorial by Jerry Durand 19. Re: ETC Express tutorial by "Bill Nelson" 20. Re: ETC Express tutorial by Clive Mitchell 21. Re: GFCI outlets by Clive Mitchell 22. Re: ETC Express tutorial by Stephen Litterst 23. Re: ETC Express tutorial by "Paul Schreiner" 24. Re: ETC Express tutorial by John McKernon 25. Re: ETC Express tutorial by "Bill Nelson" 26. Re: GFCI outlets - You're right, I'm wrong. by "Bill Nelson" 27. Re: ETC Express tutorial by stagecraft [at] jeffsalzberg.com 28. Re: Tutorial for ETC Express SOURCE by Steve Shelley 29. Re: Tutorial for ETC Express SOURCE by Stephen Litterst 30. Re: GFCI outlets - You're right, I'm wrong. by Jim Hyslop 31. Re: GFCI outlets by Jim Hyslop 32. Re: Tutorial for ETC Express SOURCE by Steve Shelley 33. Re: GFCI outlets by "Jim at TheatreWireless.com" 34. Re: GFCI outlets by Steve Larson 35. Re: GFCI outlets - You're right, I'm wrong. by Greg Persinger 36. Re: GFCI outlets by "Jim at TheatreWireless.com" 37. Re: ETC Express tutorial by Phil Johnson 38. Re: GFCI outlets - You're right, I'm wrong. by Clive Mitchell 39. Re: GFCI outlets - You're right, I'm wrong. by Clive Mitchell 40. Re: GFCI outlets by Clive Mitchell 41. Re: GFCI outlets - You're right, I'm wrong. by Jim Hyslop 42. Re: a rant about magazine editors (was: Leico light? ) by CB 43. Re: GFCI outlets - You're right, I'm wrong. by rwhitco [at] comcast.net (Randy Whitcomb) 44. Boy Dies After Disney Roller Coaster Ride by Theatre Safety Programs 45. Re: GFCI outlets - You're right, I'm wrong. by Stuart Wheaton 46. Re: Boy Dies After Disney Roller Coaster Ride by iaeg [at] aol.com 47. Inverted Chain Motors by Samuel Jones 48. Re: Inverted Chain Motors by Bill Sapsis 49. Re: GFCI outlets by "Ken Romaine" 50. Fogger / hazer feedback sought... by "Steve Jones" 51. Re: GFCI outlets by "Mt. Angel Performing Arts Center" 52. Re: ETC Express tutorial by "John Penisten" 53. Re: GFCI outlets - You're right, I'm wrong. by Clive Mitchell 54. Re: Boy Dies After Disney Roller Coaster Ride by Clive Mitchell 55. Re: GFCI outlets by Clive Mitchell 56. Re: GFCI outlets - You're right, I'm wrong. by Jerry Durand 57. Re: GFCI outlets - You're right, I'm wrong. by Dale Farmer 58. Re: ETC Express tutorial by BC 59. Festoon Lighting by "Idaho Scenic & Rigging" 60. Re: GFCI outlets - You're right, I'm wrong. by Clive Mitchell 61. Re: Festoon Lighting by Clive Mitchell 62. Re: GFCI outlets - You're right, I'm wrong. by Jerry Durand 63. Re: GFCI outlets - You're right, I'm wrong. by Clive Mitchell 64. Re: GFCI outlets - You're right, I'm wrong. by "Jon Ares" 65. Re: Festoon Lighting by "Idaho Scenic & Rigging" 66. Re: GFCI outlets - You're right, I'm wrong. by "Idaho Scenic & Rigging" 67. Re: Boy Dies After Disney Roller Coaster Ride by jon weaver 68. Re: GFCI outlets - You're right, I'm wrong. by Jerry Durand 69. Re: GFCI outlets - You're right, I'm wrong. by "Jon Ares" 70. Re: GFCI outlets - You're right, I'm wrong. by Jerry Durand 71. Re: Fogger / hazer feedback sought... by StevevETTrn [at] aol.com 72. Re: GFCI outlets - You're right, I'm wrong. by "chip.a.wood" 73. In the News by "Jeffrey E. Salzberg" 74. Re: In the News by "Jon Ares" *** Please update the subject line of your reply to use the subject *** line of the message you are replying to! Please only reply to *** one message subject in each reply. ---------------------------------------------------------------------- Message-ID: <1396.205.215.255.19.1151581028.squirrel [at] webmail.peak.org> In-Reply-To: References:

Date: Thu, 29 Jun 2006 04:37:08 -0700 (PDT) Subject: Re: GFCI outlets - You're right, I'm wrong. From: "Bill Nelson" > I have a house built in the 40's and all of the original wiring is two > conductor and no ground. I HATE this but it is not possible to replace > some > of the wiring without removing the plaster and lath on the walls so I have > been looking at replacing the two conductor outlets with GFCI outlets at > the advice of some of my licensed electrician friends. I am in the same boat - THICK lath and plaster on the inside - including the ceilings. There is an option, but it is also a real pain. That would be removing all the outside beveled siding and change the wiring from there. I also consider that rather unreasonable. Since I am the only one in the house, I consider GFCI to be an acceptable substitute - and am installing the outlets in all rooms, even where they are not required by code. With the limited number of outlets available, that is somewhat less expensive than the other alternative of installing GFCI circuit breakers on all outlet circuits in the distribution panel. Bill ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 29 Jun 2006 08:35:29 -0400 Subject: Re: GFCI outlets From: Allison Helms Message-ID: In-Reply-To: As a side note. The guy who developed the GFCI did so because his daughter was electrocuted by a hair dryer in the bathtub. For those with old houses. I suggest looking into arc fault circuit interrupters (AFCI). They function in a similar manner to GFCI's. The AFCI is designed to sense low and erratic current. Something that could happen if while hanging a picture your nail grazed a piece of wiring. They are slightly more expensive than a regular circuit breaker, but worth looking into. > > A double-insulated device like a hairdryer can still pose a risk if it is, > say, dropped into a bathtub full of water. The water is grounded through > the drain pipe, and the heating coils are live. Water will get to those > coils, and the water is a path to ground. A person in the bathtub might > suffer a shock. ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 29 Jun 2006 09:03:46 -0400 From: BC Subject: Re: GFCI outlets Reply-to: BC Message-id: <001c01c69b7c$75b676a0$6401a8c0 [at] SBFF> References: ----- Original Message ----- From: "Allison Helms" > > For those with old houses. I suggest looking into arc fault circuit > interrupters (AFCI). They function in a similar manner to GFCI's. The > AFCI > is designed to sense low and erratic current. Something that could happen > if while hanging a picture your nail grazed a piece of wiring. They are > slightly more expensive than a regular circuit breaker, but worth looking > into. These devices are often required, in some juristictions, for bedrooms. Not sure if they require a ground wire back to SE. Steve Bailey Brooklyn College ------------------------------ In-Reply-To: References: Message-Id: <3186D041-7999-4FF3-99A9-8EB20D12BF6B [at] dopher.com> From: "C. Dopher" Subject: Re: ETC Express tutorial Date: Thu, 29 Jun 2006 09:08:00 -0400 Bruce wrote: > Some lights kept showing up in cues where they shouldn't have > been, and > I was sweating bullets backstage trying to figure from, how I might > have > miss-programmed the cues. Later that night, after everyone had gone > home, I > ran all cues to see which ones were wrong, but every one was perfect. > > I finally figured out that the Op had pressed the wrong "Go" > button at > least once, and that cue didn't go away. I immediately crafted a > box (Out of > an old cardboard box that Bic pens came in and Gaff tape) and > covered the > other sliders and all associated buttons. It may be my teacher's background, but I prefer to extend board op training by a few minutes than tape a cardboard box to the lighting board. Something about the box - or wads of tape or whatever fixes TDs come up with - smacks as unprofessional. "But they're STUDENTS!" I hear you saying, "They're not supposed to be professionals." No, but it is a subtle disservice to the students not to treat them as burgeoning professionals even if that's not where their career track is pointed. Invariably, I have met with success when equipping a new (or even previously experienced) board op with enough knowledge to not only run the cues, but do their own dimmer checks and troubleshooting. I specifically point out the two-fader problem and point out that part of their job is to be an active observer. After a couple of run- thrus, they should know how the cues look and if something is amiss, they should check a, b, and c (with "a" always being "is there a cue loaded in the other fader by accident?"). This is true responsiblity and it elevates the job from button-pusher to lighting board operator. The student (or volunteer op, as many seem to be) pick up on this and I am always rewarded. There's been more than once an observant board op figured out a problem before I did (usually when the blackout key is activated). And while I do believe training & empowerment is the better way to go, I also acknowledge that there are situations where the cardboard box is actually smarter than the human.... Cris Dopher LD Resolve Software VW Trainer LRLR Rider ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 29 Jun 2006 09:17:08 -0400 From: Stephen Litterst Subject: Re: OT: Question for fellow Macheads In-reply-to: Message-id: <44A3D2D4.1030006 [at] ithaca.edu> References: Bill Sapsis wrote: > --------------------------------------------------- > Make any sense? > I dunno. I just keep pushing buttons until I get to see the cool flashing > lights. And you told me you weren't a lighting designer. Steve L. -- Stephen Litterst Technical Supervisor Ithaca College, Theatre Arts 607.274.3947 slitterst [at] ithaca.edu ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 29 Jun 2006 09:26:23 -0400 From: Stephen Litterst Subject: Re: ETC Express tutorial In-reply-to: Message-id: <44A3D4FF.8040409 [at] ithaca.edu> References:

