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X-Real-To: stagecraftlist [at] theatrical.net Received: by prxy.net (CommuniGate Pro PIPE 4.2.10) with PIPE id 42366938; Mon, 12 Feb 2007 17:24:34 -0800 X-Spam-Checker-Version: SpamAssassin 3.1.7 (2006-10-05) on localhost X-Spam-Status: No, score=1.8 required=5.0 tests=AWL,NO_RECEIVED,NO_RELAYS, PRXY_USER_BODY_AMBIEN,PRXY_USER_BODY_CIALIS,PRXY_USER_BODY_LEVITRA, PRXY_USER_BODY_VALIUM,SUBJ_HAS_UNIQ_ID autolearn=no version=3.1.7 X-Spam-Level: * X-ListServer: CommuniGate Pro LIST 4.2.10 List-Unsubscribe: List-ID: List-Archive: Message-ID: From: "Stagecraft" Sender: "Stagecraft" To: "Stagecraft" Precedence: list Subject: Stagecraft Digest #1138 Date: Mon, 12 Feb 2007 17:23:42 -0800 MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="ISO-8859-1" Content-Disposition: inline X-TFF-CGPSA-Version: 1.4 X-prxy-Spam-Filter: Scanned For info, archives & UNSUBSCRIBE, see --------------------------------------------------- Stagecraft Digest, Issue #1138 1. Re: Auto Cad delima by "Bill Conner" 2. Re: Banning Incandescent Light bulbs. by "Fred Schoening, Jr." 3. Re: Flat earth by "paul.guncheon [at] hawaiiantel.net" 4. Cell phones on a call & in your shop [nee Smokers] by Barney Simon 5. Re: Cell phones on a call & in your shop [nee Smokers] by Stephen Rees 6. Re: Cell phones on a call & in your shop [nee Smokers] by "Fred Schoening, Jr." 7. Re: ETC Eos by "Sam Fisher" 8. Re: Vexing Vectorworks (designers) by "Sam Fisher" 9. Re: Audio Possibilities by "Mike Katz" 10. Best Practice: Connecting widely dispersed audio systems by "dale cyr" 11. Welder Suggestions by SS 12. Re: Cell phones on a call & in your shop by Rigger 13. Re: Welder Suggestions by Michael Heinicke 14. Re: inside-out electrical tape by "Nathan Kahn" 15. Re: Welder Suggestions by Rigger 16. Re: inside-out electrical tape by "Nathan Kahn" 17. Re: keeping track of it all by Ron Cargile 18. Re: inside-out electrical tape by "Don Taco" 19. Audio Possibilities by CB 20. Re: Banning Incandescent Light bulbs. by Ron Cargile 21. Re: inside-out electrical tape by "ladesigners [at] juno.com" 22. Audio Possibilities by CB 23. big class by Judy 24. Re: big class by "Paul Schreiner" 25. Re: big class by Steve Shelley 26. Re: big class by "Bill Nelson" 27. Re: inside-out electrical tape by "Nathan Kahn" 28. Re: big class by Stephen Litterst 29. Re: big class by "Bill Nelson" 30. Re: Welder Suggestions by Bill Potter 31. Re: big class by "Bill Nelson" 32. Re: big class by "Bill Nelson" 33. Re: Banning Incandescent Light bulbs. by Rigger 34. Re: Stop that light! No, fade it up somewhere else! by "Bill Nelson" 35. Re: Banning Incandescent Light bulbs. by "Bill Nelson" 36. Re: Stop that light! No, fade it up somewhere else! by "Bill Nelson" 37. Re: big class by MissWisc [at] aol.com 38. Re: Audio Possibilities by Bill Peeler 39. Re: Banning Incandescent Light bulbs. by Charlie Richmond 40. Re: big class by Charlie Richmond 41. Re: Audio Possibilities by Charlie Richmond 42. Re: 360Q maintenance by "Matt Gard" 43. Re: 360Q maintenance by "David B. Nelson" 44. Re: Welder Suggestions by Stuart Wheaton 45. Re: Stop that light! No, fade it up somewhere else! by Chip Wood 46. Re: Lumber by "Will Hill" 47. Re: Welder Suggestions by 48. Re: Welder Suggestions by Josh Ratty 49. Re: Lumber by Josh Ratty 50. Re: Lumber by Charlie Richmond 51. Re: Lumber by 52. Re: Welder Suggestions by 53. Re: Lumber by Josh Ratty 54. Re: Welder Suggestions by Stuart Wheaton 55. Re: Lumber by Stuart Wheaton 56. Re: Lumber by 57. Re: Lumber by Charlie Richmond 58. Re: Lumber by Charlie Richmond 59. Re: Welder Suggestions by 60. Re: Lumber by 61. Re: Lumber by 62. Smoking rc car by propguy1 [at] att.net 63. Re: Lumber by Charlie Richmond 64. Cirque's Delirium by MissWisc [at] aol.com 65. Re: Cirque's Delirium by Andrew Vance 66. Re: Smoking rc car by "Michael Diederich" 67. Re: Lumber by "Paul Schreiner" 68. Re: Smoking rc car by "Paul Schreiner" 69. Re: Welder Suggestions by Clive Mitchell 70. Re: Welder Suggestions by "Paul Schreiner" *** Please update the subject line of your reply to use the subject *** line of the message you are replying to! Please only reply to *** one message subject in each reply. ---------------------------------------------------------------------- Message-ID: <004801c74e9a$129c1ee0$6a01a8c0 [at] BCA1> Reply-To: "Bill Conner" From: "Bill Conner" Subject: re: Auto Cad delima Date: Mon, 12 Feb 2007 05:36:44 -0600 I believe the architect is using objects, probably in Architectural Desktop version of AutoCAD. I suspect that somehow you have downloaded and installed "object enablers" so it displays and prints fine for you but the printing service does not. The downloads are free but they are for AutoDESK products and if your printer is using some third party software, I don't know. I avoid nearly all printing problems by sending either pdf's or, increasingly, dwf's - AutoCAD's own pdf like format. It's easier for me and the printer and practically failure proof. Gone are pen tables, plotter configurations, and even page setup. Good luck. Bill Conner ASTC, ETCP CR-T ------------------------------ Message-ID: <31067220.1171287966554.JavaMail.root [at] mswamui-chipeau.atl.sa.earthlink.net> Date: Mon, 12 Feb 2007 07:46:06 -0600 (GMT-06:00) From: "Fred Schoening, Jr." Reply-To: "Fred Schoening, Jr." Subject: Re: Banning Incandescent Light bulbs. I reckon y'ought to watch where yer slingin' that there brush, pardner... "Big Fred" Schoening Technical Director, Dallas Theater Center Dallas, Texas, USA -----Original Message----- > >Couldn't be Texas. The only pi that Texans have heard about is Mother's Apple Pi. > >Bill > ------------------------------ Message-ID: <32563420.1171289004986.JavaMail.? [at] fh033.dia.cp.net> Date: Mon, 12 Feb 2007 14:03:24 +0000 (UTC) From: "paul.guncheon [at] hawaiiantel.net" Reply-To: "paul.guncheon [at] hawaiiantel.net" Subject: Re: Flat earth <> Are you saying... erm... (be careful here... deep breaths...), it's not? Must go lie down, Paul ------------------------------ Message-ID: <45D07B5A.3080104 [at] JosephCHansen.com> Date: Mon, 12 Feb 2007 09:36:10 -0500 From: Barney Simon Subject: Cell phones on a call & in your shop [nee Smokers] References: In-Reply-To: Okay,I will not get into the smoker thing, BUT what are people's policies on cell phones? The attitude I get is that taking calls is almost a right. The logic seems to be fed back to me that the no personal calls rule is because I do not want them using my phone electrons. [Not to sound TOO old, but] these days it seems that everyone from checkout clerks at the supermarket to bus drivers feel it is okay to chat away on their cell phones while working. -- Barney Simon JC Hansen Co., Inc Drapes, Drops, and Dance Floors Sales, Rental, and Custom Sewing 629 Grove Street, Lot #26 Jersey City NJ 07310 201-222-1677 F:201-222-1699 JCHansen.com 866-988-8055 ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 12 Feb 2007 09:51:26 -0500 Subject: Re: Cell phones on a call & in your shop [nee Smokers] From: Stephen Rees Message-ID: In-Reply-To: Well, this is an educational situation so YMMV but we demand that CP be turned off in the classroom. At work calls, they can only be used at breaks. Most of our crew students are not "professionals" in the true sense of the word. Most would prefer not to be there at all. They sneak off sometimes but are acceptable with in reason for the most part. We need speak sternly only on occasion. Steve Rees On 2/12/07 9:36 AM, "Barney Simon" wrote: > For info, archives & UNSUBSCRIBE, see > --------------------------------------------------- > > Okay,I will not get into the smoker thing, BUT what are people's > policies on cell phones? The attitude I get is that taking calls is > almost a right. The logic seems to be fed back to me that the no > personal calls rule is because I do not want them using my phone electrons. > > [Not to sound TOO old, but] these days it seems that everyone from > checkout clerks at the supermarket to bus drivers feel it is okay to > chat away on their cell phones while working. ------------------------------ Message-ID: <12958509.1171292125130.JavaMail.root [at] mswamui-blood.atl.sa.earthlink.net> Date: Mon, 12 Feb 2007 08:55:25 -0600 (GMT-06:00) From: "Fred Schoening, Jr." Reply-To: "Fred Schoening, Jr." Subject: Re: Cell phones on a call & in your shop [nee Smokers] My policy is basically no calls while you're on the floor. That's what break time is for. It's distracting and not only does it slow down your work drastically, it can be dangerous. That said, I tend to overlook it more often than not because my carpenters are pretty responsible people and don't abuse the privilege. They don't initiate calls while they're on the floor and, if they receive a call, they'll only take it if it's about extra work or important family stuff. They also keep it short. So far it hasn't been a problem. "Big Fred" Schoening Technical Director, Dallas Theater Center Dallas, Texas, USA -----Original Message----- >Okay,I will not get into the smoker thing, BUT what are people's >policies on cell phones? >-- >Barney Simon ------------------------------ From: "Sam Fisher" References: Subject: RE: ETC Eos Date: Mon, 12 Feb 2007 10:25:51 -0500 Organization: Fisher Theatrical Message-ID: <000d01c74eba$149fd090$0300a8c0 [at] ftoffice.local> In-Reply-To: Sales pitch aside, the EOS is a great Console. The design team really did their homework with this one. If anyone in the Baltimore / Washington area is interested in seeing them, we will have an EOS, CONGO, and CONGO Jr. alone with a factory rep in our shop this coming Thursday, February 15th. Advanced Console training is available in the morning and the consoles will be available for demos all day. Sam Fisher General Manager / VP Fisher Theatrical 410-487-0100 office 410-487-0090 fax www.FisherTheatrical.com All information contained in this email, including any attachments, is to be treated as Confidential -----Original Message----- From: Stagecraft [mailto:stagecraft [at] theatrical.net] On Behalf