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Subject: Stagecraft Digest #8
Date: Sun, 16 May 2004 03:00:42 -0700
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For info on subscribing, unsubscribing, and suspending
your list subscription, go to the Stagecraft web site at:
   http://stagecraft.theprices.net/
---------------------------------------------------

Stagecraft Digest, Issue #8

 1. Re: AutoCad LT
    by usctd [at] columbia.sc
 2. Re: AutoCad LT
    by Noah Price <stagecraft-web [at] theprices.net>
 3. Re: OT (was RE: Wal*Mart (NOT off topic))
    by Scott Spidell <sspidell [at] uwaterloo.ca>
 4. Re: Stagehand falls to his death
    by "Mike Marriott" <mike.stagelist [at] optusnet.com.au>
 5. Re: Learning AutoCAD
    by Loren Schreiber <lschreib [at] mail.sdsu.edu>
 6. repainting a muslin backdrop
    by "neesa" <neesa [at] neesahart.com>
 7. Re: Neccesities
    by Bruce Purdy <bpurdy [at] rochester.rr.com>
 8. Re: repainting a muslin backdrop
    by "Joe Meils" <bipolarber [at] cyberback.com>
 9. Re: repainting a muslin backdrop
    by Steve Larson <tiptd [at] theatreinthepark.com>
10. Re: repainting a muslin backdrop
    by "Jon Ares" <jonares [at] hevanet.com>
11. Re: repainting a muslin backdrop
    by "Joe Meils" <bipolarber [at] cyberback.com>
12. Re: dance floor - help me find the info!
    by "Stephen E. Rees" <Rees [at] fredonia.edu>
13. Re: repainting a muslin backdrop
    by Steve Larson <tiptd [at] theatreinthepark.com>
14. Re: Neccesities
    by "Tony Deeming" <deeming.tony [at] btinternet.com>
15. Re: repainting a muslin backdrop
    by "Joe Meils" <bipolarber [at] cyberback.com>
16. Re: repainting a muslin backdrop
    by Steve Larson <tiptd [at] theatreinthepark.com>
17. What happened to USITT?
    by Jerry Durand <jdurand [at] interstellar.com>

*** Please update the subject line of your reply to use the subject
*** line of the message you are replying to! Please only reply to
*** one message subject in each reply.

----------------------------------------------------------------------

Message-ID: <4483.207.201.197.39.1084622917.squirrel [at] webmail.columbia.sc>
In-Reply-To: <list-3412127 [at] prxy.net>
References: <list-3412127 [at] prxy.net>
Date: Sat, 15 May 2004 08:08:37 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: Re: AutoCad LT
From: usctd [at] columbia.sc
User-Agent: SquirrelMail/1.4.1

I would recommend Omura's book.  It is big, but if you commit to going
from start to finish you WILL know the program.  The only issue with the
book is that it is geared for architects.  I have been using Autocad since
97 and I still refer to this book.

I am doing the opposite, as I will be teaching CAD next semester with
Vector Works.  Never used it before.  Anyone know of any good books?

Glad to have the list back.
-- 
Eric Rouse
TD-University of SC, Columbia
Freelance Foyboy

