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For info, archives & UNSUBSCRIBE, see <http://stagecraft.theprices.net/>
---------------------------------------------------

Stagecraft Digest, Issue #163

 1. Fake Leaves
    by "Sam Fisher" <Sam [at] FisherTheatrical.com>
 2. Re: Fake Leaves
    by "CATHERINE BRUMM" <cbrumm [at] nhcs.k12.nc.us>
 3. Re: Fake Leaves
    by doran [at] bard.edu
 4. Re: Dragon for "The Hobbit"
    by "Scott Boyle" <smboyle [at] cc.edu>
 5. Re: Dragon for "The Hobbit"
    by "Joe Meils" <bipolarber [at] cyberback.com>
 6. Re: Wireless batteries
    by Jerry Durand <jdurand [at] interstellar.com>
 7. Dimmers available + Parts
    by "John Hauer" <johnhauer [at] csus.com>
 8. ISO pyle connectors
    by "John Hauer" <johnhauer [at] csus.com>
 9. Re: Dragon for "The Hobbit"
    by "Tony Deeming" <deeming.tony [at] btinternet.com>
10. Re: Wireless batteries
    by FrankWood95 [at] aol.com
11. Re: NSI DDS9600 Dimmer
    by FrankWood95 [at] aol.com
12. Re: HMI vs Daylight
    by FrankWood95 [at] aol.com
13. Re: Wireless batteries
    by Jerry Durand <jdurand [at] interstellar.com>
14. Re: Wireless batteries
    by FrankWood95 [at] aol.com
15. Re: Wireless batteries
    by Jerry Durand <jdurand [at] interstellar.com>
16. Re: Cell phone jamming
    by Joe <joe [at] dunfee.com>
17. Reliable, low-cost wireless dimming
    by "James Smith, Soundsculpture Incorporated" <jsmith [at] theatrewireless.com>
18. Re: Reliable, low-cost wireless dimming
    by "Jason" <OneOccy [at] hotmail.com>
19. Amateur v. Professional theater
    by CB <psyd [at] cox.net>
20. Re: NSI DDS9600 Dimmer
    by CB <psyd [at] cox.net>
21. Re: NSI DDS9600 Dimmer
    by CB <psyd [at] cox.net>

*** Please update the subject line of your reply to use the subject
*** line of the message you are replying to! Please only reply to
*** one message subject in each reply.

----------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Sam Fisher" <Sam [at] FisherTheatrical.com>
Subject: Fake Leaves
Date: Thu, 14 Oct 2004 09:06:14 -0400
In-Reply-To: <list-4690626 [at] prxy.net>
Message-ID: <auto-000004692835 [at] prxy.net>

Anyone know of a good source for a bulk amount of fake autumn leaves,
preferably silk?  I have a few good options for full branches but I would
prefer single leave.

Sam Fisher




------------------------------

Message-Id: <s16e474a.061 [at] mail.nhcs.k12.nc.us>
Date: Thu, 14 Oct 2004 09:30:27 -0400
From: "CATHERINE BRUMM" <cbrumm [at] nhcs.k12.nc.us>
Subject: Re: Fake Leaves

I don't know about silk but it being the time of year it is I would
check Halloween/party stores. I did very well last spring getting
autumnal leaves for a leaf drop for into the woods from a local dollar
store. You might also try Oriental Trading Company who may have leaves
available right now because they are in season. 

Catherine K. Brumm, General Manager
Minnie Evans Arts Center
Wilmington, NC
P910-)790-2360 x821
F)910-790-2356
cbrumm [at] nhcs.k12.nc.us
www.geocities.com/nhcscbrumm/index.html

>>> Sam [at] FisherTheatrical.com 10/14/04 09:06AM >>>
For info, archives & UNSUBSCRIBE, see
<http://stagecraft.theprices.net/>
---------------------------------------------------

Anyone know of a good source for a bulk amount of fake autumn leaves,
preferably silk?  I have a few good options for full branches but I
would
prefer single leave.