Of William McLachlan Sent: Sunday, February 11, 2007 3:33 PM To: Stagecraft Subject: Re: ETC Eos For info, archives & UNSUBSCRIBE, see --------------------------------------------------- Hi Roy, It appears as I usually do I got busy and missed this post. Thank you for the compliment, that's a very nice thing to say. As for writing I've always enjoyed it but I have no idea when I would find the time. Seems however when the story is juicy or strange enough, the time seems to find *me*. As for the Eos, I'm curious if anyone else on the list is actually using it. I'm told a handfull of the units are out there and would love to hear the opinions of others. Cheers, Willy On Jan 29, 2007, at 5:13 PM, Roy Harline wrote: > For info, archives & UNSUBSCRIBE, see stagecraft.theprices.net/> > --------------------------------------------------- > > Willy, > I tried to send this last week while traveling West Texas, but my > exchange server only emits HTML so I couldn't send it. > Today's message made me think again about the fun I had reading your > accounts of the travels and trials with Nine inch Nails tour oh so NOT > so many years back... > You truly have a gift for communicating, and writing. > You really should write a book about your experiences. I would read > it!! > > Roy Harline > Sales and Design > Texas Scenic Company > 210-684-0091 > > > ------------------------------ From: "Sam Fisher" References: Subject: RE: Vexing Vectorworks (designers) Date: Mon, 12 Feb 2007 10:31:31 -0500 Organization: Fisher Theatrical Message-ID: <001101c74eba$df05eea0$0300a8c0 [at] ftoffice.local> In-Reply-To: The problems I have found frequently with some designers drafting is that it is apparently rushed. I frequently have to redraw a complete package to be able to build anything complicated. The lines in the designers drawing frequently do not tough each other where they are supposed to, the dimensions don't snap to anything, and the spacing drawn is not the spacing intended. It is faster to redraw then to fix the base drawings we receive. Some also use grad students who may or may not be cad skilled to draw everything for them. Sam Fisher -----Original Message----- From: Stagecraft [mailto:stagecraft [at] theatrical.net] On Behalf Of Mick Alderson Sent: Sunday, February 11, 2007 2:01 PM To: Stagecraft Subject: Re: Vexing Vectorworks For info, archives & UNSUBSCRIBE, see --------------------------------------------------- Kh97925 [at] aol.com wrote: > Creating a drawing that prints to scale and looks good enough to the naked > eye to be able to read the measurements & make the cuts manually is relatively > easy in CAD and most 10-yr olds can do it after a few minutes of explaining > how the CAD software works. But creating a drawing that goes straight from > the designer's mind to the tool inputs requires a level of > manufacturing/product design engineering that a lot of designers just don't have. (Not that > there's anything wrong with that). A lot of designers don't even really > understand the concept of layers on a drawing. They just put what they need on the > page till it looks like what they want it to look like & can convey their > ideas to whomever needs to use it. What he said! Isn't it the TD's job to decide how a designer's drawings will be built and to generate the "working" drawings required? Yes, the designer should supply drawings that indicate what it looks like, but isn't it then up to a TD to decide exactly how it will be accomplished and then to generate the working drawings to the level of sophistication required? So why are designer drawings being fed into a CNC machine? I've figured out that I would be an "offender" in this discussion. I don't have a CNC mill, and have never even seen one. I don't know what they require. My "milling machine" is a student with a jig saw! I am a "sloppy" drafter in that I usually find "snaps" to be more frustrating than helpful (they keep snapping to the wrong point!), and so I often turn them off. My lines are rarely "properly" joined and may not meet when viewed at a high enough screen magnification. As a previous poster mentioned, they meet _just fine_ on a paper printout, which is the level of sophistication I need, and is the _same_ level of sophistication I would get with a quality hand drafting. It is "good enough". But I do take the point. My students may well go on to a shop which needs that kind of accuracy in drafting. I will try to improve my own technique, and teach them to be more careful as well. But that level of precision will add NOTHING to my own shop, at a marginal but real increase in my own work load. I *DO* look at this as another example of the tyranny of technology. CAD, like other technologies, is supposed to make drafting faster and easier, and so save us time. Instead, it _seems_ we have merely raised the bar on what is acceptable, even when a higher bar isn't needed. But because we CAN, we now MUST! -- Mick Alderson TD, Fredric March Theatre Univ. of Wis. Oshkosh ------------------------------ Message-ID: <7cd95e180702120749t7554dce6x871334a8f60e823f [at] mail.gmail.com> Date: Mon, 12 Feb 2007 10:49:18 -0500 From: "Mike Katz" Cc: BillPeeler [at] txstate.edu Subject: Re: Audio Possibilities In-Reply-To: References: Some faculty and students in both Theater and Music are playing with "Max MsP" which is a programing package that lets you insert & route sound in real time through varying filters & effects. It does incredible stuff, but from what I have seen it is not for the faint of heart. Mike snip . I'm involved in a show in > which we are wanting to take the mic signal from a performer on stage, > manipulate it in various ways (echo, reverb, various forms of > distortion, etc.) and then feed it into the overall mix in "real time". > We're looking for any techniques/software packages that will allow us to > do this sort of thing. -- Mike Katz Technical Director MIT Theater Arts 617.253.0824 ------------------------------ Message-ID: In-Reply-To: From: "dale cyr" Subject: Best Practice: Connecting widely dispersed audio systems Date: Mon, 12 Feb 2007 08:49:40 -0800 seeking the wisdom of the list... an upcoming gig requires a few widely dispersed (one or two city blocks spacing) audio systems to "broadcast" a signal from a central point. think 'downtown event covering 5 or 6 square city blocks'. each sound system will be a complete system. how can i reliably distribute an audio signal from a central source, to all other points, in real time? 2.4 gig (WiFi) is very crowded in this area. using cable is problematic (crossing streets, etc). what have you done? using what (specifically) equipment? what is the "best practice"? what questions do you have? dale cyr Spokane Wa. ------------------------------ Message-ID: <8231e7ea0702120850wde174ebh5ffba45a24f7a2fc [at] mail.gmail.com> Date: Mon, 12 Feb 2007 11:50:37 -0500 From: SS Subject: Welder Suggestions Oh wise list.... As it were, we may be in the market for some new gear. Specifically we are seeking to pick up a new MIG welder. We are not pumping out all metal scenery, so an industrial machine is not necessary. However (thinking ahead), we may start incorporating more metal work into our repertoire if possible. Most venues I have worked in the past have had Millers, usually 200 Series or better. I am unsure what sort of budget we will be working with here, so input on all makes/models are welcomed, although I am aiming high with my request. Anyone have any suggestions/recommendations for a good machine, easy to use/learn (this being for an educational venue), that can handle all the basics (and yes, I know this is a generalization: platforming, flats, etc., box-tube, angle, pipe etc.)? What are you all using out there in "Stagecraft Land"? TIA. -> Back to your regularly scheduled smoke break (and cell call from you Local's BA, but not on the floor or during a performance of course :) <- -- -SS TTS-EKU "Every day is an opportunity disguised as a challenge" ------------------------------ Message-Id: In-Reply-To: References: Date: Mon, 12 Feb 2007 12:18:14 -0500 From: Rigger Subject: Re: Cell phones on a call & in your shop At 9:36 AM -0500 2/12/07, Barney Simon wrote: > Okay,I will not get into the smoker thing, BUT what are > people's policies on cell phones? Never during a work call. The one possible execption would be if a department had a no-show and the Dept. Head is calling in for a replacement and/or awaiting the BA's return call. Family emergencies, such as Kristi outlined, are handled on a case-by-case basis, but the operative word here is "emergency." That being said, in the situation I find myelf in at present (rigging installations in new theatre construction), I take the call whenever I can, if I'm in a safe place to do so (e.g. not when I'm 40' in the air on a boom-lift), especially if it's a vendor I need to communicate with for the job at hand. But then again, I'm not racing the clock to put in a show at the present time, either. -- Dave Vick rigger [at] tds.net 20/20 Design Discipline is never an end in itself, only a means to an end. -- Robert Fripp ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 12 Feb 2007 09:25:24 -0800 (PST) From: Michael Heinicke Subject: Re: Welder Suggestions In-Reply-To: Message-ID: <343552.50685.qm [at] web82208.mail.mud.yahoo.com> --- SS wrote: > Anyone have any suggestions/recommendations for a > good machine, easy > to use/learn (this being for an educational venue), > that can handle > all the basics (and yes, I know this is a > generalization: platforming, > flats, etc., box-tube, angle, pipe etc.)