> For info on subscribing, unsubscribing, and suspending
> your list subscription, go to the Stagecraft web site at:
>    http://stagecraft.theprices.net/
> ---------------------------------------------------
>
>
> I have heard that going for Vectorworks to AutoCAD is harder that going
> form
> AutoCAD to Vectorworks. I currently use AutoCAD 2004 but I learned on
> AutoCAD2002. The best adivice I can give you is to buy one of the books
> like
> AutoCAD2002 and learn all the commands.  There is also a book out there
> for
> theatre use of CAD.  I have been told the best way to learn CAD is to
> learn
> the commands and mess around with the program.  Good Luck.
> erika
>
>
>>From: Chip Haas <chaas [at] bsu.edu>
>>Reply-To: "Stagecraft" <stagecraft [at] theatrical.net>
>>To: "Stagecraft" <stagecraft [at] theatrical.net>
>>Subject: AutoCad LT
>>Date: Fri, 14 May 2004 15:42:05 -0500
>>
>>For info on subscribing, unsubscribing, and suspending
>>your list subscription, go to the Stagecraft web site at:
>>   http://stagecraft.theprices.net/
>>---------------------------------------------------
>>
>>
>>Hey there everyone, it sure is great to have the list back.
>>
>>I will be moving this fall to join the faculty at the University of North
>>Carolina Greensboro and I have a slight problem.  They use AutoCad there
>>and I've only used MacDraft and Vectorworks.  So I'm now trying to learn
>>AutoCad as a summer project.  Anyway, they've shipped me an old computer
>>(okay, not old, but spare) that has AutoCad on it.  Do any of y'all have
>>any suggestions for a Learning AutoCad LT for Dummies book or CD
>> tutorials?
>>  I'm pretty proficient with the two programs I know, so I'm reasonably
>>confident that I can get up to speed with AutoCad.
>>
>>On a sidenote, if there are any TD's out there looking for an excellent
>>opportunity, keep your eyes peeled for the announcement here at Ball
>> State
>>sometime in the fall.  This has been an excellent place to work with top
>>notch faculty and students.  If Muncie just wasn't 12 hours away from the
>>grandparents, I would have stayed here forever (I would like to think).
>>However the chance to be less than an hour away from one set and 4 hours
>>from the other was too much to pass up.
>>
>>
>>Chip Haas
>>Technical Director / Assistant Professor of Theatre
>>Department of Theatre and Dance
>>Ball State University
>>Muncie, IN  47306
>>
>>765-285-0978
>>
>>chaas [at] bsu.edu
>>
>
> _________________________________________________________________
> Is your PC infected? Get a FREE online computer virus scan from McAfeeŽ
> Security. http://clinic.mcafee.com/clinic/ibuy/campaign.asp?cid=3963
>
>


------------------------------

In-Reply-To: <list-3412127 [at] prxy.net>
References: <list-3412127 [at] prxy.net>
Message-Id: <CEC5038C-A670-11D8-9AB1-000A958ABBF8 [at] theprices.net>
From: Noah Price <stagecraft-web [at] theprices.net>
Subject: Re: AutoCad LT
Date: Sat, 15 May 2004 06:07:24 -0700
X-Mailer: Apple Mail (2.613)

On May 14, 2004, at 10:05 PM, Erika Smock wrote:

> I have heard that going for Vectorworks to AutoCAD is harder that 
> going form AutoCAD to Vectorworks.

I think it's safe to say going from anything to AutoCAD is harder than 
going from anything to VectorWorks... :-)


On May 15, 2004, at 5:08 AM, usctd [at] columbia.sc wrote:

> I am doing the opposite, as I will be teaching CAD next semester with
> Vector Works.  Never used it before.  Anyone know of any good books?

Nemetschek lists a lot of training info on their site, including 
manuals and CDs:
<http://www.nemetschek.net/training/>

I used one of Janis Kent's "Works" books a while ago and it was very 
useful. Unfortunately it looks like she shopped at version 8 or 9, and 
Nemetschek is just up to version 11 now. She does have a book 
specifically for teachers for version 9.
<http://www.improbability.com/navigate/indexbooks.html>

There's a newer book out from Peachpit, but I'm not familiar with it:
<http://www.peachpit.com/title/0321159446>

And the only version 11 book I've heard about yet, by Archoncad:
<https://vesta.safe-order.net/archoncad/manuals.php>


If you're teaching CAD for lighting, I highly recommend the VectorWorks 
Spotlight package. Kevin Moore and Kacy Fisher were involved with 
Spotlight (Product Manager and QA respectively) and have been active on 
this list in the past... reminds me I should drop them a note with the 
new list info.

There's also a lighting add on by Sam Jones (also active on this list!) 
called "AutoPlotVW" which I've heard very good things about but haven't 
used myself.
<http://www.autoplotvw.com/>

And while we're on the topic, here are lighting symbols for VectorWorks 
by Steve Shelley:
<http://www.fieldtemplate.com/soft/softcopy.html>

Noah

-- 
| Noah Price              | http://stagecraft.theprices.net/           |
| Stagecraft Mailing List | Web issues:  stagecraft-web [at] theprices.net  |
| Web site administrator  | Personal:    noah [at] theprices.net            |


------------------------------

Message-Id: <6.0.1.1.0.20040515090718.01af48b0 [at] watarts.uwaterloo.ca>
X-Mailer: QUALCOMM Windows Eudora Version 6.0.1.1
Date: Sat, 15 May 2004 09:21:00 -0400
From: Scott Spidell <sspidell [at] uwaterloo.ca>
Subject: Re: OT (was RE: Wal*Mart (NOT off topic))
In-Reply-To: <list-3420674 [at] prxy.net>
References: <list-3420674 [at] prxy.net>

