Return-Path: X-Processed-By: Virex 7 on prxy.net X-Real-To: stagecraftlist [at] theatrical.net Received: by prxy.net (CommuniGate Pro PIPE 4.2.6) with PIPE id 7892055; Thu, 09 Dec 2004 03:01:53 -0800 X-ListServer: CommuniGate Pro LIST 4.2.6 List-Unsubscribe: List-ID: Message-ID: From: "Stagecraft" Sender: "Stagecraft" To: "Stagecraft" Precedence: list Subject: Stagecraft Digest #222 Date: Thu, 09 Dec 2004 03:01:35 -0800 MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="ISO-8859-1" Content-Disposition: inline X-Spam-Checker-Version: SpamAssassin 3.0.1 (2004-10-22) on prxy.net X-Spam-Status: No, score=-5.2 required=5.0 tests=ALL_TRUSTED,AWL,BAYES_00 autolearn=ham version=3.0.1 X-Spam-Level: X-TFF-CGPSA-Version: 1.4f2 X-prxy-Spam-Filter: Scanned For info, archives & UNSUBSCRIBE, see --------------------------------------------------- Stagecraft Digest, Issue #222 1. Storage of StarPAR & Source 4 Lens kits by "Travis Whitaker" 2. Re: Autocad and fading line by Jason Romney 3. Re: My lzdG9waGV post in Stagecraft Digest #220 by Michael Powers 4. Re: Do I really need a hoisting license? by Michael Powers 5. Re: Does anyone have parts for Strand 2230 lekos? by "Shakespeare & Company Production Department" 6. FS (UK) Used Strand lanterns. by "Tony" 7. Re: My lzdG9waGV post in Stagecraft Digest #220 by "Nigel Worsley" 8. Re: Custom Gobos by Mark O'Brien 9. Autocad Line Fade by "Thomas Shorrock" 10. Scene Designer/Assistant Professor by Don W Guido 11. Re: Import/Export to/from vectorworks/Rosco LPS by "Kevin Linzey" 12. Re: Does anyone have parts for Strand 2230 lekos? by FrankWood95 [at] aol.com 13. Re: Autocad Line Fade by Michael Heinicke 14. Re: Custom Gobos by FrankWood95 [at] aol.com 15. Re: Custom Gobos by FrankWood95 [at] aol.com 16. Re: Import/Export to/from vectorworks/Rosco LPS by Michael Beyer 17. plexi floor by "jknipple" 18. Re: plexi floor by "Paul Schreiner" 19. Re: plexi floor by Steve Larson 20. Re: plexi floor by Chad Smith 21. Re: plexi floor by "Stephen E. Rees" 22. Re: the ethos of sound ( and light ? ) long post by John Bracewell 23. Re: Import/Export to/from vectorworks/Rosco LPS by Michael Beyer 24. Re: plexi floor by FrankWood95 [at] aol.com 25. Re: the ethos of sound ( and light ? ) long post by FrankWood95 [at] aol.com 26. new use for a common item - OT by MissWisc [at] aol.com 27. Re: plexi floor by John McKernon 28. Re: plexi floor by Steve Larson 29. Re: plexi floor by "Joe Meils" 30. La Scala / La Fenice by Tony Miller 31. Re: plexi floor by "Nimm, Christopher Kehoe" 32. Re: Autocad and fading line by Paul Toben 33. Re: computer tech support by CB 34. Re: computer tech support by Boyd Ostroff 35. Re: the ethos of sound ( and light ? ) by CB 36. Re: Autocad and fading line by Mike Brubaker 37. Re: Central Clusters by CB 38. Re: Trio 600 by "Andy Leviss" 39. Re: computer tech support by gregg hillmar 40. Claris works by Tony Miller 41. Re: plexi floor by Dale Farmer 42. Re: plexi floor by "ladesigners [at] juno.com" 43. Re: Claris works by John McKernon *** Please update the subject line of your reply to use the subject *** line of the message you are replying to! Please only reply to *** one message subject in each reply. ---------------------------------------------------------------------- Message-Id: Date: Wed, 08 Dec 2004 07:48:32 -0500 From: "Travis Whitaker" Subject: Storage of StarPAR & Source 4 Lens kits I'm looking for an inexpensive storage solution for our StarPAR and Source 4 Lens kits. Any suggestions? Travis A. Whitaker Supervisor Charlotte Performing Arts Center 378 State Street Charlotte, MI 48813 Phone:(517)541-5691 Fax: (517) 541-5625 www.CPACpresents.com ------------------------------ In-Reply-To: References: Message-Id: From: Jason Romney Subject: Re: Autocad and fading line Date: Wed, 8 Dec 2004 08:05:50 -0500 Not that I know of. You could create a bitmap image of such a line using Adobe Illustrator or something and then insert it into AutoCAD. Or you could make 3D cylindrical object that is really thin and texture it with something that fades out. It might get tricky when you try to plot it with your 2D vector drawing but it might work. Those are pretty wonky solutions, though. You might be better off trying to approach it from a different angle. Just make two lines that are angled slightly so they eventually grow together. Not quite what you're looking for but it's a similar effect. Jason Romney Sound Design Instructor North Carolina School of the Arts jason [at] cd-romney.com romneyj [at] ncarts.edu http://www.ncarts.edu/ncsaprod/designandproduction/ http://www.cd-romney.com On Dec 7, 2004, at 9:15 PM, Chris Wych wrote: > Is > there a way to make a line to be black and one end and > then fade into white? Kind of like using a pencil and > then slowly lifting it away. > ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 08 Dec 2004 08:25:11 -0500 From: Michael Powers Subject: Re: My lzdG9waGV post in Stagecraft Digest #220 In-reply-to: Cc: mfpowers [at] theater.umass.edu (Michael Powers) Message-id: <41B700B7.9060204 [at] theater.umass.edu> References: MPTecDir [at] aol.com wrote: < lzdG9waGVyIiA8Y2hvZm1hbm5AY2FwZWNvZC5lZHU+IHdyaXRlczoK ............>> Does anyone know why my message posted as garbage? It was posted from my aol address which I have sucessfully posted from before. (and no, the content was not garbage before it posted)! There, I said it first!! ;-) Michael Michael Powers, Technical Director UMass Amherst 112 FAC West Amherst, Ma. 01003 413-545-6821 Voice 413-577-0025 Fax mfpowers [at] theater.umass.edu mptecdir [at] aol.com ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 08 Dec 2004 08:49:57 -0500 From: Michael Powers Subject: Re: Do I really need a hoisting license? Cc: mfpowers [at] theater.umass.edu (Michael Powers) Message-id: <41B70685.2000808 [at] theater.umass.edu> OoooooooooKay! Let's try this again! Chris, I have never heard of this in Ma. I will check with the other facilities here on campus to see if anyone else has. On the other hand, while I was working at The Meadow Brook Theatre in Michigan, the state OSHA ( MIOSHA) did indeed have such a rule requiring anyone using a PWP (Personnel Work Platform I think that's the right acronym) to have a permit. the permit simply required a 20 minute instruction session and a 5 minutes test which could be administrated and graded