? > > What are you all using out there in "Stagecraft > Land"? We have a Millermatic 210 and I've been pretty happy with it. It has been used on a very wide range of steel for a lot of different projects. If I had had the money when I purchased it, I would have bought the next step up which is the 251. The main reason being that the 251 has completely variable voltage while the 210 has 7 detents so you have to go with as close as possible instead of dialing in exactly. Still, it has been a great machine for us and I've been happy with it. Another advantage to the 210 (and I think the 251) is that you can set it up with a second cylinder and a spool gun for welding aluminum. From what I understand, it can be set up so that you can pretty much switch between the two guns at will without having to change anything other than voltage. Oh, and Miller had educational pricing when I purchased our machine almost 3 years ago. Mike Heinicke ------------------------------ Message-ID: <77fad3270702120932j34ca4e02l5b9b66bdf5450e8c [at] mail.gmail.com> Date: Mon, 12 Feb 2007 12:32:21 -0500 From: "Nathan Kahn" Subject: Re: inside-out electrical tape In-Reply-To: References: The tape is indeed Scotch 3M Super 33+. It came in a nice round plastic case. Nathan On 2/2/07, ladesigners [at] juno.com wrote: > For info, archives & UNSUBSCRIBE, see > --------------------------------------------------- > > Next time, buy Scotch 33+. > /s/ Richard > _________________________ > Today I used a roll of electrical tape that's been stored in my garage > for at least 10 years, exposed to severe high and low temperatures. > > The adhesive is now on the outside of the tape, instead of the inside. > That is, the first layer I removed had no adhesive on it at all. And > from that point on, the adhesive was on the outside of the roll. No > sticky at all on the inside. I was still able to use it :-) > > Innaresting, I thought . . . > > Nathan Kahn > > -- > Look Solutions USA, Ltd. > Toll-Free: 1-800-426-4189 > Email: usa [at] looksolutions.com > Web: www.looksolutionsusa.com > > > -- Look Solutions USA, Ltd. Toll-Free: 1-800-426-4189 Email: usa [at] looksolutions.com Web: www.looksolutionsusa.com ------------------------------ Message-Id: In-Reply-To: References: Date: Mon, 12 Feb 2007 12:31:52 -0500 From: Rigger Subject: Re: Welder Suggestions At 11:50 AM -0500 2/12/07, SS wrote: >We are not pumping out all metal scenery, so an industrial machine is >not necessary. However (thinking ahead), we may start incorporating >more metal work into our repertoire if possible. Most venues I have >worked in the past have had Millers, usually 200 Series or better. I >am unsure what sort of budget we will be working with here, so input >on all makes/models are welcomed, although I am aiming high with my >request. > >Anyone have any suggestions/recommendations for a good machine, easy >to use/learn (this being for an educational venue), that can handle >all the basics (and yes, I know this is a generalization: platforming, >flats, etc., box-tube, angle, pipe etc.)? Last fall I picked up a Lincoln "Weld-Pak 3200" at the local Home Despot for quite a reasonable price, and have flogged the snot out of it for the past five months doing flyrail and tension grid installations with nary a hiccup. I'm quite pleased with it. It'll do up to 1/4" steel (2-pass; 1-pass for anything smaller), is quite easy to learn the Dark Art of burning metal on (heck, *I* learned on it), and has held up to the sort of work I do quite nicely, for a 115v-powered rig. It'll do both flux-core wirefeed (gasless welding) and MIG, and is fitted with the gas plumbing & comes with the regulators in the kit; add your gas and go. I believe that it can also be fitted with a spoolgun for doing aluminum work, if you're so inclined. It also comes with a mounting base/caster kit which makes it easy to wheel around the worksite. I suspect that any of the big players - Miller/Hobart, Lincoln, &c. - will have a nice compact welder or three that'll suit your purposes in that same price-point. FWIW, though, I have a couple of friends who are pro welders on LNG pipelines in Alabama, and they swear by Lincoln. As a footnote, I've also found out through experience that there is such a thing as buying too small a wire-welder. I didn't think I'd use the max settings on the 3200, and boy was I wrong. The settings guides included with most welders tend to be somewhat optimistic, I think... Perhaps Stuart Wheaton could weigh in here. YM, as always, MV. -- Dave Vick rigger [at] tds.net 20/20 Design "I have grown to detest the exact kind of people AOL markets to: the clueless teeming millions who have absolutely no business anywhere near a computer or on the Internet." -- Ray Owen ------------------------------ Message-ID: <77fad3270702120934x6c9b5226q6dbbe063fba8c437 [at] mail.gmail.com> Date: Mon, 12 Feb 2007 12:34:06 -0500 From: "Nathan Kahn" Subject: Re: inside-out electrical tape In-Reply-To: References: Do you want it? Drop me an email and I'll mail it to you. Somebody may as well have fun with it :-) Nathan On 2/4/07, Paul Marsland wrote: > For info, archives & UNSUBSCRIBE, see > --------------------------------------------------- > > WOW! I would use that for taping up the tails when I drop them. > > Paul > > On 2/2/07, Nathan Kahn wrote: > > For info, archives & UNSUBSCRIBE, see > > --------------------------------------------------- > > > > Today I used a roll of electrical tape that's been stored in my garage > > for at least 10 years, exposed to severe high and low temperatures. > > > > The adhesive is now on the outside of the tape, instead of the inside. > > That is, the first layer I removed had no adhesive on it at all. And > > from that point on, the adhesive was on the outside of the roll. No > > sticky at all on the inside. I was still able to use it :-) > -- Look Solutions USA, Ltd. Toll-Free: 1-800-426-4189 Email: usa [at] looksolutions.com Web: www.looksolutionsusa.com ------------------------------ Message-Id: <7.0.0.16.2.20070212095304.02114d80 [at] uci.edu> Date: Mon, 12 Feb 2007 09:55:53 -0800 From: Ron Cargile Subject: Re: keeping track of it all Ian said: > Here at GMU there are approx. >snip< >I'm not sure if this helps but it's how things work here. > >Ian Thanks for the info, Ian. That's basically how things work here, too. ....Ron ---- Ron Cargile ME, Univ of Calif, Irvine (via digest) ------------------------------ Message-ID: <039501c74ed0$9e37ce50$e28aaa43 [at] DonTaco> From: "Don Taco" References: Subject: Re: inside-out electrical tape Date: Mon, 12 Feb 2007 10:07:08 -0800 Turn the case over and store it for another 10 years? The adhesive will migrate back to the proper side, no? > > The tape is indeed Scotch 3M Super 33+. It came in a nice round plastic > case. > > Nathan > >>> >> Next time, buy Scotch 33+. >> /s/ Richard >> _________________________ >> Today I used a roll of electrical tape that's been stored in my garage >> for at least 10 years, exposed to severe high and low temperatures. >> >> The adhesive is now on the outside of the tape, instead of the inside. >> That is, the first layer I removed had no adhesive on it at all. And >> from that point on, the adhesive was on the outside of the roll. No >> sticky at all on the inside. I was still able to use it :-) ------------------------------ Message-Id: <3.0.6.32.20070212105135.00ca3400 [at] pop.west.cox.net> Date: Mon, 12 Feb 2007 10:51:35 From: CB Subject: Audio Possibilities >we are wanting to take the mic signal from a performer on stage, >manipulate it in various ways (echo, reverb, various forms of >distortion, etc.) and then feed it into the overall mix in "real time". Use the post-fader auxes from your console to feed the effects, and the inputs of other channels to receive the outputs of the effects channels and combine them with the 'dry' signal. Where is your sound designer/engineer op? This is basic mixology, 101. Unless I've mistaken the intent of your post, there are drug-addled high school dropouts that are doing this in thousands of clubs across the country every night. A few in San Marcos (if memory serves, and a few dozen every night just down the street in Austin. You are in the middle of the music Mecca of the SW (with SXSW coming up, eh?), are there no sound qualified persons on your crew or in your house at all? BTW, you owe me some brisket from Kreuze's for this advice... Chris "Chris" Babbie Location Sound MON AZ Delete key training and post trimming done by appointment. Rates negotiable, will trade for typing lessons/ADD treatment... ------------------------------ Message-Id: <7.0.0.16.2.20070212101320.0210f7a8 [at] uci.edu> Date: Mon, 12 Feb 2007 10:15:52 -0800 From: Ron Cargile Subject: Re: Banning Incandescent Light bulbs. I heard a report on this on NPR last week that has Levine (the guy who thought this up) quoted as saying that CF lamps are so efficient that people should be forced to use them. Kinda sheds a little light on his agenda, doesn't it? ....Ron ---- Ron Cargile ME, Univ of Calif, Irvine (via digest) ------------------------------ From: "ladesigners [at] juno.com" Date: Mon, 12 Feb 2007 18:15:38 GMT Subject: Re: inside-out electrical tape Message-Id: <20070212.101608.15672.1174157 [at] webmail31.lax.untd.com> Then it should still be under warranty, 10 years later. This is one = of 3M's flagship products, and is THE most stolen electrical tape. /s/ Richard __________________________ Turn the case over and store it for another 10 years? The adhesive = will = migrate back to the proper side, no? > > The tape is indeed Scotch 3M Super 33+. It came in a nice round = plastic case. > > Nathan > >>> >> Next time, buy Scotch 33+. >> /s/ Richard >> _________________________ >> Today I used a roll of electrical tape that's been stored in my = garage >> for at least 10 years, exposed to severe high and low temperatures. >> >> The adhesive is now on the outside of the tape, instead of the = inside. >> That is, the first layer I removed had no adhesive on it at all. = And >> from that point on, the adhesive was on the outside of the roll. = No >> sticky at all on the inside. I was still able to use it :-) ------------------------------ Message-Id: <3.0.6.32.20070212110153.00ca3400 [at] pop.west.cox.net> Date: Mon, 12 Feb 2007 11:01:53 From: CB Subject: Audio Possibilities >> We're looking for any techniques/software packages that will allow us to >> do this sort of thing. Any ideas? >My first question is why? Let that go. >My first answer is that a well designed patch panel ought to allow you to do all