Hey kids, guess what? That Walmart discussion was right-on-topic. We have 
the beast up here in Canada for 4-5 years now (so it's an international 
story), and I tell my students not to shop there for show props or costume 
bits if they get sent out for something. People who believe that spending 
less for a product does the show good, often forget about their neighbours 
who also have to make a living.
For a year and a bit, I used to be a salesman - when you skin the price 
down from the mom & pop shop, they can't afford supply the service that 
made you go to them in the first place. This goes for all your suppliers. 
Shop local darn it!
Was that a rant?
Scott

Scott Spidell
Technical Director
University of Waterloo
Department of Drama and Speech Communications
drama.uwaterloo.ca  



------------------------------

From: "Mike Marriott" <mike.stagelist [at] optusnet.com.au>
Subject: Re: Stagehand falls to his death
Date: Sat, 15 May 2004 23:39:54 +0930
Message-ID: <KBEDLCMKFDJEPHKHCOHIOEEFCBAA.mike.stagelist [at] optusnet.com.au>
X-Mailer: Microsoft Outlook IMO, Build 9.0.2416 (9.0.2910.0)
In-Reply-To: <list-3395305 [at] prxy.net>

Hello All,

Just wondering if regulations in place would allow any person climbing a ladder
not to have to ware a harness ?

The reason I ask, is I went to a circus today; at the begginging a child was
not more than about 3m (9ft 10in), and he was waring a fall arrest device, yet
when performers were around 9m (29ft 6in) of the ground they could walk and
climb freely around the rig. I though of this question as soon as I saw them
climb the wire rope ladder.

NB: they did have a net installed below, but it would not have caught them if
the fell from the ladder.

Kind Regards
Mike Marriott


-----Original Message-----
From: Stagecraft [mailto:stagecraft [at] theatrical.net]On Behalf Of Delbert
Hall
Sent: Thursday, May 13, 2004 2:30 AM
To: Stagecraft
Subject: Stagehand falls to his death

From USA Today

"A stagehand working on a David Bowie concert in Miami died after a fall
on Thursday.  Wally Thomas, 44, was climbing a ladder at the James L.
Knight Center when he lost his grip and fell 50 feet to his death.
Emergency personnel tried to revive him, but he was pronounced dead
after being taken to the hospital.  The concert was canceled and will
not be rescheduled."


Anyone know any more about this accident?

-Delbert


------------------------------

Message-Id: <5.2.0.9.2.20040515071550.028afba0 [at] mail.sdsu.edu>
X-Mailer: QUALCOMM Windows Eudora Version 5.2.0.9
Date: Sat, 15 May 2004 07:20:53 -0700
From: Loren Schreiber <lschreib [at] mail.sdsu.edu>
Subject: Re: Learning AutoCAD
In-Reply-To: <list-3420674 [at] prxy.net>

The very best book I've found for learning AutoCAD is David Frey's "AutoCAD 
2004 and AutoCAD LT 2004: No Experience Required".
I've looked at dozens of books for learning the program, including those 
specifically targeting theatre, and this one is the best for self-teaching. 
There are versions of same book for earlier versions of AutoCAD as well. 
You can't go wrong with this one. I've used this in my classes for the last 
4 years and my students concur.


Loren Schreiber
Director of Technology and Production
School of Theatre, Television and Film
San Diego State University
http://www-rohan.sdsu.edu/faculty/schreibr/index.html



------------------------------

Message-Id: <200405151649.i4FGnPm15974 [at] mail-relay.genericdns.com>
From: "neesa" <neesa [at] neesahart.com>
Subject: repainting a muslin backdrop
Date: Sat, 15 May 2004 12:49:23 -0400
X-Mailer: Microsoft Office Outlook, Build 11.0.5510
In-Reply-To: <list-3420674 [at] prxy.net>

I'm so glad the list came back.  I've been trying to post this question for
over a month.

Someone has given our church 2 50' muslin backdrops complete with tie lines
and chain pockets -- for which we're grateful!  One has a giant clown face
in the center of it, which we feel we PROBABLY won't have much use for, so
we're planning to repaint it.  

My question is about paint.  I've always painted hard flats, never a soft
surface, and anything we did was not intended to be used again.  We made do
with $5.00 discount paint at Home Depot.  This drop, however, we anticipate
sending on tour with our traveling children's arts ministry, so I'm weighing
all the pros and cons of scenic paint.

Never having used scenic paint, and never having painted a fabric drop, I'm
looking for a little advice:

Do we need to condition or paint over the existing drop first (the design
we're putting on is MUCH darker)?