Sam Fisher




------------------------------

Message-ID: <1097760642.416e7f829dd95 [at] webmail.bard.edu>
Date: Thu, 14 Oct 2004 09:30:42 -0400
From: doran [at] bard.edu
Subject: Re: Fake Leaves
References: <list-4692836 [at] prxy.net>
In-Reply-To: <list-4692836 [at] prxy.net>

Sam,

If you can't get what you want from Michael's Craft store, try Autograph 
Foliage.  Pretty expensive, but great stuff.

Good luck,
Andy C-D


Quoting Sam Fisher <Sam [at] FisherTheatrical.com>:

> For info, archives & UNSUBSCRIBE, see <http://stagecraft.theprices.net/>
> ---------------------------------------------------
> 
> Anyone know of a good source for a bulk amount of fake autumn leaves,
> preferably silk?  I have a few good options for full branches but I would
> prefer single leave.
> 
> Sam Fisher
> 
> 
> 



------------------------------

From: "Scott Boyle" <smboyle [at] cc.edu>
Subject: RE: Dragon for "The Hobbit"
Date: Thu, 14 Oct 2004 09:15:19 -0500
Organization: Carroll College
Message-ID: <000b01c4b1f8$3caf3e60$73db688c [at] cc.edu>
In-reply-to: <list-4690626 [at] prxy.net>

Hi Dave,

Did you give any thought to using the kind of dragons used for the
Chinese New Year celebrations?  You could mock up some kind of head,
possibly paper-mache (sp) or cardboard, which one kid could operate and
then drape the other kids with some kind of colorful fabric.  The head
dragon might take a little time but the body should be pretty quick and
simple.

HTH,

Scott M. Boyle
Technical Director
Department of Theatre Arts
Carroll College
262-524-7308


Dave wrote:

I am doing a community theater production of "The Hobbit" and am in need
of 
advice for making Smaug the Dragon.  I will have 3-4 youths to act as
the 
dragon.  Any ideas for a lightweight construction?  I don't have a lot
of 
time to devote to this, so something simple that could be built quickly 
would be preferable.

Any ideas???


------------------------------

Message-ID: <000901c4b1fe$d640d880$88ecbed0 [at] hppav>
From: "Joe Meils" <bipolarber [at] cyberback.com>
References: <list-4690626 [at] prxy.net>
Subject: Re: Dragon for "The Hobbit"
Date: Thu, 14 Oct 2004 10:02:33 -0500

Dear Dave,

    You might try contacting a friend of mine, Kurt Hopkins. He's connected
with a group in Colorado called IFGS, who play Dungeon and Dragons full
scale out on some private land. He's had to build several dragons over the
last few years, and would probably have some great advice on the pitfalls
you might run into. If interested, drop me a line offlist, and I'll give you
his email.

Joe
UCA Theatre
Conway, AR

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Dave Reynolds" <reynolds [at] Macalester.edu>
To: "Stagecraft" <stagecraft [at] theatrical.net>
Sent: Wednesday, October 13, 2004 8:50 AM
Subject: Dragon for "The Hobbit"


> For info, archives & UNSUBSCRIBE, see <http://stagecraft.theprices.net/>
> ---------------------------------------------------
>
> Hi folks,
>
> I am doing a community theater production of "The Hobbit" and am in need
of
> advice for making Smaug the Dragon.  I will have 3-4 youths to act as the
> dragon.  Any ideas for a lightweight construction?  I don't have a lot of
> time to devote to this, so something simple that could be built quickly
> would be preferable.
>
> Any ideas???
>
>
> Thanks!
>
>
> Dave Reynolds
> A man finds joy in giving an apt reply - and how good is a timely word!
>    --Proverbs 15:23, New International Version
>
>
>
> Dave Reynolds
> Media Services
> Macalester College
> 1600 Grand Ave.
> St. Paul, MN  55105
> voice:  (651) 696-6378
> fax:      (651) 696-6304
> reynolds [at] macalester.edu
>
> DV Cassie with lots of fonts and effects, KRON and Final Cut Pro.
>


------------------------------

Message-Id: <6.1.2.0.0.20041014085810.0306b180 [at] localhost>
Date: Thu, 14 Oct 2004 08:59:42 -0700
From: Jerry Durand <jdurand [at] interstellar.com>
Subject: RE: Wireless batteries
In-Reply-To: <000c01c4b203$c9593810$0300a8c0 [at] trinity>
References: <list-4686475 [at] prxy.net>
 <000c01c4b203$c9593810$0300a8c0 [at] trinity>

At 08:37 AM 10/14/2004, you wrote:
>I would love to have access to that manual.