of this. I'm not sure how you mean to do that with a patch panel, Frank, but I'm pretty sure that I really don't want to know, so don't bother to obfuscate the issue by explaining. Frank, there have been many new wasy to do things and many new ways in which they are done since you were last current in audio. There have been far too many posts where your answers to audio questions have been absolutely and unequivocally wrong, and far too few wehre your answers have been correct. I can't really remember but one off the top of my head. Please, leave this to the experts, or at least those with more recent training and experience. Stay with lighting in the round without color in bare feet while smoking from the catwalks. You know, things you deal with on a weekly basis. Chris "Chris" Babbie Location Sound MON AZ Delete key training and post trimming done by appointment. Rates negotiable, will trade for typing lessons/ADD treatment... ------------------------------ Message-ID: <45D0B90C.2010809 [at] post.tau.ac.il> Date: Mon, 12 Feb 2007 20:59:24 +0200 From: Judy Subject: big class > > >Do you have any spare instruments (even unlamped/not >working) that you could bring into the classroom for >show and tell? > Thanks for the idea - but I already did that! I have a couple of non functioning lamps (fresnel and Leko) and we even cut half of them away to show the insides! In addition I took them in smaller groups to play around with functioning lamps themselves. It just isn't enough. It seems like it should be enough to me (I mean, how much is there to know about an instrument?) but they claim that they just forget, these glimpses aren't a substitute for constant experience and it doesn't stick. I figure all forty of them can't just be stupid (in fact they are a nice group), so if they all have a problem I'd like to do something about it, and internet sites could help. When I was a student and I wanted to understand things I went on my own initiative and hung around or helped out if I could while people were doing lighting, in addition to classes. But that was pretty long ago.... ------------------------------ Subject: RE: big class Date: Mon, 12 Feb 2007 14:07:04 -0500 Message-ID: <6E497ADB607656479C24E6D7BF6B505A07635102 [at] exchange.rmwc.edu> In-Reply-To: From: "Paul Schreiner" > When I was a student and I wanted to understand things I went=20 > on my own initiative and hung around or helped out if I could=20 > while people were doing lighting, in addition to classes. But=20 > that was pretty long ago.... ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 12 Feb 2007 14:11:07 -0500 Subject: Re: big class From: Steve Shelley Message-ID: In-Reply-To: And now suddenly today I'm getting double posts from everyone. Noah, did something change in the last 24 hours? Or maybe it's just an extended case of deja vu. shelley On 2/12/07 2:07 PM, "Paul Schreiner" wrote: > For info, archives & UNSUBSCRIBE, see > --------------------------------------------------- > >> When I was a student and I wanted to understand things I went >> on my own initiative and hung around or helped out if I could >> while people were doing lighting, in addition to classes. But >> that was pretty long ago.... > > -- Steve Shelley SoftSymbols Designer MrTemplate [at] Earthlink.net www.fieldtemplate.com ------------------------------ Message-ID: <2154.205.215.253.244.1171307936.squirrel [at] webmail.peak.org> In-Reply-To: References: Date: Mon, 12 Feb 2007 11:18:56 -0800 (PST) Subject: Re: big class From: "Bill Nelson" > Thanks for the idea - but I already did that! I have a couple of non > functioning lamps (fresnel and Leko) and we even cut half of them away > to show the insides! In addition I took them in smaller groups to play > around with functioning lamps themselves. It just isn't enough. It seems > like it should be enough to me (I mean, how much is there to know about > an instrument?) but they claim that they just forget, these glimpses > aren't a substitute for constant experience and it doesn't stick. I > figure all forty of them can't just be stupid (in fact they are a nice > group), so if they all have a problem I'd like to do something about it, > and internet sites could help. Do they get handouts that show the internal construction of the various instruments? I also set up functioning instruments on a pipe in the classroom. That allow them to see the instruments in action. The instruments are bright enough that the demo can be done under room lighting. Both an ellipsoidal and a Fresnel can be plugged into a wall outlet at the same time, allowing the curious to play with the adjustments. I use an ellipsoidal that has an iris, so they can experiment with that as well. > When I was a student and I wanted to understand things I went on my own > initiative and hung around or helped out if I could while people were > doing lighting, in addition to classes. But that was pretty long ago.... If there were a video game for their PC that required them to solve various lighting tasks, they would probably be more enthusiastic. Bill ------------------------------ Message-ID: <77fad3270702121129h6500075p14202ef243d82828 [at] mail.gmail.com> Date: Mon, 12 Feb 2007 14:29:48 -0500 From: "Nathan Kahn" Subject: Re: inside-out electrical tape In-Reply-To: References: On 2/12/07, ladesigners [at] juno.com wrote: > For info, archives & UNSUBSCRIBE, see > --------------------------------------------------- > > Then it should still be under warranty, 10 years later. This is one > of 3M's flagship products, and is THE most stolen electrical tape. > /s/ Richard Really, then I can get it replaced? Good to know . . . Nathan -- Look Solutions USA, Ltd. Toll-Free: 1-800-426-4189 Email: usa [at] looksolutions.com Web: www.looksolutionsusa.com ------------------------------ Message-ID: <45D0C062.6000703 [at] gmail.com> Date: Mon, 12 Feb 2007 14:30:42 -0500 From: Stephen Litterst Organization: University of Delaware Subject: Re: big class References: In-Reply-To: Bill Nelson wrote: > --------------------------------------------------- > > If there were a video game for their PC that required them to solve various lighting > tasks, they would probably be more enthusiastic. Like a first-person-shooter but with lekos, fresnels and scoops rather than pistols, shotguns and the BFG-9000? Steve L. -- Stephen Litterst Technical Operations Supervisor litterst [at] udel.edu Center for the Arts 302/831-0601 University of Delaware ------------------------------ Message-ID: <2182.205.215.253.244.1171309551.squirrel [at] webmail.peak.org> In-Reply-To: References: Date: Mon, 12 Feb 2007 11:45:51 -0800 (PST) Subject: Re: big class From: "Bill Nelson" >> If there were a video game for their PC that required them to solve various >> lighting >> tasks, they would probably be more enthusiastic. > > Like a first-person-shooter but with lekos, fresnels and scoops rather > than pistols, shotguns and the BFG-9000? Yep. Except they have to use the right instruments correctly to solve the problem and go on to the next step. Bill ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 12 Feb 2007 14:50:41 -0500 Subject: Re: Welder Suggestions From: Bill Potter Message-ID: In-Reply-To: I just bought a MillerMatic 140 with Autoset last Friday. I haven't even tried it out yet! I'll post results after I've run a few beads with it. Bill Potter St. Paul's School Concord NH On 2/12/07 11:50 AM, "SS" wrote: > For info, archives & UNSUBSCRIBE, see > --------------------------------------------------- > > Oh wise list.... > > As it were, we may be in the market for some new gear. Specifically we > are seeking to pick up a new MIG welder. > > We are not pumping out all metal scenery, so an industrial machine is > not necessary. However (thinking ahead), we may start incorporating > more metal work into our repertoire if possible. Most venues I have > worked in the past have had Millers, usually 200 Series or better. I > am unsure what sort of budget we will be working with here, so input > on all makes/models are welcomed, although I am aiming high with my > request. > > Anyone have any suggestions/recommendations for a good machine, easy > to use/learn (this being for an educational venue), that can handle > all the basics (and yes, I know this is a generalization: platforming, > flats, etc., box-tube, angle, pipe etc.)? > > What are you all using out there in "Stagecraft Land"? ------------------------------ Message-ID: <2186.205.215.253.244.1171309878.squirrel [at] webmail.peak.org> In-Reply-To: References: Date: Mon, 12 Feb 2007 11:51:18 -0800 (PST) Subject: Re: big class From: "Bill Nelson" > Like a first-person-shooter but with lekos, fresnels and scoops rather > than pistols, shotguns and the BFG-9000? For example, several of the instruments would be either Source Fours or Shakespears. In their wandering, they would have to find the instruments, various drop in irises, gobo holders, gobos, gel supplies, maybe a donut. They might even have to find the proper lamps and the correct lens barrels. Bill ------------------------------ Message-ID: <2188.205.215.253.244.1171309921.squirrel [at] webmail.peak.org> In-Reply-To: References: Date: Mon, 12 Feb 2007 11:52:01 -0800 (PST) Subject: Re: big class From: "Bill Nelson" > Like a first-person-shooter but with lekos, fresnels and scoops rather > than pistols, shotguns and the BFG-9000? For example, several of the instruments would be either Source Fours or Shakespears. In their wandering, they would have to find the instruments, various drop in irises, gobo holders, gobos, gel supplies, maybe a donut. They might even have to find the proper lamps and the correct lens barrels. Bill ------------------------------ Message-Id: In-Reply-To: References: Date: Mon, 12 Feb 2007 15:25:06 -0500 From: Rigger Subject: Re: Banning Incandescent Light bulbs. At 10:15 AM -0800 2/12/07, Ron Cargile wrote: > I heard a report on this on NPR last week that has Levine (the guy > who thought this up) quoted as saying that CF lamps are so efficient > that people should be forced to use them. You must follow