If we use scenic paint, will OFF BROADWAY work OK, or is there a definite
advantage to Iddings or Ultra Concentrated?

The ROSCO site says to expect 300 sq. feet of coverage -- but is that pre or
post dilution?

And is it best to dilute to a watery, dye-type consistency to maintain the
foldability of the drop?

I'd appreciate whatever advice anyone wants to toss out.  Thanks so much

Still in One Peace

Neesa Hart


------------------------------

User-Agent: Microsoft-Outlook-Express-Macintosh-Edition/5.0.6
Date: Sat, 15 May 2004 13:23:26 -0400
Subject: Re: Neccesities
From: Bruce Purdy <bpurdy [at] rochester.rr.com>
Message-ID: <BCCBCA4D.34FA%bpurdy [at] rochester.rr.com>
In-Reply-To: <list-3420674 [at] prxy.net>

>>Back to my original point, if you think you can't live without your cell
>>phone - that it's a necessity for your survival, it's time to re-evaluate
>>your life. It can certainly be a convenience, but don't let it become more
>>than that.

 > I offered the opinion that this is a direct result of the speed and
quantity
> of information that can pass through the production. More people are needed
> in specific positions to handle all the information.  Can we do the same
> work without all the these people and new devices?
> 
> Mostly... but slower.

    As I said, I'm not completely *opposed* to modern technology like cell
phones (Although I don't think every 14 year old in the mall needs one to
gab on). It's the attitude that you can't live without it that bothers me.

    We were talking about the idea of blocking signals inside the theatre.
Some people seemed to feel that some folks must never be denied access to
their cell phone even whilst they sit and watch a show.

Bruce
-- 
Bruce Purdy
Technical Director
Smith Opera House



------------------------------

Message-ID: <000b01c43aab$ca907560$38ecbed0 [at] hppav>
From: "Joe Meils" <bipolarber [at] cyberback.com>
References: <list-3421976 [at] prxy.net>
Subject: Re: repainting a muslin backdrop
Date: Sat, 15 May 2004 13:38:17 -0500
X-Mailer: Microsoft Outlook Express 5.50.4133.2400

Neesa,

    What follows is just my opinion, so take it all with a grain of salt. We
teach "traditional" theatre here at UCA, and as such we do quite a few
"soft" flats in our productions. More to the point, we also use muslin for
floor cloths, which often have to be folded for transport.


> My question is about paint.  I've always painted hard flats, never a soft
> surface, and anything we did was not intended to be used again.  >
> Do we need to condition or paint over the existing drop first (the design
> we're putting on is MUCH darker)?

    First of all, what was the original clown face painted in? If you are
painting atop latex or acrylic flat paint, you are probably going to be okay
just painting on top of it with no primers. If it's got a gloss finish, you
might have to go over it with some Kilz primer, or some other primer that
your local paint store could recomend.
>
> If we use scenic paint, will OFF BROADWAY work OK, or is there a definite
> advantage to Iddings or Ultra Concentrated?

    The advantages to concentrated paint is that you can control the density
of the paint. So if you do have a spot  where the original backround begins
to peek through, you can make some denser paint to cover. The other
advantage seems to be that with concentrate, the colors are much more
intense. However, if you are trying to create something a bit more pastel,
say, a landscape that seems a bit hazy for aireal perspective, this
advantage is not worth the extra expense.
>
> The ROSCO site says to expect 300 sq. feet of coverage -- but is that pre
or
> post dilution?

Post.
>
> And is it best to dilute to a watery, dye-type consistency to maintain the
> foldability of the drop?

No. Latex paint remains pretty flexible if you dilute it to standard "milk"
consistency. If you dilute to the point of being like a dye, it may not
cover the original painting.
>
> I'd appreciate whatever advice anyone wants to toss out.  Thanks so much

Personally, I'm a bit envious. I've been wanting to do a huge drop like this
for ages. It's too bad that doing scenic painting on this scale is something
of a lost art. I fell in love with the technique when watching MGM
spectaculars like Forbidden Planet, and Wizard of Oz.
     How will you be painting these? Lay them out on the floor, and then
paint them according to a grid? Or, will you somehow mount them on a batten
and paint them as they are moved incrementally upward?
    I was at a theatre in Denver which was being torn down, (Elitch Gardens)
and I was amazed by their easel for this kind of painting. It was 20' high,
and could sink 12' into their pit, allowing for a relatively comfortable
work experience.