Since this seems like a useful thing to have, I've posted it on our 
server.  I used a hidden file name so it's not TOO obvious that it's there.

The URL for this is:  http://interstellar.com/clients/.handbooks.pdf

I'll leave it up for at least a few days.



----------
Jerry Durand
Durand Interstellar, Inc.
219 Oak Wood Way
Los Gatos, California 95032-2523  USA
tel:  +1 408 356-3886
fax:  +1 408 356-4659
web:  www.interstellar.com
pgp:  45A2 0A52 1D56 70C2 B865 9D5C 83F2 2112 04CE 2B54



------------------------------

Message-id: <fc.000f5b5a01175ae33b9aca006c9d2d2d.1175b43 [at] csus.com>
Date: Thu, 14 Oct 2004 09:26:22 -0700
Subject: Dimmers available + Parts
From: "John Hauer" <johnhauer [at] csus.com>
References: <list-4691760 [at] prxy.net>
In-Reply-To: <list-4691760 [at] prxy.net>

Hello,
I just pulled 42 channels of EDI D-3 dimmer packs.

These are modular units every two dimmers - 3.6k per channel. 0-10volt
control. I do have a dove box for DMX>analog, but I'm thinking I'll keep
that for tricks and giggles.

I have two big racks, an older slider patch bay with 100 breakers and
other assorted parts.

When I was running these units I very much would have wanted some spares
modules. Maybe someone needs them.

It's all on my stage floor right now Near San Mateo California. Of course
it has to be moved soon,

Here's the deal, it costs me nothing to do nothing. The electrical guys
will haul it off. There is a limited time that the gear will sit here. I
may store the dimmer units with the idea of building a little road box or
something, maybe not. Those projects tends not to get finished.

If you have any interest (and hopefully are nearby) I will let you pilfer
the stash. Just send an off list email and we can work out the details.

John


------------------------------

Message-id: <fc.000f5b5a01175b6a3b9aca006c9d2d2d.1175b74 [at] csus.com>
Date: Thu, 14 Oct 2004 09:33:31 -0700
Subject: ISO pyle connectors
From: "John Hauer" <johnhauer [at] csus.com>
References: <list-4691760 [at] prxy.net>
In-Reply-To: <list-4691760 [at] prxy.net>

I could use some 37 pin multicable pyle connectors. Anyone have those
lying around?

They could be on fan-outs, cable, 12ch multies or what ever.

John


------------------------------

Message-ID: <006001c4b20f$f89bcc30$0a01a8c0 [at] Tony>
From: "Tony Deeming" <deeming.tony [at] btinternet.com>
References: <list-4690626 [at] prxy.net>
Subject: Re: Dragon for "The Hobbit"
Date: Thu, 14 Oct 2004 18:05:11 +0100

Hasn't Chris Jahn got a dragon?
Seem to recall he had one on his web site....
Yep - just checked - http://home.comcast.net/%7Exjahn/cjdesigns.html has a
link to, guess what.... "The Hobbit" with a nice thumbnail of the dragon!
The link from the thumb nail is broken, though (Note to CJ) but it could
well be a good contact if you're prepared to drive over to FLA from,
hmmmmm.... MN..... Well, my US geography isn't what it should be, but who
knows - you guys may be able to sort something if Chris still has the
beast.....