ze orders! Ve know best vat is g=FCt for you! > Kinda sheds a little light on his agenda, doesn't it? Kinda makes you ponder whose fluffing his pillows, actually... Are any of the big CF lamp makers (read:=20 financial contributors) located in his district,=20 I wonder? -- Dave Vick rigger [at] tds.net 20/20 Design "You thought you were there to guide me; You were only in my way. You're wrong if you think that I'll be Just like you." -- Three Days Grace ------------------------------ Message-ID: <2359.205.215.253.244.1171312158.squirrel [at] webmail.peak.org> In-Reply-To: References: Date: Mon, 12 Feb 2007 12:29:18 -0800 (PST) Subject: Re: Stop that light! No, fade it up somewhere else! From: "Bill Nelson" > Yeah, this was the Bell thing that I was talking about! Brantford, gotta > make a note of that... He called a grocery store and a friend, and a post > office or something called him. There were three calls made. He called from his home to the general store. He received two calls, one from Brantford (probably his lab) and one from a shop in a nearby town named Paris. Bill ------------------------------ Message-ID: <2367.205.215.253.244.1171312552.squirrel [at] webmail.peak.org> In-Reply-To: References: Date: Mon, 12 Feb 2007 12:35:52 -0800 (PST) Subject: Re: Banning Incandescent Light bulbs. From: "Bill Nelson" > Kinda sheds a little light on his agenda, doesn't it? Actually, I suspect he is just out for free publicity. His name would have to be well known if he wants to run for congress. Bill ------------------------------ Message-ID: <2380.205.215.253.244.1171313105.squirrel [at] webmail.peak.org> In-Reply-To: References: Date: Mon, 12 Feb 2007 12:45:05 -0800 (PST) Subject: Re: Stop that light! No, fade it up somewhere else! From: "Bill Nelson" > connected in 1892, but you couldn't place a long distance call from your > phone by yourself until just after WWII. Quite a bit after. The first direct customer dialed call was in 1951. Bill ------------------------------ From: MissWisc [at] aol.com Message-ID: Date: Mon, 12 Feb 2007 15:57:57 EST Subject: Re: big class _pschreiner [at] rmwc.edu_ (mailto:pschreiner [at] rmwc.edu) writes: << > When I was a student and I wanted to understand things I went on my own initiative and hung around or helped out if I could while people were doing lighting, in addition to classes. But that was pretty long ago.... . >> AMEN!!!! I taught my son about Wikipedia this weekend. Couldn't have given him a better "toy" for any price. Between the internet and the public library, there's nothing we can't learn! Kristi ------------------------------ Message-ID: <45D0D56F.6020902 [at] txstate.edu> Date: Mon, 12 Feb 2007 15:00:31 -0600 From: Bill Peeler Reply-To: BillPeeler [at] txstate.edu Subject: Re: Audio Possibilities References: In-Reply-To: CB wrote: >> we are wanting to take the mic signal from a performer on stage, >> manipulate it in various ways (echo, reverb, various forms of >> distortion, etc.) and then feed it into the overall mix in "real time". >> > Use the post-fader auxes from your console to feed the effects, and the > inputs of other channels to receive the outputs of the effects channels and > combine them with the 'dry' signal. This is basic mixology, 101. Unless I've mistaken the intent of your > post, Actually, it's my fault for being too simplistic in stating the problem. For this production, we hope to manipulate several voices (as well as instruments) at the same time, each ideally with different effects applied. I had envisioned a software based solution that would allow "pre-configuring" and saving a series of assignments and effects so that they could be executed much like a cue list. This may still be elementary for many, but it's a little daunting for me. Brian and Mike have given me a couple of promising possibilities to investigate (thanks again), but I'm open to any and all suggestions. > BTW, you owe me some brisket from Kreuze's for this advice... Deal, only I'll do you one better and take you to the City Market in Luling... Bill Peeler Texas State University ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 12 Feb 2007 13:20:46 -0800 (PST) From: Charlie Richmond Subject: Re: Banning Incandescent Light bulbs. In-Reply-To: Message-ID: References: On Mon, 12 Feb 2007, Rigger wrote: > Are any of the big CF lamp makers (read: financial contributors) located in > his district, I wonder? I think he's in California, not China ;-) C ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 12 Feb 2007 13:33:13 -0800 (PST) From: Charlie Richmond Subject: Re: big class In-Reply-To: Message-ID: References: On Mon, 12 Feb 2007, MissWisc [at] aol.com wrote: > I taught my son about Wikipedia this weekend. Couldn't have given him a > better "toy" for any price. Between the internet and the public library, there's > nothing we can't learn! I'm a huge fan of Wikipedia and have edited many articles there, but you will find it to be somewhat controversial on this list ;-) Hey! try looking up Compact Flourescent ;-) C ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 12 Feb 2007 13:36:02 -0800 (PST) From: Charlie Richmond Subject: Re: Audio Possibilities In-Reply-To: Message-ID: References: On Mon, 12 Feb 2007, Bill Peeler wrote: > Actually, it's my fault for being too simplistic in stating the problem. For > this production, we hope to manipulate several voices (as well as > instruments) at the same time, each ideally with different effects applied. I > had envisioned a software based solution that would allow "pre-configuring" > and saving a series of assignments and effects so that they could be executed > much like a cue list. This may still be elementary for many, but it's a > little daunting for me. Brian and Mike have given me a couple of promising > possibilities to investigate (thanks again), but I'm open to any and all > suggestions. You will be able to do this very easily with our new SoundMan-Server software, along with a show control program (or ABEdit) to manage it. Of course we expect the capabilities of this software to improve dramatically in the next few months as more and more third party developers create useful and creative front ends for it.... See the far left column of our home page for more info (and the mailing list, below....) Enjoy! Charlie | Charlie Richmond - Richmond Sound Design - Skype: charlierichmond | | http://www.RichmondSoundDesign.com "Performance for the Long Run" | | SoundMan List: http://www.RichmondSoundDesign.com/sndmanlist.html | ------------------------------ Subject: RE: 360Q maintenance Date: Mon, 12 Feb 2007 17:09:44 -0500 Message-ID: In-Reply-To: From: "Matt Gard" I agree with them. the only useful thing I have to add is that most of=20 the "triangular" focus plates are square now, and they are quite=20 malliable, so if you are on a budget, it is possible to reflatten them with a hammer or a vise. I believe the difference is that the Triangular plates are on Altman 360's (no "Q"), which are the "toploaders", and=20 used a prefocus base, not a tp-22. It may be that some of the older 360 Qs still used the triangular focus plate though. Is it time for instrument maintaince *again*? sigh. Matt > There should be two screws that hold the TP-22 socket to the = triangular > aluminum "focus plate". Remove those two screws. You'll also need to > remove the Heyco strain relief. I use Channel-Lock pliers for this, = but > there is a special tool you can purchase. It will probably crack, = because of > heat/age and need to be replaced. Plan to order some of these at the = same > time you order replacement sockets. You may need to at least = partially > remove the triangular "focus plate" in order to get the leads = re-routed. Look at the triangular "focus plate" at this time. Often these plates=20 are bent by bad bench-focusing. If it needs replacement, this is the=20 time to do it. Other than that, follow Dave's directions. Steve L. ------------------------------ From: "David B. Nelson" References: Subject: RE: 360Q maintenance Date: Mon, 12 Feb 2007 17:47:16 -0500 Message-ID: <014901c74ef7$bf58b960$6401a8c0 [at] NEWTON603> In-Reply-To: > I agree with them. the only useful thing I have to add is that most of > the "triangular" focus plates are square now ... Now that you mention it, that's right. > ...it is possible to reflatten them with a hammer or a vise. The reason they get bent is that someone over-tightens the center tensioning screw. The center screw is just to keep slight tension against the other three screws, which form a tripod arrangement. You always need to back off on the center screw before tightening any of the other three. One point I forgot to mention is that the leads to the socket are covered by a sheet aluminum housing where they come through the focus plate. This is a little "box" that is riveted to the focus plate, by a tab. Just bend this out of the way and bend it back afterwards. You can drill out the rivet and re-rivet (or bolt) it upon replacement, but that's not really necessary. Regards, Dave Nelson Technical Director Adams Memorial Opera House Derry, NH, USA ------------------------------ Message-ID: <45D0F1C8.8000309 [at] fuse.net> Date: Mon, 12 Feb 2007 18:01:28 -0500 From: Stuart Wheaton Reply-To: sdwheaton [at] fuse.net Subject: Re: Welder Suggestions References: In-Reply-To: Rigger wrote: > As a footnote, I've also found out through experience that there is such > a thing as buying too small a wire-welder. I didn't think I'd use the > max settings on the 3200, and boy was I wrong. The settings guides > included with most welders tend to be somewhat optimistic, I think... > Perhaps Stuart Wheaton could weigh in here. OH yeah! Welder size should be considered in two ways, maximum thickness (or heat capacity) of materials and desired longevity of the machine. For a decent shop welder, at the best price, I would E-bay or look locally for a well used Miller 200, 210 or 250. They are bullet proof machines and you will never max one out in theatre welding. Small machines are great for portability, but if you ever get into Aluminum, a 