Joe
UCA
Conway, Arkansas


------------------------------

User-Agent: Microsoft-Outlook-Express-Macintosh-Edition/5.02.2022
Date: Sat, 15 May 2004 13:57:37 -0400
Subject: Re: repainting a muslin backdrop
From: Steve Larson <tiptd [at] theatreinthepark.com>
Message-ID: <BCCBD251.3EFC%tiptd [at] theatreinthepark.com>
In-Reply-To: <list-3422180 [at] prxy.net>

Be sure that you can staple the drop down.  Align either top or
bottom with a chalked line and then parallel the other side.
In all likelihood, it will shrink.  Without staples, it may
shrink to the point the top and bottom edges are not parallel.
Try to level it out once it's up and you'll probably commit
suicide before you achieve it.

Base coat it, cartoon it, and do your final paint.

I once painted a large drop in a parking lot.  Created a frame
the size of the drop and stapled the drop to the frame.  I did
not have access to a space large enough due to scheduling
conflicts.  We base coated and cartooned one day and painted
the finish design in 18 hours the next day with six painters.
Had to set up lights to finish in the dark.  Someone guarded
the drop overnight and we took it up the next morning.  Allow
thorough drying time before taking it up.

Steve

on 5/15/04 2:38 PM, Joe Meils at bipolarber [at] cyberback.com wrote:

> For info on subscribing, unsubscribing, and suspending
> your list subscription, go to the Stagecraft web site at:
> http://stagecraft.theprices.net/
> ---------------------------------------------------
> 
> 
> Neesa,
> 
> What follows is just my opinion, so take it all with a grain of salt. We
> teach "traditional" theatre here at UCA, and as such we do quite a few
> "soft" flats in our productions. More to the point, we also use muslin for
> floor cloths, which often have to be folded for transport.
> 
> 
>> My question is about paint.  I've always painted hard flats, never a soft
>> surface, and anything we did was not intended to be used again.  >
>> Do we need to condition or paint over the existing drop first (the design
>> we're putting on is MUCH darker)?
> 
> First of all, what was the original clown face painted in? If you are
> painting atop latex or acrylic flat paint, you are probably going to be okay
> just painting on top of it with no primers. If it's got a gloss finish, you
> might have to go over it with some Kilz primer, or some other primer that
> your local paint store could recomend.
>> 
>> If we use scenic paint, will OFF BROADWAY work OK, or is there a definite
>> advantage to Iddings or Ultra Concentrated?
> 
> The advantages to concentrated paint is that you can control the density
> of the paint. So if you do have a spot  where the original backround begins
> to peek through, you can make some denser paint to cover. The other
> advantage seems to be that with concentrate, the colors are much more
> intense. However, if you are trying to create something a bit more pastel,
> say, a landscape that seems a bit hazy for aireal perspective, this
> advantage is not worth the extra expense.
>> 
>> The ROSCO site says to expect 300 sq. feet of coverage -- but is that pre
> or
>> post dilution?
> 
> Post.
>> 
>> And is it best to dilute to a watery, dye-type consistency to maintain the
>> foldability of the drop?
> 
> No. Latex paint remains pretty flexible if you dilute it to standard "milk"
> consistency. If you dilute to the point of being like a dye, it may not
> cover the original painting.
>> 
>> I'd appreciate whatever advice anyone wants to toss out.  Thanks so much
> 
> Personally, I'm a bit envious. I've been wanting to do a huge drop like this
> for ages. It's too bad that doing scenic painting on this scale is something
> of a lost art. I fell in love with the technique when watching MGM
> spectaculars like Forbidden Planet, and Wizard of Oz.
> How will you be painting these? Lay them out on the floor, and then
> paint them according to a grid? Or, will you somehow mount them on a batten
> and paint them as they are moved incrementally upward?
> I was at a theatre in Denver which was being torn down, (Elitch Gardens)
> and I was amazed by their easel for this kind of painting. It was 20' high,
> and could sink 12' into their pit, allowing for a relatively comfortable
> work experience.
> 
> 
> Joe
> UCA
> Conway, Arkansas
> 
> 
> 


------------------------------

Message-ID: <002e01c43aa7$fa2c4050$0201a8c0 [at] BRUTUS>
From: "Jon Ares" <jonares [at] hevanet.com>
References: <list-3422265 [at] prxy.net>
Subject: Re: repainting a muslin backdrop
Date: Sat, 15 May 2004 11:10:59 -0700
X-Mailer: Microsoft Outlook Express 6.00.2800.1409

> I once painted a large drop in a parking lot.  Created a frame
> the size of the drop and stapled the drop to the frame.