Ynot


----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Dave Reynolds" <reynolds [at] Macalester.edu>
To: "Stagecraft" <stagecraft [at] theatrical.net>
Sent: Wednesday, October 13, 2004 2:50 PM
Subject: Dragon for "The Hobbit"


> For info, archives & UNSUBSCRIBE, see <http://stagecraft.theprices.net/>
> ---------------------------------------------------
>
> Hi folks,
>
> I am doing a community theater production of "The Hobbit" and am in need
of
> advice for making Smaug the Dragon.  I will have 3-4 youths to act as the
> dragon.  Any ideas for a lightweight construction?  I don't have a lot of
> time to devote to this, so something simple that could be built quickly
> would be preferable.
>
> Any ideas???
>
>
> Thanks!
>
>
> Dave Reynolds
> A man finds joy in giving an apt reply - and how good is a timely word!
>    --Proverbs 15:23, New International Version
>
>
>
> Dave Reynolds
> Media Services
> Macalester College
> 1600 Grand Ave.
> St. Paul, MN  55105
> voice:  (651) 696-6378
> fax:      (651) 696-6304
> reynolds [at] macalester.edu
>
> DV Cassie with lots of fonts and effects, KRON and Final Cut Pro.
>
>



------------------------------

From: FrankWood95 [at] aol.com
Message-ID: <e6.5b2a15da.2ea0169a [at] aol.com>
Date: Thu, 14 Oct 2004 13:51:22 EDT
Subject: Re: Wireless batteries

In a message dated 14/10/04 00:32:39 GMT Daylight Time, 
jdurand [at] interstellar.com writes:

> For NiCd I have often just used an LM317 regulator in constant current 
>  mode, one chip, one resistor.  With current regulations banning things 
like 
>  NiCd batteries, I have to use the newer controllers like from BenchMarq (a 
>  TI company).
>  
>  Lead acid, NiCd, and NiMH can work this way.  More power to you if you are 
>  allowed to use cells with lead, nickel, or cadmium in them.

This is news to me. The battery which starts my car contains a lot of lead, 
those in my camera are Nickel-Metal Hydride cells. These last seem to have 
superceded NiCd, and Cadmium is a very toxic element. Mind, I don't know what the 
metal hydride is. 
>  
>  >There were specialist cells around. Some had temperature sensors, some
>  >pressure. All needed specialised chargers, to detect overcharge problems
>   
>  The idea of the new "smart" packs is they DON'T need specialized charges, 
>  beyond being able to talk to smart battery packs.  The pack knows 
>  everything about how to charge itself and tells the charger what to 
>  do.  The biggest problem right now is getting a common connector.

It sounds to me as though the "smart" packs have simply fitted the specialist 
bit into the pack, or most of it. As you say, small microprocessors are now 
cheap, and suitable 'state-of-charge' sensors can be devised. Provided that the 
current supplier can be told to stop charging, this should work.

But, this implies a control connection to it. Here's where the connector 
problem begins. Most domestic gear uses co-axial connectors of various sizes. If 
you need a third connection, this is out. Sometimes, also, these connectors 
need to carry substantial currents. For larger gear, these can be really large. A 
film camera can take 8A on start-up: a car 400A.




Frank Wood

------------------------------

From: FrankWood95 [at] aol.com
Message-ID: <8a.177ce173.2ea0176e [at] aol.com>
Date: Thu, 14 Oct 2004 13:54:54 EDT
Subject: Re: NSI DDS9600 Dimmer

In a message dated 14/10/04 01:16:25 GMT Daylight Time, 
jonathand01 [at] sbcglobal.net writes:

> The problem that I am having now with two differect NSI dimmers DDS9600 ( 
>  they replaced the first unit already) is that I am running with DMX 
control 
>  and the dimmer will shut off all my lights for approx. one second. This 
>  action is very random and it is driving me crazy! 

First question, is the DMX line properly connected and terminated? Improper 
termination can lead to all sorts of funnies.


Frank Wood

------------------------------

From: FrankWood95 [at] aol.com
Message-ID: <7a.637318d3.2ea018ac [at] aol.com>
Date: Thu, 14 Oct 2004 14:00:12 EDT
Subject: Re: HMI vs Daylight

In a message dated 14/10/04 06:09:04 GMT Daylight Time, psyd [at] cox.net writes:

>  >I'm a little worried to open this can of worms but... Frank exactly what
>  criteria are you using as
>  >the basis for this conclusion?
>  
>  Ever seen the 'daylight' they have over there?

