Return-Path: X-Real-To: stagecraftlist [at] theatrical.net Received: by prxy.net (CommuniGate Pro PIPE 4.2.6) with PIPE id 16867460; Mon, 31 Jan 2005 03:00:56 -0800 X-ListServer: CommuniGate Pro LIST 4.2.6 List-Unsubscribe: List-ID: Message-ID: From: "Stagecraft" Sender: "Stagecraft" To: "Stagecraft" Precedence: list Subject: Stagecraft Digest #278 Date: Mon, 31 Jan 2005 03:00:49 -0800 MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="ISO-8859-1" Content-Disposition: inline X-Spam-Status: No, score=-5.5 required=5.0 tests=ALL_TRUSTED,AWL,BAYES_00 autolearn=ham version=3.0.2 X-Spam-Level: X-Spam-Checker-Version: SpamAssassin 3.0.2 (2004-11-16) on prxy.net X-TFF-CGPSA-Version: 1.4f2 X-prxy-Spam-Filter: Scanned For info, archives & UNSUBSCRIBE, see --------------------------------------------------- Stagecraft Digest, Issue #278 1. Re: Rough Cut Lumber by "Paul Guncheon" 2. Re: rough cut lumber by kim.hartshorn [at] plattsburgh.edu 3. Re: Materials forTree Bark by "Brian Jeffrey" 4. Re: Rough Cut Lumber by Joe 5. Re: Trap fun by "Laurie Swigart" 6. [OFF] Theatre-Sound ListServ by Mike Benonis 7. Re: Rough Cut Lumber - Shrinkage by "sboone [at] bgnet.bgsu.edu" 8. Re: phase converters why? by Greg Persinger *** Please update the subject line of your reply to use the subject *** line of the message you are replying to! Please only reply to *** one message subject in each reply. ---------------------------------------------------------------------- Message-ID: <001c01c506dc$eb09b1a0$0202a8c0 [at] MyLastPC> From: "Paul Guncheon" References: Subject: Re: Rough Cut Lumber Date: Sun, 30 Jan 2005 05:03:53 -1000 <> Sounds like you are overskinning a plywood covered wagon with green wood... yes? Have you tried to get dry rough cut? I wouldn't worry too much about shrinkage which will occur mostly across the grain. Fasten the boards with as many fasteners longitudinally as you wish, no glue. If you put any fasteners across the grain from each other, the board will split when it dries. I would look at the endgrain of the boards as I'm installing them and have the grain ends point down. Boards tend to cup in the direction of the end grain and installing them thus will keep the corners of any cupping baords pointing towards the wagon. Keep your lumber flat and stickered (row of boards side by side, little sticks across them, another row of boards, etc.) when it arrives, A wet board can turn into a pretzel over night. Moisture makes wood fibres swell. Uneven swelling causes warpage and cupping. I can't see that doing what I think you're doing will present any major problems. <> Yes, I used my spell checker. Sigh... Laters, Paul "Once upon a time there was a beautiful princess," Tom began grimly. ------------------------------ Message-ID: <1107100434.41fd03128daf3 [at] webmail.plattsburgh.edu> Date: Sun, 30 Jan 2005 10:53:54 -0500 From: kim.hartshorn [at] plattsburgh.edu Subject: re: rough cut lumber References: In-Reply-To: Rough cut lumber does not mean 'green' lumber. Any sawyer whois cutting boards is going to use logs that have probably been drying for at least a few months, in order to preserve his own machine. They will be plenty dry enough to do the work you need to do with them. Farmers have been slapping siding on barns for centuries pulled right off of the sawmill. I have to interject however, if what the design calls for are visible circular saw marks, rough cut lumber from a bandsaw mill (the type of small sawmill that you find mostly nowadays) is not going to give the look, what might actually give a better 'look' might be a dry brush set on the end of a shop compass and painted saw marks. Set the radius of the shop compass at 21" to replicate the 42" blade of the classic Belden circular saw mill. A good source for the correct saw marks according to the period of the design are Eric Sloans books. Not that I am usually a fanatic on historical accuracy by any account, but if the designer is spec'ing 'rough cut' my first question would be why...and if it because of the saw marks this is more a point of design than thickness (which is more of construction point. good luck Kim Hartshorn ------------------------------ Message-ID: <003601c506e6$ba8b6730$0200a8c0 [at] DESKTOP> From: "Brian Jeffrey" References: Subject: Re: Materials forTree Bark Date: Sun, 30 Jan 2005 11:14:08 -0500 Regarding that tree bark application you might want to check out the heat activated materials FOSSHAPE and WONDERFLEX from Dazian www.dazian.com You can cut and sew the Fosshape (felt like material)..... place over chicken wire or other armature then work it with costume steamer and or hot air gun to work the shape and texture before painting etc. I'll be glad to mail you samples to experiment with and more info if interested, just email me off line. The Thermoman of Dazian Brian Jeffrey b.jeffrey [at] comcast.net ------------------------------ Message-Id: <1.5.4.32.20050130163315.015634e0 [at] pop.paonline.com> Date: Sun, 30 Jan 2005 11:33:15 -0500 From: Joe Subject: Re: Rough Cut Lumber >I know the lumber will shrink as it >dries, so I'm wondering if there are any suggestions about fastners or >construction methods, >Heather Hillhouse-Deans I am not clear on the exact structure you are building. But, here is a general suggestion. Build the basic frame from your dried framing. When you apply the rough non-dried wood, attach it using only one fixed screw, and then any additional screws are placed in slotted holes to allow for it to change size. E.g. if the rough wood is flooring, then screw in the middle through a round hole, and at each end with a slotted hole. Joe Dunfee joe [at] dunfee.com Gordonville, Pennsylvania, U.S.A. ------------------------------ Reply-To: From: "Laurie Swigart" Subject: RE: Trap fun Date: Sun, 30 Jan 2005 13:39:24 -0600 Organization: Upstage Review Theatre Company Message-ID: <003b01c50703$6d485380$0987fea9 [at] SWIGART> In-Reply-To: See http://upstagereview.org/Foreigner.html Scroll to the bottom where = this a full-stage pic. The HL staircase is where we had our trap that was operated backstage with a Genie / cherry-picker. It was put into place pre-show and makes no sound when it descends. -----Original Message----- From: Stagecraft [mailto:stagecraft [at] theatrical.net] On Behalf Of Tom = Hackman Sent: Friday, January 28, 2005 8:16 AM To: Stagecraft Subject: Trap fun For info, archives & UNSUBSCRIBE, see --------------------------------------------------- Don't let my subject fool you, I have no traps. That's where the fun = comes=20 in. We are doing The Foriegner in a month or so and I need to engineer the=20 disappearance near the end of the show (a character in a KKK robe drops = into the basement). Because of other height restrictions, the director and = scene=20 designer have settled on a 40 inch platform height. The opening location = is=20 only a few feet from the upstage side of the set. The opening is also = used=20 in Act 1 for a bit to establish its existence. I have toyed with a few=20 things but at the moment I am considering building a pneumatically = driven=20 scissor lift (I already own the pistons that I should need). Does = anybody=20 have any helpful advice in this realm? I am still open to other = suggestions. Thanks for any help and for my daily fix. I am a digester so please be=20 patient if you need more info. Tom Hackman TD Davis & Elkins College Elkins, WV=20 ------------------------------ Date: Sun, 30 Jan 2005 21:42:01 -0500 Subject: [OFF] Theatre-Sound ListServ From: Mike Benonis Message-ID: Sorry for the off-topic post, but is anyone other than myself not able to send or receive messages from the Theatre-Sound ListServ? Best regards, -Mike Benonis Senior and Sound Designer/Technician Stone Bridge High School 43100 Hay Road Ashburn, VA 20147 (703) 779-8900 ------------------------------ Date: Sun, 30 Jan 2005 21:56:30 -0500 From: "sboone [at] bgnet.bgsu.edu" Message-Id: <1107140190-22645.031.25-smmsdV2.1.2 [at] smtp.bgsu.edu> Subject: Re: Rough Cut Lumber - Shrinkage In-Reply-To: Hi Heather, So slap me if I'm saying something you already know, but, green wood will only shrink noticeably across the grain. You'll never notice any change in length. It's kind of like people. If we get fatter or thinner, we don't change height, just girth! How long does the show run for? And what's the dimension of the planks? Depending on the wood species, and the size of