<anecdote>
I once designed a production of Oz at a regional, and designed a giant
'sepia' groundcloth to cover the stage for the top of the show.... had it
painted in a big parking lot.  The scenic artists got it done in one day.
The biggest issue was keeping their paint area wet enough - it was well over
90 degrees F that day - lots and lots of water - for the paints, cloth, and
artists.  (Sunburn cream extra.)
</anecdote>

 -- Jon Ares
www.hevanet.com/acreative


------------------------------

Message-ID: <000b01c43ab7$de0f7e40$76ecbed0 [at] hppav>
From: "Joe Meils" <bipolarber [at] cyberback.com>
References: <list-3422265 [at] prxy.net>
Subject: Re: repainting a muslin backdrop
Date: Sat, 15 May 2004 15:04:44 -0500
X-Mailer: Microsoft Outlook Express 5.50.4133.2400


> In all likelihood, it will shrink.  Without staples, it may
> shrink to the point the top and bottom edges are not parallel.

Steve,

Actually, if the drop has been pre-painted, it won't shrink much at all. The
first painting, when it dried, acted as a sizing, and pre-shrunk the
material.

Joe
UCA
Conway, Arkansas


------------------------------

Message-ID: <40A68556.5070007 [at] fredonia.edu>
Date: Sat, 15 May 2004 17:02:14 -0400
From: "Stephen E. Rees" <Rees [at] fredonia.edu>
User-Agent: Mozilla/5.0 (Windows; U; Windows NT 5.0; en-US; rv:1.0.2) Gecko/20021120 Netscape/7.01
Subject: Re: dance floor - help me find the info!
References: <list-3410026 [at] prxy.net>

Kevin,
That may have been me describing a method of reducing sound of footfalls 
on a platform.  I used 3/8" "fanfold" blue insulation sheathing under 
1/2" MDF which worked pretty well for the sound thing.  You might want 
5/8" or 3/4 over that for danceing not just walking but it might well 
work.  I do suspect that you need to lay down Marley or whatever on top 
as well.  Good luck.
Steve Rees
SUNY-Fredonia
Waiting for commencement to end so I can strike lights :)
S


> Does anyone have in their personal archives of this list information about
> an inexpensive dance floor solution that used blue foam sheets [snipped]


------------------------------

User-Agent: Microsoft-Outlook-Express-Macintosh-Edition/5.02.2022
Date: Sat, 15 May 2004 17:47:37 -0400
Subject: Re: repainting a muslin backdrop
From: Steve Larson <tiptd [at] theatreinthepark.com>
Message-ID: <BCCC0839.3F01%tiptd [at] theatreinthepark.com>
In-Reply-To: <list-3422773 [at] prxy.net>

That's true, but I've found that there is always
a little shrinkage up to about 5 coats.  I've
worked in some situations where we used them
till they cracked.  Low budget, you know.

Steve

on 5/15/04 4:04 PM, Joe Meils at bipolarber [at] cyberback.com wrote:

> For info on subscribing, unsubscribing, and suspending
> your list subscription, go to the Stagecraft web site at:
> http://stagecraft.theprices.net/
> ---------------------------------------------------
> 
> 
> 
>> In all likelihood, it will shrink.  Without staples, it may
>> shrink to the point the top and bottom edges are not parallel.
> 
> Steve,
> 
> Actually, if the drop has been pre-painted, it won't shrink much at all. The
> first painting, when it dried, acted as a sizing, and pre-shrunk the
> material.
> 
> Joe
> UCA
> Conway, Arkansas
> 
> 
> 


------------------------------

Message-ID: <008501c43ad4$bdcb1fa0$0a01a8c0 [at] Tony>
From: "Tony Deeming" <deeming.tony [at] btinternet.com>
References: <list-3422109 [at] prxy.net>
Subject: Re: Neccesities
Date: Sun, 16 May 2004 00:31:26 +0100
X-Mailer: Microsoft Outlook Express 6.00.2800.1409


----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Bruce Purdy" <bpurdy [at] rochester.rr.com>
To: "Stagecraft" <stagecraft [at] theatrical.net>
Sent: Saturday, May 15, 2004 6:23 PM
Subject: Re: Neccesities