110 volt machine will not have the needed power to get the base metal hot enough, long enough for good fusion. And any little welder will by definition be running at a higher percentage of max output on any setting compared to a serious industrial machine. This means it is working harder, getting hotter, and gonna give up sooner. As far as the settings, I've come to the conclusion that they are written for butt joints in flat plate. I usually find them about 30% light for tube to tube fillets. Depending on the temperment of the person, there does seem to be a fairly wide variation in what settings will produce a sound weld, but I have found that hotter/faster actually puts less total heat into the metal than cooler/slower, and less heat means less shrinkage and less warpage. The miller 200, 210 and 250 series can all accommodate spoolguns, the 210 is very nice for thin aluminum if you get the pulser version. The only thing I don't like about the 210 is that the double tank rack makes it very wide-assed, if they staggered the tanks a bit it would be easier to snake through the shop. Michael is correct, for swapping between metals on the 210, just set the wire feed and voltage for your new task, and squeeze the right trigger. This does mean that the tip of the regular stinger is hot when you are welding with the spoolgun and vice versa, but I have never had it short on anything. The 210 only runs the wire feed motor for the gun you are triggering. For theatre work, if you do a lot of welded flattage, or have a large dedicated welding area, getting a wire feeder and hanging it on a swinging arm over your work area so you can weld over a large space without dragging the power supply and tanks back and forth is very useful. If you want photos of a nice welding table or this overhead feeder, I'd be happy to e-mail them to you. Stuart ------------------------------ Message-ID: <45D0EEC2.3040703 [at] gmail.com> Date: Mon, 12 Feb 2007 15:48:34 -0700 From: Chip Wood Subject: Re: Stop that light! No, fade it up somewhere else! References: In-Reply-To: Bill Nelson wrote: >> Yeah, this was the Bell thing that I was talking about! Brantford, gotta >> make a note of that... He called a grocery store and a friend, and a post >> office or something called him. > > There were three calls made. > > He called from his home to the general store. He received two calls, one from > Brantford (probably his lab) and one from a shop in a nearby town named Paris. > I was up that way a couple of years ago and visited the A.G. Bell Museum. Pretty interesting, later he was into a lot more things than telephony. This thread shows me the interest A.G. Bell has in this group. As I am retired and getting rid of stuff, I wonder if anybody on the list would be interested in a good shape 1911 Ed of A.G. Bell's "The Mechanism of Speech". I also have a number of seminal books on Speech Science and Engineering ranging from 1906 to 1946. If anybody is interested, I can post the exact volumes. Chip ------------------------------ From: "Will Hill" Subject: RE: Lumber Date: Mon, 12 Feb 2007 23:06:58 -0000 Message-ID: In-Reply-To: The way I see it on this (UK) side of the pond. Timber - order Planed Square Edge (PSE) you will lose about 5mm on a dimension that approximates an inch as 25mm,so a piece of 3 x 1 comes out at (roughly) 70mm x 20mm. Order Planed Finished Size (PFS) and using the same method you get timber at (roughly, exactly!) 75mm x 25mm. I often order the latter despite price premium, as it seems to guarantee a better quality of timber. Sheet Material. You can order imperially an 8' x 4', and what you get is a 2440 x 1220 with a tolerance expected to be +/- 1-2 mm depending on supplier/stock/materials. Not usually a tolerance that can't be worked around in my scheme of things. Just done a 'Get In' today for a US built set that hadn't been partially metricised in terms of bolted fixings for a UK tour and the amount of time lost due to scratching heads over which version went in which hole (captive nuts) was painful. Still variety is the spice of life!!. Will Hill, Technical Manager, Theatre Royal Norwich, w.hill [at] theatreroyalnorwich.co.uk -----Original Message----- From: Stagecraft [mailto:stagecraft [at] theatrical.net]On Behalf Of Bill Nelson Sent: 12 February 2007 08:08 To: Stagecraft Subject: Re: Lumber For info, archives & UNSUBSCRIBE, see --------------------------------------------------- > As the USA is probably the last country in the world to use imperial > measurement, the timber you have are cut in nominal sizes. 8ft x 4ft > is actually 2440mm by 1220mm, 1 inch is actually cut to 20mm so for > example 2in by 1in is really 40mm by 20mm. I suppose you could get > actual size but that would be more expensive as it would only be > useful for the USA. Actually, if that is so, then the 1x2 is slightly larger in cross section than by the old measurements. 20/25.4 is 78.7%. The old 3/4" is only 75%. 8 feet is 2438.4 mm. Bill ------------------------------ From: Subject: Re: Re: Welder Suggestions Date: Mon, 12 Feb 2007 23:15:53 +0000 Message-Id: <20070212231553.WRE29112.aamtaout04-winn.ispmail.ntl.com [at] smtp.ntlworld.com> > > From: Stuart Wheaton > Date: 2007/02/12 Mon PM 11:01:28 GMT > To: "Stagecraft" > Subject: Re: Welder Suggestions > > For info, archives & UNSUBSCRIBE, see > --------------------------------------------------- > > Rigger wrote: > > > As a footnote, I've also found out through experience that there is such > > a thing as buying too small a wire-welder. I didn't think I'd use the > > max settings on the 3200, and boy was I wrong. The settings guides > > included with most welders tend to be somewhat optimistic, I think... > > Perhaps Stuart Wheaton could weigh in here. > > OH yeah! Welder size should be considered in two ways, maximum > thickness (or heat capacity) of materials and desired longevity of the > machine. > > For a decent shop welder, at the best price, I would E-bay or look > locally for a well used Miller 200, 210 or 250. They are bullet proof > machines and you will never max one out in theatre welding. > > Small machines are great for portability, but if you ever get into > Aluminum, a 110 volt machine will not have the needed power to get the > base metal hot enough, long enough for good fusion. And any little > welder will by definition be running at a higher percentage of max > output on any setting compared to a serious industrial machine. This > means it is working harder, getting hotter, and gonna give up sooner. Surprising. The melting point of aluminium and its alloys is a good deal lower than that of steel. On the other hand, the thermal conductivity is higher, so the heat may be conducted away from the site faster. This may well lead to more rapid cooling of the weld, and set up stress in a long joint. I've never done aluminium welding. All we had was a 415V brute force welder, using AC and coated rods. How we never set the workshop on fire I shall never know, as it had a wood block floor. Frank Wood ----------------------------------------- Email sent from www.virginmedia.com/email Virus-checked using McAfee(R) Software and scanned for spam ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 12 Feb 2007 18:18:56 -0500 From: Josh Ratty Subject: RE: Welder Suggestions In-reply-to: Cc: sdwheaton [at] fuse.net Reply-to: josh.ratty [at] verizon.net Message-id: <00e001c74efc$2c284430$6401a8c0 [at] Rattys> -----Original Message----- From: Stagecraft [mailto:stagecraft [at] theatrical.net] On Behalf Of Stuart Wheaton Sent: Monday, February 12, 2007 6:01 PM To: Stagecraft Subject: Re: Welder Suggestions . As far as the settings, I've come to the conclusion that they are written for butt joints in flat plate. I usually find them about 30% light for tube to tube fillets. Depending on the temperment of the person, there does seem to be a fairly wide variation in what settings will produce a sound weld, but I have found that hotter/faster actually puts less total heat into the metal than cooler/slower, and less heat means less shrinkage and less warpage. The miller 200, 210 and 250 series can all accommodate spoolguns, the 210 is very nice for thin aluminum if you get the pulser version. The only thing I don't like about the 210 is that the double tank rack makes it very wide-assed, if they staggered the tanks a bit it would be easier to snake through the shop. Michael is correct, for swapping between metals on the 210, just set the wire feed and voltage for your new task, and squeeze the right trigger. This does mean that the tip of the regular stinger is hot when you are welding with the spoolgun and vice versa, but I have never had it short on anything. The 210 only runs the wire feed motor for the gun you are triggering. Stuart wrote the above. I wrote the below. Hotter and faster indeed puts less heat into the piece. Temperature and heat are different. Welding SLOWER at a LOWER TEMPERATURE will put MORE HEAT into the piece. Would you rather eat a Turkey cooked for 1 hour at 600 degrees or a turkey cooked for 4 hours at 300 degrees? It takes time for the HEAT to raise the TEMPERATURE. That is what will warp the piece. Well actually it's as the weld cools and contracts. Hopefully this makes sense, if it's wrong I expect I will be summarily corrected. As for spool guns, don't forget they're for more than just Aluminum. Got a piece on stage or in the air that your gun won't reach? Throw a steel roll in the spool gun and you have much more reach. It's a lot easier than stick welding if you aren't dealing with experienced stick welders. As for which brand, I haven't much a problem with the big red one or the big blue one, but I have a lot more experience with the Millers and love them. Josh Ratty ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 12 Feb 2007 18:21:40 -0500 From: Josh Ratty Subject: RE: Lumber In-reply-to: Reply-to: josh.ratty [at] verizon.net Message-id: <00e101c74efc$8d109db0$6401a8c0 [at] Rattys> -----Original Message----- From: Stagecraft [mailto:stagecraft [at] theatrical.net] On Behalf Of Will