on site by any supervisor who already held the permit. Even though the actual laminated permit took several weeks to arrive, a copy of the passed test on file was acceptable in the interim. When I first arrived there my knee jerk reaction was that it was unnecessary, made my work impossible, unreasonable, etc. While we were a LORT house with an IA contract, we were located on the Oakland University campus and used a lot of student labor for over hire. As new people came in, we would simply have one of us take the first 30 minutes to deal with W-2's, misc. paper work and the test. If we were in a big push, we would generally assign new people to other crews than rigging or electric until we had several together to do the test thing. In practice it was actually a very minor nuisance that we simply learned to deal with. In retrospect, I feel it was actually a pretty good idea. The test was literally at a 9th grade level at most, and anyone could pass it with just a few minutes instruction. It did spell out the basic rules and so you knew that they had all been told about out riggers, not standing on the basket rails, etc. If this is or becomes a Ma. reg. I'll simply include a lift test in the safety session we hold at the beginning of each semester. That will ensure each and every student will have their permit/liscence during their first semester of declaring a major or taking Stagecraft or taking Taking Theatre Practicum, all three of which require attending the safety session. I hope this helps in some way. Michael Michael Powers, Technical Director UMass Amherst 112 FAC West Amherst, Ma. 01003 413-545-6821 Voice 413-577-0025 Fax mfpowers [at] theater.umass.edu mptecdir [at] aol.com ------------------------------ Reply-To: From: "Shakespeare & Company Production Department" Subject: RE: Does anyone have parts for Strand 2230 lekos? Date: Wed, 8 Dec 2004 09:09:16 -0500 Message-ID: In-Reply-To: I don't know, and I doubt they still have records, but I will ask and let you know. Nathan Towne-Smith Production Manager Shakespeare & Company (413) 637-8302 x15 (office) (413) 637-4274 (fax) production [at] shakespeare.org This e-mail message is intended for the use of the named recipient. It may contain information that is confidential or privileged. If the reader is not the intended recipient and has received this communication in error, please (1.) immediately REPLY to the sender, stating "This message was received in error," and (2.) delete all copies of this message and attachments. Thank you. -----Original Message----- From: Stagecraft [mailto:stagecraft [at] theatrical.net]On Behalf Of sgraham42 [at] comcast.net Sent: Tuesday, December 07, 2004 7:08 PM To: Stagecraft Cc: production [at] shakespeare.org Subject: Re: Does anyone have parts for Strand 2230 lekos? For info, archives & UNSUBSCRIBE, see --------------------------------------------------- Do you know who they bought the stuff from? I might like to try following up on a couple of leads before pricing out whether custom fabrication would cost more than buying some source fours. Thanks. Stephen Graham Tacoma Actors Guild Tacoma, WA > > The local high school here installed a new facility about 6 or 7 years ago, > and the package was completely Strand. I had never seen any of these units > before I worked there, and didn't know their name. Now I do. The Genius > board they bought also requires a genius to use it. I think part of it was > my lack of Strand terminology at the time. I thought they got what was left > in the warehouse, so to speak. Now it appears they might have. Lowest > bidder and such. They have a bunch of dead units, but probably not any of > the parts to sell, or not enough anyway. > > Nathan Towne-Smith > Production Manager > Shakespeare & Company > (413) 637-8302 x15 (office) > (413) 637-4274 (fax) > production [at] shakespeare.org ------------------------------ Message-ID: <00b101c4dd30$2564d3b0$0800000a [at] Tony> From: "Tony" References: Subject: FS (UK) Used Strand lanterns. Date: Wed, 8 Dec 2004 14:13:49 -0000 Bit of a blatant advert, but hope you chaps don't mind, as it's all in the aid of charity. Clearing out some of the old gear at the theatre as I'm falling over a lot of old lanterns, so I've stuck the following up on Ebay. 4 x patt 263 profile 4 x patt 763 profile 2 x patt 243 fresnel 4 x patt 60 flood 2 x patt 49 flood The link to the 263's is http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&rd=1&item=3768219178&ssPageName=STRK:MESE:IT If you're interested in any of the others, go to the 'other items' page linked from there. (Obviously UK only) Cheers all. Ynot ------------------------------ Message-ID: <09dc01c4dd3b$32da41f0$0c00a8c0 [at] Nigellaptop> From: "Nigel Worsley" References:

Subject: Re: My lzdG9waGV post in Stagecraft Digest #220 Date: Wed, 8 Dec 2004 15:32:58 -0000 Michael Powers wrote: > Does anyone know why my message posted as garbage? Content-Transfer-Encoding: base64 > It was posted from my aol address Nuff said! > which I have sucessfully posted from > before. (and no, the content was not garbage before it posted)! There, I said it first!! ;-) The message was base64 coded, which works fine in individual message mode as the header tells the email software to decode it. In digest mode, all the message bodies are strung together, but the mailing list software knows nothing about base64 so does not convert it to plain text. As for why AOL didn't post it as plain text, maybe there was a hidden control character or something, which forced the use of base64. Nigel Worsley ------------------------------ In-Reply-To: References:

Message-Id: Cc: marko [at] email.arizona.edu (Mark O'Brien) From: Mark O'Brien Subject: Re: Custom Gobos Date: Wed, 8 Dec 2004 08:35:46 -0700 On Dec 7, 2004, at 7:18 PM, Joe Meils wrote: > But check to see what format you'd need to bring your > art in with... (Although I imagine jpegs are fairly universal....) > In my experience with anything engraved, cut, or milled, The file generally need to be a vector based graphic. Adobe, Corel, Acad etc. These are then made into a G-code file to operate the machine. Bitmap files (bmp, jpeg, etc.) are a PITA to convert without extra cleanup time. Mark O'Brien Opera Technical Director University of Arizona, School of Music Tucson, AZ 520/621-7025 520/591-1803 Mobile ------------------------------ Message-Id: <200412081707.iB8H7WQ11002 [at] bert.fau.edu> From: "Thomas Shorrock" Subject: Autocad Line Fade Date: Wed, 8 Dec 2004 12:07:29 -0500 In-Reply-To: It seems like alot of you use Vectorworks but hopefully someone can answer my AutoCAD question. Is there a way to make a line to be black and one end and then fade into white? Kind of like using a pencil and then slowly lifting it away. In AutoCAD world, the simple answer is no. here are a couple of options you can try: 1. Create a line with multiple segments, and then use the color picker to choose grayscale colors to complete the line. 2. Create a 3DSURF and apply a low light to the surface, a'la the way you Would light a low angle and it will fade the light out. 3. Create a JPG image of the gradient and import the file into ACAD. Use Grips to modify the image to the line thickness and length that you want Tom ------------------------------ Message-Id: <3.0.5.32.20041208121642.00a74740 [at] mailbox.cc.binghamton.edu> Date: Wed, 08 Dec 2004 12:16:42 -0500 From: Don W Guido Subject: Scene Designer/Assistant Professor SCENE DESIGNER/ASSISTANT PROFESSOR: Tenure track appointment for strong production-oriented program beginning Fall 2005. Teach Scene Design, Scene Painting, and other technically related courses. Design and supervise the execution of 4 main stage productions working with a professional technical director, scenic artist, property master, lighting designer, and costume designer. Advise and supervise student studio designers. MFA with professional and/or educational design experience required. Experience in CAD and other computer aided design techniques desired. For information about the University, Department, and this position visit web site http://theatre.binghamton.edu/search/index.html. Send letter of interest, curriculum vita, and three recent letters of recommendation to: John E. Vestal, Chairman, Department of Theatre, Binghamton University, PO Box 6000, Binghamton, NY 13902-6000. Salary: Commensurate with Experience. Application review begins March 1, 2005; final deadline April 1, 2005. Some interviews will take place through the Theatre Conference Employment Service at the 2005 USITT Conference in Toronto. Binghamton University of the State University of New York is an Affirmative Action/Equal Opportunity Employer. Women and minorities are encouraged to apply. ------------------------------ From: "Kevin Linzey" Cc: VECTORWORKS-L [at] LISTS.NEMETSCHEK.NET ('VectorWorks User Discussion List') Subject: RE: Import/Export to/from vectorworks/Rosco LPS Date: Wed, 8 Dec 2004 12:22:25 -0500 Message-ID: <001101c4dd4a$7e165e10$6800a8c0 [at] KLinzeypc> In-Reply-To: Michael sent me a sample file. It looks like LPS quotes all the strings i.e.. "8"" Fres" If you can't disable the quoting in the LPS export then you will need to use a text editor and Replace "" with ~, then replace " with an empty string, then replace ~ with ". Doing this will maintain the inch mark. Kevin ---------------------------- Kevin Linzey Nemetschek North America Integrated Products Engineer ----------------------------- > -----Original Message----- > From: VectorWorks User Discussion List > [mailto:VECTORWORKS-L [at] LISTS.NEMETSCHEK.NET] On Behalf Of Noah Price > Sent: Wednesday, December 08, 2004 11:48 AM > To: VECTORWORKS-L [at] LISTS.NEMETSCHEK.NET > Subject: Re: Import/Export to/from vectorworks/Rosco LPS > > > On Dec 7, 2004, at 1:45 PM, Michael Beyer wrote: > > > Anyhone know how to do this and have it WORK? I am > especialliy having > > trouble importing From LPS back to Spotlight. > > Michael knows, but for other's benefit Kevin Linzey is > discussing this on the Stagecraft list. > > See digest #220 at: > > > Thanks, > > Noah > ------------------------------ From: FrankWood95 [at] aol.com Message-ID: <13d.80da863.2ee8930e [at] aol.com> Date: Wed, 8 Dec 2004 12:25:34 EST Subject: Re: Does anyone have parts for Strand 2230 lekos? In a message dated 08/12/04 00:09:12 GMT Standard Time, sgraham42 [at] comcast.net writes: > > The local high school here installed a new facility about 6 or 7 years ago, > > and the package was completely Strand. I had never seen any of these > units > > before I worked there, and didn't know their name. Now I do. The Genius > > board they bought also requires a genius to use it. I think part of it > was > > my lack of Strand terminology at the time. I thought they got what was > left > > in the warehouse, so to speak. Now it appears they might have. Lowest > > bidder and such. They have a bunch of dead units, but probably not any of > > the parts to sell, or not enough anyway. They are usually reliable luminaires, apart from the lampholders. There fail with great regularity, and, as they are spot-welded onto the adjustment plate, are a pig to replace. Here's how. First remove the plate from the luminaire, and then the mirror from the plate. This involves drilling out three pop rivets. Next, drill and countersink holes for the bolts which will in future secure the lampholder. Then the fun begins. With the plate securely held in a vice, break apart the spot welds with a very sharp wood chisel. Normally, I don't approve of using tools for purposes they were not designed to fulfil, but sometimes you have to make an exception. Then, all you have to do is to fit a new lampholder, and put it all back together, crimping new spade connectors onto the lampholder tails after cutting off the soldered bit of them. It doesn't take all that long, if you have ALL the tools to hand, and all the components. The alternative is to order up a whole new plate, reflector and all. Not a very maintainable piece of design. Frank Wood ------------------------------ Message-ID: <20041208173617.83513.qmail [at] web81707.mail.yahoo.com> Date: Wed, 8 Dec 2004 09:36:17 -0800 (PST) From: Michael Heinicke Subject: Re: Autocad Line Fade In-Reply-To: > It seems like alot of you use Vectorworks but > hopefully someone can answer my AutoCAD question. > Is > there a way to make a line to be black and one end > and > then fade into white? Kind of like using a pencil > and > then slowly lifting it away. I seem to remember hearing that there is a plug-in that will allow you to do this, but I don't remember what it was or who makes it. I have seen it done though, so it is possible somehow. Mike H ------------------------------ From: FrankWood95 [at] aol.com Message-ID: Date: Wed, 8 Dec 2004 12:42:27 EST Subject: Re: Custom Gobos In a message dated 08/12/04 02:19:20 GMT Standard Time, bipolarber [at] cyberback.com writes: > You might also try an electronics store. Someplace that sells the materials > for making your own printed circuit boards... Beware!. The common mordant for PCBs is Ferric Chloride. This works controllably on copper, but is not very controllable on aluminium. It is too fast, and violent. Either way, your design should be bold, and allow for trimming with a fine file. Etching often leaves ragged edges. It is best to etch from both sides, which implies well registered artwork. If your design will stand it, cutting it out with a wood chisel and a sharp knife from offset litho printing plates may be the best way. Frank Wood ------------------------------ From: FrankWood95 [at] aol.com Message-ID: <1e4.2ff9173c.2ee89967 [at] aol.com> Date: Wed, 8 Dec 2004 12:52:39 EST Subject: Re: Custom Gobos In a message dated 08/12/04 15:38:59 GMT Standard Time, marko [at] email.arizona.edu writes: > In my experience with anything engraved, cut, or milled, The file > generally need to be a vector based graphic. Adobe, Corel, Acad etc. > These are then made into a G-code file to operate the machine. > Bitmap files (bmp, jpeg, etc.) are a PITA to convert without extra > cleanup time. For metal cutting, yes. Etching is different. It almost always uss a photo-sensitive resist. All you need is a very solid black and clear image, of the right size. BTW, don't forget HPGL. Frank Wood ------------------------------ Message-ID: <468d2282041208102155f39e46 [at] mail.gmail.com> Date: Wed, 8 Dec 2004 13:21:32 -0500 From: Michael Beyer Reply-To: Michael Beyer Subject: Re: Import/Export to/from vectorworks/Rosco LPS Cc: VECTORWORKS-L [at] lists.nemetschek.net (VectorWorks User Discussion List) In-Reply-To: References:

It worked swimingly. Thanks Kevin! On Wed, 8 Dec 2004 12:22:25 -0500, Kevin Linzey wrote: > For info, archives & UNSUBSCRIBE, see > --------------------------------------------------- > > Michael sent me a sample file. It looks like LPS quotes all the strings > i.e.. "8"" Fres" If you can't disable the quoting in the LPS export then > you will need to use a text editor and Replace "" with ~, then replace " > > > with an empty string, then replace ~ with ". Doing this will maintain the > inch mark. > > Kevin > ---------------------------- > Kevin Linzey > Nemetschek North America > Integrated Products Engineer > ----------------------------- > > > -----Original Message----- > > From: VectorWorks User Discussion List > > [mailto:VECTORWORKS-L [at] LISTS.NEMETSCHEK.NET] On Behalf Of Noah Price > > Sent: Wednesday, December 08, 2004 11:48 AM > > To: VECTORWORKS-L [at] LISTS.NEMETSCHEK.NET > > Subject: Re: Import/Export to/from vectorworks/Rosco LPS > > > > > > On Dec 7, 2004, at 1:45 PM, Michael Beyer wrote: > > > > > Anyhone know how to do this and have it WORK? I am > > especialliy having > > > trouble importing From LPS back to Spotlight. > > > > Michael knows, but for other's benefit Kevin Linzey is > > discussing this on the Stagecraft list. > > > > See digest #220 at: > > > > > > Thanks, > > > > Noah > > > > -- www.mjblightdesign.com ------------------------------ Subject: plexi floor Date: Wed, 8 Dec 2004 13:26:29 -0500 Message-ID: From: "jknipple" For our next show, the designer wants the stage floor to consist of some = 2' X 2' squares of plexi. These will be supported on the edges, but the = idea is that they won't be supported in the middle (so that we can light = them from the bottom. Anyone with any wisdom regarding how thick the = plexi needs to be to support actors and some furniture pieces (table, = chair, nothing too heavy)? I'm trying to find some tech briefs on the = subject, but am turning up empty thus far. James Knipple =A0 Technical Director REP Stage - www.howardcc.edu/repstage Student-Alumni Arts - Howard Community College=20 - www.howardcc.edu/studentarts jknipple [at] howardcc.edu 410-772-4451 ------------------------------ Subject: RE: plexi floor Date: Wed, 8 Dec 2004 13:50:55 -0500 Message-ID: <6E497ADB607656479C24E6D7BF6B505A74ADC7 [at] exchange.rmwc.edu> From: "Paul Schreiner" > For our next show, the designer wants the stage floor to=20 > consist of some 2' X 2' squares of plexi. These will be=20 > supported on the edges, but the idea is that they won't be=20 > supported in the middle (so that we can light them from the=20 > bottom.=20 I'd plan on 1" thick. A couple of years ago I built a steel and plexi 3-sided furniture piece (kinda like a tete-a-tete-a-tete) with a raised circular piece in the middle of it. That part was a 1" thick piece of plexi 18" in diameter and supported at only three 1" square points; it held up beautifully to being stood upon (and jumped off of, as well). Best part of that was that the shop we bought the plexi from cut it for us... ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 08 Dec 2004 14:14:55 -0500 Subject: Re: plexi floor From: Steve Larson Message-ID: In-Reply-To: I've used 3/4" thick circles 2' in diameter successfully. Steve on 12/8/04 1:26 PM, jknipple at jknipple [at] howardcc.edu wrote: > For info, archives & UNSUBSCRIBE, see > --------------------------------------------------- >=20 > For our next show, the designer wants the stage floor to consist of some = 2' X > 2' squares of plexi. These will be supported on the edges, but the idea i= s > that they won't be supported in the middle (so that we can light them fro= m the > bottom. Anyone with any wisdom regarding how thick the plexi needs to be = to > support actors and some furniture pieces (table, chair, nothing too heavy= )? > I'm trying to find some tech briefs on the subject, but am turning up emp= ty > thus far. >=20 > James Knipple > =A0 > Technical Director > REP Stage - www.howardcc.edu/repstage > Student-Alumni Arts - Howard Community College > - www.howardcc.edu/studentarts > jknipple [at] howardcc.edu > 410-772-4451 >=20 >=20 >=20 >=20 ------------------------------ Message-ID: <20041208192549.61869.qmail [at] web51804.mail.yahoo.com> Date: Wed, 8 Dec 2004 11:25:49 -0800 (PST) From: Chad Smith Subject: Re: plexi floor In-Reply-To: I've also used 3/4" thick as big as 4' x 4' in a haunted house where thousands of people walked over it with no problems. I've been told it also bullit proof? > I've used 3/4" thick circles 2' in diameter > successfully. __________________________________ Do you Yahoo!? Yahoo! Mail - Helps protect you from nasty viruses. http://promotions.yahoo.com/new_mail ------------------------------ Message-ID: <41B758B0.509 [at] fredonia.edu> Date: Wed, 08 Dec 2004 14:40:32 -0500 From: "Stephen E. Rees" Reply-To: Rees [at] fredonia.edu Subject: Re: plexi floor References: If you are looking for thinner material, you are probably looking at Lexan which is kind of pricey. If you can go thicker, you could probably use Plexiglas. There are several distributors in your area. Piedmont Plastics in Rockville at 301.881-7900, Total Plastics in Balt at 800.826-3165, and Commercial Plastics and Supply in Jessup at 800.255-8866. Sales reps at any of those should be able to give you some deflection info that will help you decide. Good Luck. Steve Rees, TD SUNY-Fredonia jknipple wrote: > > For our next show, the designer wants the stage floor [snip] ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 08 Dec 2004 15:53:03 -0500 From: John Bracewell Subject: Re: the ethos of sound ( and light ? ) long post Message-id: <5.2.0.9.0.20041208155256.00bcadc0 [at] ic4.ithaca.edu> > > say WEST SIDE STORY would not be considered a suitable lumen level in a > > contemporary Broadway musical for a dark night time scene today. , most > > HS > > productions today probably have more "lumens" at their disposal! > > > > Why? > >I wish I knew. The capabilities of the equipment change, fashions change, the >expectations of directors change. I now us 1KW luminaires where I would have >used 500W ones 30 years ago, and they are also more efficient. Well, one thing that seems to have changed is the tendency to use 1 kW lamps, or more likely now, 575 W lamps and use the dimmer to get an appropriate lumen level. Of course, that introduces the whole matter of amber drift. Light that is shifted toward the red end of the spectrum doesn't feel as bright as light that lies closer to the white range of the blackbody locus line. Even with filters in the instrument, the color quality is much better (to my eye, at any rate) when the filament is near max heat/light output than at a lower check. Rosenthal and others from the middle of the last century didn't use 250 W, 500 W, and 750 W lamps just because that was what was available. They used them because those lamps gave the amount of light needed at something near full intensity and gave better color rendition. That said, I think most of us would probably find those designs too dim for our eyes. That, in fact, is what happened a number of years ago when one company attempted to ressurect one of Rosenthal's designs. I think it was Plaza Suite, using Oliver Smith's scenic design and Rosenthal's lighting. (Someone correct me if my memory is faulty.) They wound up installing a lot more instruments and higher wattage lamps to bring the illumination up to current expectations. -- JLB ------------------------------ Message-ID: <468d228204120807545ea88d4 [at] mail.gmail.com> Date: Wed, 8 Dec 2004 10:54:29 -0500 From: Michael Beyer Reply-To: Michael Beyer Subject: Re: Import/Export to/from vectorworks/Rosco LPS In-Reply-To: References:

I have been talking with Russell Hodgson at the company that makes LPS, and he told me that it is ok if you contact him directly to try and work out a perfect mesh for the two porgrams import and export features. His email address is russell [at] zbluesoftware.com Let me know what you figure out. Michael ------------------------------ From: FrankWood95 [at] aol.com Message-ID: <192.34b3efc8.2ee8e0b6 [at] aol.com> Date: Wed, 8 Dec 2004 17:56:54 EST Subject: Re: plexi floor In a message dated 08/12/04 18:27:31 GMT Standard Time, jknipple [at] howardcc.edu writes: > For our next show, the designer wants the stage floor to consist of some 2' X > 2' squares of plexi. These will be supported on the edges, but the idea is > that they won't be supported in the middle (so that we can light them from > the bottom. Anyone with any wisdom regarding how thick the plexi needs to be > to support actors and some furniture pieces (table, chair, nothing too heavy)? > I'm trying to find some tech briefs on the subject, but am turning up empty > thus far. At a first guess, 1/2". But this is only a guess. Calculations need to be done, and I don't have the information. You might get away with 3/8", but I should go for the safer answer. It sounds like an expensive proposition. Maybe, just maybe, toughened glass might come out cheaper. It's more brittle, but stiffer, and probably stronger, within its limits. Frank Wood ------------------------------ From: FrankWood95 [at] aol.com Message-ID: <1f8.31ed417.2ee8e3d7 [at] aol.com> Date: Wed, 8 Dec 2004 18:10:15 EST Subject: Re: the ethos of sound ( and light ? ) long post In a message dated 08/12/04 20:54:14 GMT Standard Time, jbrace [at] lightlink.com writes: > Rosenthal and others from the middle of the last century didn't use 250 W, > 500 W, and 750 W lamps just because that was what was available. They used > them because those lamps gave the amount of light needed at something near > full intensity and gave better color rendition. That said, I think most of > us would probably find those designs too dim for our eyes. The expectations have changed, as you say. Both those of the directors and those of the audiences. That, in fact, > is what happened a number of years ago when one company attempted to > ressurect one of Rosenthal's designs. I think it was Plaza Suite, using > Oliver Smith's scenic design and Rosenthal's lighting. (Someone correct me > if my memory is faulty.) They wound up installing a lot more instruments > and higher wattage lamps to bring the illumination up to current Interestingly enough, I am planning to light "Plaza Suite" in the near future. I haven't seen any set designs yet, but my first guess is at twelve KW of key, 8KW of fill, and 4KW of back. That's just off the top of my head. I am sure that all of those will rise when I really get down to a design. I just regard them as a minimum starting point. What Rosenthal would have mede of modern lighting capabilities, I don't know. Frank Wood ------------------------------ From: MissWisc [at] aol.com Message-ID: <19c.2c3567b0.2ee8e898 [at] aol.com> Date: Wed, 8 Dec 2004 18:30:32 EST Subject: new use for a common item - OT My apologies in advance to any who may be offended/upset by the delicate subject matter, but IMHO this is so clever it should be shared with theatre folks. And yes, I know it's supposed to be "duct" tape... <> ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 08 Dec 2004 18:30:30 -0500 Subject: Re: plexi floor From: John McKernon Message-ID: In-Reply-To: > These will be supported on the edges, but the idea is that they won't be > supported in the middle (so that we can light them from the bottom. We did this for the national tour of "Chess" some years ago. As I recall we used a layer of frosted plexi (for the look) and a layer of Lexan (for strength). One big thing you need to deal with is heat from the lights. Our floor was raked so we were able to do ventilation from underneath, but all of those 40w (?) bulbs generated a lot of heat, and plastic does tend to sag/melt/burn if you're not careful about it. Paint the inside of each "light box" white and make a full-size sample of one section of the floor and see how it looks and holds up to both heat and traffic before committing to the idea. Of course, you could use LED's, so heat wouldn't be an issue, but the budget might well become one...;) Good luck! - John McKernon ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 08 Dec 2004 18:41:34 -0500 Subject: Re: plexi floor From: Steve Larson Message-ID: In-Reply-To: My first consideration is safety to the actor. A hot instrument under the plexi will heat it enough to make it a bit flexible. I'm currently using a small piece of 1/2" for an up-light on Marley's ghost in his first appearance behind a mirror. The actor doesn't stand on it, but next to it. We've got a S4 with a moving light under the plexi. I noticed years ago in using 3/4" that the plexi does get warm, not hot, and it does flex a bit when stepped on. Like I posted earlier, it was a 2' circle. Matter of fact, I still have the four circles. TD of the original show they were used for said trash them. I did to my garage. Used them several times since. Nice to have available. They were $40 per circle in 1975. Steve on 12/8/04 5:56 PM, FrankWood95 [at] aol.com at FrankWood95 [at] aol.com wrote: > At a first guess, 1/2". But this is only a guess. Calculations need to be > done, and I don't have the information. You might get away with 3/8", but I > should go for the safer answer. > > It sounds like an expensive proposition. Maybe, just maybe, toughened glass > might come out cheaper. It's more brittle, but stiffer, and probably stronger, > within its limits. > > > Frank Wood > > ------------------------------ Message-ID: <001f01c4dd84$6dbf6d60$70ecbed0 [at] hppav> From: "Joe Meils" References: Subject: Re: plexi floor Date: Wed, 8 Dec 2004 18:17:10 -0600 I'd have to take issue with the "Lexan is more pricey than plexi" argument. I believe you'll find that a 1" to 3/4" peice of plexi costs about the same as a 3/8" square of Lexan. If you count in the added saftey, and what you could end up paying in medical bills if someone cracked through a razor sharp pane of plexi.... well.... Oh, BTW, we tested a 3' X 3' pane of the stuff for a pit effect we were doing for a haunted house... we parked a VW on the Lexan, and it didn't break. (Although you will need some thin carpet to gasket the edges to prevent creaking.) Joe ----- Original Message ----- From: "Steve Larson" To: "Stagecraft" Sent: Wednesday, December 08, 2004 5:41 PM Subject: Re: plexi floor > For info, archives & UNSUBSCRIBE, see > --------------------------------------------------- > > My first consideration is safety to the actor. A hot > instrument under the plexi will heat it enough to make > it a bit flexible. I'm currently using a small piece > of 1/2" for an up-light on Marley's ghost in his first > appearance behind a mirror. The actor doesn't stand > on it, but next to it. We've got a S4 with a moving > light under the plexi. > > I noticed years ago in using 3/4" that the plexi does > get warm, not hot, and it does flex a bit when stepped on. > Like I posted earlier, it was a 2' circle. Matter of > fact, I still have the four circles. TD of the original > show they were used for said trash them. I did to my > garage. Used them several times since. Nice to have > available. They were $40 per circle in 1975. > > Steve > > on 12/8/04 5:56 PM, FrankWood95 [at] aol.com at FrankWood95 [at] aol.com wrote: > > > At a first guess, 1/2". But this is only a guess. Calculations need to be > > done, and I don't have the information. You might get away with 3/8", but I > > should go for the safer answer. > > > > It sounds like an expensive proposition. Maybe, just maybe, toughened glass > > might come out cheaper. It's more brittle, but stiffer, and probably stronger, > > within its limits. > > > > > > Frank Wood > > > > > ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 09 Dec 2004 00:34:17 +0000 Subject: La Scala / La Fenice From: Tony Miller Message-ID: For once some good news. Last night was the re-opening of La Scala Milan after an extensive and expensive refurb costing approx 75m USD. It reopened with a performance of Antonio Salieri's Europa Riconosciuta (Europe Revealed) - which was the opera with which the house was originally inaugurated 226 years ago. Have a look at Where they have some nice photographs of the opening night. Also this week the 18th century La Fenice theatre in Venice reopens after being burnt down by a fire caused by electrical contractors in 1996. Have a look at and Both are really beautiful theatres and have been rebuilt almost completely. It makes you think of the responsibility we are under to stay safe. Cheers Tony Miller. ------------------------------ Subject: RE: plexi floor Date: Wed, 8 Dec 2004 19:18:13 -0600 Message-ID: <51312EBFCD0B1A4789781739FE26AAE25A9970 [at] PEPSI.uwec.edu> From: "Nimm, Christopher Kehoe" Are the squares of plexi supposed to be "unsupported" in the middle for = lighting purposes only? Also, is the lighting direction going to be = straight up from beneath? If so, I'd think that a 2' X 2' square of bar = grating would be excellent for supporting any thickness of plexi. Chris -----Original Message----- From: Stagecraft [mailto:stagecraft [at] theatrical.net] On Behalf Of = jknipple Sent: Wednesday, December 08, 2004 12:26 PM To: Stagecraft Subject: plexi floor For info, archives & UNSUBSCRIBE, see --------------------------------------------------- For our next show, the designer wants the stage floor to consist of some = 2' X 2' squares of plexi. These will be supported on the edges, but the = idea is that they won't be supported in the middle (so that we can light = them from the bottom. Anyone with any wisdom regarding how thick the = plexi needs to be to support actors and some furniture pieces (table, = chair, nothing too heavy)? I'm trying to find some tech briefs on the = subject, but am turning up empty thus far. James Knipple =A0 Technical Director REP Stage - www.howardcc.edu/repstage Student-Alumni Arts - Howard Community College=20 - www.howardcc.edu/studentarts jknipple [at] howardcc.edu 410-772-4451 ------------------------------ In-Reply-To: References: Message-Id: From: Paul Toben Subject: Re: Autocad and fading line Date: Wed, 8 Dec 2004 20:29:47 -0500 I do not think there is a way to do this with a line object in AutoCAD. CAD stores information about every object you create in a database. Each entry in that database defines a different parameter of an object, (the start and end of a line in 3D space, the layer that the object is on, its line-weight, or the center and radius of a circle... just to name a few examples), so each entry applies to the entire object. You can't define the color of an object as a function of location, so unless someone can be more creative than I can be, you're out of luck. You could, of course, create an image of this effect in Photoshop and place the image in your drawing, but i don't think this is what you're going for. Or you might be able to get away with dividing the line into many small segments and assigning each segment a different color... but that would take forever. Given enough time, one might be able to write an AutoLISP script to do this. If it weren't finals here, I'd give it a go myself. It sounds like a fun project. Hope that helps... Paul On Dec 8, 2004, at 6:01 AM, Chris Wych wrote: > > It seems like alot of you use Vectorworks but > hopefully someone can answer my AutoCAD question. Is > there a way to make a line to be black and one end and > then fade into white? Kind of like using a pencil and > then slowly lifting it away. ------------------------------ Message-Id: <3.0.6.32.20041208185206.01811420 [at] pop.west.cox.net> Date: Wed, 08 Dec 2004 18:52:06 From: CB Subject: Re: computer tech support >>Linksys does well, and gives good support. They just don't speak Macintosh... > >I didn't know that, that's a shame. Neither did I. I set up a Linksys router/cable modem for my buddies Mac system and found all I needed to know here: Chris "Chris" Babbie Location Sound MON AZ Delete key training and post trimming done by appointment. Rates negotiable, will trade for typing lessons/ADD treatment... ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 8 Dec 2004 20:55:21 -0500 (EST) From: Boyd Ostroff Subject: Re: computer tech support In-Reply-To: Message-ID: References: >>> Linksys does well, and gives good support. They just don't speak > Macintosh... They work fine with Macs, have used their routers for years. True that they don't provide any tech support for the Mac and don't distribute any software, but their routers all use a web browser interface so anybody with basic tech knowledge should be able to figure it out. BTW, they were recently acquired by Cisco... | Boyd Ostroff | Director of Design and Technology | Opera Company of Philadelphia | http://tech.operaphilly.com | ostroff [at] operaphilly.com ------------------------------ Message-Id: <3.0.6.32.20041208191024.01811420 [at] pop.west.cox.net> Date: Wed, 08 Dec 2004 19:10:24 From: CB Subject: Re: the ethos of sound ( and light ? ) >I think that you are wrong about TV. This is still limited by the properties >of the display tube. a contrast ratio of about 30:1 is all that it can handle. Jeez, Frank, get out once in a while. Try to at least keep up with the consumer grade equipment. 30:1 contrast ratios went away soon after the 3:4 aspect ratio replaced the round set... LOTS of commercially available consumer viewing options will get you better than 300:1. Chris "Chris" Babbie Location Sound MON AZ Delete key training and post trimming done by appointment. Rates negotiable, will trade for typing lessons/ADD treatment... ------------------------------ Message-Id: <6.1.2.0.0.20041208210414.01cee7c8 [at] mail.insightbb.com> Date: Wed, 08 Dec 2004 21:09:40 -0500 From: Mike Brubaker Subject: Re: Autocad and fading line In-Reply-To: References:

This can *kind of* be approximated by drawing a tapered polyline. Two ways: Method one: Type "PL" at the command line. Type "W" for the width option and enter the starting and ending widths--this is your taper. Select the starting and ending points. Method two (existing line or editing the line you just drew): Type "PEDIT" at the command line (or select Modify-->Object-->Polyline). Select "Edit Vertex". Choose Width. This may or may not achieve what you are looking for. Mike >On Dec 8, 2004, at 6:01 AM, Chris Wych wrote: >> >>It seems like alot of you use Vectorworks but >>hopefully someone can answer my AutoCAD question. Is >>there a way to make a line to be black and one end and >>then fade into white? Kind of like using a pencil and >>then slowly lifting it away. ------------------------------ Message-Id: <3.0.6.32.20041208194123.01811420 [at] pop.west.cox.net> Date: Wed, 08 Dec 2004 19:41:23 From: CB Subject: Re: Central Clusters >Though I've not seen the technics behind the system, could this be the same >technology employed by the newer Bose DVD stuff - claims made are for >surround sound with only 2 speakers, IIRC..... Naw, Dr. Bose is just re-packaging his 'direct-reflect' marketing scheme. There are still numerous speakers, they just live in two boxes. The other technology is used in a number of apps; adio 'spotlight' (rifle, laser, whatever) locating sound sources where speakers can't live, seperate sound environments in the same acoustic environment, etc. They do this by sending two ultrasound signals (which can't be 'heard' by most humans, and travel in a fairly straight line) to where they want the sound to be heard. By modulating one, the 'beat frequency' is sub-ultrasonic (Ultra-subsonic? Sonic?) and appears to come from thin air. Aiming these at a sonically reflective surface, the surface seems to be the origin of the sound. Bose just takes the roundabout way to get the sound bouncing off the back wall at you. No highs, no lows, must be Bose. Chris "Chris" Babbie Location Sound MON AZ Delete key training and post trimming done by appointment. Rates negotiable, will trade for typing lessons/ADD treatment... ------------------------------ From: "Andy Leviss" Subject: RE: Trio 600 Date: Wed, 8 Dec 2004 21:46:36 -0500 Organization: Duck's Echo Sound Message-ID: <003201c4dd99$4dd13eb0$a19afea9 [at] AndyLeviss> In-Reply-To: Kenneth Holyoak wrote: > They just agreed to send me a 650 which just came out and has the 600 > bugs all worked out. Danger, Will Robinson! The 650 may have fixed the 600's bugs, but it's got tons of it's own. Don't plan on being able to do a straight transfer of your data and programs over if you've got a lot of stuff on the 600; the non-volatile memory system in the 650 allocates memory in larger chunks, so it won't fit. PalmOne has acknowleged the problem, is working on a fix, and is now offering a free 128-mb SD card to 650 owners to make things semi-workable, if not convenient, until they have a better fix. I've heard of a few other big bugs, too, but most of those are more specifically related to the program DateBk5, or at least brought to light by it (the user list for which is where I get all the early-adopter reports on every new device that comes out, since my geek factor typically pales in comparison to the average poster there!). While PalmOne's a bit slow to fix things, I can say that CESD, the gentleman behind DB5, is great at fixing things and finding fast workaround PalmOne's screw-ups! --Andy Leviss Sound Engineer (and Snow Machine Tech, Tour Librarian, and General Solder Jockey) Sesame Street Live: Elmo's Coloring Book This week: Fairfax, VA Next week: Louisville, KY, then home for two weeks! ------------------------------ In-Reply-To: References:

Message-Id: <6D2E77CE-4990-11D9-A09E-000A95D99210 [at] hillmardesign.com> From: gregg hillmar Subject: Re: computer tech support Date: Wed, 8 Dec 2004 22:14:24 -0500 On Dec 8, 2004, at 8:55 PM, Boyd Ostroff wrote: > For info, archives & UNSUBSCRIBE, see > > --------------------------------------------------- > >>>> Linksys does well, and gives good support. They just don't speak >> Macintosh... > > They work fine with Macs, have used their routers for years. True that > they don't provide any tech support for the Mac and don't distribute > any software, but their routers all use a web browser interface so > anybody with basic tech knowledge should be able to figure it out. > They do work fine- until you want to use Appletalk. I'm still using several old Laserwriters in my network, and Linksys will not communicate Appletalk to them wirelessly. So much for printing from my old Pismo... g. _____________________ gregg hillmar scenic & lighting design portfolio & life as we know it: http://www.hillmardesign.com "Work like you don't need the money. Love like you've never been hurt. Dance like no one's watching." Satchel Paige ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 09 Dec 2004 04:02:07 +0000 Subject: Claris works From: Tony Miller Message-ID: I have a load of old invoices written in Claris Works in system 8 and 9, does anyone have any idea how they can be read in the proper format in system X on a Mac. Cheers, Tony Miller ------------------------------ Message-ID: <41B75A3E.942B3ABE [at] cybercom.net> Date: Wed, 08 Dec 2004 14:47:10 -0500 From: Dale Farmer Subject: Re: plexi floor References: jknipple wrote: > For info, archives & UNSUBSCRIBE, see > --------------------------------------------------- > > For our next show, the designer wants the stage floor to consist of some 2' X 2' squares of plexi. These will be supported on the edges, but the idea is that they won't be supported in the middle (so that we can light them from the bottom. Anyone with any wisdom regarding how thick the plexi needs to be to support actors and some furniture pieces (table, chair, nothing too heavy)? I'm trying to find some tech briefs on the subject, but am turning up empty thus far. > > James Knipple 3/4 inch or more, should do the trick. If you have very energetic dancing or gymnastics going on, go thicker. after you have the thing all laid down, fill in the cracks between the sheets of plexi with clear RTV silicone. It is flexible, and removable later, but strong enough to hold the sheets down through most reasonable use. The stuff will take a day or two to cure up firm, and will stink of ammonia for about a week as it finishes curing. You may want to lightly sandblast the top surface of the plexi. This will give you good traction and diffuse the light a little, also help hide the operating bits underneath from the audience. You will need to provide some strong air circulation if the lights underneath are going to be staying on for substantial amounts of time, otherwise the heat will soften and discolor the plexiglass. Perhaps piping in some LN2, it will give you a neat affect as it fills the under space with fog. ;-) --Dale ------------------------------ From: "ladesigners [at] juno.com" Date: Thu, 9 Dec 2004 04:47:41 GMT Subject: Re: plexi floor Message-Id: <20041208.204814.27150.162777 [at] webmail05.lax.untd.com> Are you sure that you weren't using Lexan rather than Plexi? /s/ Richard I've also used 3/4" thick as big as 4' x 4' in a haunted house where thousands of people walked over it with no problems. I've been told it also bullit proof? ________________________________________________________________ Juno Gift Certificates Give the gift of Internet access this holiday season. http://www.juno.com/give ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 08 Dec 2004 23:59:54 -0500 Subject: Re: Claris works From: John McKernon Message-ID: In-Reply-To: > I have a load of old invoices written in Claris Works in system 8 and 9, > does anyone have any idea how they can be read in the proper format in > system X on a Mac. ClarisWorks is now called AppleWorks, and is available from Apple for $79. It runs natively under OSX, and is terrific. - John McKernon ------------------------------ End of Stagecraft Digest #222 *****************************