the growth rings, and how wet the log was to start, & etc. if you're using narrow planks down around 1x4, you may never notice the shrinkage for a short run show. As an example, pallets are often made green, from hardwoods, and they usually hold up fairly well without hardly a split. They do use screw shank nails (way strong). If your show runs a year, you're using a rapidly growing species, you're in Florida and the tree was just cut down yesterday (still very moist), and you are up in the 1x12 realm, you'll definitely have a splitting problem. On average, a 1x12 securely nailed down will usually split into two or three pieces over a couple of years. Much sooner if left out in the weather. If it's nailed, it will also pull the nails out a little, resulting in a really squeaky floor. If you're using 2x planks, they are strong enough to really pull nails out over a couple of years. So, using cabinet screws or screw shank nails would be good. One way to deal with the splitting in wide stock is if you fasten it with four fasteners across, then the splits will run their course, but nothing will come too loose. Also, contrary to what you might think, the splits will usually form first as checks at the ends of the planks, and then run along the board. If the fasteners are held back from the end, the splits actually don't occur at the fastener holes. But, if the rustic look is desirable, maybe splits are not an issue??? If you've got lots of heart wood, or if the wood is knotty fast growth, and is from trees with lots of twists (where the tree was looking for light, or damaged by wind or lightning), twisting and warping will be your _biggest_ problem by far. How's the lumber going to be sawn? I would guess it's gonna be flat sawn in something like a band saw mill?? If you can avoid the heart wood, you'll stay away from the worst of the twisting problems. And, if you lay the planks with the cup side down, as the board shrinks (and cups more) the center of the plank will try to rise (more controllable by the fasteners) rather than the edges lifting up (which is much harder to deal with, since you can't really put a screw out at the edge of a board). Also, if you use construction adhesive along with your fasteners you'll cut down on the squeaks. Another trick is to run strips of gaff tape across the joists or, if you're using a sub floor system, wherever you attach the planks. The tape lets the planking quietly slip a little, instead of creaking and groaning when you walk on it. In general, like Curt Mortimore said, a strong frame and secure fastening system will make up for for lots of warping problems. Umm, since you're talking about a small wagon, another idea is to rip up some T111 siding (pronounced Tee-one-eleven). It's a plywood product that comes in 4x8 sheets. It has a rough surface. It looks like planks (sort of) separated by wide rabbets that run the length of the sheet. It's usually really cheap. I think it's only 3/8" or 1/2" think. Maybe you could double it up or something to look more like real planks? Hope this helps, sorry for the long post, Steve Boone TD/LD + whatever else Bowling Green State Univ. ------------------------------ Date: Sun, 30 Jan 2005 23:52:11 -0600 Subject: Re: phase converters why? From: Greg Persinger Message-ID: In-Reply-To: > Greg Persinger writes: > I know someone out there has a commercially available product that does the > same thing, I just can't remember who. >> Michael wrote: > Greg, > > Grainger, McMaster-Carr, Greybar and any commercial electrical supply store I think I need to clarify a bit. My buddy who built the phase converter/motor controller bought the phase converter off the shelf and then incorporated the phase converter into a motor controller. He did not build the phase converter himself. Sorry for the confusion. I was referring to a company that makes a commercially available CM chain hoist controller with a single phase to 3 phase converter built in for those situations where there is no three phase power available. It might be Motion Labs. Greg Persinger Vivid Illumination Greg [at] Vividillumination.com ------------------------------ End of Stagecraft Digest #278 *****************************