Hill Sent: Monday, February 12, 2007 6:07 PM To: Stagecraft Subject: Re: Lumber Just done a 'Get In' today for a US built set that hadn't been partially metricised in terms of bolted fixings for a UK tour and the amount of time lost due to scratching heads over which version went in which hole (captive nuts) was painful. Still variety is the spice of life!!. Will Hill, Technical Manager, Theatre Royal Norwich, Hmmmm... Just like working on my Jeep. Never sure if that next fastener I reach for is gonna be metric or not. The time wasted is indeed measurable. Josh Ratty ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 12 Feb 2007 15:26:23 -0800 (PST) From: Charlie Richmond Subject: Re: Lumber In-Reply-To: Message-ID: References: On Mon, 12 Feb 2007, Josh Ratty wrote: > Hmmmm... Just like working on my Jeep. Never sure if that next fastener > I reach for is gonna be metric or not. The time wasted is indeed > measurable. Here's a rule of thumb: the US auto industry has been fully metric for over 20 years now so if the fastener is part of the vehicle, it'll be metric. If it's a third party accessory or add-on (like a removable top, brush bar, carrier, etc.) sourced from a US manufacturer it will probably not be metric. So just look at the source of the item you are dealing with and figure it that way... C ------------------------------ From: Subject: Re: Re: Lumber Date: Mon, 12 Feb 2007 23:29:08 +0000 Message-Id: <20070212232909.KYKZ17393.aamtaout02-winn.ispmail.ntl.com [at] smtp.ntlworld.com> > > From: "Will Hill" > Date: 2007/02/12 Mon PM 11:06:58 GMT > To: "Stagecraft" > Subject: Re: Lumber > > For info, archives & UNSUBSCRIBE, see > --------------------------------------------------- > > The way I see it on this (UK) side of the pond. > > Timber - order Planed Square Edge (PSE) you will lose about 5mm on a > dimension that approximates an inch as 25mm,so a piece of 3 x 1 comes out at > (roughly) 70mm x 20mm. Order Planed Finished Size (PFS) and using the same > method you get timber at (roughly, exactly!) 75mm x 25mm. I often order the > latter despite price premium, as it seems to guarantee a better quality of > timber. This is right. To get a nominal 2" x 1", you start off with real 2" x 1" rough sawn, and run it through the planing machine to take off the hairy bits. PFS material means that you have to start off with a bigger rough sawn size, so there is much more wastage, and a special sawn size order. Hence the premium. Frank Wood ----------------------------------------- Email sent from www.virginmedia.com/email Virus-checked using McAfee(R) Software and scanned for spam ------------------------------ From: Subject: Re: Re: Welder Suggestions Date: Mon, 12 Feb 2007 23:35:53 +0000 Message-Id: <20070212233553.ISNS219.aamtaout01-winn.ispmail.ntl.com [at] smtp.ntlworld.com> > > From: Josh Ratty > Date: 2007/02/12 Mon PM 11:18:56 GMT > To: "Stagecraft" > CC: sdwheaton [at] fuse.net > Subject: Re: Welder Suggestions > > For info, archives & UNSUBSCRIBE, see > --------------------------------------------------- > Hotter and faster indeed puts less heat into the piece. Temperature and > heat are different. Welding SLOWER at a LOWER TEMPERATURE will put MORE > HEAT into the piece. Would you rather eat a Turkey cooked for 1 hour > at 600 degrees or a turkey cooked for 4 hours at 300 degrees? It takes > time for the HEAT to raise the TEMPERATURE. That is what will warp the > piece. Well actually it's as the weld cools and contracts. Hopefully > this makes sense, if it's wrong I expect I will be summarily corrected. This reminds me of the way my mother-in-law once cooked a leg of pork. Charred on the outside; raw on the inside. This is not a good recipe for either pork or welds. Frank Wood ----------------------------------------- Email sent from www.virginmedia.com/email Virus-checked using McAfee(R) Software and scanned for spam ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 12 Feb 2007 18:44:37 -0500 From: Josh Ratty Subject: RE: Lumber In-reply-to: Reply-to: josh.ratty [at] verizon.net Message-id: <00e201c74eff$c16bc140$6401a8c0 [at] Rattys> -----Original Message----- From: Stagecraft [mailto:stagecraft [at] theatrical.net] On Behalf Of Charlie Richmond Sent: Monday, February 12, 2007 6:26 PM To: Stagecraft Subject: Re: Lumber Here's a rule of thumb: the US auto industry has been fully metric for over 20 years now so if the fastener is part of the vehicle, it'll be metric. If it's a third party accessory or add-on (like a removable top, brush bar, carrier, etc.) sourced from a US manufacturer it will probably not be metric. So just look at the source of the item you are dealing with and figure it that way... C And that was the impression I was under until I had to remove my exploded transfer case from my transmission. 9/16" there. I feel like I've run into others as well but it's been a little while since I've done some serious wrenching under there, thankfully. Josh Ratty ------------------------------ Message-ID: <45D0FF70.5070000 [at] fuse.net> Date: Mon, 12 Feb 2007 18:59:44 -0500 From: Stuart Wheaton Reply-To: sdwheaton [at] fuse.net Subject: Re: Welder Suggestions References: In-Reply-To: frank.wood95 [at] ntlworld.com wrote: > Surprising. The melting point of aluminium and its alloys is a good > deal lower than that of steel. On the other hand, the thermal > conductivity is higher, so the heat may be conducted away from the > site faster. This may well lead to more rapid cooling of the weld, > and set up stress in a long joint. I've never done aluminium welding. > All we had was a 415V brute force welder, using AC and coated rods. > How we never set the workshop on fire I shall never know, as it had a > wood block floor. Trust me Frank, I welded more aluminum between 6 and 8 AM today than you have in your 60+ years. The Aluminum absorbs the heat as fast as the machine can dump it in. With a steel structure, you can grab a few inches from the welds and move the piece soon after welding, with aluminum, the whole area around the joint becomes too hot to handle VERY quickly. For equivalent sections of Aluminum and steel, the steel will be 2 heat settings lower and 30-50 % lower wire feed. If I forget to switch the settings, the steel disappears instantly, or the aluminum pops and globs and just laughs at me. As far as your floor, one of the hardest things to set fire to is a flat plane. When you light a campfire you won't hold the match to the side of a log, you hold it to a fuzz of kindling. Fire needs lots of surface area to get a good hold. My welding table has a layer of sacrificial lauan under the grid to keep spatter off the stuff stored below it. In 8 years of welding on it, I have never had a sustained flame on the table surface. Certain areas eventually got so much hot slag dropped on them that they charred through, but never had a flame last beyond the initial few seconds of contact. Stuart ------------------------------ Message-ID: <45D1001D.4040002 [at] fuse.net> Date: Mon, 12 Feb 2007 19:02:37 -0500 From: Stuart Wheaton Reply-To: sdwheaton [at] fuse.net Subject: Re: Lumber References: In-Reply-To: Josh Ratty wrote: > > Hmmmm... Just like working on my Jeep. Never sure if that next fastener > I reach for is gonna be metric or not. The time wasted is indeed > measurable. > I had a '66 Volvo sedan, 1/2 metric 1/2 imperial, and once in a while, just to make things really fun, Whitworth! Stuart ------------------------------ From: Subject: Re: Re: Lumber Date: Mon, 12 Feb 2007 23:50:21 +0000 Message-Id: <20070212235021.BDQH29112.aamtaout04-winn.ispmail.ntl.com [at] smtp.ntlworld.com> > > From: Josh Ratty > Date: 2007/02/12 Mon PM 11:21:40 GMT > To: "Stagecraft" > Subject: Re: Lumber > > For info, archives & UNSUBSCRIBE, see > --------------------------------------------------- > Hmmmm... Just like working on my Jeep. Never sure if that next fastener > I reach for is gonna be metric or not. The time wasted is indeed > measurable. Too right. I, too, lived through the imperial/metric transition. Lanterns used to attach to their clamps with 3/8" Whitworth bolts. Nowadays, M8 is the rule. The two are near enough in size that you can engage the threads, and a gorilla with a big wrench can probably screw it home. The trouble is that the said gorilla is never around at a get-out. I actually took the trouble to buy a nut-splitter. Both the nut and the bolt are irrevocably ruined, but at least you can get the damned thing apart. Frank Wood ----------------------------------------- Email sent from www.virginmedia.com/email Virus-checked using McAfee(R) Software and scanned for spam ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 12 Feb 2007 15:52:20 -0800 (PST) From: Charlie Richmond Cc: josh.ratty [at] verizon.net Subject: Re: Lumber In-Reply-To: Message-ID: References: On Mon, 12 Feb 2007, Josh Ratty wrote: > And that was the impression I was under until I had to remove my > exploded transfer case from my transmission. 