Indifferent, at the moment! But, at least it has a continuous spectrum. 
Discharge lights have peaks and troughs.



Frank Wood

------------------------------

Message-Id: <6.1.2.0.0.20041014105500.03050038 [at] localhost>
Date: Thu, 14 Oct 2004 11:10:48 -0700
From: Jerry Durand <jdurand [at] interstellar.com>
Subject: Re: Wireless batteries
In-Reply-To: <list-4694787 [at] prxy.net>
References: <list-4694787 [at] prxy.net>

At 10:51 AM 10/14/2004, you wrote:
>This is news to me. The battery which starts my car contains a lot of lead,
>those in my camera are Nickel-Metal Hydride cells. These last seem to have
>superceded NiCd, and Cadmium is a very toxic element. Mind, I don't know 
>what the
>metal hydride is.

The lead issue is odd at best.  In the electronics industry we're being 
forced to go to "no detectable trace of lead", can't even use a soldering 
iron tip that's ever been used with tin/lead solder (I think the UK 
deadline for this is in about a year).  However, huge lead-acid batteries 
in cars are ok as well as the pound or so of lead in a picture tube (leaded 
glass).

Sorry about putting nickel in there, THAT's ok...so far.

>It sounds to me as though the "smart" packs have simply fitted the specialist
>bit into the pack, or most of it. As you say, small microprocessors are now
>cheap, and suitable 'state-of-charge' sensors can be devised. Provided 
>that the
>current supplier can be told to stop charging, this should work.

The charger is given a time/current/voltage/temperature profile by the 
battery pack and can shut off or change charge levels on various 
combinations of things.  A typical profile would look like:
1.  Test for reversed, shorted, or missing battery.  Indicate any errors 
and abort charge.
2.  Test for temperature in valid range for charging.  If not, go to light 
trickle until temp ok.
3.  Test for overly dead battery, if very dead, go to light trickle until 
voltage ok.
4.  Go to full charge (constant voltage or constant current depending on 
battery), monitor voltage, current, temperature, time.
5.  If battery voltage starts to decline or temp hits max, switch to 
finishing charge.
6.  If finishing charge time is done, indicate charged and shut down.
7.  If overall timer runs out before battery charged, abort and indicate error.

>But, this implies a control connection to it. Here's where the connector
>problem begins. Most domestic gear uses co-axial connectors of various 
>sizes. If
>you need a third connection, this is out. Sometimes, also, these connectors
>need to carry substantial currents. For larger gear, these can be really 
>large. A
>film camera can take 8A on start-up: a car 400A.


Yes, there's work on making standardized connectors.  Also, battery 
companies are starting to put manufacturer IDs and serial numbers in the 
battery packs.  If you didn't by it from an approved source, the charger 
won't charge it and the equipment won't power up.  This comes from the 
large number of liability lawsuits (those again) from cheap after-market 
cell phone and computer batteries exploding and causing injury.


----------
Jerry Durand
Durand Interstellar, Inc.
219 Oak Wood Way
Los Gatos, California 95032-2523  USA
tel:  +1 408 356-3886
fax:  +1 408 356-4659
web:  www.interstellar.com
pgp:  45A2 0A52 1D56 70C2 B865 9D5C 83F2 2112 04CE 2B54



------------------------------

From: FrankWood95 [at] aol.com
Message-ID: <da.1640f452.2ea04c03 [at] aol.com>
Date: Thu, 14 Oct 2004 17:39:15 EDT
Subject: Re: Wireless batteries

In a message dated 14/10/04 19:12:13 GMT Daylight Time, 
jdurand [at] interstellar.com writes:

> The lead issue is odd at best.  In the electronics industry we're being 
>  forced to go to "no detectable trace of lead", can't even use a soldering 
>  iron tip that's ever been used with tin/lead solder (I think the UK 
>  deadline for this is in about a year).  However, huge lead-acid batteries 
>  in cars are ok as well as the pound or so of lead in a picture tube 
(leaded 
>  glass).

Information about this would be appreciated. I mean, what the devil else can 
you use for a low temperature solder? Bismuth and Antimony come to mind, but I 
know nothing of their properties, physical or chemical, except that Antimony 
is rather brittle.