> For info on subscribing, unsubscribing, and suspending
> your list subscription, go to the Stagecraft web site at:
>    http://stagecraft.theprices.net/
> ---------------------------------------------------
>
>
> >>Back to my original point, if you think you can't live without your cell
> >>phone - that it's a necessity for your survival, it's time to
re-evaluate
> >>your life. It can certainly be a convenience, but don't let it become
more
> >>than that.
>
>  > I offered the opinion that this is a direct result of the speed and
> quantity
> > of information that can pass through the production. More people are
needed
> > in specific positions to handle all the information.  Can we do the same
> > work without all the these people and new devices?
> >
> > Mostly... but slower.
>
>     As I said, I'm not completely *opposed* to modern technology like cell
> phones (Although I don't think every 14 year old in the mall needs one to
> gab on). It's the attitude that you can't live without it that bothers me.
>
>     We were talking about the idea of blocking signals inside the theatre.
> Some people seemed to feel that some folks must never be denied access to
> their cell phone even whilst they sit and watch a show.
>

To be honest, I believe that most people that consciously decide that they
absolutely MUST leave their phone on in a theatre, come what may, are
labouring under the misapprehension that they're important enough to warrant
it! On the occasions that I've heard phones ring during a performance, I've
known several, not necessarily as friends, but known enough that they're
just 'Joe Bloggs' from across town, and there's no way they're availability
to the outside is indispensable. They just FEEL that they are!

It's just selfishness and rudeness, to be quit efrank.

Ynot



------------------------------

Message-ID: <000701c43add$551772c0$16ecbed0 [at] hppav>
From: "Joe Meils" <bipolarber [at] cyberback.com>
References: <list-3423125 [at] prxy.net>
Subject: Re: repainting a muslin backdrop
Date: Sat, 15 May 2004 19:32:55 -0500
X-Mailer: Microsoft Outlook Express 5.50.4133.2400

Steve,

    Well, that's interesting. I've never noticed any kind of shrinking after
the first coat.
    Also, getting back to tips and tricks for doing the repainting, I was
re-reading some of the info I have on the old MGM scenic department. One of
their tricks was to lower a batten down to 8ft or so, then mount the drop
onto it by sandwiching the muslin between two 1 X 3's. This would suppodrt
the cloth more evenly than if you just tied it on with grommets. Then,
they'd move a "rolling wall" behind the drop, and pushed up against it, so
that they would have a hard surface to paint against. You could probably do
the same thing by knocking together a couple of stock platforms.
    They would paint their way across, then raise the cloth to the next 8
feet, and repeat. This would go on three or four times before they would
have their 100' cycloramas done. They usually did this on any stage that was
available. When finished, stagehands would roll the whole thing up and walk
it like a millipede across the lot to whichever stage was in production.
    The thing I worry about more than crcaking with this repaint, is will
the wrinkles be visible? If you had a couple days to let it set, everything
would be fine... but if this is for a travelling show, how can you fold
without obvious creases?

Joe

----- Original Message -----
From: "Steve Larson" <tiptd [at] theatreinthepark.com>
To: "Stagecraft" <stagecraft [at] theatrical.net>
Sent: Saturday, May 15, 2004 4:47 PM
Subject: Re: repainting a muslin backdrop


> For info on subscribing, unsubscribing, and suspending
> your list subscription, go to the Stagecraft web site at:
>    http://stagecraft.theprices.net/
> ---------------------------------------------------
>
>
> That's true, but I've found that there is always
> a little shrinkage up to about 5 coats.  I've
> worked in some situations where we used them
> till they cracked.  Low budget, you know.
>
> Steve
>
> on 5/15/04 4:04 PM, Joe Meils at bipolarber [at] cyberback.com wrote:
>
> > For info on subscribing, unsubscribing, and suspending
> > your list subscription, go to the Stagecraft web site at:
> > http://stagecraft.theprices.net/
> > ---------------------------------------------------
> >
> >
> >
> >> In all likelihood, it will shrink.  Without staples, it may
> >> shrink to the point the top and bottom edges are not parallel.
> >
> > Steve,
> >
> > Actually, if the drop has been pre-painted, it won't shrink much at all.
The
> > first painting, when it dried, acted as a sizing, and pre-shrunk the
> > material.
> >
> > Joe
> > UCA
> > Conway, Arkansas
> >
> >
> >
>


------------------------------

User-Agent: Microsoft-Outlook-Express-Macintosh-Edition/5.02.2022
Date: Sat, 15 May 2004 21:01:58 -0400
Subject: Re: repainting a muslin backdrop
From: Steve Larson <tiptd [at] theatreinthepark.com>
Message-ID: <BCCC35C6.3F06%tiptd [at] theatreinthepark.com>
In-Reply-To: <list-3423663 [at] prxy.net>

I have rolled it around pvc (of course, size of drop and
length of pvc can be a problem) and in the old days you
could buy long lengths of stovepipe.  Roll drops roll
around a tube.  Where do these tubes come from?

Just bantering.

A hudson sprayer with warm water sprayed on the drop
after it is hung will take out some.

Steve

on 5/15/04 8:32 PM, Joe Meils at bipolarber [at] cyberback.com wrote:

> For info on subscribing, unsubscribing, and suspending
> your list subscription, go to the Stagecraft web site at:
> http://stagecraft.theprices.net/
> ---------------------------------------------------
> 
> 
> Steve,
> 
> Well, that's interesting. I've never noticed any kind of shrinking after
> the first coat.
> Also, getting back to tips and tricks for doing the repainting, I was
> re-reading some of the info I have on the old MGM scenic department. One of
> their tricks was to lower a batten down to 8ft or so, then mount the drop
> onto it by sandwiching the muslin between two 1 X 3's. This would suppodrt
> the cloth more evenly than if you just tied it on with grommets. Then,
> they'd move a "rolling wall" behind the drop, and pushed up against it, so
> that they would have a hard surface to paint against. You could probably do
> the same thing by knocking together a couple of stock platforms.
> They would paint their way across, then raise the cloth to the next 8
> feet, and repeat. This would go on three or four times before they would
> have their 100' cycloramas done. They usually did this on any stage that was
> available. When finished, stagehands would roll the whole thing up and walk
> it like a millipede across the lot to whichever stage was in production.
> The thing I worry about more than crcaking with this repaint, is will
> the wrinkles be visible? If you had a couple days to let it set, everything
> would be fine... but if this is for a travelling show, how can you fold
> without obvious creases?
> 
> Joe
> 
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Steve Larson" <tiptd [at] theatreinthepark.com>
> To: "Stagecraft" <stagecraft [at] theatrical.net>
> Sent: Saturday, May 15, 2004 4:47 PM
> Subject: Re: repainting a muslin backdrop
> 
> 
>> For info on subscribing, unsubscribing, and suspending
>> your list subscription, go to the Stagecraft web site at:
>> http://stagecraft.theprices.net/
>> ---------------------------------------------------
>> 
>> 
>> That's true, but I've found that there is always
>> a little shrinkage up to about 5 coats.  I've
>> worked in some situations where we used them
>> till they cracked.  Low budget, you know.
>> 
>> Steve
>> 
>> on 5/15/04 4:04 PM, Joe Meils at bipolarber [at] cyberback.com wrote:
>> 
>>> For info on subscribing, unsubscribing, and suspending
>>> your list subscription, go to the Stagecraft web site at:
>>> http://stagecraft.theprices.net/
>>> ---------------------------------------------------
>>> 
>>> 
>>> 
>>>> In all likelihood, it will shrink.  Without staples, it may
>>>> shrink to the point the top and bottom edges are not parallel.
>>> 
>>> Steve,
>>> 
>>> Actually, if the drop has been pre-painted, it won't shrink much at all.
> The
>>> first painting, when it dried, acted as a sizing, and pre-shrunk the
>>> material.
>>> 
>>> Joe
>>> UCA
>>> Conway, Arkansas
>>> 
>>> 
>>> 
>> 
> 
> 
> 


------------------------------

Message-Id: <6.1.0.6.0.20040515190253.00b25018 [at] localhost>
X-Mailer: QUALCOMM Windows Eudora Version 6.1.0.6
Date: Sat, 15 May 2004 19:04:56 -0700
From: Jerry Durand <jdurand [at] interstellar.com>
Subject: What happened to USITT?

We're running low on the "join USITT" postcards so I sent a request in for 
more (using the e-mail address on the cards), but it bounced.  This isn't 
good if the address on all the cards we give out doesn't work.


>A message that you sent could not be delivered to one or more of its
>recipients. This is a permanent error. The following address(es) failed:
>
>   info [at] usitt.org
>     SMTP error from remote mailer after RCPT TO:<info [at] usitt.org>:
>     host uts.ffa.ucalgary.ca [136.159.206.9]: 530 Relayed mail to 
> info [at] usitt.org not allowed


----------
Jerry Durand
Durand Interstellar, Inc.
219 Oak Wood Way
Los Gatos, California 95032-2523  USA
tel:  +1 408 356-3886
fax:  +1 408 356-4659
web:  www.interstellar.com



------------------------------

End of Stagecraft Digest #8
***************************