9/16" there. I feel like Hmmmmm.... maybe the transfer case is a third party unit... ?? C ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 12 Feb 2007 15:53:56 -0800 (PST) From: Charlie Richmond Cc: sdwheaton [at] fuse.net Subject: Re: Lumber In-Reply-To: Message-ID: References: On Mon, 12 Feb 2007, Stuart Wheaton wrote: > I had a '66 Volvo sedan, 1/2 metric 1/2 imperial, and once in a while, just > to make things really fun, Whitworth! Yes, Volvo's used a lot of English parts earlier on and the engines were largely British into the 70s. The carburetors were especially fun ;-) C ------------------------------ From: Subject: Re: Re: Welder Suggestions Date: Mon, 12 Feb 2007 23:56:08 +0000 Message-Id: <20070212235608.BEML29112.aamtaout04-winn.ispmail.ntl.com [at] smtp.ntlworld.com> > > From: Stuart Wheaton > Date: 2007/02/12 Mon PM 11:59:44 GMT > To: "Stagecraft" > Subject: Re: Welder Suggestions > > For info, archives & UNSUBSCRIBE, see > --------------------------------------------------- > Trust me Frank, I welded more aluminum between 6 and 8 AM today than you > have in your 60+ years. The Aluminum absorbs the heat as fast as the > machine can dump it in. With a steel structure, you can grab a few > inches from the welds and move the piece soon after welding, with > aluminum, the whole area around the joint becomes too hot to handle VERY > quickly. For equivalent sections of Aluminum and steel, the steel will > be 2 heat settings lower and 30-50 % lower wire feed. If I forget to > switch the settings, the steel disappears instantly, or the aluminum > pops and globs and just laughs at me. I do. As I said, it is the thermal conductivity. I have run into similar problems in electronics work. > > As far as your floor, one of the hardest things to set fire to is a flat > plane. When you light a campfire you won't hold the match to the side > of a log, you hold it to a fuzz of kindling. Fire needs lots of surface > area to get a good hold. My welding table has a layer of sacrificial > lauan under the grid to keep spatter off the stuff stored below it. In > 8 years of welding on it, I have never had a sustained flame on the > table surface. Certain areas eventually got so much hot slag dropped on > them that they charred through, but never had a flame last beyond the > initial few seconds of contact. > > Stuart > Frank Wood ----------------------------------------- Email sent from www.virginmedia.com/email Virus-checked using McAfee(R) Software and scanned for spam ------------------------------ From: Subject: Re: Re: Lumber Date: Mon, 12 Feb 2007 23:59:18 +0000 Message-Id: <20070212235918.IXGZ219.aamtaout01-winn.ispmail.ntl.com [at] smtp.ntlworld.com> > > From: Stuart Wheaton > Date: 2007/02/13 Tue AM 12:02:37 GMT > To: "Stagecraft" > Subject: Re: Lumber > > For info, archives & UNSUBSCRIBE, see > --------------------------------------------------- > I had a '66 Volvo sedan, 1/2 metric 1/2 imperial, and once in a while, > just to make things really fun, Whitworth! And Joseph Whitworth was the man who first had the idea of stantardising screw threads. Frank Wood ----------------------------------------- Email sent from www.virginmedia.com/email Virus-checked using McAfee(R) Software and scanned for spam ------------------------------ From: Subject: Re: Re: Lumber Date: Tue, 13 Feb 2007 0:01:54 +0000 Message-Id: <20070213000154.IXWF219.aamtaout01-winn.ispmail.ntl.com [at] smtp.ntlworld.com> > > From: Charlie Richmond > Date: 2007/02/12 Mon PM 11:53:56 GMT > To: "Stagecraft" > CC: sdwheaton [at] fuse.net > Subject: Re: Lumber > > For info, archives & UNSUBSCRIBE, see > --------------------------------------------------- > > On Mon, 12 Feb 2007, Stuart Wheaton wrote: > > > I had a '66 Volvo sedan, 1/2 metric 1/2 imperial, and once in a while, just > > to make things really fun, Whitworth! > > Yes, Volvo's used a lot of English parts earlier on and the engines were largely > British into the 70s. The carburetors were especially fun ;-) For interest, what sort? I have sworn great oaths at most makes. Frank Wood ----------------------------------------- Email sent from www.virginmedia.com/email Virus-checked using McAfee(R) Software and scanned for spam ------------------------------ From: propguy1 [at] att.net Subject: Smoking rc car Date: Tue, 13 Feb 2007 00:02:08 +0000 Message-Id: <021320070002.16764.45D0FFFF000B94F80000417C2160466648979A099F019D9F [at] att.net> OK so my director wants to have an 1/18 scale RC Truck smoke on stage. I have a really cool truck now but would like to add a small fogging unit to it. My first thought was to get an exisitng from the model train industry but I am know that it won't be enough fog/smoke for the show. The ideal from the director would be that the truck drives on stage and then starts to smoke. a few minutes later they then carry it off so pyro would be bad due to the heat and plastic parts of the truck and flesh of the actor. My other idea was to use a glow plug from a nitro rc car in an aluminum box with glycol fog juice wired off of the truck's battery with a hole for the smoke to come out of. I am open for any ideas. Thanks for the input. Mickey -- Brent"Mickey" Henry Technical Director UofMN-TC If we couldn't laugh we would all go insane- Jimmy Buffett ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 12 Feb 2007 16:12:10 -0800 (PST) From: Charlie Richmond Subject: Re: Lumber In-Reply-To: Message-ID: References: On Tue, 13 Feb 2007, frank.wood95 [at] ntlworld.com wrote: > For interest, what sort? I have sworn great oaths at most makes. Volvos have used a variety, including Stromberg-Carlson and Solex but the really tricky ones are the SUs which have to be balanced and lubricated regularly (like the 3 that were on my Jag Mark 10). If they had just used the best ones (Weber, like the Citroens, Renaults and most Italian vehicles) it would have been a lot easier .... C ------------------------------ From: MissWisc [at] aol.com Message-ID: Date: Mon, 12 Feb 2007 19:16:52 EST Subject: Cirque's Delirium Has anyone done Cirque's "Delirium" arena show? The web site says 20 semis and technicians... does that include local crew? Kristi ------------------------------ In-Reply-To: References: Message-Id: <796A9DE6-AC16-4F21-A415-F3E70564B442 [at] gmail.com> From: Andrew Vance Subject: Re: Cirque's Delirium Date: Mon, 12 Feb 2007 19:25:19 -0500 On 12 Feb, 2007, at 19:16 , MissWisc [at] aol.com wrote: > Has anyone done Cirque's "Delirium" arena show? The web site says > 20 semis > and technicians... does that include local crew? It came through Omaha in November, but I wasn't in town. I'll e-mail some folks back there and see if you'd like. -- Sincerely, Andrew Vance Lighting Designer atvanceld [at] gmail.com ------------------------------ Subject: RE: Smoking rc car Date: Mon, 12 Feb 2007 19:34:21 -0500 Message-ID: In-Reply-To: References: From: "Michael Diederich" There is a "Tiny Fogger" that is out there. Tiny Fogger The tiniest fog machine we've ever seen! Measures just 4" x 1.3" x 2", weighs only 10 oz. (excluding fluid and battery). Cool enough to hold in your hand, the Tiny Fogger is ideal for use in costumes. Included battery operates for 10 minutes for full charge. With optional AC power adapter and digital timer, the Tiny fogger is perfect for stand-alone displays; just turn it on each day and make sure there's fluid. Instant warm-up, continuous output, microprocessor control, simple controls. Package includes: Tiny Fogger, wired remote, rechargeable battery, battery charger, 8 oz. Tiny fluid, carrying case. Options: Radio remote, AC power supply, ducting adapter, DMX interface, digital timer interface. They are pretty expensive though.=20 Michael Diederich Theater Techncial Asst. Mohawk Valley Community College 1101 Sherman Dr. Utica, NY 13501 (315) 731-5757 -----Original Message----- From: Stagecraft [mailto:stagecraft [at] theatrical.net] On Behalf Of propguy1 [at] att.net Sent: Monday, February 12, 2007 7:02 PM To: Stagecraft Subject: Smoking rc car For info, archives & UNSUBSCRIBE, see --------------------------------------------------- OK so my director wants to have an 1/18 scale RC Truck smoke on stage. I have a really cool truck now but would like to add a small fogging unit to it. My first thought was to get an exisitng from the model train industry but I am know that it won't be enough fog/smoke for the show. The ideal from the director would be that the truck drives on stage and then starts to smoke. a few minutes later they then carry it off so pyro would be bad due to the heat and plastic parts of the truck and flesh of the actor. My other idea was to use a glow plug from a nitro rc car in an aluminum box with glycol fog juice wired off of the truck's battery with a hole for the smoke to come out of.=20 I am open for any ideas. Thanks for the input. Mickey -- Brent"Mickey" Henry Technical Director UofMN-TC If we couldn't laugh we would all go insane- Jimmy Buffett ------------------------------ Message-ID: Date: Mon, 12 Feb 2007 19:35:44 -0500 From: "Paul Schreiner" Subject: Re: Lumber In-Reply-To: References: Okay, before we get toooooo far down the automotive repair avenue... I just measured a bunch of 2x4 that I am planning to use for some furniture framing on our (my! as in, my design!) next set. Instead of the 3.5" I expected width-wise, it was only 3-3/8. Maybe a hair or two over (not quite 3/4 shoshe). It makes a difference when one is pondering the man-hours required to veneer the face when the veneer comes in 10" strips. Assuming, of course, that that's 10 actual inches and not some random metric approximation of 10". But anyway, this is another one of those Recurring Threads, and I see we are about due for another collective bitch session about lumber quality...anybody need a hockey stick? ------------------------------ Message-ID: Date: Mon, 12 Feb 2007 19:37:26 -0500 From: "Paul Schreiner" Subject: Re: Smoking rc car In-Reply-To: References: > Tiny Fogger is ideal for use in costumes. For when you have that show where you wanna see the character poot for comedic effect... ------------------------------ Message-ID: <51FHRLNpkQ0FFwKX [at] ntlworld.com> Date: Tue, 13 Feb 2007 00:41:13 +0000 From: Clive Mitchell Subject: Re: Welder Suggestions References: In-Reply-To: In message , SS writes >As it were, we may be in the market for some new gear. Specifically we >are seeking to pick up a new MIG welder. Anyone had much experience with the lightweight "inverter" welders that are basically a high current switch mode power supply? I'm guessing they are more likely to fail than a traditional welder, but then, with modern component robustness I may be wrong. -- Clive Mitchell http://www.bigclive.com ------------------------------ Message-ID: Date: Mon, 12 Feb 2007 19:57:25 -0500 From: "Paul Schreiner" Subject: Re: Welder Suggestions In-Reply-To: References: While we're discussing welding, how 'bout cluing some of us in to the differences in equipment and techniques between steel and aluminum? I've never tried Al before, and was wondering what it'd take for me to be able to give it a whirl... ------------------------------ End of Stagecraft Digest #1138 ******************************