Frank Wood

------------------------------

Message-Id: <6.1.2.0.0.20041014145058.00b15e90 [at] localhost>
Date: Thu, 14 Oct 2004 14:53:03 -0700
From: Jerry Durand <jdurand [at] interstellar.com>
Subject: Re: Wireless batteries
In-Reply-To: <list-4696589 [at] prxy.net>
References: <list-4696589 [at] prxy.net>

At 02:39 PM 10/14/2004, you wrote:
>Information about this would be appreciated. I mean, what the devil else can
>you use for a low temperature solder? Bismuth and Antimony come to mind, 
>but I
>know nothing of their properties, physical or chemical, except that Antimony
>is rather brittle.


tin/silver/copper mix instead of tin/lead.

Expensive, requires more heat (THAT causes all sorts of problems and uses a 
lot more energy) and often the chemicals used for flux and cleaning are 
harder on the environment than the lead.



----------
Jerry Durand
Durand Interstellar, Inc.
219 Oak Wood Way
Los Gatos, California 95032-2523  USA
tel:  +1 408 356-3886
fax:  +1 408 356-4659
web:  www.interstellar.com
pgp:  45A2 0A52 1D56 70C2 B865 9D5C 83F2 2112 04CE 2B54



------------------------------

Message-Id: <1.5.4.32.20041014233826.016dce84 [at] pop.paonline.com>
Date: Thu, 14 Oct 2004 19:38:26 -0400
From: Joe <joe [at] dunfee.com>
Subject: Re: Cell phone jamming

  Since I work in an area where the Cell Phone does not reach, I did a quick
search for solutions. The solution is either a "Repeater Antenna" or
"Amplifier". 

  As for jamming,  If a building were deliberately built to block Cell Phone
signals (or perhaps retro-fitted with some sort of metalized wall paper that
was grounded?).  With the signal blocked, it would be possible to use a
repeater to enable/disable cell phone reception with a simple on-off switch.
Thus, you are not jamming a signal, but enabling it when it is appropriate.

   It may also be viable to route some antennas from the repeaters to
specific rooms where you always want reception to be available. Perhaps in
this sort of configuration, you only need one repeater and to turn off
reception to the audience just disconnect that particular interior antenna.

   The costs for the kinds of repeaters that can handle most of the various
types of Cell carriers are around $800.  Here are some links to products I
saw.  I should add that I am not really that familiar with this technology,
and I would certainly recommend consulting with an expert to install such a
system.  I have no experience with the companies below... just found them on
a "Google".;

http://www.cellantenna.com/
http://www.mobilecomms-technology.com/contractors/inbuilding/shyam/

Joe Dunfee  joe [at] dunfee.com
Gordonville, Pennsylvania, U.S.A.


------------------------------

From: "James Smith, Soundsculpture Incorporated" <jsmith [at] theatrewireless.com>
Subject: Reliable, low-cost wireless dimming
Date: Thu, 14 Oct 2004 20:05:30 -0400
Message-Id: <20041015000532.DMJN18655.tomts5-srv.bellnexxia.net [at] p3m866>

I've been developing a great wireless dimming system for over a decade.  

The Soundsculpture RC4 is 4th generation, and I'm proud to say I'm the 
New Maytag -- this stuff just doesn't break down.  My shop is small, and we 
do pretty much no marketing, so overheads are low.  Prices are considerably 
less than that other wireless dimming system you might be aware of, and it's

100% North American designed and built.  RC3s and RC4s are working around 
the clock at Shaw Festival and elsewhere.  And my systems have been 
used in many Broadway shows and tours over the years with no problems at all

-- even in the middle of Manhattan!

Please have a look at www.theatrewireless.com.  There's an email link there 
for more information.

Sorry for the blatant self-promotion... but I'm a real guy and my stuff is 
worth looking at!

James David Smith
Soundsculpture Incorporated
www.theatrewireless.com

A USITT Member


P.S.  I also offer custom electronics design -- see www.jamesdavidsmith.com




------------------------------

From: "Jason" <OneOccy [at] hotmail.com>
References: <list-4697731 [at] prxy.net>
Subject: Re: Reliable, low-cost wireless dimming
Date: Thu, 14 Oct 2004 22:07:46 -0700
Message-ID: <BAY24-DAV5PizbQ2NSI0000eba3 [at] hotmail.com>

Yes they are a good thing, I have used them right out the box and worked
right. Only thing I was worried about was the manufacturing on the RC4 as it
looked like it was made in someone's garage, but it work like it was too.
The stagehands were more worried about the batteries being charged than any
thing else since it always worked; and this was a very high dollar imported
ballet is was used on.

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "James Smith, Soundsculpture Incorporated"
<jsmith [at] theatrewireless.com>
>
> I've been developing a great wireless dimming system for over a decade.
>
> The Soundsculpture RC4 is 4th generation, and I'm proud to say I'm the
> New Maytag -- this stuff just doesn't break down.  My shop is small, and
we
> do pretty much no marketing, so overheads are low.  Prices are
considerably
> less than that other wireless dimming system you might be aware of, and
it's
>
> 100% North American designed and built.  RC3s and RC4s are working around
> the clock at Shaw Festival and elsewhere.  And my systems have been
> used in many Broadway shows and tours over the years with no problems at
all
>
> -- even in the middle of Manhattan!
>
> Please have a look at www.theatrewireless.com.  There's an email link
there
> for more information.
>
> Sorry for the blatant self-promotion... but I'm a real guy and my stuff is
> worth looking at!
>
> James David Smith
> Soundsculpture Incorporated
> www.theatrewireless.com
>
> A USITT Member
>
>
> P.S.  I also offer custom electronics design -- see
www.jamesdavidsmith.com
>
>
>
>

------------------------------

Message-Id: <3.0.6.32.20041014233519.01962db8 [at] pop.west.cox.net>
Date: Thu, 14 Oct 2004 23:35:19
From: CB <psyd [at] cox.net>
Subject: Amateur v. Professional theater

>From my own personal bias working in an academic environment, I would argue
>that the most experimental/adventurous work is done in schools, where ticket
>sales aren't necessarily the main source of revenue,

Now you've gone and done it!  You've put me in the position of having to
defend rank's point of view. This won't be soon forgotten, either...

I think the situation that you are describing here is, by defenition, not
professional.  Pro's tend to be defined by the fact that they make thier
living at whatever it is that they do professionall.  As a profession.  I'm
not sure that that wouldn't make the educational setting amateur, but I'm
not sure what else it could be.  Unless, of course, you consider teh
academic environment exclusive of both amateur or professional status.
Mind you, I'm not denigrating the quality of the work done in the academic
world, I've seen some schools that I'd like to send some of my professional
colleagues to so as they could learn from the work that the students do.
				Chris "Chris" Babbie
				Location Sound
				MON AZ

Delete key training and post trimming done by appointment.  Rates
negotiable, will trade for typing lessons/ADD treatment...

------------------------------

Message-Id: <3.0.6.32.20041014234340.01962db8 [at] pop.west.cox.net>
Date: Thu, 14 Oct 2004 23:43:40
From: CB <psyd [at] cox.net>
Subject: Re: NSI DDS9600 Dimmer

>the dimmer rack is 250' from my controller 

250' of mic cable or DMX cable?

				Chris "Chris" Babbie
				Location Sound
				MON AZ

Delete key training and post trimming done by appointment.  Rates
negotiable, will trade for typing lessons/ADD treatment...

------------------------------

Message-Id: <3.0.6.32.20041014234654.01962db8 [at] pop.west.cox.net>
Date: Thu, 14 Oct 2004 23:46:54
From: CB <psyd [at] cox.net>
Subject: Re: NSI DDS9600 Dimmer

>> similar difficulties when using mic cable.  Also make sure your last pack 
>> in line is terminated.


>I had hoped that it would not 
>be necessary as the signal left the rack and continued into 6 intell. 
>lights.

He meant the last DMX user gets the terminator. If the signal goes out of
the rack to six movers, terminate the last mover.

------------------------------

End of Stagecraft Digest #163
*****************************