C. Dopher wrote: > --------------------------------------------------- > It may be my teacher's background, but I prefer to extend board op > training by a few minutes than tape a cardboard box to the lighting > board. Something about the box - or wads of tape or whatever fixes TDs > come up with - smacks as unprofessional. "But they're STUDENTS!" I hear > you saying, "They're not supposed to be professionals." No, but it is a > subtle disservice to the students not to treat them as burgeoning > professionals even if that's not where their career track is pointed. Personally, the box isn't about treating a student unprofessionally. I cover the unused Go button whenever I'm running an Express(ion) series console. There have been plenty of times in my career when all h*ll breaks loose and I've ended up trying to do three jobs between cues and running to the light board and hitting Go needs to be the simplest task I do. Actually, I never covered the button until I hit the wrong Go during a performance. I realized there's no shame in idiot proofing the console for myself. Steve L. -- Stephen Litterst Technical Supervisor Ithaca College, Theatre Arts 607.274.3947 slitterst [at] ithaca.edu ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 29 Jun 2006 09:29:34 -0400 Subject: Re: OT: Question for fellow Macheads From: Bill Sapsis Message-ID: In-Reply-To: I'm not. LD's do the flashing light thing on purpose. I do it by accident. On 6/29/06 9:17 AM, "Stephen Litterst" wrote: > For info, archives & UNSUBSCRIBE, see > --------------------------------------------------- > > Bill Sapsis wrote: >> --------------------------------------------------- >> Make any sense? >> I dunno. I just keep pushing buttons until I get to see the cool flashing >> lights. > > And you told me you weren't a lighting designer. > > Steve L. ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 29 Jun 2006 09:31:24 -0400 From: Stephen Litterst Subject: Re: OT: Question for fellow Macheads In-reply-to: Message-id: <44A3D62C.5010605 [at] ithaca.edu> References: Bill Sapsis wrote: > For info, archives & UNSUBSCRIBE, see > --------------------------------------------------- > > I'm not. LD's do the flashing light thing on purpose. I do it by accident. I've programmed for many LDs. They just want you to think they do it on purpose. Steve L. -- Stephen Litterst Technical Supervisor Ithaca College, Theatre Arts 607.274.3947 slitterst [at] ithaca.edu ------------------------------ In-Reply-To: Subject: Re: Top Hats Message-ID: From: Christopher Burkholder Date: Thu, 29 Jun 2006 09:30:16 -0400 Thanks for the response but I am not looking for custom work I want to match existing inventory. here is a bit of info that will make this even harder The Top Hat I have is steel and the ring has no seems. Christopher J. Burkholder Lighting & Audio Coordinator cburkhol [at] american.edu Phone: (202) 885-3417 Fax: (202) 885-7831 Greenberg Theatre 4200 Wisconsin Avenue, NW Washington, DC 20016-8149 ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 29 Jun 2006 09:40:07 -0400 From: iaeg [at] aol.com Message-Id: <8C86998AB8B89BB-1C6C-8E7 [at] MBLK-M27.sysops.aol.com> In-Reply-To: Subject: flashing lights < < < I'm not. LD's do the flashing light thing on purpose. I do it by accident. > > > bill, , , , having seen "flashing lights" done by reputable LD's many times, , , your work "by accident" is probably every bit as good. very best, Keith Arsenault International Arts & Entertainment Group Tampa, Florida USA 813 831 3465 office ________________________________________________________________________ Check out AOL.com today. Breaking news, video search, pictures, email and IM. All on demand. Always Free. ------------------------------ From: "Bruce Lehnus" Subject: Re: OT: Question for fellow Macheads Date: Thu, 29 Jun 2006 10:22:43 -0400 Message-ID: <002201c69b87$7cc9ad80$6500a8c0 [at] vaioRg840g> In-Reply-To: Bill S. said: >>>I dunno. I just keep pushing buttons until I get to see the cool flashing lights.<<< Hey Bill, wait a minute! That's MY job!!! Cheers, Bruce ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 29 Jun 2006 10:29:36 -0400 Subject: Re: ETC Express tutorial From: Bruce Purdy Message-ID: In-Reply-To: > It may be my teacher's background, but I prefer to extend board op > training by a few minutes than tape a cardboard box to the lighting > board. Something about the box - or wads of tape or whatever fixes > TDs come up with - smacks as unprofessional. The "extra ten minutes" wouldn't have helped in the case I cited, as it hadn't occurred to me that this could even be a problem. (Still a new board for us) Whilst I understand and respect your opinion, sometimes a "Lockout" of some kind is an important safeguard. The incident I described was the *first* time it happened. Following your thinking, I removed the box after the show closed, but re-installed it after I made the same stupid mistake myself on a different show of pushing the wrong GO button. At least I caught my mistake (D'oh!) and was able to correct it. The problem is that it's too easy a mistake to make! A software lockout would be a more professional approach, but there doesn't appear to be one, so the box becomes a necessary tool. (OK Steve, so there might be *Some* advantaged to your Strand, but I still prefer my ETC) ;-) > And while I do believe training & > empowerment is the better way to go, I also acknowledge that there > are situations where the cardboard box is actually smarter than the > human.... I'm glad that you do understand. Bruce -- Bruce Purdy Technical Director The Smith Opera House ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 29 Jun 2006 08:15:12 -0700 From: Jerry Durand Subject: Re: GFCI outlets - You're right, I'm wrong. In-reply-to: Message-id: <119500E9-BE22-4FA1-8464-F273224DF2CA [at] interstellar.com> References: On Jun 29, 2006, at 1:50 AM, Greg Persinger wrote: > I have a house built in the 40's and all of the original wiring is two > conductor and no ground. I HATE this but it is not possible to > replace some > of the wiring without removing the plaster and lath on the walls so > I have > been looking at replacing the two conductor outlets with GFCI > outlets at the > advice of some of my licensed electrician friends. A trick that worked for us...peel off the baseboard, make a hole that will be covered by the baseboard (even better if you have a gap between the wall and floor like we do), snake a ground wire from the box out the hole. Daisy chain the ground around the room and find a place to have it escape to the next room or a water pipe. Put baseboard back. ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 29 Jun 2006 11:17:30 -0400 From: Stephen Litterst Subject: Re: ETC Express tutorial In-reply-to: Message-id: <44A3EF0A.2090702 [at] ithaca.edu> References: Bruce Purdy wrote: > --------------------------------------------------- > The problem is that it's too easy a mistake to make! A software lockout > would be a more professional approach, but there doesn't appear to be one, > so the box becomes a necessary tool. (OK Steve, so there might be *Some* > advantaged to your Strand, but I still prefer my ETC) ;-) The disadvantage to the software lockout is that if you hit the wrong button, nothing happens. I did have an operator insist that the board was broken b/c the go button didn't do anything. I'd love for the software lockout to activate an error message if the disabled button is pressed. Something like "Hey! You hit the wrong Go button!" In big letters. Maybe an audible, so everyone knows. :-D Steve L. -- Stephen Litterst Technical Supervisor Ithaca College, Theatre Arts 607.274.3947 slitterst [at] ithaca.edu ------------------------------ Message-ID: In-Reply-To: From: "Matthew Breton" Subject: Re: ETC Express tutorial Date: Thu, 29 Jun 2006 11:17:27 -0400 >The problem is that it's too easy a mistake to make! A software lockout >would be a more professional approach, but there doesn't appear to be one, There isn't one -- not in all my years of looking. You can disable the blackout button and the grandmaster, but not the A/B or C/D faders. Occasionally, instead of a box over the faders, I bring both faders to the bottom of the channel and put a strip of tape across both channels, right above the slider handles. It's a little less secure, but much more aesthetically pleasing. A bit of gaff or glow tape pointing to the fader set that I want to use also helps. -- Matt ========= _________________________________________________________________ FREE pop-up blocking with the new MSN Toolbar � get it now! http://toolbar.msn.click-url.com/go/onm00200415ave/direct/01/ ------------------------------ Message-ID: Date: Thu, 29 Jun 2006 11:29:07 -0400 From: "Delbert Hall" Subject: Re: ETC Express tutorial In-Reply-To: References:

ETC does allow you to disable the Grandmaster, so being able to disable one of the faders seems logical too (but you can't do it). Maybe the two faders (and "Go" buttons) should be on opposite sites of the board, or at least color coded. As it is, it is too easy to hit the WRONG "Go" button by mistake. I feel that it is better to do something to prevent a mistake rather than creating something to tell you that you have made a mistake. -Delbert On 6/29/06, Stephen Litterst wrote: > I'd love for the software lockout to activate an error message if the > disabled button is pressed. Something like "Hey! You hit the wrong Go > button!" In big letters. Maybe an audible, so everyone knows. :-D ------------------------------ Message-ID: <87e6786e0606290837g3720cf0ex3a0345045fe9d2fc [at] mail.gmail.com> Date: Thu, 29 Jun 2006 10:37:47 -0500 From: "John Penisten" Subject: Re: ETC Express tutorial In-Reply-To: References:

If you are running an Express 24/48, 48/96, or 72/144, and your OP is only pushing go or using subs, then put the board in two scene mode (setup-system settings-scene mode). A/B GO/HOLD/BACK are, I believe, disabled leaving you with the C/D pair. Seams to work in EOL anyway. Good Luck, John On 6/29/06, Matthew Breton wrote: > For info, archives & UNSUBSCRIBE, see > --------------------------------------------------- > > >The problem is that it's too easy a mistake to make! A software lockout > >would be a more professional approach, but there doesn't appear to be one, > > There isn't one -- not in all my years of looking. You can disable the > blackout button and the grandmaster, but not the A/B or C/D faders. ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 29 Jun 2006 08:39:35 -0700 From: Jerry Durand Subject: Re: ETC Express tutorial In-reply-to: Message-id: <7.0.1.0.0.20060629083300.01f7ab48 [at] interstellar.com> References:

At 08:17 AM 6/29/2006, Stephen Litterst wrote: >I'd love for the software lockout to activate an error message if >the disabled button is pressed. Something like "Hey! You hit the >wrong Go button!" In big letters. Maybe an audible, so everyone knows. :-D I've always had problems getting people to read the nice video monitors we put in front of them. I used to write control programs for semi-automated testing of electronics parts (memories and automotive). I constantly received calls at night and throughout the day saying the machine was down because pressing the GO button didn't do anything. 99.99% of the time when I asked what the screen said, they'd say "don't know, haven't looked". I found most operators had a cheat sheet of what keys to press to bring up the program they needed (without once looking at the screen). If a new version changed anything (like added one more question at startup), it would shut down production in the entire company. Maybe that's why I'm one of the guys who started the computer sound business, that way the computer can yell out "Hey stupid, quit pushing that button and look at the screen!". :) -- Jerry Durand, Durand Interstellar, Inc. www.interstellar.com 219 Oak Wood Way, Los Gatos, California 95032-2523 USA tel: +1 408 356-3886, USA toll free: 1 866 356-3886 Skype: jerrydurand ------------------------------ Message-ID: <1734.205.215.255.19.1151596328.squirrel [at] webmail.peak.org> In-Reply-To: References:

Date: Thu, 29 Jun 2006 08:52:08 -0700 (PDT) Subject: Re: ETC Express tutorial From: "Bill Nelson" > There isn't one -- not in all my years of looking. You can disable the > blackout button and the grandmaster, but not the A/B or C/D faders. I didn't follow the earlier part of this thread, so maybe I am missing something. Both theatres where I work have Bijou boards. I work with people who have never run a light board before and have never had a problem with the operator trying to use the wrong faders. And the Bijou has the fader pairs closer together than on the Express. So, why is it a problem? Bill ------------------------------ Message-ID: Date: Thu, 29 Jun 2006 16:46:53 +0100 From: Clive Mitchell Subject: Re: ETC Express tutorial References:

In-Reply-To: In message , Stephen Litterst writes >I'd love for the software lockout to activate an error message if the >disabled button is pressed. Something like "Hey! You hit the wrong Go >button!" In big letters. Maybe an audible, so everyone knows. :-D How about a loud "DOOT!" noise like on game shows, and all the channels strobe out a few times? :) -- Clive Mitchell http://www.bigclive.com ------------------------------ Message-ID: Date: Thu, 29 Jun 2006 16:50:01 +0100 From: Clive Mitchell Subject: Re: GFCI outlets References:

In-Reply-To: In message , Allison Helms writes >As a side note. The guy who developed the GFCI did so because his >daughter was electrocuted by a hair dryer in the bathtub. I wonder if he realises how many lives have been saved as a result? People just don't realise how much of a close scrape they've had when they trip a GFI (RCD). Maybe they actually take it for granted now. They're in for a very nasty surprise if they get foolish on a non protected circuit. -- Clive Mitchell http://www.bigclive.com ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 29 Jun 2006 11:56:48 -0400 From: Stephen Litterst Subject: Re: ETC Express tutorial In-reply-to: Message-id: <44A3F840.90907 [at] ithaca.edu> References:

Bill Nelson wrote: > --------------------------------------------------- > Both theatres where I work have Bijou boards. I work with people who have > never run a light board before and have never had a problem with the > operator trying to use the wrong faders. And the Bijou has the fader pairs > closer together than on the Express. > > So, why is it a problem? To be blunt, some of us are dumbasses. And I'm speaking of myself. When I run an Express(ion) series console, I don't always pay complete attention to which button my hand is on. As a programmer, I try to keep my focus on the stage or the display screen, not the buttons. And those Go buttons feel identical. So, I have to find some way to make the wrong button feel "wrong." Gaff tape, soda cap, thumbtack. Something to make me realize I need to hit the *other* Go button. Steve L. -- Stephen Litterst Technical Supervisor Ithaca College, Theatre Arts 607.274.3947 slitterst [at] ithaca.edu ------------------------------ Subject: RE: ETC Express tutorial Date: Thu, 29 Jun 2006 11:57:16 -0400 Message-ID: <6E497ADB607656479C24E6D7BF6B505A042A9CC7 [at] exchange.rmwc.edu> In-Reply-To: From: "Paul Schreiner" > >I'd love for the software lockout to activate an error message if the > >disabled button is pressed. Something like "Hey! You hit=20 > the wrong Go=20 > >button!" In big letters. Maybe an audible, so everyone knows. :-D >=20 > How about a loud "DOOT!" noise like on game shows, and all=20 > the channels=20 > strobe out a few times? :) I'd think a gong would be more appropriate... ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 29 Jun 2006 12:05:44 -0400 Subject: Re: ETC Express tutorial From: John McKernon Message-ID: In-Reply-To: >> I'd love for the software lockout to activate an error message if the >> disabled button is pressed. Something like "Hey! You hit the wrong Go >> button!" In big letters. Maybe an audible, so everyone knows. :-D > > How about a loud "DOOT!" noise like on game shows, and all the channels > strobe out a few times? Even better, how about making the wrong button give you a shock or a pin prick if you touch it...;) - John ------------------------------ Message-ID: <1748.205.215.255.19.1151597594.squirrel [at] webmail.peak.org> In-Reply-To: References:

Date: Thu, 29 Jun 2006 09:13:14 -0700 (PDT) Subject: Re: ETC Express tutorial From: "Bill Nelson" > If you are running an Express 24/48, 48/96, or 72/144, and your OP is > only pushing go or using subs, then put the board in two scene mode > (setup-system settings-scene mode). A/B GO/HOLD/BACK are, I believe, > disabled leaving you with the C/D pair. Seams to work in EOL anyway. Will that work if you have more than half the boards capability of channels with assignments - for example, 65 channels on a 48/96 board? I have never programmed a show in one-scene, then switched to two-scene to run the show. It might be an interesting experiment, one of these days. Bill ------------------------------ Message-ID: <1752.205.215.255.19.1151597815.squirrel [at] webmail.peak.org> In-Reply-To: References:

Date: Thu, 29 Jun 2006 09:16:55 -0700 (PDT) Subject: Re: GFCI outlets - You're right, I'm wrong. From: "Bill Nelson" > A trick that worked for us...peel off the baseboard, make a hole that > will be covered by the baseboard (even better if you have a gap > between the wall and floor like we do), snake a ground wire from the > box out the hole. Daisy chain the ground around the room and find a > place to have it escape to the next room or a water pipe. Put > baseboard back. What baseboard? I am wonder if this allowed by the NEC. Bill ------------------------------ Message-ID: <1620.68.237.97.242.1151598083.squirrel [at] server2.hostingplex.com> In-Reply-To: References:

Date: Thu, 29 Jun 2006 12:21:23 -0400 (EDT) Subject: Re: ETC Express tutorial From: stagecraft [at] jeffsalzberg.com > Occasionally, instead of a box over the faders, I bring both faders to the > bottom of the channel and put a strip of tape across both channels, right > above the slider handles. It's a little less secure, but much more > aesthetically pleasing. But it doesn't preclude the electrician's hitting the CD GO button which, at the very least, will put your cues out of sequence. ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 29 Jun 2006 12:49:58 -0400 Subject: Re: Tutorial for ETC Express SOURCE From: Steve Shelley Message-ID: In-Reply-To: So, here in the land of dialup, can anyone provide me with a link to nancy's tutorial? Would be great to have for fresh folks at the festival. shelley On 6/29/06 12:37 AM, "Andrew Vance" wrote: > For info, archives & UNSUBSCRIBE, see > --------------------------------------------------- > > On 28 Jun, 2006, at 23:11 , Alf Sauve wrote: >> The one two-three years ago came from Nancy Moeur - AME, Syracuse >> Stage/SU Drama. Don't know if she's still on the list. I have the >> original version 1.0 it anyone wants. > > It was also still on the Gallery page at Noah's website last time I > was there. > > -- > Sincerely, > > Andrew Vance > Lighting Designer > atvanceld [at] gmail.com > > > -- Steve Shelley 843.588.6417 beach til 7/1 917.334.7625 cell but the service is wretched at this end of folly MrTemplate [at] Earthlink.net www.fieldtemplate.com ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 29 Jun 2006 12:53:13 -0400 From: Stephen Litterst Subject: Re: Tutorial for ETC Express SOURCE In-reply-to: Message-id: <44A40579.8040708 [at] ithaca.edu> References: Steve Shelley wrote: > --------------------------------------------------- > > So, here in the land of dialup, can anyone provide me with a link to nancy's > tutorial? Would be great to have for fresh folks at the festival. http://stagecraft.theprices.net/gallery/etcexpress/ETCExpressTutorial.pdf Steve L. -- Stephen Litterst Technical Supervisor Ithaca College, Theatre Arts 607.274.3947 slitterst [at] ithaca.edu ------------------------------ Message-ID: <44A40588.4030800 [at] dreampossible.ca> Date: Thu, 29 Jun 2006 12:53:28 -0400 From: Jim Hyslop Organization: Dreampossible Inc. Subject: Re: GFCI outlets - You're right, I'm wrong. References: In-Reply-To: Greg Persinger wrote: > I have a house built in the 40's and all of the original wiring is two > conductor and no ground. I HATE this but it is not possible to replace some > of the wiring without removing the plaster and lath on the walls so I have > been looking at replacing the two conductor outlets with GFCI outlets at the > advice of some of my licensed electrician friends. Hmmph. I wish my insurance company would have allowed that. They required me to completely rewire my house. Plenty of holes in my lath and plaster, and there are still one or two ceiling fixtures I'm trying to figure out how to do without ripping down the whole ceiling. -- Jim Hyslop ------------------------------ Message-ID: <44A40708.7090602 [at] dreampossible.ca> Date: Thu, 29 Jun 2006 12:59:52 -0400 From: Jim Hyslop Organization: Dreampossible Inc. Subject: Re: GFCI outlets References:

In-Reply-To: BC wrote: > These devices are often required, in some juristictions, for bedrooms. > Not sure if they require a ground wire back to SE. I've installed AFCI breakers for my bedrooms (while replacing the knob-and-tube - see my other post in this thread). The breaker installs into the panel exactly the same way as a GFCI breaker: both the hot and neutral conductors going out to the bedroom connect into the breaker itself, and the breaker provides a separate conductor to the neutral bar in the box. I haven't used AFCI-equipped outlets (if they exist) so I can't comment on how they are wired. -- Jim Hyslop ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 29 Jun 2006 13:33:20 -0400 Subject: Re: Tutorial for ETC Express SOURCE From: Steve Shelley Message-ID: In-Reply-To: Thanks. And thanks in advance to nancy for her efforts. Shelley On 6/29/06 12:53 PM, "Stephen Litterst" wrote: > For info, archives & UNSUBSCRIBE, see > --------------------------------------------------- > > Steve Shelley wrote: >> --------------------------------------------------- >> >> So, here in the land of dialup, can anyone provide me with a link to nancy's >> tutorial? Would be great to have for fresh folks at the festival. > > http://stagecraft.theprices.net/gallery/etcexpress/ETCExpressTutorial.pdf > > > Steve L. -- Steve Shelley 843.588.6417 beach til 7/1 917.334.7625 cell but the service is wretched at this end of folly MrTemplate [at] Earthlink.net www.fieldtemplate.com ------------------------------ From: "Jim at TheatreWireless.com" Subject: RE: GFCI outlets Date: Thu, 29 Jun 2006 13:41:09 -0400 Message-ID: <012401c69ba3$350173e0$7f9bfea9 [at] p3m866> In-Reply-To: Why a special breaker for bedrooms? What's unique about that area? I presume I'll have to sift through the jokes for the answer I'm looking for. :) Jim RC4 Wireless > I've installed AFCI breakers for my bedrooms ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 29 Jun 2006 13:42:42 -0400 Subject: Re: GFCI outlets From: Steve Larson Message-ID: In-Reply-To: Waterbed? Steve > From: "Jim at TheatreWireless.com" > Reply-To: "Stagecraft" > Date: Thu, 29 Jun 2006 13:41:09 -0400 > To: "Stagecraft" > Subject: Re: GFCI outlets > > For info, archives & UNSUBSCRIBE, see > --------------------------------------------------- > > Why a special breaker for bedrooms? What's unique about that area? > > I presume I'll have to sift through the jokes for the answer I'm looking > for. :) > > Jim > RC4 Wireless > > >> I've installed AFCI breakers for my bedrooms > ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 29 Jun 2006 13:03:46 -0500 Subject: Re: GFCI outlets - You're right, I'm wrong. From: Greg Persinger Message-ID: In-Reply-To: Hey Jim, I feel your pain. I am not in as bad of shape as you as I have the cloth and plastic (rubber) insulated romex wiring. No knob and tube to have to worry about. I think the fusebox was upgraded to a breaker box in the 80's before I bought the house. I can get to the ceiling fixtures via the attic and I have been able to update the bathroom, kitchen, and an office with fully grounded circuits but I am not able to get to all rooms of the house. Greg Persinger on 6/29/06 11:53 AM, Jim Hyslop at theatre [at] dreampossible.ca wrote: > > Hmmph. I wish my insurance company would have allowed that. They > required me to completely rewire my house. Plenty of holes in my lath > and plaster, and there are still one or two ceiling fixtures I'm trying > to figure out how to do without ripping down the whole ceiling. ------------------------------ From: "Jim at TheatreWireless.com" Subject: RE: GFCI outlets Date: Thu, 29 Jun 2006 14:07:14 -0400 Message-ID: <012801c69ba6$d9990b40$7f9bfea9 [at] p3m866> In-Reply-To: I've found these quotes on the 'net: "An AFCI or Arc Fault Circuit Interrupter as covered in Code Article 210-12 does not take affect until the next Code cycle in year 2002. The AFCI receptacle is designed to distinguish a potentially damaging arc in the cord of the plugged in device. When such an arc is distinguished the power to the receptacle is terminated to help extinguish the arc before a catastrophe results." And "Eventually they will be in more areas but the NEC selected to require them on bedroom circuits first because a CPSC study showed many home fire deaths were related to bedroom circuits. The AFCI (Arc Fault Circuit Interrupter) breaker, will shut off a circuit in a fraction of a second if arcing develops. The current inside of an arc is not always high enough to trip a regular breaker. You must have noticed a cut or worn piece of a cord or a loose connection in a junction box or receptacle arcing and burnt without tripping the regular breaker. As you can guess this is a major cause of fires in a dwelling. There is a difference between AFCIs and GFCIs. AFCIs are intended to reduce the likelihood of fire caused by electrical arcing faults; whereas, GFCIs are personnel protection intended to reduce the likelihood of electric shock hazard." Jim RC4 Wireless > -----Original Message----- > From: Stagecraft [mailto:stagecraft [at] theatrical.net] On Behalf > Of Steve Larson > Sent: June 29, 2006 1:43 PM > To: Stagecraft > Subject: Re: GFCI outlets > > For info, archives & UNSUBSCRIBE, see > > --------------------------------------------------- > > Waterbed? > > Steve > > > From: "Jim at TheatreWireless.com" > > Reply-To: "Stagecraft" > > Date: Thu, 29 Jun 2006 13:41:09 -0400 > > To: "Stagecraft" > > Subject: Re: GFCI outlets > > > > For info, archives & UNSUBSCRIBE, see > > > > --------------------------------------------------- > > > > Why a special breaker for bedrooms? What's unique about that area? > > > > I presume I'll have to sift through the jokes for the answer I'm > > looking for. :) > > > > Jim > > RC4 Wireless > > > > > >> I've installed AFCI breakers for my bedrooms > > > > > ------------------------------ In-Reply-To: References:

Message-Id: From: Phil Johnson Subject: Re: ETC Express tutorial Date: Thu, 29 Jun 2006 13:39:33 -0500 We have found on our boards that a glow tape outline around the specific button serves as a gentle reminder of which one to push. Novice board ops still however, make this mistake. I was trying to think of a macro we could design to automatically assign the cue to the ab button regardless of which go was pressed. It can get pretty complicated. The best way to prevent mistakes and to instill fear in the boardops mind is to cut off the offending hand an mount it to the wall near the board with the infraction listed on a plaque. It only takes on mistake to cure the rest. Philip Johnson Designer/Technical Director Texas A & M -Corpus Christi ------------------------------ Message-ID: Date: Thu, 29 Jun 2006 19:54:07 +0100 From: Clive Mitchell Subject: Re: GFCI outlets - You're right, I'm wrong. References:

In-Reply-To: In message , Bill Nelson writes >What baseboard? Skirting board? At least it was just a ground wire behind the board. When I rewired my parents old house on the Isle of Man, I found it was wired in two core festoon type flex with an earth wire dropping from each socket into the underfloor area where it was twisted around a piece of fence wire. Nice earthing system. -- Clive Mitchell http://www.bigclive.com ------------------------------ Message-ID: Date: Thu, 29 Jun 2006 19:55:15 +0100 From: Clive Mitchell Subject: Re: GFCI outlets - You're right, I'm wrong. References:

In-Reply-To: In message , Jim Hyslop writes >Hmmph. I wish my insurance company would have allowed that. They >required me to completely rewire my house. Plenty of holes in my lath >and plaster, and there are still one or two ceiling fixtures I'm trying >to figure out how to do without ripping down the whole ceiling. Can you drag the wires through? What about a false ceiling with LED colour changing panels? :) -- Clive Mitchell http://www.bigclive.com ------------------------------ Message-ID: Date: Thu, 29 Jun 2006 19:59:21 +0100 From: Clive Mitchell Subject: Re: GFCI outlets References:

In-Reply-To: In message , Jim at TheatreWireless.com writes >Why a special breaker for bedrooms? What's unique about that area? It's the electro torture bench. Sometimes secretions get into the control box and short it out. -- Danny Domination. Grand master of the electrified spank-o-tron. ------------------------------ Message-ID: <44A43902.2030609 [at] dreampossible.ca> Date: Thu, 29 Jun 2006 16:33:06 -0400 From: Jim Hyslop Organization: Dreampossible Inc. Subject: Re: GFCI outlets - You're right, I'm wrong. References:

In-Reply-To: Clive Mitchell wrote: > In message , Jim Hyslop > writes > >> there are still one or two ceiling fixtures I'm >> trying to figure out how to do without ripping down the whole ceiling. > > > Can you drag the wires through? My main concern is that the plaster is rather old. I've found that when I open a small hole in a wall, the hole very quickly enlarges to several feet across. If I have to do anything that will compromise the integrity of the ceiling, I would rather pull down the whole ceiling and replace it with drywall, than risk having it collapse unexpectedly. > What about a false ceiling with LED > colour changing panels? :) Oooh, now there's a thought. Any idea where I'd pick up one of those? -- Jim Hyslop ------------------------------ Message-Id: <3.0.6.32.20060629135839.00c0d6b0 [at] pop.west.cox.net> Date: Thu, 29 Jun 2006 13:58:39 From: CB Subject: Re: a rant about magazine editors (was: Leico light? ) >I think it's just down to the non technical mind of the person editing >the article. It must just appear like boring gibberish to them. I give then the same instructions I give for high-voltage wiring. If you don't know what it is, don't touch it. If you think you know what it is, don't touch it till you find out. If you're absolutely sure that you know what it is, put the tools down and go away. Chris "Chris" Babbie Location Sound MON AZ Delete key training and post trimming done by appointment. Rates negotiable, will trade for typing lessons/ADD treatment... ------------------------------ From: rwhitco [at] comcast.net (Randy Whitcomb) Subject: Re: GFCI outlets - You're right, I'm wrong. Date: Thu, 29 Jun 2006 20:53:27 +0000 Message-Id: <062920062053.14936.44A43DC70003709B00003A582207300793010C9B0708999D [at] comcast.net> -------------- Original message ---------------------- From: Jim Hyslop > My main concern is that the plaster is rather old. I've found that when > I open a small hole in a wall, the hole very quickly enlarges to several > feet across. If I have to do anything that will compromise the integrity > of the ceiling, I would rather pull down the whole ceiling and replace > it with drywall, than risk having it collapse unexpectedly. Try using plaster washers to reinforce the area around where you want to work or even the entire ceiling. I've used them before and they work pretty well. McFeeleys and others carry them. Randy Whitcomb ------------------------------ Message-Id: <7.0.1.0.2.20060629140521.02311a28 [at] earthlink.net> Date: Thu, 29 Jun 2006 14:06:13 -0700 From: Theatre Safety Programs Subject: Boy Dies After Disney Roller Coaster Ride Boy Dies After Disney Roller Coaster Ride By TRAVIS REED (Associated Press Writer) From Associated Press June 29, 2006 3:16 PM EDT LAKE BUENA VISTA, Fla. - A 12-year-old boy died after riding a roller coaster Thursday at the Disney MGM theme park, the Orange County sheriff's office said. The boy died after he was brought by ambulance to a hospital at about 11:30 a.m., a Disney statement said. The cause of death was not immediately known, Sheriff's spokesman Jim Solomons said. Park officials closed the Rock 'n' Roller Coaster but said a preliminary investigation showed the ride was operating normally. A Disney Web site description of the ride says: "Zoom from 0-60 mph with the force of a supersonic F-14, take in high-speed loops and turns synchronized to a specially recorded Aerosmith soundtrack." Two other people have died after going on another Disney ride, Epcot's "Mission: Space." The space simulator spins riders in a centrifuge that subjects them to twice the normal force of gravity. Daudi Bamuwamye, 4, of Sellersville, Pa., died June 13, 2005. An autopsy determined he died of an irregular heartbeat linked to an abnormal thickening of the heart muscle that can cause sudden death. In April, a 49-year-old woman from Germany became ill and died after taking the ride. A medical examiner's report said she died from bleeding of the brain and had severe high blood pressure. The ride has signs warning people with heart, back and neck problems not to ride. Epcot now offers a tamer version of the ride that does not include centrifugal force. Disney MGM is among the Walt Disney Co.'s four parks in Florida. Jerry Gorrell ------------------------------ Message-ID: <44A44172.8000607 [at] fuse.net> Date: Thu, 29 Jun 2006 17:09:06 -0400 From: Stuart Wheaton Reply-To: sdwheaton [at] fuse.net Subject: Re: GFCI outlets - You're right, I'm wrong. References:

Message-Id: From: Samuel Jones Subject: Inverted Chain Motors Date: Thu, 29 Jun 2006 14:21:51 -0700 After much consultation with Joe Golden and Andy Wise I have developed some macros for chain motors and a question has arisen about the meaning of "inverted." It seems that in industries _other_ than the entertainment industry when the motor is down and attached to the truss it is considered inverted. In the entertainment industry it seems that when the motor is up it is considered inverted, because with temporary installs it is only rarely that the motor is carried up to the hanging point. I have just started using motors in my facility, but the intuitive terminology would be that the motor is inverted when it is down and not when it is up. I don't want to make a tool that is contrary to our industries convention. So, which is it motor down is inverted or motor up is inverted? If there is no consensus, I get to make the rules. I'll be sending this to the VW Theater list also. TIA Sam Samuel L. Jones Developer of AutoPlotVW and AutoPlot Tools for SpotLight sjones [at] arts.ucla.edu (310) 207-0392 (home) (310) 825-5823 (office) (310) 993-4172 (cell) ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 29 Jun 2006 17:33:51 -0400 Subject: Re: Inverted Chain Motors From: Bill Sapsis Message-ID: In-Reply-To: Sam. First off, it is not a motor. It is a hoist. The motor is that little electrical thingamabob inside that makes stuff go. The entire machine is considered a hoist. (You're welcome, Wally) We consider a hoist "inverted" when it is down and it's chain is up. Please remember that these are industrial machines and their "normal" positioning would be for the hoist to be hanging from the overhead steel and the chain running up and down. As you mentioned, we don't do that because it is a real big bummer to haul a hoist up 85' to the steel and then hang it. The chain is a much lighter element so you want to pull that up. Given the nature of the CM LoadStar Hoist it no longer matters what orientation it is being used in, with the possible exception of how the chain bag is rigged. However, whenever I buy hoists from CM I always tell them what the orientation is going to be. And when someone buys a hoist (or 2 or 6 or 50...that's a hint) from me we always ask what the orientation will be. So, for our industry when the hoist is hanging at the ground and it's chain is running up to the steel, that's an inverted position. Zat help? Bill S. ETCP Certified Rigger - Theatre www.sapsis-rigging.com 800.727.7471 267.278.4561 mobile Join the Long Reach Long Riders on their 3rd annual cross country charity motorcycle ride. On 6/29/06 5:21 PM, "Samuel Jones" wrote: > For info, archives & UNSUBSCRIBE, see > --------------------------------------------------- > > After much consultation with Joe Golden and Andy Wise I have > developed some macros for chain motors and a question has arisen > about the meaning of "inverted." It seems that in industries _other_ > than the entertainment industry when the motor is down and attached > to the truss it is considered inverted. In the entertainment > industry it seems that when the motor is up it is considered > inverted, because with temporary installs it is only rarely that the > motor is carried up to the hanging point. I have just started using > motors in my facility, but the intuitive terminology would be that > the motor is inverted when it is down and not when it is up. I don't > want to make a tool that is contrary to our industries convention. > So, which is it motor down is inverted or motor up is inverted? If > there is no consensus, I get to make the rules. I'll be sending this > to the VW Theater list also. > > TIA > Sam > > > Samuel L. Jones > Developer of AutoPlotVW and AutoPlot Tools for SpotLight > sjones [at] arts.ucla.edu > (310) 207-0392 (home) > (310) 825-5823 (office) > (310) 993-4172 (cell) > ------------------------------ Message-ID: Date: Thu, 29 Jun 2006 17:48:22 -0400 From: "Ken Romaine" Subject: Re: GFCI outlets In-Reply-To: References:

Ahh, yes. Thank you, Danny, for another reminder that drinking and reading can be hazardous to your laptop. -- Ken Romaine Business Development Manager Barco Media & Entertainment The opinions expressed here are mine - all mine - no matter how much I want to impose them on the rest of the world. On 6/29/06, Clive Mitchell wrote: > Jim at TheatreWireless.com writes > >Why a special breaker for bedrooms? What's unique about that area? > > It's the electro torture bench. Sometimes secretions get into the > control box and short it out. > > -- > Danny Domination. > Grand master of the electrified spank-o-tron. > ------------------------------ Message-Id: <200606292207.k5TM70bC008776 [at] omr2.networksolutionsemail.com> From: "Steve Jones" Subject: Fogger / hazer feedback sought... Date: Thu, 29 Jun 2006 17:06:50 -0500 Organization: Plaza Theatre Share your thoughts on a good fogger and hazer for a 1,000 proscenium theatre, stage depth 24' x 40' wide. Looking at the LeMaitre G300 (as it does both fog or haze) Also looking at the LeMaitre Stage Fogger for fog and the Radiance for Haze. Together, these two are about same cost as the G300, or a little less. Thoughts? Thanks! Steve ************************************* Steve Jones, Director Plaza Theatre 115 E. Main Street Glasgow, KY 42141 Voice: (270) 361-2101 Fax: (270) 834-8147 http://www.glasgowplazatheatre.org ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 29 Jun 2006 15:11:20 -0700 From: "Mt. Angel Performing Arts Center" Subject: Re: GFCI outlets In-reply-to: Message-id: <44A45008.9000902 [at] mtangelperformingarts.com> References:

Clive Mitchell wrote: > For info, archives & UNSUBSCRIBE, see > --------------------------------------------------- > > In message , Jim at TheatreWireless.com > writes >> Why a special breaker for bedrooms? What's unique about that area? > > It's the electro torture bench. Sometimes secretions get into the > control box and short it out. > We mostly eliminated that problem by going wireless with ours. Occasionally there is interaction between the RF controls and the violet wand. Makes for a much more interesting evening's entertainment. Carla ------------------------------ Message-ID: <87e6786e0606291513q4fdf6868p5d6daee09d43eb3b [at] mail.gmail.com> Date: Thu, 29 Jun 2006 17:13:27 -0500 From: "John Penisten" Subject: Re: ETC Express tutorial In-Reply-To: References:

It shouldn't affect the patch. You will have less direct channel control if you try to program this way rather than "wide mode", but if you just set it up this way for show playback then nothing will happen when the wrong go is pushed. Perhaps David Fox or one of the other ETC lurkers can chime in if I am missing something. Best, John On 6/29/06, Bill Nelson wrote: > For info, archives & UNSUBSCRIBE, see > --------------------------------------------------- > > > If you are running an Express 24/48, 48/96, or 72/144, and your OP is > > only pushing go or using subs, then put the board in two scene mode > > (setup-system settings-scene mode). A/B GO/HOLD/BACK are, I believe, > > disabled leaving you with the C/D pair. Seams to work in EOL anyway. > > Will that work if you have more than half the boards capability of > channels with assignments - for example, 65 channels on a 48/96 board? > > I have never programmed a show in one-scene, then switched to two-scene to > run the show. It might be an interesting experiment, one of these days. > > Bill > > ------------------------------ Message-ID: Date: Thu, 29 Jun 2006 23:39:57 +0100 From: Clive Mitchell Subject: Re: GFCI outlets - You're right, I'm wrong. References:

In-Reply-To: In message , Jim Hyslop writes >> What about a false ceiling with LED >> colour changing panels? :) >Oooh, now there's a thought. Any idea where I'd pick up one of those? Probably cheapest to make it yourself. Perhaps you could use one of those fabulous little controllers on my website. ;) http://www.emanator.demon.co.uk/bigclive/rgbcont.htm Oh yes, I have no shame.... -- Clive Mitchell http://www.bigclive.com ------------------------------ Message-ID: Date: Thu, 29 Jun 2006 23:51:19 +0100 From: Clive Mitchell Subject: Re: Boy Dies After Disney Roller Coaster Ride References: In-Reply-To: In message , Theatre Safety Programs writes >The boy died after he was brought by ambulance to a hospital at about >11:30 a.m., a Disney statement said. The cause of death was not >immediately known, Sheriff's spokesman Jim Solomons said. > >Park officials closed the Rock 'n' Roller Coaster but said a >preliminary investigation showed the ride was operating normally. The Rock 'n' Roller coaster has a high adrenaline factor. It really pumps up your heart rate with the expectation of the launch. The one at Disney Studio's in Paris is similar but so much better. You actually fly through a huge (real) 3D lighting truss smothered in wigglies and other optical delights. I had the dubious pleasure of "sand-bagging" on the ride during it's initial testing. (You take some test load sand bags out and ride it round and round and round and BLEUUUURGH!...) Then I had to go and try fitting lighting on another ride whilst in a very nauseous state. :( Needless to say that while riding on the coaster with one of the Dutch sparks who had been installing the lights in the coaster, all we did during the rides was talk about the lighting. :) -- Clive Mitchell http://www.bigclive.com ------------------------------ Message-ID: <4$b7tgWjvFpEFwWk [at] ntlworld.com> Date: Fri, 30 Jun 2006 00:01:55 +0100 From: Clive Mitchell Subject: Re: GFCI outlets References:

In-Reply-To: In message , Mt. Angel Performing Arts Center writes >We mostly eliminated that problem by going wireless with ours. >Occasionally there is interaction between the RF controls and the >violet wand. The very fact you know what a violet wand is suggests you may be a sinner. For the uninitiated look up violet wand or violet ray. Fascinating and indeed tingly little devices. -- Clive Mitchell http://www.bigclive.com ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 29 Jun 2006 16:12:18 -0700 From: Jerry Durand Subject: Re: GFCI outlets - You're right, I'm wrong. In-reply-to: Message-id: References:

On Jun 29, 2006, at 3:39 PM, Clive Mitchell wrote: > Probably cheapest to make it yourself. Perhaps you could use one > of those fabulous little controllers on my website. ;) > Oh yes, I have no shame.... Ok ok, I should show I have no shame also and mention our 4-channel high current DMX to DC dimmers (fit inside a single gang electrical box). www.interstellar.com :) ------------------------------ Message-ID: <44A47307.6020005 [at] cybercom.net> Date: Thu, 29 Jun 2006 20:40:39 -0400 From: Dale Farmer Organization: I'm working on that.... Subject: Re: GFCI outlets - You're right, I'm wrong. References:

In-Reply-To: Bill Nelson wrote: > For info, archives & UNSUBSCRIBE, see > --------------------------------------------------- > >> A trick that worked for us...peel off the baseboard, make a hole that >> will be covered by the baseboard (even better if you have a gap >> between the wall and floor like we do), snake a ground wire from the >> box out the hole. Daisy chain the ground around the room and find a >> place to have it escape to the next room or a water pipe. Put >> baseboard back. > > What baseboard? > > I am wonder if this allowed by the NEC. > > Bill > > > > Someone makes flat wires for this sort of application. a 12 AWG equivalent conductor is about 3/4 of an inch wide in the stuff. You just tape the stuff to the wall or floor, then tape a protective layer of sheet metal over it for some applications ( LIke under carpeting). Then using plaster/joint compound/paint you hide it. You may bump into the NEC rule about running all conductors together for a circuit, check with your local inspectors. --Dale ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 29 Jun 2006 20:34:17 -0400 From: BC Subject: Re: ETC Express tutorial Reply-to: BC Message-id: <004101c69bdc$ed2652e0$6401a8c0 [at] SBFF> References: Single scene mode enables the A/B crossfader as a cue stack crossfader. This is the only way to enable the A/B to run cues on any of the 2 scene Express consoles (it's possible the 24/48 is a bit different as it has no separate subs, can't remember). Thus if you swap back to two scene mode, the A/B faders become 2 scene crossfaders and pushing Go does nothing. Ditto Hold, Clear and Back. Pressing Rate makes the green LED on the button flash, but otherwise has no effect. You have to hit Rate, then the keypad Clear button to stop the flashing. Accidentally pressing the A/B Go in 2 scene mode is annoying, as the SM - and everyone else, is presumably waiting for the Cue that isn't happening. So in that sense it does have an effect. Usually along the lines of the SM saying "What happened to Q xx". Usually answered with a "It's a subtle change" Configuring/recording cues, subs and/or groups in 1 scene mode, then going back to 2 scene has no affect on any of the looks. When I run a non-2 scene Express, I will move the C/D faders to the bottom and put a big piece of 1" white gaff tape over the faders and Go button. On my Express 48, I have a big "GO" label below the C/D go button. I still miss it on occasion and hit A/B go, then wonder why nothing is happening. As a side note: Something I only recently discovered after 10 years of running Express consoles, learned while reading thru the Insight and the Emphasis manuals. It's possible to use the S2 - Update key on a submaster. This is not documented (AFAIK) in the Express manual. Assuming you want to add/change levels on a sub that's reading at full. Ont he keypad, grab those levels needing adjustment, adjust to new levels, press S2, then the Sub bump button. The channels adjusted now go from Red (captured) to the dull Sub yellow. The sub does not need to be recycled Off then On for the update to take. Note that I just tried this in EOL and it works fine. Steve Bailey Brooklyn College > On 6/29/06, Bill Nelson wrote: >> For info, archives & UNSUBSCRIBE, see > >> --------------------------------------------------- >> Will that work if you have more than half the boards capability of >> channels with assignments - for example, 65 channels on a 48/96 board? >> >> I have never programmed a show in one-scene, then switched to > two-scene to >> run the show. It might be an interesting experiment, one of these > days. >> >> Bill >> >> > ------------------------------ Message-ID: <000801c69bde$3b882160$6401a8c0 [at] amd2200> From: "Idaho Scenic & Rigging" References:

Subject: Festoon Lighting Date: Thu, 29 Jun 2006 18:43:39 -0600 Hey Clive. I'm coming up on a tour with James Taylor. One of the elements the lighting designer came up was "festoon lighting". I saw first drawings Tuesday. I, being a carpenter and rigger, do not know the term festoon lighting. I imagine it being a "zip" cord 16-18 gauge with a parallel terminal every 12 or 18 or 24 inches. kind of like those strings of cheap chili pepper lights found in Arizona single wide trailer parks. or above a used car lot,...or I guess the standard strand of Christmas lights. Is there an industrial version that I can expect for this show? Bryan Leitch, the designer, did not spec wattage or voltage. Just rather curious as it doesn't necessarily affect me, just want to know.. Rob't Idaho Scenic and Rigging. ----- Original Message ----- From: "Clive Mitchell" > > When I rewired my parents old house on the Isle of Man, I found it was > wired in two core festoon type flex with an earth wire dropping from > each socket into the underfloor area where it was twisted around a piece > of fence wire. Nice earthing system. > > -- > Clive Mitchell > http://www.bigclive.com ------------------------------ Message-ID: Date: Fri, 30 Jun 2006 02:59:30 +0100 From: Clive Mitchell Subject: Re: GFCI outlets - You're right, I'm wrong. References:

In-Reply-To: In message , Jerry Durand writes >> Probably cheapest to make it yourself. Perhaps you could use one >>of those fabulous little controllers on my website. ;) >> Oh yes, I have no shame.... > >Ok ok, I should show I have no shame also and mention our 4-channel >high current DMX to DC dimmers (fit inside a single gang electrical >box). > >www.interstellar.com Yes but MINE'S fully autonomous and doesn't require a lighting desk or DMX replay unit (that could crash or get meddled with). Just choose the program and adjust the option to suit then it automatically saves the setting to flash memory so it always powers up in your chosen program. Add the 16 million colour pallet (I've got names for them all) and the 8 million bit randomiser and it's just a sweet little toy. (And so cost effective too.) ;) Go on then... Beat that. :) -- Clive Mitchell http://www.bigclive.com ------------------------------ Message-ID: Date: Fri, 30 Jun 2006 02:54:36 +0100 From: Clive Mitchell Subject: Re: Festoon Lighting References:

In-Reply-To: In message , Idaho Scenic & Rigging writes >Hey Clive. >I'm coming up on a tour with James Taylor. One of the elements the >lighting designer came up was "festoon lighting". I saw first drawings >Tuesday. I, being a carpenter and rigger, do not know the term festoon >lighting. I imagine it being a "zip" cord 16-18 gauge with a parallel >terminal every 12 or 18 or 24 inches. kind of like those strings of >cheap chili pepper lights found in Arizona single wide trailer parks. >or above a used car lot,...or I guess the standard strand of Christmas >lights. > >Is there an industrial version that I can expect for this show? Bryan >Leitch, the designer, did not spec wattage or voltage. Just rather >curious as it doesn't necessarily affect me, just want to know.. Festoon lighting is commonly used on building sites to provide illumination along a route. It either comes with the caps pre-punched on or with insulation displacement caps that you screw on wherever you want. It's also used for seaside lighting or Christmas lighting. I guess in America you've also got the option of the parallel Christmas lighting strings that take the little olive shaped lamps. -- Clive Mitchell http://www.bigclive.com ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 29 Jun 2006 19:23:55 -0700 From: Jerry Durand Subject: Re: GFCI outlets - You're right, I'm wrong. In-reply-to: Message-id: References:

On Jun 29, 2006, at 6:59 PM, Clive Mitchell wrote: > Go on then... Beat that. :) Made in USA by part Native American worker! ------------------------------ Message-ID: Date: Fri, 30 Jun 2006 03:34:40 +0100 From: Clive Mitchell Subject: Re: GFCI outlets - You're right, I'm wrong. References:

In-Reply-To: In message , Jerry Durand writes >> Go on then... Beat that. :) > >Made in USA by part Native American worker! Made in Scotland. Hmm, which looks better... -- Clive Mitchell http://www.bigclive.com ------------------------------ Message-ID: <000701c69bee$4453c460$0600000a [at] BRUTUS> From: "Jon Ares" References: